CanadianSpaTech

Mary...Please start your own post. 🙏

What is the part number on the new board. Do you have a link to where you bought it. If you updated the board the original schematic might be wrong. I would try moving the W15 back to J97 unless there is a reason you moved it. Below clipped from this post: https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52493-maax-spa-460-series-balboa-54301-04-snb-error/

Need to see photo of the schematic on the inside cover. Also the blue box and red box along the bottom of the circuit board they are to fuzzy in the photos to see what's up and what's down. confusing it work or not? Is the schematic on the inside cover the same as the new board? What has been updated?

https://www.hottubessentials.ca/gecko-spa-controls/tsc-19-4-button-topside-control-panel.html Located in Kelowna. Again always phone and verify they have in stock and that it is the correct topside for your system/spa pack. You may be able to find cheaper option online. 2161 Shamrock DriveWest Kelowna BC V4T 1T9Canada(This is not a retail location) info@hottubessentials.ca

The generic overlay might be sold separately. Yeah I saw that after...lol. Hot and muggy here as well. 29 feels like 37 with humidity.

@souper soaker Ok The generic Gecko replacement is a TSC 19/K 19 that replaces the Coast TSC-34. If you lift up the topside (or look up from underneath) you should see a white tag that identifies the topside. There might be 2 screws under the overlay one on each side. If you feel with your finger you can cut a little x in the overlay and remove them to do minimal damage to the overlay but if you are sure it's pooched then just peel back the overlay.

I will add that... those topsides have a higher than average fail rate.

@souper soaker how many buttons on topside? post photos Manual here: https://manualzz.com/doc/6271927/coast-spas---gecko-depot Generic replacement from Gecko part number TSC-4-10K / K4...replaces TSC -46 https://pool-spa-supplies.com/gecko-topside-panel-tsc-4-k-4-lg-rec-10-button-real-t-c-3-pmp-mspa-mp-bdltsc410k I would verify with seller by phone if they actually have it in stock before ordering and also to make 100% sure it will work with your system.

Yes... start your own post please

Are there any vents on the front panel? Was the outside weather hot when this happened. A pump or 2 running for an hour in that confined space needs fresh air to breath/cool.

http://www.geckoalliance.com/Documents/9919-100665.pdf https://www.geckodepot.com/fichiers/documentsproduits/gda/en/qsc_xm_en.pdf

When the pump is running on low speed the check valve is closed so that the system will suck water mainly through the filters so you get good filtration. When you kick the pump into high speed it will suck open the check valve to feed the pump the extra water it needs. If the spa has a blower and the check valve is part of that system then the check valve will work opposite and prevent water from backtracking into the blower. Cut out all the rigid pieces including the check valve from soft plumbing to soft plumbing and rebuild it all this time try and leave 4-6" in between the check valve and the T fitting so if you ever need to replace the check valve again you don't have to replace the T fitting.

Intermittent error codes can be a bugger to diagnose so easy on the tech. There is most likely a flow issue causing the error. Suggest you run the spa a few days without the filters in. Remove them from the equation...even new ones. If the error comes back then you can re install them. There could be a one way check valve in the 2" plumbing that is not working correctly. There might be a spring loaded flapper at the bottom of the filter basket housing below where the filters thread in. It should open when the pump runs on high. Basically just make sure if it has one that it is still there. If they break off the spring the flapper can make it's way into the front of the pump wet end... Remove the 2" coupler from the face of the pump so you can get your finger in there and check the face of the wet end for debris or anything that could slow the flow of water... Leaves, kids toys, G-strings, scum bugs, zorbies etc. Let us know if you find a fix and help the next person.

Checked at the board or the pump end

Relays are a wear item and can fail but in most cases are repairable. I use a electronics expert although it can be done if you have the right tools and some knowledge on soldering. Remove the board first and assess if there is any damage on the back. Post photos of the back and we'll let you know what's possible if there is damage.

FYI...The D21 stayed lit after install.

UPDATE... Replaced the heater/pressure switch and all good. I guess the little circuit board in the pressure switch plays a part. When I tried to jumper the pressure switch at the circuit board it would not activate the heater

About all I can suggest is to remove tha back cover and have a look for darkened or burnt areas. These In.XE series seems to have a high fail rate of the lower voltage power supply. This usually has the boot up sequence numbers stuck in a boot loop and just keeps resetting over and over. Have not seen your issue

Let us know results please

Start by testing all fuses. Post photos of the spa pack and circuit board.

After checking the fuses pull the board and look on the back for burnt relays. Hard to see in photo but I agree with @cranbizthere looks to be burnt areas/wires.

Send it back! find the right board that fits your pack/housing. Post photo of the white sticker on the top of the grey spa pack.

Does it have a circ pump or does it heat and filter using the #1 pump on low speed?

Sorry No... I have never worked on a one. I don't think you will find many Techs that have.

Check the fuse inside... but they are also known to blow holes in the board. @RDspaguy I made up one of these for testing Jacuzzi sensors. Comes in handy