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mrwrick

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About mrwrick

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  1. Hi, my old Hot Spring Classic model F, 1989, has tripped the hi-limit breaker. It is an old 110v. model, heater works as long as jets are not on. The circulation pump seems to be cutting out after less than a minute causing the heater to heat too high, tripping the hi-limit breaker. It is not the heater reset breaker. When all cools down the hi-limit can be reset and the jets work fine. But as soon as I turn jets off I hear the recirc pump start, then, if the heater thermostat is set to turn heater on the recirc pump shortly stops and the breaker trips. The heater housing is hot at this point. What I take from this so far is that the jet pump is working, and the heater is working, but the recirc pump is likely blocked so no water is flowing through the heater assembly. While the recirc pump is running, If I put my hand in front of the recirc pump inlet from the tub, where i would normally feel strong suction, i fee little or no suction. I also feel no heat flowing from the heater outlet into the tub. The pump is about 5 yers old, a Silent-Flo E5, I believe. Is this the life of that model pump running 24/7? Would it be intermittent or just quit? Does the intermittent running indicate a blockage rather than a dead pump? Thanks for the help in solving this.
  2. mrwrick

    Hot Springs Heater Reset

    Contact Hot Spring reps for guidance about your model by serial number. Also might try to purge the heater of air. If you had open lines with the leaks it might have accumulated air which can cause heater limit to trip because it heats too high quickly, air heats faster than water.
  3. mrwrick

    ozone stop working

    try replacing the cheap little check valve in your tubing
  4. mrwrick

    Spa mainenance

    You are in the right place. Go to the Spa Water Chemistry part of the Forum and look for the Dichlor/Bleach method thread. The water chemistry members lay it out very clearly. Read alot, digest it, get the right supplies and have patience.
  5. First thing that comes to mind is to go back to Hot Spring tech support. It is their system, their part, they should be able to help, and you have already had good results with them, as have many of us through this Forum. Next, an old lesson learned when i was doing a tune-up on an old points ignition system in a car. Everything was new, but the darned thing would fire over once and back fire. When finally checking the new points I discovered they had no tungsten coating, so they were bare steel and one spark was all it took to foul them. Why do we insist on trusting the "new" part to be as advertised? Check that "new" limit switch for its temp/trip point. Pull it out and do the stove top test with a known good thermometer in a pan of increasingly hot water to see when it trips in that pure environment. If it checks out OK you have an issue with another component, maybe a relay. If not, get another "new" one, but try the stove top test first. i know it is very frustrating, went through similar thermostat problem with my older Hot Spring Classic F, a 1989 model. It was a corroded wire where I had assumed all was fine. Good hunting. Please post your process and results here for others to learn. I am sure it will happen to one or more of us with older Hot Spring units.
  6. As far as getting information on how much of what to add that is also part of the explanations in the booklet. It takes some practice to get the conversions right, but the information is all in the kit.
  7. The Taylor 4-test kit is easy to follow and the measurements are sight-read. It does not take alot of practice to get it right. And the explanations of water chemistry and balance that come with it are straight-forward, even for a non-chemist. It would also reinforce some of what he learned in the abbreviated course.
  8. mrwrick

    Water temp at 104

    If my covered spa sits in full sun half the day when ambient temp is high 90's and the spa thermostat is set low, almost off, the spa will reach mid-90s. If the thermometer sits in the sun in spa water that is in 90's it will quickly rise higher than spa temp. Don't underestimate the power of solar. That is not to say something else might be going on, like your temp setting is off, as in not accurate anymore.
  9. mrwrick

    Voltage present but no heat

    I have a 110 volt spa. My heater system showed similar result oin tests. I had a bad relay. There were 2, I replaced one, but it was the wrong one. Once i replaced the correct heater relay all works well for several years now.Good luck, Use this form and the manufacturer contacts. They all helped me.
  10. mrwrick

    Use 120v pump and heater on old tub

    I should add that if the spa was originally wired and circuited for 220 there may be some modifications of the circuitry, relays, etc., that are necessary in order for the reduced voltage pump and heater to function and to not burn out your pump or heater with the higher voltage the circuitry may draw if not modified. Do check with a professional.
  11. mrwrick

    Use 120v pump and heater on old tub

    Check with the forum here, but my opinion is that the change to 110 (120V) will simply reduce the functions of heater and jet pump to either/or. When jets are on heater will not be. Once jets are off heater will function. I have a 110 v. older spa and that is exactly what it was designed for, as opposed to the 220v. model in which both circuits function together. Unless you cannot enjoy a spa as temperature slowly drops when jets are on you will find it is fully functional in both cycles, either/or.
  12. mrwrick

    Chlorine or bromine

    Pay particular attention to the pros who recommend using common household products rather than paying premiums for spa specific brand name concoctions that are the same as the household stuff. And order a Taylor test kit when you decide whether you will use chlorine or bromine. It is user friendly; you do not have to be a chemist to use the tests or understand the readings. I have 2 spas. Both are in California, one near the coast, one in the mountains. The weather and environments the exist in are as different as the zones where they operate. One is seldom used, sits for weeks at a time. It is the farthest from my home, up in the mountains. It has been maintained with excellent consistent balance and sanitation using bromine with an ozone generator on a circulation pump that runs 24/7. Bromine deploys into the water in tablet form over time and does not break down with heat like chlorine. Chlorine bleach is added periodically to super-sanitize the spa and recharge the bromine. I turn the heater down when I am not there, only heating it for use for a few days at a time, a couple to a few weeks between uses.The ozone is an after-market unit that I easily installed and was simple to plumb into the spa tubing after the heater. In my other spa at the coast I use chlorine in common liquid household bleach form as the sole sanitizer. This works because that spa is frequently used, so it gets maintained regularly. Since chlorine and ozone tend to interfere with each other I do not use ozone in the chlorine spa. All the information I used to decide which system to use came from the water chemistry forum, searching for threads that seemed to meet my needs and reading, rereading, then asking questions of the pros who are always very helpful. Take the time to find appropriate threads for your questions and to understand them. It pays off to get your spa set up right once with good advice, not from the stores or sales people, but from the forum experts.
  13. mrwrick

    Chlorine or bromine

    Forums are great for all information you need. Go to Hot Tub Water Chemistry in the main menu and look through the posts first. You will probably find your answers from another Q&A thread. There are several water chemists who give very well researched information based on their years of industry experience and expertise. Follow them. Chem Geek is one name that pops up in my mind. You will likely learn quickly that chlorine is the best sanitizer with bromine close second. Ozone is another supplemental sanitizing system; it works well with bromine, has some negatives with chlorine. Each product will have some additives suggested. Again, look through and read the threads previously posted in water chemistry section. It will work out well for you.
  14. First, see if you can enlist the Hot Springs tech support crew on this forum. They are very helpful. Be prepared to give them your serial no. It may dictate some parts/sizes that are not more universal. In the meantime, what does your existing pump have? You will be connecting to same tubing, so go with what you have. As far as voltage, go with what your system runs on. My Hot Spring spa is 120v, and I replaced bad pump with the Laing E5, 3/4 inch barb to fit existing 3/4 ID tubing.
  15. mrwrick

    Ozone Question

    Updating my own post to help others. Got in touch with manufacturer about the issue. It turns out the inline check valve was probabl;y clogged after a couple years operation. Due to its low pressure rating my blow of air through it probably temporarily reset the small ball in the valve into proper position to allow the air bubbles but is likely to reclog. Should be replaced every year. Other issue was no power in NEW unit. Appeared to have a blown 1 amp fuse. Manufacturer says the NEW ozone generator was prone to failure and likely blew the fuse first time it was connected to power supply. I shall return it to seller for refund and see if my old unit works with replaced inline check valve. If not I will go for the new improved fuse-less version of the ozone generator. Hope this helps other after-market ozone system users.
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