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About mrwrick

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    Spa Savant

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  1. mrwrick

    Chlorine or bromine

    Pay particular attention to the pros who recommend using common household products rather than paying premiums for spa specific brand name concoctions that are the same as the household stuff. And order a Taylor test kit when you decide whether you will use chlorine or bromine. It is user friendly; you do not have to be a chemist to use the tests or understand the readings. I have 2 spas. Both are in California, one near the coast, one in the mountains. The weather and environments the exist in are as different as the zones where they operate. One is seldom used, sits for weeks at a time. It is the farthest from my home, up in the mountains. It has been maintained with excellent consistent balance and sanitation using bromine with an ozone generator on a circulation pump that runs 24/7. Bromine deploys into the water in tablet form over time and does not break down with heat like chlorine. Chlorine bleach is added periodically to super-sanitize the spa and recharge the bromine. I turn the heater down when I am not there, only heating it for use for a few days at a time, a couple to a few weeks between uses.The ozone is an after-market unit that I easily installed and was simple to plumb into the spa tubing after the heater. In my other spa at the coast I use chlorine in common liquid household bleach form as the sole sanitizer. This works because that spa is frequently used, so it gets maintained regularly. Since chlorine and ozone tend to interfere with each other I do not use ozone in the chlorine spa. All the information I used to decide which system to use came from the water chemistry forum, searching for threads that seemed to meet my needs and reading, rereading, then asking questions of the pros who are always very helpful. Take the time to find appropriate threads for your questions and to understand them. It pays off to get your spa set up right once with good advice, not from the stores or sales people, but from the forum experts.
  2. mrwrick

    Chlorine or bromine

    Forums are great for all information you need. Go to Hot Tub Water Chemistry in the main menu and look through the posts first. You will probably find your answers from another Q&A thread. There are several water chemists who give very well researched information based on their years of industry experience and expertise. Follow them. Chem Geek is one name that pops up in my mind. You will likely learn quickly that chlorine is the best sanitizer with bromine close second. Ozone is another supplemental sanitizing system; it works well with bromine, has some negatives with chlorine. Each product will have some additives suggested. Again, look through and read the threads previously posted in water chemistry section. It will work out well for you.
  3. First, see if you can enlist the Hot Springs tech support crew on this forum. They are very helpful. Be prepared to give them your serial no. It may dictate some parts/sizes that are not more universal. In the meantime, what does your existing pump have? You will be connecting to same tubing, so go with what you have. As far as voltage, go with what your system runs on. My Hot Spring spa is 120v, and I replaced bad pump with the Laing E5, 3/4 inch barb to fit existing 3/4 ID tubing.
  4. mrwrick

    Ozone Question

    Updating my own post to help others. Got in touch with manufacturer about the issue. It turns out the inline check valve was probabl;y clogged after a couple years operation. Due to its low pressure rating my blow of air through it probably temporarily reset the small ball in the valve into proper position to allow the air bubbles but is likely to reclog. Should be replaced every year. Other issue was no power in NEW unit. Appeared to have a blown 1 amp fuse. Manufacturer says the NEW ozone generator was prone to failure and likely blew the fuse first time it was connected to power supply. I shall return it to seller for refund and see if my old unit works with replaced inline check valve. If not I will go for the new improved fuse-less version of the ozone generator. Hope this helps other after-market ozone system users.
  5. mrwrick

    Ozone Question

    I have an after market ozone generator in my bromine sanitized spa. It was installed in 2016, and has worked well since. It falls within the timeframe recommended for replacement of power supply and ozone generator module. It recently stopped producing the fine stream of bubbles. When I checked the unit it appeared to have power, but still no bubbles. The heater flow was working fine, so I did not suspect any blockage in the tubing from the ozone generator through the venturi; the tubing and venturi are clear, so blockage would be visible. I removed the old ozone unit and left the spa running, heating, filtering, all as it would without an ozone system. The heater flow was normal, there were no fine bubbles coming out of the heater inlet as there was now no functioning ozone system. Before i installed the new ozone unit I blew air through the ozone tube through the small inline check-valve and the venturi injector to make sure the lines were not blocked. Large bubbles came out into the tub as expected. However, I could not get power to the new unit, so I left it out and left the system as before, no ozone, all else working fine, no bubbles, just heated water. Then the mystery occurred. The fine stream of bubbles returned, but without any ozone generator in place. I had left the short tubing from check valve to venturi in place, no other changes in the tubing, except my air test. The heater functions and heated water flows through the venturi into the tub, but now it looks just as it had when the ozone system was working, fine stream of very small "champagne" bubbles. Is this just the function of the venturi action drawing air through the one-way check valve into the venturi/heater tube to the outlet? Did i clear a blockage in the ozone inline check valve that allowed that valve to draw air into the venturi and produce the small bubbles even without the ozone system in place? If so, maybe my original ozone generator is working fine. Help please. thanks.
  6. mrwrick

    Redspa Rumbling Noise

    Sounds like some air cavitation. See if you can follow a procedure to purge air from lines if your manufacturer has one. Do you have any leaks around the filter area or anywhere lines are accessible to inspect? You may have a crack in an airline that is intermittently flexing and allowing air into a filter line that works its way out of the lines until it happens again. Instead of trying to get a local repairman go to the manufacturer's site for their helpline. In my experience those techs really want to help diagnose and achieve fixes for obscure problems like that.
  7. See if your controls have hi-limit reset or spa limit resets. If neither is tripped at that high temp i would get ready to replace either the thermostat or high or spa limit sensors. Check for test procedures with your spa manufacturer's tech people for all 3 first to narrow down your search. I would start with thermostat test of continuity and resistance. As for limit sensors follow the maker's guidance.
  8. mrwrick

    circulation pump

    Test power to the unit
  9. I say "no info, no money." You do not need to buy someone else's problems. He sounds like a charlatan salesman who wants to dump off something to make a quick profit. you could send over a knowledgeable spa service person to check it out.Might cost a hundred or so but could save you 3500 on a dog. Chalk it up to good buyer research. Good luck
  10. Yes, ammonia could be a problem. I am very interested to learn what the chemists on the forum think about this since chlorine and ammonia create deadly, like instantaneously fatal on inhalation, poison gas. Obviously, you won't, better not, try this scheme, even in a dish, until you learn the very real potential hazards and whether they are worth trying to solve. I expect you will be soundly denied credibility for this gambit. I use bromine with ozone and periodic chlorine shock very effectively. A shower after a soak gets rid of chlorine or bromine very nicely, by the way.
  11. mrwrick

    Metal flakes in water?

    Take a sample of the well water and a separate sample of the current green spa water to a real water chemist for testing to see what exactly is in your water. Prepare to do a flush of your water using AhhSome, drain and refill using the best source water you can. balance according to forum advice . Try to avoid whatever water caused the deposits. Good luick
  12. mrwrick

    Does it sound like everything is working?

    Go to Balboa for manuals, get your model and serial number for specific info on jets and controls and what codes mean. Get into the water forum and follow advice about testing and balancing water using common household chemicals to keep cost down versus industry products. The forum will tell you all about that. The fist indication not to follow what the spa dealer has said is that he did not address your high alkalinity. It may or may not be a problem but is certainly one of the ongoing tests and factors you must deal with for balanced water and maintaining the integrity of your whole system, motors, plumbing, etc. The forums here are the best source of all the info you will need, short of actual Balboa manuals. Good luck, enjoy.
  13. If the spa guy did not use a flush before it was drained and refilled you probably have whatever leftover gunk is in the plumbing from failure to keep clean or maintain the water by previous owner.Get some Ahh-Some, use as directed, maybe twice. You will likely see all kinds of crud come out into the water, called biofilm. Then refill and balance the water. Try a sample in a clean gallon container of your tap or other source water for the fill before you start adding things. You should be able to see if your source water is pH neutral or other, also alkalinity and hardness. Balance according to the good advice in the Forum on Spa water section. Do some research and follow the good advice of the chemists and pros. It will pay off. Maybe you also want to call the company that did the so-called service for you and ask why they did not flush before the drain. Then, on general principles if it were me, I would discontinue their antics in your backyard. They did you no service if they did not clean it out before draining. Nobody could know what was left in that water but everyone should suspect and they should know better. Hope they didn't charge you, or much. Whatever it was it does not sound like it was worth it. Again,go into the Forum section on Spa Water Chemistry and get sound advice.
  14. Go to the Forum for Pool Spa water chemistry. There are excellent water chemists available to assist with using common household chemicals to achieve all water chemistry goals. Saves money and I think they yield a more direct result than the prepared expensive industry bottles of same stuff. Good luck.
  15. This is an old topic without activity,. so I hope I resurrect it. I have a bromine spa that sits idle for weeks at a time at my vacation home with 24 hr. recirc pump that keeps my ozonator running full time. I add chlorine bleach when I arrive and after a couple uses and when I leave. I keep temp down in 80's when not there. My water is clear, TA is around 120 but pH is over 8. I assume that us because of high TA. My question is this: Since I only use chlorine in my 24/hr. ozonated bromine spa when I shock the tub do I need CYA? I have never added it since i replaced my jet pump and refilled the tub this summer. My other questions is this: Since my tub is used infrequently am I better off with a bromine and ozone sanitizing system or a salt chlorine generator and ozone system? I understand if using chlorine as primary sanitizer I need CYA. Thanks as always to the wizards of the Forum.