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About mrwrick

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    Spa Savant

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  1. Watkins classic model f no heat

    Check the relays for the heater. There may be 2, one for heater, one for jets or heater.
  2. Does this sound like the pump is dead?

    Your pump is not turning, not responding to the power that makes the hum. Looks like there are error codes in the digital readout, check on them. Maybe you can manujally free the pump shaft to allow the pump to rotate,maybe not.Check out advice from Backyard Plus site and don't fry yourself or other circuits. On my older spa I had a short-term acidic water imbalance that, coupled with a leaking shaft seal I did not address over some time, caused my pump shaft to freeze up. It sounded just like yours., hummed but no jets. I ended up replacing the $400 pump, now fine and I am on the water balance often to prevent the same.
  3. Sticky waste/ biofilm

    Ahh-some treatment, drain, rinse fill and drain, refill.
  4. This is general info to start. OPen pump compartment, drain out that green water, look in the left side for the label with serial number. Go to BackyardPlus and search around. They have good tech help and parts. Stay with this Forum, great help here too. Ask for the Hot SpringTech Support crew. Go to YouTube and look for segments on dealing with a stuck pump motor. You may be able to free it or may need to replace it. Other things to check are heater, circulation pump, filters (replace). When running plan to get AhhSome and fill and treat the tub then drain and refill. My 2 Classic F's are still running well. The simplicity of design is a plus. They are well made, as being over 25 years old shows. I had to replace circulation pumps, heaters, thermostats, relays, jet pump on one, alot of fiddling, but relatively simple once you get used to the cramped quarters and how things go in first and sequentially. Be careful with the sensor tubing, it is fragile and costly if you pinch one. Have fun.
  5. Hot Tub losing water

    Sounds like normal evaporation at that usage in that temperature environment. Maybe the pros have other answers, but if I add 1 inch a week i am happy.
  6. Bromine or chlorine for hot tub?

    Go back to the forums in the Hot Tub Water Chemistry section and check on the topics. You will likely find one that fits your questions. For me, with a vacation spa, I use the bromine method set forth in that forum. I also installed an ozonator that runs on my 24-7 circulation pump, so water has stayed clear and clean for weeks at a time. Regular monitoring is still necessary to assure good total alkalinity and pH. The DelOzone system I use has a test unit that is installed into the ozone line to show whether ozone is being produced. The test is recommended after the system has been in use for months to a year or so, depending on extent of use. I am probably overdue since my system runs 24/7 and has been in operation for a little over one year. The other factor is bather use. Mine is used by my wife and I, sans suits, infrequently due to our schedules to get there, often going 3 weeks between visits/uses. So we pollute our water very little, always showering first, not using lotions after shower, even sunscreen. If your vacation property and spa are used by strangers you will have other demands/needs. Chlorine is the best sanitizer but requires more upkeep/replenishment, but less compatible than bromine with ozone. Go to the water chem forum and spent an hour reading. You will find some very willing chemists and spa professionals who will guide you.
  7. New circulation pump, now hot tub won't heat

    Heater relay?
  8. Automatic chlorine dispenser

    I have a spa that I am away from for 1 or more weeks regularly. Bather load is also light when we are there using it, 2 people for a half hour maybe twice a day. We shower before, we do not use suits and try not to use any sunscreen or lotions on hands or bodies when we go in to reduce bather waste. I have an ozonator and use the bromine floater. The combination work very well to keep my water clear and clean during absences. I make sure to monitor total alkalinity and pH and use chlorine to regenerate the bromine when we arrive and after uses. When I leave I add 3 bromine tablets to the floater, set low. Good soaking and cleaning of filters is regularly done also. I keep an extra set of filters available.
  9. I bought a new cover for my Hot Spring ClaSSIC FROM THE FActory a couple years ago. They have a 3 year warranty. I am about to contact them to see about replacement. The issue is the top of the vinyl cover has small curls, splits in the vinyl, about 1/2 inch in diameter, all over the area about 12 inches from the edge in toward the field of the cover. This is so odd and so consistent, that it looks to me like a defect in material. It appeared after the wet California winter, not after hot weather, not after much, if any, freezing or snow. I have consistently cleaned the surface with water soluble Green-type cleaner and water and applied a vinyl conditioner. Any ideas what this is? Thanks, I thought I would get a handle on it from the trusted Forum before I try the warranty dept.
  10. I am working on my 1993 Hot Spring ClaSSIC Jet pump, a Wavemaster 7000, version 1 (from whaT I CAN TELL). The motor shaft seized so I have bit the bullet and replaced the motor with an exact replacement by Century Pumps. Now, working on the wet end before I reassemble it all in the spa, here is what else I have done. I have replaced the shaft seal with the spring seal and cup and the ceramic seal that faces up to it in the diffuser. These were exact replacements for the old parts. It was obvious that a previous attempt at sealing the motor from wet end did not include seal replacement, only a glob ring of silicone squeezed around the shaft at the seal. Bogus DIY, not by me. I have also replaced O-rings as follows: 1. on the Volute cover, the largest one; 2. the one in the square plate that bolts to the volute and threads onto the 2 inch out-flow pipe. Now, 3. I want to make sure I have the correct O-ring for the Diffuser. I have ordered an O-ring from a Hot Spring parts supplier and was sent no. 70409 listed for the WM 7000, v.1. So far so good, diameter seems to fit well into the groove, I stretched it slightly over the body to get it into the groove, except it seems a bit thin as the thickness of the ring does not fill the groove. Is this the correct part no. and fit for this o-ring? Curiously, I have also been sent an o-ring for a Sta-Rite pump that was also listed for my serial no. of Classic. I know I specified the Wavemaster 7000. No idea why I got a Sta-rite part that is clearly a smaller diameter and not for my pump. Next, the diffuser has an inner part with spiral vanes and an outer part. The vanes line up with marks inside the outer cover. There appear to be small spots where there might have been nubs and corresponding small holes that look like the two parts used to fit together to stay in alignment.Now the parts are free to revolve independently. It does not look right. Do I need a new diffuser? Last, I ordered a washer called a water slinger to replace one that came out of the old pump on the motor shaft. The old was a stiff plastic, a little concave and fit onto the shaft. This new one is soft rubber or nylon and flat and does not seem to be the right diameter to fit on the shaft without a bit of a stretch. The new motor has a seal on the shaft about the same size. Is this a duplicate of what the new motor already has in place? Thanks to the Forum for all the reliable advice I have received and made use of over the course of rebuilding and maintaining my 2 old spas. The 1989 is humming along and this 1993 is close to perfect. I especially thank the Hot Spring Tech crew and look forward to their specific advice on these questions.
  11. Drain valve help needed

    Thanks Jersey, No, I had ordered one of those, and if I had to hook up a draIN hose it might not haver cleared the tub opening without kinking. Instead i also ordered a replacement valve assembly, hoping I would not have to cut the shell to access the old and replace with the new. The replacement drain valve has a red wheel handle as opposed to the black full cover handle on the original. Otherwise the guts are the same. So, I removed the old block and shaft from the old after unthreading the collar nut and replaced it with the guts of the new valve. It leaves me with a fully functional drain same as the original, and a new drain body I will not likely need. Too bad the parts store doesn't sell just the shaft and block, like a sink drain. Thanks for your help.
  12. My 1993 Hot Spring ClaSSIC drain valve turns but does not open or close. It must have partially opened, because there was a small drip from the spigot. I do not see the cap rise or fall when it is turned. The shaft is OK, the slots on top to fit to cap are OK. There is a large nut shape at base of shaft. If I turn this will the valve stem come out? Is there a replaceable part in there? I siphoned my tub dry with a hose. But due to the possibility that the valve is just open enough to drip I do not want to refill before I resolve this issue. Thanks Forum, as always.
  13. Hi, I have a 93 Hot Spring Classic. Went through all the heater tests you have done, then finally found 2 other things: I pinched the exposed capillary tube for the new thermostat when juggling the control box and after replacing the new thermostat with another new one I found I had a bad heater relay and had replaced it with the wrong one. Alot of missteps but eventually got it going. I know the Soveriegn model is different from the Classsic, but the voltage is similar and I bet the essential heater/jet circuitry is also. Mine is set up for 110, so it will either heat or run jets. The relay that went bad was the one that alternates between heater and jets and I HAD REPLACED IT WITH THE HEATER-ONLY UNIT. (sorry, inadvertent caps) I had replaced the lower priced relay and of course I needed the more expensive one. So, I think you need to test more components in the heater circuit and you will likely find the problem is not the heater.
  14. BackYardPlus?

    Still there.i just got a tech reply by email.
  15. Need Wavemaster 7000 version 1 help

    Dave, another question to follow up your suggestion. I see an Aqua-Flow XP2 at 115 V, but rated at 14.4 amps on high speed. It is a good price, but I have to check my motor's amperage. I understand your idea of wiring the pump to operate at the high speed as a single speed pump, and that amperage is key. The other XP2's I see listed are for 230 V, though they are rated to draw lower amps at high speed, from 6 to 8.5. I can replace the Wavemaster 7000 version 1 for about $700. The Aqua-Flow XP2 is only $200. I understand that fitment will be the issue if AI go with the Aqua-Flow over the Wavemaster, which is set up as a direct replacement for my serial number and model of Hot Spring Classic spa. If you have other information to help me understand the different needs and options I will appreciate it. THANKS, CHAD.