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mrwrick

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About mrwrick

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  1. Hi all, my SilentFlo E5 circ pump is very nosy all of a sudden, after a drain and refill a month ago, but is moving the flow well, including ozone bubbles. Then the breaker tripped afgter running for some time, possibly hours, I did not time it. I also had the heater on to reheat. What is happening? Is it as simple as replacing the circ pump? Can it be disassembled and cleaned if there is matter hanging up the impeller? Thanks for the help.
  2. I have read through this thread and am grateful for the clarity it offers in balancing a new fill. My spa is 350 gallons. I DO use a Del Ozone MCD-50 ozone generator (operates with my 24/7 recirc pump, so I am using double check valves to restrict some of the gas, if that works. Hot Spring was reluctant, understandably, to give advice about an after market unit, not theirs). One post by Chem Geek asked if an ozone generator was being used, but after negative reply he did not discuss fuirther. I would like to know what using an ozone generator affects in the attempts to lower pH and TA. My ass
  3. I use bromine in my Hot Springs Classic spa and run a Del MCD-50 Ozone generator 24/7 with my recirculation pump. My Taylor test kit shows consistently high pH, 8 plus. TA is also over 100. I attribute this to the high amount of ozone in the water due to the 24/7 operation of the generator. How much borate buffering should I add to reduce my pH? My spa volume is approx. 350 gallons. How should I add it? Measured amounts over periods of time, as with bicarb of soda to elevate TA? How long should i wait to take an accurate reading of the net effect on the water balance? Thanks to all in the Foru
  4. ll, replying here to my own post with question about stained filters. I use an ozone generator 24/7. I recently learned that ozone removes heavy metals and iron from water and it will get caught in filter pleats, showing as the brown stain i get. Sounds like i have no need for a sequestrant. Anyone confirm this? Thanks.
  5. Hi, this is not a reply about Spa Frog, but my experience keeping water clean for extended periods. I use bromine in my "away" spa. I also installed an ozone generator that runs 24/7 with my recirculation pump. Together they have been able to keep my spa clean and clear for weeks, even a month or two, at a time. A while ago the ozonator seemed to stop producing the tiny bubbles. With that change came a big change in the water quality while away, despite having the bromine level maintained. I would also turn the heat down, almost off. I have now drained the tub and will refill an
  6. Hi, my old Hot Spring Classic model F, 1989, has tripped the hi-limit breaker. It is an old 110v. model, heater works as long as jets are not on. The circulation pump seems to be cutting out after less than a minute causing the heater to heat too high, tripping the hi-limit breaker. It is not the heater reset breaker. When all cools down the hi-limit can be reset and the jets work fine. But as soon as I turn jets off I hear the recirc pump start, then, if the heater thermostat is set to turn heater on the recirc pump shortly stops and the breaker trips. The heater housing is hot at this point.
  7. Contact Hot Spring reps for guidance about your model by serial number. Also might try to purge the heater of air. If you had open lines with the leaks it might have accumulated air which can cause heater limit to trip because it heats too high quickly, air heats faster than water.
  8. try replacing the cheap little check valve in your tubing
  9. You are in the right place. Go to the Spa Water Chemistry part of the Forum and look for the Dichlor/Bleach method thread. The water chemistry members lay it out very clearly. Read alot, digest it, get the right supplies and have patience.
  10. First thing that comes to mind is to go back to Hot Spring tech support. It is their system, their part, they should be able to help, and you have already had good results with them, as have many of us through this Forum. Next, an old lesson learned when i was doing a tune-up on an old points ignition system in a car. Everything was new, but the darned thing would fire over once and back fire. When finally checking the new points I discovered they had no tungsten coating, so they were bare steel and one spark was all it took to foul them. Why do we insist on trusting the "new" part to be as ad
  11. As far as getting information on how much of what to add that is also part of the explanations in the booklet. It takes some practice to get the conversions right, but the information is all in the kit.
  12. The Taylor 4-test kit is easy to follow and the measurements are sight-read. It does not take alot of practice to get it right. And the explanations of water chemistry and balance that come with it are straight-forward, even for a non-chemist. It would also reinforce some of what he learned in the abbreviated course.
  13. If my covered spa sits in full sun half the day when ambient temp is high 90's and the spa thermostat is set low, almost off, the spa will reach mid-90s. If the thermometer sits in the sun in spa water that is in 90's it will quickly rise higher than spa temp. Don't underestimate the power of solar. That is not to say something else might be going on, like your temp setting is off, as in not accurate anymore.
  14. I have a 110 volt spa. My heater system showed similar result oin tests. I had a bad relay. There were 2, I replaced one, but it was the wrong one. Once i replaced the correct heater relay all works well for several years now.Good luck, Use this form and the manufacturer contacts. They all helped me.
  15. I should add that if the spa was originally wired and circuited for 220 there may be some modifications of the circuitry, relays, etc., that are necessary in order for the reduced voltage pump and heater to function and to not burn out your pump or heater with the higher voltage the circuitry may draw if not modified. Do check with a professional.
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