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mrwrick

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About mrwrick

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  1. mrwrick

    Lowering Total Alkalinity

    I have read through this thread and am grateful for the clarity it offers in balancing a new fill. My spa is 350 gallons. I DO use a Del Ozone MCD-50 ozone generator (operates with my 24/7 recirc pump, so I am using double check valves to restrict some of the gas, if that works. Hot Spring was reluctant, understandably, to give advice about an after market unit, not theirs). One post by Chem Geek asked if an ozone generator was being used, but after negative reply he did not discuss fuirther. I would like to know what using an ozone generator affects in the attempts to lower pH and TA. My assumption is that the constant off-gassing of ozone into my water is causing my pH to remain over 8. I have not yet added 50 ppm Borates as recommended to buffer pH. I use bromine as my main sanitizer and add chlorine bleach after bathing and when the spa sits for a time to activate the bromine. The ozone has been great for clarity and other than the high pH on Taylor test I feel my spa is well adjusted. Please fill in the gaps in my knowledge of ozone effect on my pH. As always, thanks to the chemists in the forum who give so much to us.
  2. I use bromine in my Hot Springs Classic spa and run a Del MCD-50 Ozone generator 24/7 with my recirculation pump. My Taylor test kit shows consistently high pH, 8 plus. TA is also over 100. I attribute this to the high amount of ozone in the water due to the 24/7 operation of the generator. How much borate buffering should I add to reduce my pH? My spa volume is approx. 350 gallons. How should I add it? Measured amounts over periods of time, as with bicarb of soda to elevate TA? How long should i wait to take an accurate reading of the net effect on the water balance? Thanks to all in the Forum for great advice.
  3. mrwrick

    Stained filters, Cause?Concern?

    ll, replying here to my own post with question about stained filters. I use an ozone generator 24/7. I recently learned that ozone removes heavy metals and iron from water and it will get caught in filter pleats, showing as the brown stain i get. Sounds like i have no need for a sequestrant. Anyone confirm this? Thanks.
  4. Hi, this is not a reply about Spa Frog, but my experience keeping water clean for extended periods. I use bromine in my "away" spa. I also installed an ozone generator that runs 24/7 with my recirculation pump. Together they have been able to keep my spa clean and clear for weeks, even a month or two, at a time. A while ago the ozonator seemed to stop producing the tiny bubbles. With that change came a big change in the water quality while away, despite having the bromine level maintained. I would also turn the heat down, almost off. I have now drained the tub and will refill and start fresh, then resume the pattern of bromine with ozone for sanitizing. I expect the same good results. One issue I have been dealing with is the inability to bring my pH into the test zones; it is always off the chart on high base side. This coincides with consistently high alkalinity. I accept this in order to avoid acidity which could ruin my motors and heater over time. I invite the experts to comment on whether this is a worthwhile method or the consequences i may be facing. This forum is great.
  5. Hi, my old Hot Spring Classic model F, 1989, has tripped the hi-limit breaker. It is an old 110v. model, heater works as long as jets are not on. The circulation pump seems to be cutting out after less than a minute causing the heater to heat too high, tripping the hi-limit breaker. It is not the heater reset breaker. When all cools down the hi-limit can be reset and the jets work fine. But as soon as I turn jets off I hear the recirc pump start, then, if the heater thermostat is set to turn heater on the recirc pump shortly stops and the breaker trips. The heater housing is hot at this point. What I take from this so far is that the jet pump is working, and the heater is working, but the recirc pump is likely blocked so no water is flowing through the heater assembly. While the recirc pump is running, If I put my hand in front of the recirc pump inlet from the tub, where i would normally feel strong suction, i fee little or no suction. I also feel no heat flowing from the heater outlet into the tub. The pump is about 5 yers old, a Silent-Flo E5, I believe. Is this the life of that model pump running 24/7? Would it be intermittent or just quit? Does the intermittent running indicate a blockage rather than a dead pump? Thanks for the help in solving this.
  6. mrwrick

    Hot Springs Heater Reset

    Contact Hot Spring reps for guidance about your model by serial number. Also might try to purge the heater of air. If you had open lines with the leaks it might have accumulated air which can cause heater limit to trip because it heats too high quickly, air heats faster than water.
  7. mrwrick

    ozone stop working

    try replacing the cheap little check valve in your tubing
  8. mrwrick

    Spa mainenance

    You are in the right place. Go to the Spa Water Chemistry part of the Forum and look for the Dichlor/Bleach method thread. The water chemistry members lay it out very clearly. Read alot, digest it, get the right supplies and have patience.
  9. First thing that comes to mind is to go back to Hot Spring tech support. It is their system, their part, they should be able to help, and you have already had good results with them, as have many of us through this Forum. Next, an old lesson learned when i was doing a tune-up on an old points ignition system in a car. Everything was new, but the darned thing would fire over once and back fire. When finally checking the new points I discovered they had no tungsten coating, so they were bare steel and one spark was all it took to foul them. Why do we insist on trusting the "new" part to be as advertised? Check that "new" limit switch for its temp/trip point. Pull it out and do the stove top test with a known good thermometer in a pan of increasingly hot water to see when it trips in that pure environment. If it checks out OK you have an issue with another component, maybe a relay. If not, get another "new" one, but try the stove top test first. i know it is very frustrating, went through similar thermostat problem with my older Hot Spring Classic F, a 1989 model. It was a corroded wire where I had assumed all was fine. Good hunting. Please post your process and results here for others to learn. I am sure it will happen to one or more of us with older Hot Spring units.
  10. As far as getting information on how much of what to add that is also part of the explanations in the booklet. It takes some practice to get the conversions right, but the information is all in the kit.
  11. The Taylor 4-test kit is easy to follow and the measurements are sight-read. It does not take alot of practice to get it right. And the explanations of water chemistry and balance that come with it are straight-forward, even for a non-chemist. It would also reinforce some of what he learned in the abbreviated course.
  12. mrwrick

    Water temp at 104

    If my covered spa sits in full sun half the day when ambient temp is high 90's and the spa thermostat is set low, almost off, the spa will reach mid-90s. If the thermometer sits in the sun in spa water that is in 90's it will quickly rise higher than spa temp. Don't underestimate the power of solar. That is not to say something else might be going on, like your temp setting is off, as in not accurate anymore.
  13. mrwrick

    Voltage present but no heat

    I have a 110 volt spa. My heater system showed similar result oin tests. I had a bad relay. There were 2, I replaced one, but it was the wrong one. Once i replaced the correct heater relay all works well for several years now.Good luck, Use this form and the manufacturer contacts. They all helped me.
  14. mrwrick

    Use 120v pump and heater on old tub

    I should add that if the spa was originally wired and circuited for 220 there may be some modifications of the circuitry, relays, etc., that are necessary in order for the reduced voltage pump and heater to function and to not burn out your pump or heater with the higher voltage the circuitry may draw if not modified. Do check with a professional.
  15. mrwrick

    Use 120v pump and heater on old tub

    Check with the forum here, but my opinion is that the change to 110 (120V) will simply reduce the functions of heater and jet pump to either/or. When jets are on heater will not be. Once jets are off heater will function. I have a 110 v. older spa and that is exactly what it was designed for, as opposed to the 220v. model in which both circuits function together. Unless you cannot enjoy a spa as temperature slowly drops when jets are on you will find it is fully functional in both cycles, either/or.
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