ratchett

From my experience in the 3D printer world, your hottub is "overshooting" the desired water temp to ensure it's within "range" which is typically within 1 to 2 degrees of set temp. With the heating elements in my 3D printers, I use a PID tuning sequence to calibrate the heater for the printer - this is basically a script designed to watch how long it takes to heat up to temp, and cool off by several degrees, and then do fancy math to calculate exactly how long to pulse the heater with electricity to "maintain" temperature most efficiently while maintaining close to the set temperature at all times. Correct, the green ready light indicates the system "thinks" it is within 1-2 degrees of set temperature. It should not be illuminated if the temperature is wildly off (higher or lower) than the set temp. What are you using for testing water temperature? Where are you testing the water? Have you confirmed the temperature probe you're using for testing is reading accurately by testing in a pot of boiling water (or other confirmed temperature sources) to ensure it is reading correctly? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but assuming the temperature probe matches the original and is correctly installed it should be reading nearly the same proper temperatures. If it was the wrong probe or incorrectly installed I'd think the temperatures would be WAY off, not just one or two degrees

Did you get it fixed? First try pressing the screen and holding for 20-30 seconds. This might reset the wireless remote. If not, you need to unscrew/remove the battery from the remote for 10-15 seconds. This will reset the wireless remote and it will sync with the tub.

Lol yeah hate to break it to you - not worth it. You'll spend months fixing the tub only to discover things like rubber seals are shot and need to be replaced all around the tub forcing you to redo everything over again. Different leaks appear when water is at ambient temp verses heated up to 100F. Hottubs have the best lifespan when left filled and running the whole time. Spare yourself the headache (and wasted money) - use the money you *were* going to spend on fixing this tub, and watch the market for a used tub between $1000 and $2000 which you can see filled/working in the photos. I see used working tubs in the classifieds which only need minor restoration work (exterior cabinet rebuilt, replacing dead pillows, or old cover for example) selling for less than $2k several times a month. But those deals go fast so you gotta watch the market daily and sort by recently-listed.

I don't think there are any active Marquis dealers on this forum who could help with that level of technical details. Might have better luck on one of the Facebook hottub groups which has tons of active members and often several dealers for each brand, they'd likely be able to help answer your concerns about the lounger seat. Pricing varies completely from dealer to dealer as they're the ones responsible for warranty labor costs (in most cases). Not all dealers operate on the same profit margins. Sometimes it's worth paying extra if you're buying from a dealer you trust with qualified experienced techs who you know will properly fix your tub if/when warranty service is needed. You'll be stuck with the dealer for the duration of that warranty, so might as well buy from one you trust. I personally really wanted a specific Hotspring tub and got a bad vibe from my local dealer (just too many red flags to ignore lol), so I found another dealer equidistant away. What a world of difference - small family run business for decades selling & servicing one brand of hottubs the entire time. VIP service from the moment I entered the store to delivery day when the techs literally reviewed/summarized every page of the owner's manual while filling/testing my tub. Best of all, their pricing was 20% lower for the same make/model tub compared to the other dealer I'd visited the week previously so it was a win/win for me. That said, prices are going up for everything - raw materials are getting harder to find and manufacturing costs are going up. Pricing will continue to increase on all hottubs, as it always does (although now at an accelerated pace lol). The old saying "buy cheap, buy twice" rings especially true in this industry. Good luck with whatever you decide!

Absolutely! Get personal with the dealers - research online reviews. How long have they been in business? Does the dealer sell multiple brands/products or do they sell one brand of spas exclusively? The dealer, not the manufacturer is responsible for warranty labor costs (in many cases) so be sure to do your research on the dealer's and find out what their warranty covers. Ask questions like free-callouts for service - industry average seems to be 6 months to three years, some dealers go above/beyond that to 5+ years free call outs for warranty service. I'm a Hotspring Highlife fanboy but from your list, I'd personally think the J345 will probably give you the best therapeutic massage but the Marquis V84 is a very sexy looking tub from a great brand. Although Jacuzzi did update the J300 series for their 2020 lineup and they do look a lot nicer than the 2019 models I was looking at when shopping for my tub (at that time the J300 series looked extremely dated for price when looking at the competition). Still, if you get a bad vibe from the dealer, walk away and find another one to work with - you don't want to get stuck with cavalier unresponsive dealer when you need help the most. In my case, I *really* wanted a Hotspring but got a bad vibe from my "nearest" dealer (basically a big backyard makeover store selling many big ticket items from multiple brands, sales rep on commission telling me what he thought I wanted to hear to make a sale that day) so I walked away and found another Hotspring dealer equidistant from my rural location and what a world of difference - white glove service, small family run business (selling/servicing one brand for decades), and best of all their pricing was 20% lower for the same make/model/color tub I wanted (same accessories/options included with both deals, no demo/floor model discounts). I've met both main techs and feel confident in their skills each having more than a decade of daily experience servicing only one brand of spas - if I'm spending this much money, I better rest easy knowing they're fixing my tub correctly. I don't have time to call techs out multiple times to fix something when it's wrong Good luck with whatever you purchase, it'll be worth the wait!

As a product engineer, here's my take: Yes spray foam insulation has several advantages over traditional stuffed insulation (mainly from an energy efficiency standpoint), which is why you'll see most of the big name brands use it on their main flagship tier spas. However without the proper tools, spray foam can be a PITA to remove easily from a tub - if you're a weekend warrior who would rather DIY a fix instead of hiring a professional, spray foam tubs are not going to be your friend. Personally after waiting twenty years, I opted to spare no expense. My tub has multiple densities of spray foam (depending on the location on the tub - high density close to the shell/plumbing, or low-density for filling the voids between the shell and cabinet walls) and it is extremely energy efficient (about $10 in the summer time and $13-$15 in electrical costs per month in the winter). But I also have zero intentions of performing any major maintenance/repairs myself on the tub - if there's ever a leak I'm calling my dealer's techs who spend 40 hours a week for the past decade+ servicing nothing but Hotspring spas around this half of my state. It's also heavier and costs more to ship 😉

Did you buy the tub new from a dealer? If I'm not mistaken that remote should have a five year warranty. Mine had a few pixels going bad after a year so I called the dealer and they replaced it free of charge. If you bought it new from a dealer and depending on when, the controller might still be covered. If that's the case I'd just call the dealer to find out. Otherwise I haven't seen that issue before - have you tried removing the battery from the wireless controller for a few seconds and then reinstalling (need to remove the screws on the back cover then pry off the battery)

Pretty sure that's the case - old filters will get clogged up with dirt/scum/scale over time restricting flow.

Do you use Dichlor pellets for sanitizing the spa? That would be the culprit - excessive Dichlor use can do it. I'm betting your kids likely used more chlorine than necessary As far as I know, drain/refill is the easiest way to handle high stabilizer numbers

Have you tried calling your local Hotspring dealer? Pretty sure if you give them your serial number you can order a new cover for your tub.

There are a ton of 3-seaters on the market which weigh less than 500 pounds and often less than 30 inches tall so they can fit through narrow walkways on their sides. Moving a tub is only a PITA if you get something massive and hire people who don't know what they're doing. With the right tools like a hottub dolly two experts can quickly & easily move a tub from one location to another

Depends - are there 10 jets in the tub, or 50? Jet count and size determine pump size and count needs. Sometimes too much jet pump power for the plumbing can reduce performance. Unfortunately there is no quantifiable way to measure jet-feel, as such a wet-test is the only way to know if the jets can provide adequate therapeutic massage for your needs. Again entirely depends on the person. I had no clue loungers existed until my hunt for my first hottub. This is a very subjective topic and varies entirely from user to user, and tub to tub. Not all loungers are created equally. The first generation of loungers were poorly designed and many people had buoyancy issues making them wasted space in the tub, as such a lot of dealers claim that most second-time buyers skip the lounger when buying a new tub. Personally I REALLY wanted a lounger so I scheduled a wet-test to verify I was comfortable before buying. I'm glad I did because it's our favorite seat in the spa - my wife and I literally fight over it. I spend at least 90% of the time in my lounger seat when using the tub alone. I did a lot of research on loungers and it sounds like people who enjoy recliners and lay-z-boy chairs get the most use out of them. So ask yourself - when you're sitting on a couch, do you lounge out, or sit upright? My Hotspring Jetsetter is also very shallow - only 740mm tall (to fit through doorways on it's side). The seats are still deep enough to get your body under water. The biggest issue you will find is the shallow foot-well for your feet. In my tub the knees are bent up a bit higher than I'd like, but in the lounger, my body is fully submerged up to my neck just like the big tubs. Dunno what's in your region, but I have a feeling your budget is on the slim side for what you want. Even here in the states $6k will only get you into a mid-grade three-seater these days.

Just an FYI for frame of reference. Whenever I drain/refill my tub down here on the Space Coast, my 2019 Jetsetter heats up at 4 degrees per hour (with the cover closed). So when I refill the tub, it takes about 10 hours to heat up to temperature. If I drain/refill early enough in the day, I can actually start using my tub that night

The 240V allows you to operate the heater and the jet pump concurrently. It does not increase the performance of the jet pump pressure. My 2019 Jetsetter is on 110V. I'm down on FL's Space Coast and have no problem with the tub holding near temp. During the "winter" with temps in the 40's we might see the water temperature drop two degrees from 104F to 102F during a soak, unless it's very windy and then we might see it drop another one degree to 101F or even 100F after a 30 minute soak. So in your house without any breeze you should be totally fine. Note - you will need a special single-outlet plate and a dedicated 20-amp 110V circuit to have enough electricity to power the tub. ( Hot Spring Caldera Spa GFCI Housing Cover 39453 ), and the GFCI power cord. You'll also need to change the jumpers to configure the tub for 110V so it doesn't try to run both heater and jet pump concurrently.

The Escape SE has 30 jets with a 3hp motor. The Escape LS has 45 jets, with a 3hp and a 2hp CD pump. I'm thinking a larger motor/impeller will risk damaging the plumbing. Hell of a risk on a tub this new. Have you tried talking to your dealer? You are not a satisfied customer, maybe your dealer might be willing to work with you? Don't know what the chances, but it's better than being stuck with a tub which underwhelms. Who knows they might let you trade in your tub for the Escape LS model.

My 2019 Jetsetter has the Freshwater Salt compatibility. It is definitely the best saltwater system on the market for hottubs. However the replacement salt-cell cartridges are a proprietary part only available from your local dealer (usually $129 each or $350 for a 3-pack) - and since it's a newer product you can't find it online from an alternative vendor at a lower cost. Also note while the cells are rated for four months, that's not a guarantee - improper usage (running output higher than needed, or out of range water chemistry) can kill a cell faster than normal. I personally opted to go with my dealer's preferred care routine which is similar to @RDspaguy which utilizes a high output Ozonator and Silver Ion cartridge to reduce sanitizer needs. With my care routine, I am dosing the tub with a bit of Dichlor to sanitize after each use. Overall I spend about $35 in chemicals (Dichlor56 and Baking Soda for pH adjustment) per year for my 200-gallon spa, and about $90 for Hotspring branded Nature2 Silver Ion cartridges - so about the price of a single saltwater replacement cell. Maybe one day I'll test out saltwater in my tub, but for now I'm perfectly content with my ozonator setup

The Watkins high output ozonator has a rated lifespan of 20,000 hours. Many other cheaper aftermarket ozonators I've seen are rated at 10,000 hours. Be sure to research the rated lifespan of the device before buying. The last thing you want is to go through all this hassle every 13 months! Pretty sure the Watkins ozonator is only like $300 and includes a new mazzei injector with the kit Edit, yea the complete kit - ozonator/tubing/injector is only $268 over on Amazon - Hotspring PN 72602

I'm on a few Facebook Hottub groups and I swear I see stories like this every week. Crazy how many people have issues with Folliculitis in their tubs. Nasty stuff, glad I've never had an encounter with it. Although it makes me second-guess using hottubs in AirBNB's and Public hotels, that's for sure!

Yeah that's too much. In my 200 gallon tub, I top off with water every month or two with daily usage (normal evaporation and splash-out), less than an inch or two of water loss over that period - an inch every three days is too much. I'll bet your hottub's insulation is soaking up the water loss like a sponge. Personally, I don't have the time to play plumber so I'd simply call the dealer and let it be their problem. Good luck finding your leak!

My Hotspring Highlife is full foam. My dealer includes five years free call outs for labor and service on most items (longer on the shell itself) - both main techs on payroll service Hotspring spas exclusively all day long for multiple HS dealers around the state. I know my dealer's techs use an electric hot knife to slice through the multi-density foam like butter, although some old school techs still rip out the foam by hand (which is definitely not the easiest method to handle repairing full foam insulated tubs IMO). It really comes down to who you plan to repair your hottub - I'm not a plumber and I don't have time to DIY repair my $10k hottub. I'd much rather pay a professional who knows what they're doing to properly service my spa if/when it needs repairs. But sure, if you're a DIY weekend warrior trying to save $$, I get it - full foam tubs suck. @castletonia How many years does your dealership include parts/labor for Hotspring Highlife tubs on repairing leaks with full foam insulation? Pretty sure it's five years for most components

How old is your remote? My dealer includes a five year warranty on the remote against stuff like that - if your tub is a 2016+ I'd call your dealer and ask if it's covered

For what it's worth - my Hotspring dealer has me on basically the same care routine..... Circ pump + ozonator running constantly with a nature2 (Hotspring rebranded) silver ion cartridge. The math my dealer has for my 200 gallon Jetsetter tub is 1/2 teaspoon Dichlor56 per person (per 30 minutes, rounding up) added to the tub after soaking and then hit the clean button to run the jets for 10 minutes. Test pH once a month (boost with four ounces of baking soda as needed) and clean/rotate my three ceramic filters. We use our tub for half an hour every night of the year with very few exceptions, and our care routine has been great. Only times I have cloudy water are when the pH drifts too low, or I'm not using sufficient chlorine for usage (started using tub more when weather got colder and found I had cloudy water issues, cleared up when I started adding half a teaspoon more chlorine than I had been)

Is the leak by the motomassager unit? I see so many leaks in that section of the tub (often on the drain at the bottom of the motomassager unit) It's a 2015 NXT, should have tons of life left in it. If it were my tub I'd spend the money and call the dealer to have them fix it the right way. These are not some mid-grade run-of-the-mill hottub.

What happens when you reset the system? Does anything happen? Have you checked the breaker inside your main box to confirm it hasn't tripped? How old is the tub?

It's likely your tub uses some off-the-shelf industry standard components. I suggest you take some photos of the control board, topside controller, and any other detailed photos you think might be useful then post them here. There's a few helpful techs on this site who might be able to identify the specific spa-pack used in your tub and can provide some better guidance to get your tub back fully functional again 🙂