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newtubuser413

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About newtubuser413

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  1. I keep my hot tub covered all the time unless I'm using it, since it is sitting outside and I don't want debris or whatever else to get into it if I'm not using. Would having it on slow down the oxidization of combined chlorine since it dissipates into gas? As in, if I shock it and I leave it covered for a few days, would the limited air in the hot tub gets saturated with the gas to slow down the chlorine oxidization process, leading to more biofilm and slower sanitation process?
  2. Hi @waterbear, one thing came to me is your other response below on my old post on temperature...especially the last sentence. I don't use Nature2 but it occurred to me that I turn the temp down on Sunday night to 80...it takes about 2-3 days to get from 100 down to 80. Only circulation is the "filter cycle" runs twice a day, once per 30 minutes the other time for 1.5 hours (2 hours a day total) during those three days. It just came to me that this may be the cause? Since it takes 2-3 days to cool down, biofilm may have more time to grow? My tub uses friction heating so if I keep temp low
  3. @waterbear Thank you for the thoughtful reply. Most of the three months I've been using test strips only until I decontaminated the tub 3.5 weeks ago. Below is a quick timeline: Dec: Got tub, filled it. Used it only on the weekends (friday, sat, and maybe sunday). I don't use it during the week because of work, so kept temperature at 80 during the week then bump it up to 103-4 thursday night for friday night and weekend usage. After sunday, I would turn it down to 80 again. Jan to end of Feb: Same usage. Kept chlorine and ph balanced...but used only aquachek test strips. Not t
  4. @nightmara I have similar issues...owned tub for 3 months no issues...then I started getting a rash. Granted I didn't have a kit and was using test strips only. I decontaminated according to Nitro's instructions, and this time went fully test kit and bleach method (20-30 CYA) as instructed...after a few times still got rash. The only thing I'm guessing now is maybe instead of biofilm I'm allergic to the high chlorine content (I'm erroring on the high side of for chlorine since I was convinced it was biofilm). My chlorine demand is very reasonable at 20-30% over 24 houts. I'm going t
  5. Thanks. I ended up lowering it again with sodium bisulfate after reading some more...looks like PH is really the number I need to pay attention to and TA is there to stabilize. My PH now is at 7.4 and my TA is around 75. Thanks for answering!
  6. Tested my tub. PH = 7.8, TA = 65, FC = 4.5, CH = 100. According to Nitro's water maintenance, TA is low and CH is low-ish. I will raise CH tomorrow (bought calcium chloride coming tomorrow). I added two tablespoons of baking soda but I know it will raise PH as well as TA. I'd imagine PH will be at least 8.0 next time I test. For future reference, how do I ONLY raise TA without PH since my PH seems to be at a good level?
  7. @Ahhsomeguy @RDspaguy Yes, I did remove the filter and left floating in there. What you see is what happened, in that the crud stuck to the filter (floating, not installed). I deviated from the instructions in that I left it overnight (per Nitro Decontamination process) instead of 15-30 minutes, which is probably why the amount of crud got stuck to the filter that you see in the picture. My question is, why even have the filter in there anyway? Why not just take it out and set it somewhere during this purge process.
  8. Ugh...🤮 this biofilm is so sticky and hard to get off. Any ideas or is this just gonna take elbow grease? I’ve been using bleach wipes as my paper towers have been ripping.
  9. Thank you so much. I got a long day ahead of me to try to disinfect
  10. I bought brand new hot tub since December. Used it 2-3 times a week on weekends since then and kept up on TA and FC levels, but only using MPS and Chlorine Granules. Changed filter two weeks ago and added some water to top off. Started getting rash (wife did not). I don't know the cause...thought it was new filter at first or maybe water was dirty when I did top off. Read up on this forum and basically learned about biofilm. In the midst of going through decontamination sticky. I don't know exactly what caused the change but it may be because I am not using the bleach method and my CYA
  11. Thank you both for the response! The water turns out is not cloudy...just that now that the flow is faster, the water movement is causing the water to look cloudy. Once it stops running the water is all clear. I'm "cleaning" the filter every month...but that means just running strong spray water in between as much of the pleats as I can...I haven't tried the tsp method yet so the "grease" and all that is still on there. I try to get as much of the hair and debris off.
  12. I ordered a replacement filter that fits my spa. After replacing the oem filter and turning it on, the water seems to be sucking in at a faster rate than my oem filter and the water became cloudy/milky. I'm guessing this filter may not have as good filtration? Or maybe my old filter is just dirty enough that the water is not filtering as efficiently as it should be. Interested in other's experience in this. Thanks in advance!
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