Cusser

Is poor grammar safe for kids? Is a bathtub safe for kids?

Try running without a filter. When my filter got a little clogged up, did not build up enough pressure to activate the pressure switch, so that's how I troubleshot mine. Washing didn't help, I bought a new filter. And a back-up one, online.

I bought an inexpensive chain at Home Depot claiming it was "solid brass" to try. If that doesn't work, I'll try the nylon fishing line line suggestion I saw on Google.

I have a stupid question about a pool thermometer; in fact it's so stupid that I'm posting almost the same question in the Spa/Hot Tub Forum. I'm in Arizona, and everything I've tried to tether a thermometer to the side of my pool degrades pretty quickly due to the sun and/or the chlorine (I use a floating dispenser and 3" tablets). In my hot tub, I use bromine tablets, and the "tether" is not exposed to the sun. I've tried polypropylene thin rope, trimmer line, cotton thin rope, even a brass-like chain like used on a ceiling fan. I've bought several thermometers over the years, and the tethers on them amazing degrade just as fast. So I'm open to suggestions as what you folks have found to be sturdy over time in the presence of chlorine, thanks.

Look at the pump itself, should state whether it is 120 VAC or 240 VAC. I believe that the pump on my CalSpa is 240 VAC, not just its heater.

I've bought a lot of stuff from HomeDepot.com, have you looked at these hot tub/spas, they start at $2000 and have very good reviews (covers may be additional) https://www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors-Hot-Tubs-Home-Saunas-Hot-Tubs/N-5yc1vZcfz2?Ns=P_REP_PRC_MODE|0 One can also at time of purchase contract with Home Depot to install this, they have contractors who work only for them, and that way the entire job, including wiring is covered by one source. We had French doors ordered through HD and had HD do the install for that reason, went very smoothly.

I watched your video, and I don't agree with rftsr's post about ditching your tub. Yes, I think that the light fixture is leaking somehow, and getting down to the white foam insulation where you see it. You could drain lower than the light fixture and then see if that area remains dry. My spa also has that blown-in insulation, and if your Alaska climate doesn't make this impossible, after the repairs I'd push flexible foam into the open spaces as insulation instead of spraying in more expandable foam....would make any future repairs much easier. I have a 30-year-old CalSpa, and I've had leaks and fittings that have needed repair, including a slide-type knife valve that broke in the closed position and I couldn't even open up to operate the spa. The water losses I've had in the past didn't really bother me with loss of water, just figured that my redwood parts would rot out. And I've also used Seal-a-Leak successfully for leaks which I could not find that might be in the side 6" away from the house.

Hoping for you !!

Hmmm - my spa drain was (originally) a male garden hose fitting; if yours is similar, maybe a new cap and washer from Home Depot could seal ? Or screw on an on-off valve? Anyway, since I also have an above-ground pool, I also have a small submersible pump, and I have also used that to drain my own spa, quicker !

I have a 1988 model CalSpa, since new. It developed a small leak - not in the equipment side, about a decade ago. Of course if the leak is visible, then just repair it. Two other sides were accessible, I tore those sides open and pulled away blown-in foam, could not find the leak. I ended up using spa Seal-a-Leak liquid https://www.spadepot.com/Seal-a-Leak-Spa-Leak-Sealer-16oz-P790?zmam=55673001&zmas=1&zmac=1&zmap=MT1018&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjb2WjO-M2wIVAtVkCh2-oQLIEAQYASABEgLO4vD_BwE I use this as needed, once or twice a year, it does work.

I use a liquid pool/spa liquid leak sealer in my spa, maybe once or twice a year. It does work.

We have outdoor speakers from the inside stereo. Last summer my kids gave us a 37" TV which I hung from the patio ceiling, we can rotate to watch from in the spa. Note that we have a 1988 CalSpa so electronics like that were not even "thought of" back then. But I'd rather not be "stuck" with stereo or TV decided upon from a spa manufacturer.

Sounds like a Master dealer put on a deceptive "expo"...

1. Take a FRESH sample of water to a pool store for free test. 2. Run to Home Depot or pool store and try a different kit.

Let me guess what year and model spa you have. OK, I give up, I have no idea !

My own spa (1988 CalSpa) is on a slab and next to my home, with leakage on the slab. I couln't find my leak anywhere in equipment pack side, so I took off the two accessible sides to look for leaks or discoloration after chipping away insulation, couldn't find any leak. I put in some rolled foam insulation, closed it up. Now I use leak sealer solution once or twice a year, and it works. Next time I have the spa empty I'm going to try some JB marine epoxy on a few cracks in the shell.

Contact the police, fraud.

If it was mine, and new elements were no longer available or real expensive, I think I'd make a square block off plate and make a hole in the center so I could use a standard bolt-in or screw-in water heater element from the hardware store. Even the steel square plate from your old element might be able to be used for this. My 1988 CalSpa did not have a great set-up for the screw-in element as purchased, I had to modify that to enable easier element changes. Be innovative !!!

Contact Hayward, or look online for wiring instructions. Or call an electrician. Or - if new pump - return for a 110 VAC pump.

That's accessible, think that the "flex" tube could be cut just below the "4" and new parts then used. I'd let the glue dry BEFORE attaching the screw fitting to the pump. Alternatively, you might want to try Seal-a-Leak which will not require any physical repair there https://www.spadepot.com/Seal-a-Leak-Spa-Leak-Sealer-16oz-P790?zmam=55673001&zmas=1&zmac=1&zmap=MT1018&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-ebRpfjD2gIVAZ-fCh2caAHeEAQYASABEgJzhPD_BwE I use this product on my 30-year old CalSpa which has had a leak for years that I cannot find. I added some last year. It does work.

My CalSpa is 20 years older than yours, and completely different. But I doubt that any manufacturer would have pipes going to the pump or from the pump (at least for several feet) covered with insulation.

I have a 1988 CalSpa with gate valves that leak somewhat, glued-in ones, they'd be difficult to replace because of access. Once the up-handle broke in the closed position (which partially sealed off the valve and would prevent spa use) so I bought replacement gate valves at local Ace Hardware which had same 4-screw pattern, and used the "innards" of those in mine, that worked for a while. A few years ago I engineered a workaround for the horrible in-cabinet spa cartridge filter (for which I always had leaks and kept breaking the really large circumference "nut") and right-angled the flow out of the cabinet to a standalone filter with a top opening which works way better for me. I use gate valves (from Ace Hardware, naturally) on each side of the filter cartridge to turn off the water when I open it up to clean the filter. Works for me.

I'm going to try marine epoxy next on my 1988 CalSpa cracks next time the water is out. Loctite makes one (Home Depot), so does JB Weld (O'Reilly Auto). Other epoxies don't claim use under water 100% of the time.

The photo shows a rubber O-ring on the threaded side, that makes the seal. If you want, add a small dab of waterproof pool/spa silicone grease there, and no need to overtighten. Teflon (PTFE or polytetrafluoroethylene) tape is only used for tapered PIPE threads, do not use that on any other type of threads for a seal. As to the hose barb end, can lube with a little water, alcohol, glycerin to get the end on (can warm the hose end if necessary). and use a worm-style hose clamp to secure it.