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Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover. Is there a red led lit on the circuit board?

Wire size #6 3 wire (you don't use the white N) 2 pumps and a circ would be a 50 or 60 amp. With the circuit board set for a 50 amp when you use both pumps on high and the circ pump running the heater might cut out. Circ plus 1 pump on high speed the heater will work. Once you turn on second pump heater cuts out. Circuit board set for 60 amp you can run everything at once. Should be a schematic on inside cover that shows how/where in the board to change the power requirements.

Colored fiberglass pools fade. Period. End of story. This is why I have white fiberglass and recommend the same. It will look blue when filled with water.

Hi, I have this same issue on a GL2000 M3 board, immediately displays OHH on boot, then after 5min everything turns on full, pumps jets and blower! Had some intermittent OH problems before this, caused by the main pump motor stalling, sorted with a couple of new capacitors on the motor. temp probes measure the right resistance. looking at the board it appears there are some similarities and some differences with the GL2000 vs the EL2000, I have found D3 and D7 but they are further apart on my board see photos below. Defiantly looks like some evidence of over heating on D7 but not sure about D3. D7 and D3 are both the Z9W diodes which is the 10v one I think. Also some evidence of heat at Z11 which is a circuit protection diode I believe. I have ordered some replacements and I’ll let you know how I get on @Michael H did the diodes fix your problem on the EL2001 board?

Hi all Had a strange issue awhile back with a main hose being sucked in by a pump which leaked water , I drained down for the winter and replaced the hose. I filled up at the weekend and now getting flashing heater and pumps none of the pumps run and the heater doesn’t work? The blower works and the lights etc. IMG_6620.mov IMG_6620.mov Could it be the water level sensor, how do you check it? appreciate any help. I am an engineer and previously repaired the main board which had the burnt out relay to the heater, had similar issues with that but I have checked it and it is ok? IMG_6620.mov

Thursday Pools Wellspring graphite installed in 2021. We noticed fading/bleaching in 2nd season (2023) above the water line. Once we closed the pool for the winter we had very noticable fading below the water line. But, like Lafayette_tim said, we have chairs on the sun shelf and the color is fine underneath the chairs. The sun has faded it badly and in my opinion has nothing to do with water balance. I haven't notified Thursday Pools yet but after reading all of the comments here I don't think they'll help. Let's hope we can get some kind of help with our pools. This is not right.

Yeah that's a FUp and replumbing it all could be difficult. Since you have deleted the "Salt" diode I might first pop the handle all the way out. Next cut the top of the gate valve flat by cutting off and removing the part where the handle goes when closed and hooks in to the top of the gate valve to hold it in a closed (down) position. Next get in the hole and using a screwdriver or the gate handle and push the slice portion all the way down so it is in a closed position. Then using 2 part plastic weld epoxy (I use Devcon plastic weld epoxy) fill the hole at the top of the gate where the handle went in. Cutting off the part where the handle goes in the down position and making it flat will make applying the epoxy and filling the hole easier. Now you have to do something about the flex hose on the right of the carbon rods in first photo. Looks like it is 3/4" flex going into 3/4" Rigid pipe? Can't see what's above or where the rigid goes. You could leave it as is and not do anything but there will likely be little or now flow going through the pipe with the gate in the closed position permanently and water might sit there on the carbon rod side and go stagnant and nasty over time. You could cut the 3/4" flex in the middle and cap plug both sides of it. Where does the rigid plumbing line go?

Hello - I recently purchased a 2017 Jacuzzi J470 hot tub second-hand. The electrical cover plate located inside the hot tub indicates that the Tub can be configured for 30 / 50 or 60 amp. However, the 2017 Manual that Jacuzzi sent to me based on the S/N of the hot tub says it should be 40/50/60 amp configurations. Is it possible the cover plate inside the hot tub was misprinted and I should go off what the manual says it should be? Jacuzzi customer service did not have a good answer other than that model and S/N of Jacuzzi should follow the attached manual they sent me, which says 40/50/60 amp configurations. I want to wire it properly and dont want to undersize / oversize the wire size... 2017 - J-400 Owner's Manual.pdf

I have an older LA Spa Oasis with what appears to be an S-class gecko unit. It seems to hover around 80-90°. the water temperature reading shows it at set temperature. When the water cools off the heater kicks on and brings it back to what it thinks is temperature. So essentially it’s maintaining an incorrect temp. All other functions seem to be normal. the heater kicks on and kicks off as if it’s maintaining the set temp. I had a technician repair the circuit board, the issue persisted. He then replaced the thermometer. Heated to the correct temperature for a day or two. Now it is back to hovering between 80 and 90 and it seems to be the same. No error codes obvious. Right after the thermometer was replaced the control panel read “32” but that went away overnight. The technician appears to be stumped. we checked to confirm that it is not an economy mode as the manual states for troubleshooting. Any advice on things to check would be very appreciated. Located in Bend Oregon

Inspector failed our electrical inspection for hot tub install because he is requiring us to put one machine screw in at each joint of the birdcage. We didn't install or have anything to do with the birdcage. Anyone else run into this issue?

Hottub is from about 2009. Last time I emptied my hottub, after filling, some of the jets were not working. This tub has 2 pumps, some jets run on each pump, so it does not appear to be a pump issue. The circ pump runs and water comes out a lot of the jets, but a lot of the jets near the steps/pump are not working. Also, the ice bucket and filter bowls are not draining. So I'm just in the process of emtying again, and was hoping to get to the bottom of the issue. With the water drained, if I remove a non-working jet and stick the hose in there, water comes out many of the other non working jets. The tub has a salt water system, but i gave up using it many years ago. I'm thinking one of the knife gates may have broken closed and is preventing water from circulating to a bunch of specific jets? I t looks like there is a knife gate that would allow you to isolate the salt water electrode thingy for replacement, and sure enough, now the handle comes completely out, so clearly that gate is now closed (can't say for sure what state it was in before emptying). So, first of all does that make sense? If so, is there any way I can get that valve open, and just fix it open? I've replaced 2 of those valves with ball valves in the past, along with the heater. Replacing this one looks a bit more troublesome due to short pipe lengths, and different sized plumbing. I've attached a few pics. Please let me know if anyone has some ideas or insights... Thanks!

gentle Spa is basically pH neutral. IT should not have any effect on pH since it's a mixture of boric acid and sodium tetraborate pentahydrate (pentahydrate form of borax)

To follow up on my previous post. Here is an image of the ESP32 I am using and how it looks within the controller's enclosure. The RS485 protocol is 38400 bauds N,8,1 and the Checksum is the sum of all previous bytes except the first one XOR 0xFF. The ESP32 device is very good at reading the data, you can see it over WIFI within Home Assistant in near real time.

I bought a few bottles a while back and never used them as i kept thinking i was changing the water soon , why waste it. Anyway , water changed, i'm around 30 cya so i swapped back to 12.5% bleach. ph was around 7.4 and ta around 50 -60. I actually think its 50. Hard for me to tell the next color change, maybe i'm thinking faster than i can see! My understanding is to drop the ph down as gental spa will raise it. My question is at 50 TA. I dont want to drop the ta anymore , is this corect? I am asking here becuase the bottle says to get it to 100 TA which i understand not correct. It also reads ph nuetral which from what i also read this may not be correct. Do you sneak up on it or drop in 4oz per 150 gallons? i'm around 450 according to my water meter. Tub says its 470 but thats too much since it rises over the speakers when in use and drowns out the tunes.I have some borate strips which i guess i need to check the date now.

Hi everyone. After some work, I got the RS485 bus of the IQ2020 connected to a ESP32 device using ESP-Home and so, connected to Home Assistant. Pins attached. It's not a complete project since I don't know the binary protocol to talk to the tub, however the physical connection work. Attached in the expansion port pin information as I could figure it out. Some of the data provided above helped. If anyone has more data on this topic, please open an issue on GitHub or let me know here. Thanks.

Sorry for the late opinion but JMO,I'm no expert here as some here by any means but I would look at the 2006-C kit. It has 2 oz agents instead of 3/4 oz. I'v been testing mine quite a bit and run through certain reagents rather quick. I also would look at the Taylor stirrer. Around $45 or so on Amazon. It will aslo fit in the 2 oz kit. Makes it easier for me testing TA and CH since im not trying to add drops with one hand and swirel with the other at the same time. For whats its worth, when i test for FC i never used the stirrer for that until last week. It just hit me why not as i always had a few bits of powder that took some time to disolve. Have no idea on the pillows for that model but keep mine pulled and only put one or two in when I need them. i wipe the tub rail down when I'm de using it and they arent in the way then.

Hi! I just purchased a new home that came with a 2004 Prodigy H, and I've had to do some repairs including installing a new Watkins No Fault Heater, Freshwater III ozone system, and fixed some leaks. During my repairs a small tube snapped off the L bend from the heater pump to the heater inlet (see the attached diagram in red). What is this tube for? I've made a new tube, and instead I've use a tee piece (in green) instead. The tube from the ozone generator goes to the heater outlet tube. Any ideas what this tube is for?

yes. use a pruduct such as Ahhsome. true It won't require daily additions of sanitizer once you get everything set up and the floater adjusted but there is often a period of trial and error to get there.

I would appreciate advice on getting started with a used hot tub. I've researched these pages and saved the processes from Nitro's chlorine method, Water Bear's 3-step bromine method and Hillbilly Hot Tub's decontamination method. I owned a Sundance Optima back in the '90s and used Baqua Spa sanitizer but it looks like that method has never really taken hold but I liked it for its stability. I am buying a 2-1/2 year old Jacuzzi J-365 that the original owner contracted with a local company to maintain for him. It is using bromine. I believe I want to continue with the bromine principally for less frequent maintenance / high temp stability since we're traveling a lot. I do plan to install new filters and get a Taylor test kit. 1. Would you recommend that I start with a decontamination even though the tub has been professionally maintained? 2. I see that both chlorine and bromine are chosen by very knowledgeable people and there isn't a strong consensus for one over the other. True? I don't see much love for the Frog @Ease system on these pages? Is bromine the best choice assuming I want less frequent maintenance? Thanks in advance! Joe

I know this is an old thread, but the same thing just happened to me. When I unplugged my salt cell (to clean it) and plugged it back in, unit read “HI” after a minute. The display cell # should have read t-15 but it reverted to a t-3 for some reason. Once I manually changed it back to t-15 on the display, the HI reading went away and the salt reading was normal again! Hope this helps someone else

Okay. I need help. I'm ready to give up. Without the buy a new one comments, I got a secondhand hotsprinfs jetsetter spa. (Unknown year) It's an older model. Previous owners accidentally let it run dry and didn't use it again. I got it. Looked into the situation. Bought a new circulation pump, and now a heater. Both with help and cross referencing numbers. It pumps water now but, after replacing the heater, the lights on the circuit board (lim light, and heater light does not light up) and the ready light is just flashing with the power light on solid. I'm not sure what that means or what to do?

I've got the new heater installed and it works! Yay! Thanks for all your help.

I've got a 2011 J-230 Jacuzzi hot tub. The 2-speed motor in it was getting pretty noisy, so I decided to replace it before it failed entirely. I bought a new LX Lingxiao 56 Frame Pump 4.0 HP 230 volts 56WUA400-II from spacare.com. I haven't done this replacement before. I've got the motor wired in and the tub refilled. When I turn on the breaker the motor starts for maybe a second or two, then shuts itself off. 240V is still being supplied by the control relay to the motor. I get an FL1 error shortly after, of course. I recorded a 1 min video of the setup and behavior: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mG0h4zFYGCE For those who have experience, does this seem like motor failure, or am I missing something with the replacement?

I also do not get the jets pump to start when I return power to the spa. Those used to come on right away. I can attach a video of what this is doing. I have purged all the air out of the system. The tub is full. The locked icon keeps flashing in the upper left corner of the display. If I remove the new circulation pump the display goes blank. The system is then quiet. Nothing running. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DvOVO-W2eIHrHhITzNY_6q34kJI8itZa/view?usp=sharing

I have a 2005 Sundance Spa series 850 the Capri model. There was some sort of jumper wire or remove a jumper that allows you to get the spa hotter than 104. Does anyone know how to do that? The circuit board is 6600-092 Rev D