Suckerbait Posted November 29, 2020 Report Share Posted November 29, 2020 The power and ready light blink simultaneously and sporadically. The tub will heat fine for 3 or 4 days then both lights will start blinking for 3 days then it will work fine again for 3 or 4 days. Circulation pump is working, filters are clean (or taken out), no air locks. It's a 2008 hotspring sovereign Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted November 29, 2020 Report Share Posted November 29, 2020 The circulation pump can be working and still be a problem. Do you have a good strong stream of tiny bubbles from the heat return, like when it was new? Post a pic of the circuit board. Do you have a multimeter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suckerbait Posted November 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2020 It has a water feature which seems to be running fine. I'll go pick up a new multimeter today. What am I measuring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suckerbait Posted November 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2020 Is it possible that the circulation pump is not working well enough but still pumping water through the water feature? I added some fix a leak to the system last week. Would this have gummed up the pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 Yes and yes. Fix-a-leak coats everything and can cause pump, heater, and sensor issues. In addition, I think I can see a burn on your circuit board just above the leftmost relay and on the metal bracket. Also burn or corrosion on the bottom left corner of the "daughter" board with the big yellow square in the middle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suckerbait Posted November 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 Is there a way I can test the sensor. I've read you can jump it but cannot find which wires to jump for this model Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 You can jump the pressure switch, not the thermistors. Those you should remove and wipe off any residue. There are 3 small gray cables going to your heater. 2 connect to the two thermistors which thread into the heater, and the other goes under the cap to the pressure switch. It can be cut inside of the control box and stripped and spliced with a wire nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suckerbait Posted November 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 Thanks for all your help. This evening it decided to work again. So frustrating. Is there any connection to the water temperature dropping to a certain level causing it to reset? I've tried the power on/off reset many times when not working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 Nope, none at all. Keep us posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suckerbait Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 The tub heated up to the set 102 temp then shortly after, the blinking started again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 Turn off power and unplug the thermistors. With your multimeter (set to 20k ohms if adjustable) take a resistance reading on each thermistor. They should be within a few hundred ohms of each other. Post results. Put your hand on the round metal part of the circulation pump after it has been running for a while. Is it warm, hot, or holy crap I need an icepack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suckerbait Posted December 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2020 I finally tested my thermistors and they checked out okay. I'm thinking it must be low flow through my Circ pump. Is there a difference in quality in all the replacement pumps? I see quite a range in prices Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted December 24, 2020 Report Share Posted December 24, 2020 What you have to match is the flow rate. Not all circ pumps are the same even though they look the same. I recommend using the manufacturers recommended replacement or as close to it as you can get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted December 24, 2020 Report Share Posted December 24, 2020 On 11/29/2020 at 9:17 PM, RDspaguy said: In addition, I think I can see a burn on your circuit board just above the leftmost relay and on the metal bracket. I agree with @RDspaguy . I would be pulling that heater relay board and having a look at the backside before spending money on other parts you may or may not need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suckerbait Posted January 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2021 Took my Circ pump apart and it was caked with **** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted January 10, 2021 Report Share Posted January 10, 2021 That'll do it. Make sure you do not run it with the filters and caps out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suckerbait Posted January 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 Update: put the circ pump back together and it still didn't work at full potential. Replaced it with a new pump for $300 CAD online and good to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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