Shamwowguy Posted March 4, 2020 Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 Hello All, I'm currently in need of some help. I have a Master Spa - Twilight Series, the tub will not maintain the correct temp, I currently have it in my garage where I have been working on it. The display temp light which indicates the heater is on switches off but the tub continues to heat or some how gets hot to where the tub overheats and shuts down. The second problem I have is one of the two executive pumps continues to run at all times, would this contribute too my heating issue? Would this be a wiring issue as I did rebuild the pump that continues to power half the jets even on sleep mode. Could it be a relay on the board which closes the circuit to shut off the heater? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted March 4, 2020 Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 Filter cycle duration is set wrong and needs to be looked at. Check manual for how to set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamwowguy Posted March 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 Do you think because its in continuous filtration cycle that is creating the heating issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted March 5, 2020 Report Share Posted March 5, 2020 If the spa runs one of the main 2 speed pumps for heating and filtering then yes. They will get up to 160+ degrees when running for extended periods of time and heat the spa above the set temp from the inside. 2 hours 2x a day is what most will set it at. 2 hours in the AM 2 hours in the PM. Clean filters weekly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamwowguy Posted March 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2020 Thank you for that info. Bad news is I did adjust the filtration cycle down to 2 hours 2x a day, the spa is still over heating. I even tried different setting like economy and sleep mode but made no difference. I even went to the extent of draining tub and starting from fresh and the tub still continuously ran until it started over heating again, also the two speed pump only seem to work on one speed. When I hit the jets but for the second speed it just makes a large humming noise, I did rebuild this pump so I know its all good. That also bring me back to the possibility of the wiring being wrong at the pump? Thanks again for your much needed assistance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 7, 2020 Report Share Posted March 7, 2020 So, the motor you just rebuilt is running continuously and only in low speed, and high speed just hums? I would say check the connections and the work. A wiring issue can occur during a rebuild, too. Running continuously is more often a circuit board issue with a properly grounded system. The pumps needs power to run, and that is controlled by the board. Relays can stick or even weld themselves closed. Sound s to me like low speed pump relay is stuck. When you engage high speed low speed does not turn off which locks up the motor or makes it run very strange, eventually damaging the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 7, 2020 Report Share Posted March 7, 2020 This stuck relay can be brought about by a motor that needs a rebuild, btw. If the relays are open or the caps easily removed, I have had good luck delaying the inevitable demise of the relay by manually opening it with a small screwdriver. If you are handy with the solder gun you can replace the relay fairly easily. Just be VERY careful not to overheat the control side printed circuit, which is very thin, or you will destroy the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamwowguy Posted March 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2020 Thanks for the info, would you happen to have a link or picture of this relay? I'm not very savvy with electrical. So its not possible I simply have the wiring wrong at the pump end? So what iv figured out when the pump light is on (high speed) its just makes the loud humming noise then when the pump light is off the pumps continues to run (low speed) which make me think the pump is wired wrong at the pump? does this sound correct or should I go straight for the relay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted March 7, 2020 Report Share Posted March 7, 2020 Wrong wiring at back of pump is what I would check first. When the spa starts up it should run on low. White (common) wire might be in wrong spot. The red and blk are the high and low so if you have the white in right spot and start the spa and it starts on high switch the red and blk around and try again. White will usually be in the middle or on the top connection. If you have to remove the pump to get at the wiring it's ok to plug it back in before re-installing and test it dry for a for a minute to make sure it works as it should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 7, 2020 Report Share Posted March 7, 2020 Definitely wont hurt to check pump, but, again, the board controls one leg of voltage to pump. Without both legs, pump wont run. If I were on the call, I would disconnect pump wiring at the board, turn on power and test the output at the board. Low speed pump terminal should not read voltage to common terminal when switched to high speed. If it does, your relay is stuck. You cannot test this with pump connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamwowguy Posted March 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2020 I have tried everything, everything points to the relay being stuck. Any pointers on how to go about fixing the relay? I don't want to spend 600 bucks on a new board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 9, 2020 Report Share Posted March 9, 2020 Bring it to an electronics repair professional. Take plenty of pics before you unhook the wires so you can put them all back where they belong. If you feel that you are an electronics repair professional, then replace the relay. Replacements can be had online. If the relay is exposed or has a removeable plastic cover, you can try to locate and open it manually with a screwdriver. This is just putting off the inevitable relay replacement. I do not have a balboa board lying around to photograph, but the board should have labels printed beside each relay. Find the one that says "low". Or track the metal film on the circuit board from the low speed connection back to the relay. But do not do any of this if you have not disconnected the pump wires from the circuit board and tested voltage between the low speed terminal and the pump common terminal, with control showing high speed pump on. If you do not have voltage, you do not have a stuck relay. Easiest way to find out before you pull the board or pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamwowguy Posted March 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2020 **UPDATE** I tried to repair the board to no prevail so I decided to purchase a new spa pack, prior to installing the new pack everything runs the way it should as the two speed pump now runs and turns off and it doesn't continue to run. Now a new issue has risen and the spa will not stop displaying DRY, I checked the filters and they are good, water levels are all good. Compared wiring to old pack and everything is the same. It will run for a minute or so then pull that code! I did drain the tub prior to installing new pack but have never had this issue before, ecpecially for a new spa pack. HELP PLEASE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 18, 2020 Report Share Posted March 18, 2020 Did you fill it through the filter inlet? It sounds like an air lock. Do you see water movement in the tub when the circ pump is running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 18, 2020 Report Share Posted March 18, 2020 Are there valves that might have been closed during your project? What pack did you put in it? Did you confirm dipswitch settings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamwowguy Posted March 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2020 Did not fill through the water inlet, I did by accident have the gate closed on the one end of the spa pack while filling but they are all open, all the dip switch settings are correct. I did crack the union fitting at the pack and it did release some air but not much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 18, 2020 Report Share Posted March 18, 2020 Can you see water movement in the tub from the circulation pump? That valve being closed could have caused an air lock. If you do not see the water moving, turn it off and put your hose into or against the filter pipe and block it up around the hose with your hand or a small towel to try to force the air out with water pressure. Crack the fitting on the front of the pump to release air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamwowguy Posted March 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2020 There is no water movement, can't hear the circulation pump running at all, water isn't moving from heater and essentially over heating. I know the pump was okay because it worked before I switched spa packs. Iv tried all the possible variations on the dip switches and still nothing. If it helps the spa pack is a "Balboa VS510SZ Spa Pack, 54559 With 4KW Heater" Thanks again for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted March 18, 2020 Report Share Posted March 18, 2020 Make sure the pack is wired for the pump voltage. If circ pump is 120v white wire (beside where component attaches to the board with 4 pin connector) has to go to white ac if circ is 240V white wire has to go to red ac same with the pumps and or any other components wire has to go to correct location for either 120v or 240v operation. White AC= 120V Red AC= 240V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 19, 2020 Report Share Posted March 19, 2020 Canadaguy knows what he's talking about. Also, check dipswitch settings based on your new packs configuration, not just matching the original pack. Those made specifically for a certain brand can be different from generic replacement packs. There are 2 dipswitches that control the circulation behavior. Both must be in the proper position to work. Make sure equipment wiring is correct. I assume you just plugged in the old equipment plugs into the new pack. The wiring to the plugs may be different than the original as well, which is why you get new cords in the pack. And be sure to plug in according to the labels on the pack, not just in the same location. Again, wiring could be different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamwowguy Posted March 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2020 I have tried all different dip switch configurations but still nothing, don't know how to go about the wiring. Everything else seems to be working good, I also didn't receive any wiring with the new pack. How would I go about changing wiring to 240/120? Iv attached pictures of the pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted March 19, 2020 Report Share Posted March 19, 2020 You will need to know the voltage of each component...is the circ pump 120 or 240V. Look for the white tag on the circ pump then make sure the white wire below of J47 (W1 or W2) goes to white AC (Top left just under the big fuse) if it is rated 120V or if the circ is rated 240 V the white wire goes to Red AC (just above the copper heater connection) Please confirm if this is set correctly and if you still have issue let us know and we can move on to the next step. Here is the manual (see pages 16 and 17): https://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/VS_Control_Pack_Installation.pdf Disconnect Ozone from board and continue to leave filters out until problem is fixed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 19, 2020 Report Share Posted March 19, 2020 I agree with canadaguy. It is hard to tell in the pic what goes where, but it appears that you have 2 different voltages for your 2 pumps. Check that those white wires are going to the right terminals for your equipment. You have 2 connected to the neutral for 120v and 3 to the red phase for 240v. Connections are above and below the main wire terminals where you connected power to the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 19, 2020 Report Share Posted March 19, 2020 And dipswitch 5 and 9 are on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamwowguy Posted March 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2020 SUCCESS! circ pump is running good. Now a second problem has occurred lol now my two speed pump doesn't pump at all, Just a loud humming on got extremely hot really fast. Pump 1 is running good. I don't get what would have changed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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