Rider98Glide Posted October 2, 2011 Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 Hello, I have a 1994 Hotspot Model Z. It is the round one with 5 jets where the heater sits on top of the pump. I did some trading for this and just hooked it up yesterday. One coupling where the pump is attached to the heater has some initial threads broke off. I was still able to screw it down tight. There is a ridge on the pump side where it almost looks like a gasket/washer/O ring? might go. As of right now just PVC hooked to the metal heater. None of my PVC coupling/joints have any gaskets/washers/O rings on them. Well, it was a gusher of a leak especially on the right side where pump meets heater. So my questions are: Even though I got a tight seal is the fact that some threads are broke off prevent the coupling to go flat against the heater housing. Am I supposed to have some kind of gasket/washer/O ring where all the PVC joints come together? Silicone or plumbers tape? Make my own? My Hotspot dealer is 50 miles from me but then again, I only want to have to do this once. Obviously, this is my first go round in the world of spas. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spa_Guru Posted October 2, 2011 Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 Yes, all connections should have an o-ring or gasket, pvc will never seal to anything without it. Check out the hot springs website for your local dealer for parts. http://www.hotspring.com/find-a-dealer?gclid=COuv4OGIyqsCFR5CgwodaUVm3A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider98Glide Posted October 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 First off I have a hard time signing on here. It says log in successful only to find out when I then click on the hot tub forum part it says I can't post like I am logged out. I do the sign in all over again and the same thing happens-over and over. Anyway, thanks for the previous response as all my coupler leaks are fixed. Now my problem is my pump stopped working-wavemaster 3000 2 stage. It had always worked when jets were on. So I tried to get the heater to work. It would turn on the heat pump cycle only to shut off a little bit later. Then I would hear the relay? or something clicking which would eventually stop. I have to say I was using a heavy duty outdoor extension cord as I am doing test runs to make sure this works before installing plug. Now, even the jet part of pump does not turn on at all when I hit the on button. I have tested the GFI numerous times. Is there a fuse or relay I need to check? On the front of it there is a black heater with silver reset button which in the past I did need to push in to reset it to get it to start again. Does that black button come out and have a fuse behind it? The high heat reset button is fine. Jets on switch maybe? When I push it in to turn on I do hear a clicking noise down in the control box like it is working. Trying to get this figured out before the cold comes. Thanks so much for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spa_Guru Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 First off I have a hard time signing on here. It says log in successful only to find out when I then click on the hot tub forum part it says I can't post like I am logged out. I do the sign in all over again and the same thing happens-over and over. Anyway, thanks for the previous response as all my coupler leaks are fixed. Now my problem is my pump stopped working-wavemaster 3000 2 stage. It had always worked when jets were on. So I tried to get the heater to work. It would turn on the heat pump cycle only to shut off a little bit later. Then I would hear the relay? or something clicking which would eventually stop. I have to say I was using a heavy duty outdoor extension cord as I am doing test runs to make sure this works before installing plug. Now, even the jet part of pump does not turn on at all when I hit the on button. I have tested the GFI numerous times. Is there a fuse or relay I need to check? On the front of it there is a black heater with silver reset button which in the past I did need to push in to reset it to get it to start again. Does that black button come out and have a fuse behind it? The high heat reset button is fine. Jets on switch maybe? When I push it in to turn on I do hear a clicking noise down in the control box like it is working. Trying to get this figured out before the cold comes. Thanks so much for the help. If you have two windows open on your computer with this webpage on it, you will have the problem staying logged on you mention. Running a 120v spa on any type of extension cord starves the spa for voltage, can burn out the jet pump, and do a lot of damage to the electrical system. The button you are pushing is a reset that is tripping on the heater from lack of flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 The 94 Hot Spot's were plagued by wiring, relay, and fuse issues. The spa incorporates a rectifier to energize DC coil relay's, and bumped the voltage too low initially, then too high. More than likely, you either have burnt wires inside the box, a frozen relay, or a burned up fuse assembly. Only way to tell is to take it apart (which requires draining the spa) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider98Glide Posted October 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 OK, thanks once again. I will drain and take the control box apart in the hope that it is just a burnt relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider98Glide Posted October 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 Hello again, I took the control box housing off and all looks good except there is a corroded nut on the left side that two green wires go to. One dark green and one light green. The nut attaches to a screw that goes through the control box housing on the bottom. One of the green wires comes inside the box through the electrical cord. The other goes to the pump/control box electrical plug. I am guessing this is my problem because even when it was working, when I would go to turn it off it sometimes it would shut off and other times I had to mash the button over and over until it did. The rest of the insides look good as no burnt wires. Really surprised how clean it does look considering how old it is. Any thoughts on the corroded nut theory? My other question is do I have to completely hook it back up/refill tub in order to test it? Can I do a quick dry run-5 seconds or less to see if pump will turn on? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 Hello again, I took the control box housing off and all looks good except there is a corroded nut on the left side that two green wires go to. One dark green and one light green. The nut attaches to a screw that goes through the control box housing on the bottom. One of the green wires comes inside the box through the electrical cord. The other goes to the pump/control box electrical plug. I am guessing this is my problem because even when it was working, when I would go to turn it off it sometimes it would shut off and other times I had to mash the button over and over until it did. The rest of the insides look good as no burnt wires. Really surprised how clean it does look considering how old it is. Any thoughts on the corroded nut theory? My other question is do I have to completely hook it back up/refill tub in order to test it? Can I do a quick dry run-5 seconds or less to see if pump will turn on? Thanks. You'll need a meter to troubleshoot anything, particularly the relays. Then, you won't have to dry fire anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider98Glide Posted May 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 Hello once again. Here is the latest. I put a new GFI on the control box then hooked everything back up. I got the jets to pump after pushing the jet on/off button and the black reset button on the control box and the GFI numerous times. After I got it going the thing would not turn off. I hit the black reset button to get it to turn off. Now it won't come on at all. When I push the jet button I do hear a click in the control box. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted May 21, 2012 Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 You'll need a meter to troubleshoot- likely culprits would be a relay, or air switch... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider98Glide Posted May 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 I have a meter can you tell me how to use it? Where do I set the dial and put the probes? Can I check the air switch without taking the control box off again? Thanks for the response. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 I have a meter can you tell me how to use it? Where do I set the dial and put the probes? Can I check the air switch without taking the control box off again? Thanks for the response. Read the instructions that came with the meter regarding OHM and Voltage tests, both AC and DC. If you don't know how to use it, it's probably a good idea to call someone. But if you figure it out- test the coil voltage going to the relays (NOT the line or load voltage) In a 94 Hot spot- thery used 110v DC for coil voltage to open and close the relays. You'll need to run the test with the poer on, the control box removed and accesable. Once you determine if the relays are getting coil voltage- test each one, one at a time, and test the AC Line and Load voltage to see of the contacter portion of the relay is working when it the coil is energized. Remember, you'll be working with electricity, which can be pretty dangerous, so if you don't know what you're doing, then don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider98Glide Posted May 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 OK, thanks. Not to sound like an idiot but is checking the relays the first step in the process or can I check the air switch first without taking control box off? I do hear a clicking like something is working. Totally understand the whole working with electricity scenario. Might be time to go visit my neighbor. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 You'll need to remove the control box to meter out the latching air switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countspacula Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 the clicking you hear is a fair indicator that the air switch is working. something else isnt though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 the clicking you hear is a fair indicator that the air switch is working. something else isnt though Do you think he knows the difference between the half click of a broken air switch that refuses to latch, and the double click of a working air switch? It may well be working, but just because an air switch is making a click to someone that doesn't know what its supposed to sound like, isn't a fair indicator of anythng to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DIyOfuro Posted December 12, 2020 Report Share Posted December 12, 2020 Hi - I just built myself a cedar tub and a buddy gave me a Watkins/Hotspot combination for heating. It seems like I have the same box as being discussed above - a hotspot unit of 92-94 vintage (same as https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/618119117576404801/). The Watkins pump is working fine but the heater is not. It appears that it may be a resistor has fried. So two questions: * Does anyone have an electrical schematic for the Hotspot heater unit? * Any idea what the value of the resistor is? It is the hotspot resistor assembly part 70797. I got this off a supplier's website but they were unable to supply the part or any further info. (see the specifications tab at https://www.hottubspasupplies.com/34689-capacitor-hot-spot.html) I have checked with a couple suppliers and am having no luck getting technical information. Tech support at Hotspot says they have no information on items older than 20 years. Thanks for any help you can provide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted December 13, 2020 Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 Uuuhhhh.... @castletonia. I think they are talking to you...😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
castletonia Posted December 13, 2020 Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 Not a lot of info floating around for anything pre-1995. Attached is the electrical schematic for a 1994 Hot Spot Round Z. This is the oldest I can find for any of the Hot Spots. Not sure if this is what you have but it's all I can find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted December 13, 2020 Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 Well, you are calling it a resistor, but your link says capacitor. The wiring diagram shows both, so which is it? The capacitor you linked looks like it says 180uf (ultra-farads) 250v. The original will also be marked with a uf or mf rating. If it is a resistor it will have an ohm rating or a series of colored stripes around the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jstracy70 Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 i need a new pump. face plate not sure what its called really my kid tightened the screws to tight and now it.leaks anyone know the pump part number for a 93 hotspot round spa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.