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countspacula

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About countspacula

  • Birthday 10/22/1973

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    TN
  • Interests
    hot tub service
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Columbia
  • Interests
    fixing hot tubs

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    b_neese2@bellsouth.net
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    hdawson@gmail.com

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  1. mechanical shaft seal will most likely fix this, there are basically 3 sizes of these that cover most hot tubs
  2. This person is unbelievable in how he can help you through hot tub problems...trouble shooting over the internet...fixed our problem in one hour.. Highly recommend

  3. On the particular brand of pump motor mentioned, there is a switch just inside the back cover that does the change from low to high, it has contacts for each position. The switch is most likely bad, a visual look at it and you will probably see evidence of burn out on the high speed side. The switch is $20, a new pump is alot more........just a though, and easy enough to take a look.
  4. original post: I am planning on buying a hot-tub for hydrotherapy purposes (will probably use 1-2x/day for 15-20 min). We are considering putting it in a sunroom attached to the house, but separated by a door, since we live in New England and I am intolerant of cold, even for brief exposures. An electrician told us that every house he ever worked in with an indoor hot-tub smelled like chlorine throughout the entire house, even when the hot tub was in a closed-off room. What is other people's exeprience with this? Would a salt system prevent the chlorine smell or diminish it significantly? Along the same lines, will an ozonator affect the air quality in the house? What precautions need to be made/designed into the sunroom as far as air quality? Thank you! ****************************************************************************************************** I commented on the "smell" mentioned ONLY. I didn't comment on air quality, or the affects of ozone etc..., or the affects of steam etc. on the structure of the home.
  5. if you are using the correct amount of chlorine or anything else, it should not smell that way. maybe an air purifier closeby could help with any lingering smell, other concerns may exist.
  6. Soldering things onto and off of a circuit board is pretty elementary, given you have the exact replacement part to solder back on, and a sound surface onto which to do it. The transformer nuts and bolts will do nothing for you if you tighten them. The transformer has tiny copper leads on both sides, that connect to the board, ease away the tape and investigate if you can spot an obvious compromise. I have even just heated the connections on the back of the board enough to melt the existing solder a little and it fixes alot of them, most of the time though, when you push on it and it does the on off thing, then a wire has become disconnected from the board.
  7. pull the filters, turn it on, pour in fix a leak, turn it off for 24 hrs. "stir" the tub w a brush etc during the down time. against the instructions but works well.
  8. power it up, with cover off and board exsposed. push on the large transformer middle right on the board, its the largest thing on the board, easy to locate. these boards are bad about the transformerlosing connection. I have soldered many many many of these transformers back on successfully.
  9. after moving the dip switches, you have to power down then back up for the change to be recognized. the two m-7 sensors dont directly control the pump, they control whether the heater comes on, and stays on, or not. Check the voltage rating of your circ pump, and if one of the other pumps in the machine has the same rating, plug one of them into the circ receptacle on the board, this will verify if power is going out to the pump. If this runs ok, then the circ has a problem, they are tough to work on but it may be as simple as a capacitor change, or cleaning the stator and winding tunnel. SN codes are for the sensors on the heater tube.
  10. it will be labeled on the board and will be mentioned on the schematic on the inside of the pack door. It is just a jumper, no tool required, in 1 position is 50, move the shunt and its 60, once you change it, power up everything, including heater and all pumps, check the amp draw and make sure your wire size is adequate for the load.
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