KimC Posted July 11, 2011 Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 I have a Sta- Rite System 2 and every month my cartridge is covered in white stuff so thick I can barely get the cartridge out to clean it. Is there something wrong or is this normal? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoolGuyNJ Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 No, that isn't normal. That sounds like residue from chemical imbalances or from trying to treat for phosphates. We know nothing of your pool except your filter type. We need a good, over all description of your pool and equipment, plumbing size, etc... Lets take a look at your pool, your pool's chemistry, the products you have been adding, and your fill water first. Using a reliable kit, such as a Taylor K-2006 or similar, please post the following for both your pool and fill water: Free Chlorine - FC Combined Chlorine -CC Alkalinity - Alk pH Calcium Hardness - CH Stabilizer - CYA If you have a salt cell for producing chlorine, a test with a salt strip will help. What pump (size too)? Pool Type? Any additional features? Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KimC Posted July 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 Thank you for your response. I will have the pool tested tomorrow and then I will be able to give you the readings. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AFiremanFirst Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 Scott is not recommending you have your pool water tested! He is recommending that you buy the taylor k-2006 and become familiar with testing your own water!!! I don't believe any of "us" work for taylor! But we all depend on the k-2006 for accurate pool side testing. If you have it tested several variables can affect your results, time between the sample being acquired and the time it gets "tested", and what type of testing they do at your local pool store, just to name a couple. We are more than happy to help you! Please help us give you sound advice by getting the taylor k-2006!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoolGuyNJ Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 There are other high quality test kits that use DPD-FAS style chlorine tests. I chose to mention the the one most others brands are modeled after. In fact, I use another brand. If you don't have a proper test kit yet, getting the water properly tested is the 1st priority. Finding a store that does not use strips for testing FC, CC, Alk, pH, CH, and CYA until your test kit arrives is so very important to getting accurate results. Just because they tell you that you need this or that doesn't mean you do. For example, many places may try to sell you things like algaecides or phosphate removers. That's what they have been told to do. Keep the FC where it belongs and you won't need either. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KimC Posted July 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 I have a Sta- Rite System 2 and every month my cartridge is covered in white stuff so thick I can barely get the cartridge out to clean it. Is there something wrong or is this normal? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KimC Posted July 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 Good morning, Please excuse my lack of knowledge on this topic..... I have a Intellichlor and a Sta-Rite system Modular Media Filter. Max E Pro i Hp pump I am having a conflict with Shasta right now because I think they installed the wrong cartridge and filter system to what my book is telling me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KimC Posted July 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 I should add that I am now renting my home out because we bought another one and the renter does the testing. Prior to that I tested the pool and took it to Shasta for the reading. Is there any way to attach pictures for you? I have a picture of my pool cartridge. Thanks again for all of your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterbear Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 There are other high quality test kits that use DPD-FAS style chlorine tests. I chose to mention the the one most others brands are modeled after. In fact, I use another brand. Besides the Taylor K-2006 and K-2006C there is the Leslie's Chlorine FAS-DPD Service Test Kit which is a rebranded Taylor K-2006 and the LaMotte 7022 Commercial 7 test kit (more expensive than the Taylor kit). LaMotte also sells a stand along FAS-DPD chlorine test kit. Hach also made a stand alone FAS-DPD chlorine test kit under the AquaTrend brand but I don't think it is still available since they seem to have embraced FACTS testing full force over FAS-DPD with their AquaChek strips and readers now (sold through their ETS division) even though they say in a paper on chlorine testing methods that the FACTS method of free chlorine testing is not as dependable as DPD testing. I am not aware of any other FAS-DPD test kits on the market and if there are I would be interested in who supplies them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KimC Posted July 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 No, that isn't normal. That sounds like residue from chemical imbalances or from trying to treat for phosphates. We know nothing of your pool except your filter type. We need a good, over all description of your pool and equipment, plumbing size, etc... Lets take a look at your pool, your pool's chemistry, the products you have been adding, and your fill water first. Using a reliable kit, such as a Taylor K-2006 or similar, please post the following for both your pool and fill water: Free Chlorine - FC Combined Chlorine -CC Alkalinity - Alk pH Calcium Hardness - CH Stabilizer - CYA If you have a salt cell for producing chlorine, a test with a salt strip will help. What pump (size too)? Pool Type? Any additional features? Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KimC Posted July 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Ok if you are still interesed here are the readings. FAC = 2.0 TAC = 2.0 Salt = 3000 CYA =2.0 TA =120 PH = 8.0 Acid = 3 PHO = 100 Thanks again for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoolGuyNJ Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 The alk and pH are a bit high. I am assuming the CYA level was a typo. I expect 2.0 should have read 20. This is very low for a salt cell equipped pool. It should be between 50 and 80 and the FC kept at about 5-8% of the CYA level. IIRC, pix can be added. Put the pix in a photobucket album. Each pick will have code options. Use the 4th code option and paste it in the message box. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 What chemical imbalance would cause a buildup every month so severe, that one would have trouble removing the cart from the tank??? Are you having trouble because there is so much white stuff packed around the cartridge? I don't suppose you are introducing D.E.(a white powder/slurry) to the skimmer are you? Or anything for that matter, after you clean and restart the filter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoolGuyNJ Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Cartridge filters, btw, should not have DE added as a normal practice. It will crush/clog the filter elements. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KimC Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 The alk and pH are a bit high. I am assuming the CYA level was a typo. I expect 2.0 should have read 20. This is very low for a salt cell equipped pool. It should be between 50 and 80 and the FC kept at about 5-8% of the CYA level. IIRC, pix can be added. Put the pix in a photobucket album. Each pick will have code options. Use the 4th code option and paste it in the message box. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KimC Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Hi Scott, Not sure if this is going to work but thank you so much for your patience and help. You are right it was a typo for the CYA. http://s1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff388/KimCudmore/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoolGuyNJ Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Looks like your adding chems via the skimmer. How are you adding your chems? Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KimC Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 The pool test are coming back with just add acid and that is just in the deep end. Nothing thru the skimmer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KimC Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Thanks for the photobucket idea too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 That's not D.E.... I withdraw my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterbear Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 Cartridge filters, btw, should not have DE added as a normal practice. It will crush/clog the filter elements. Scott Scott, I agree with you but Pentair does not when it comes to their Clean and Clear and Clean and Clear Plus lines. They recommend adding a small amount of DE to the cart on first use and after cart cleaning in their instruction manuals. (.5lb/100 sq ft for the clean and clear, .75lb/100 sq ft for the plus.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KimC Posted July 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 Hi boys, So we dont know what is causing the clogging or have any solutions for me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterbear Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 I will make an educated guess based on the test results, with a pH of 8.0 and a TA of 120 and no Calcium reading (which I suspect is high) I would guess it's scale deposit. FWIW, your too high TA and way too low CYA is what is contributing to your too high pH. Get the TA down to about 70 ppm and the CYA up to 80 ppm and your pH will not rise as fast and there will be less tendency to scale. We really need to know your Calcium Hardness history. The solution is to balance your water, test it on a regular basis (preferably yourself with a good test kit--Taylor K-2006), and keep it balanced. Your water is way out of balance for a salt pool and I find the fact that you did not have a calcium hardness reading disturbing. Take a bit of the white residue and put it in vinegar. Does it fizz and dissolve (or better yes, put a drop of dilutes muriactic acid on it and see if it fizzes. dilute 4 to 1). Please report back your findings and a complete set of test results (FC, CC, pH TA, CH and CYA). Finally, have you used any phosphate removers in your pool? (Although it does not look like Lanthanum Carbonate.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KimC Posted July 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 I feel so uneducated right now.... FWIW, your too high TA and way too low CYA is what is contributing to your too high pH. Get the TA down to about 70 ppm and the CYA up to 80 ppm and your pH will not rise as fast and there will be less tendency to scale. We really need to know your Calcium Hardness history. This statement is confusing to me. The water in AZ is very hard and I have drained my pool twice since it was built in 09. I am not sure how to get the TA down and the CYA up but would love to learn. The pool test companies tell me the water is too hard and suggest draining it but it is too hot right now. 110-114,degrees. I purchased a second cartridge and could pull off some of the chalky powder and lumps to test. What will that tell me? The problem is my home is not being rented and I know live over an hour away one way. I dont trust the pool services so I go and clean the filter/cartridge and salt cell once a month. Thank you for your expertise and your patience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoolGuyNJ Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 There are two ways to lower TA, Aeration (which also causes the pH to rise) and adding Muriatic acid (MA). With a salt cell, adding MA is better since cells cause the pH to rise anyway. CYA comes in powdered and liquid. Powdered is less expensive. Liquid, when left to sit too long, needs to be shaken vigorously, like a can of paint that has been sitting. I prefer the powdered. It dissolves slowly and can take about a week to show up in testing. I add the powdered CYA by placing it in a sock, tying a simple knot to close it, and dropping the closed off sock in the skimmer basket. It doesn't leave the water. Once its in, its in, just like salt or calcium hardness. Dilution is the only way to remove it in your area. AFAIK, there are no reverse osmosis services available Regardless of what Pentair's manual says, don't add DE to a cartridge filter. The filter elements are the same as Jandy, Hayward, or Waterway. Its not good for the elements. Here's the picture using photobucket's 4th option copy and pasted: That looks like soda ash, a powdered pH increaser. Weird. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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