Jump to content

Balboa EL2001 Mach 3 Board Information


Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have a Balboa EL2001 Mach 3 board that is immediately displaying an OHH flashing code. It has the same behavior whether topside is connected or disconnected. I have done some research and came to the conclusion it is more than likely a bad component on the board. I have done some testing and possibly found a bad diode but it has no markings for identification. I can't order replacements to repair without proper identification of the bad components. Does anyone have detailed schematics or information on these boards?

 

The diode at D7 seems to be bad but it has either gotten too hot and the markings are gone, or just faded.

 

IMG_0600.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, cranbiz said:

I see a heater relay that looks suspect. If the relay is shorted, that can easily cause an overheat situation.

Relays are around $15 each. I would test the 2 heater relays and replace them if bad.

I tested them and each tested okay. Are you talking about the black line on the heater relay? That is a shadow from the picture. From what I understand the heater relay being shorted won't immediately throw an OHH code immediately on bootup?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing I did notice is that even though it consistently blinks OHH, if I short the sensor leads on it displays SnA or SnB depending on which one I short. I checked each sensor and they are reading proper resistance based on water temperature. So it seems the logic is working to some extent for the sensor readings. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

D3 is a burnt diode for sure. If it had markings on it I could identify it's voltage at least for replacement. 

 

Edit:

 

Found markings after cleaning with ~pure Isoprop. D3 is a 13V Zenner Diode and D7 is a 10V Zenner Diode. I am going to go ahead and replace both. I will update if that fixes the problem.

 

 

IMG_0608.JPG

Edited by caldog20
Identified components
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok this sounds promising as I have a EL2000 M3 in my Maax 461 Hot Tub that also just got stuck on OHH. There doesn’t seem to be a reason for this code to not reset so I will look at my board in the above locations. 

I will report back my findings tonight

Thanks

Michael

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Michael H said:

I see the area on the board with D3 and D7 and provided the some better images below

IMG_3461.jpeg

IMG_3462.jpeg

I had to put an LED flashlight under the board to actually see how hot it got. From looking at D3 and the colorization, it looks like it got hot. Also the trace between D7 and R32 is darker, same as mine, probably due to overcurrent in that area. 

You can see on your board D7 has taken some damage. I am replacing D7 and D3 on my board. I also checked the 2 resistors that were darkened but they both checkout out at 150 ohms which matches their code. This area must have something to do with the sensor circuit for readings/comparisons between the sensors for checking for flow.


If you look on the back of the board in that area, you will probably see where D3 got really hot and made a square mark due to heat on the board. 

 

I have read this can be caused by a stuck heater relay, causing resistance in the temperature sensors to drastically reduce, which can cause overcurrent in the sensor circuit when the temperature stays too hot for too long. Might be a good idea to verify heater relays as well.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for posting this information as I now understand why my board stopped working correctly and that a board repair might be possible. 

I will do some testing of the board today if I get a chance to determine the faults  

I have also started to look at replacing the whole spa pack with a BP7 5.5kW and a TP700 which can then be connected to remote access with the wifi adaptor. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just wanted to report back with my results. I replaced 13V Zenner Diode D3 and 10V Zenner Diode D7, and the problem has been resolved. The board is working properly now, reporting proper temperatures, and toggling the heater on/off at set temperature. 

 

Thanks,

Caleb

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is great news and I wonder how I could repair mine. My neighbour is electronically handy so he might be able to help. How and where did you get the diodes so quickly?

I tested my diodes and D3 is gone and D7 partially so I could use your help to attempt my repair in Windsor, Ontario. 

Do you have a repair picture th share?

Thanks Michael

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Michael H said:

This is great news and I wonder how I could repair mine. My neighbour is electronically handy so he might be able to help. How and where did you get the diodes so quickly?

I tested my diodes and D3 is gone and D7 partially so I could use your help to attempt my repair in Windsor, Ontario. 

Do you have a repair picture th share?

Thanks Michael

When I get back home I can give you exact links from Digikey to order parts. As far as picture it really looks no different. Just unsoldered old diodes, cleaned pads, resoldered new diodes and done. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, Michael H said:

I did some searching but I’m not familiar with sites and the components being listed. If you can provide links then I’ll see if mouser.ca has them which I might be able to get on Monday

13V Zenner Diode - https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/diodes-incorporated/BZX84C13-7-F/775729

10V Zenner Diode - https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/good-ark-semiconductor/BZX84C10/18648842

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

Hi, I have this same issue on a GL2000 M3 board, immediately displays OHH on boot, then after 5min everything turns on full, pumps jets and blower! Had some intermittent OH problems before this, caused by the main pump motor stalling, sorted with a couple of new capacitors on the motor. temp probes measure the right resistance.

looking at the board it appears there are some similarities and some differences with the GL2000 vs the EL2000, I have found D3 and D7 but they are further apart on my board see photos below. Defiantly looks like some evidence of over heating on D7 but not sure about D3. D7 and D3 are both the Z9W diodes which is the 10v one I think. Also some evidence of heat at Z11 which is a circuit protection diode I believe.

 

IMG_2994.thumb.jpeg.4481046827ce9b30d2b30e4bb41eb5d0.jpeg

IMG_2993.thumb.jpeg.8fd9415f5627c824cc9287e9893af7d0.jpeg

 

IMG_2997.thumb.jpeg.4936ad2580100f1a051c49f14f295c0a.jpeg

 

I have ordered some replacements and I’ll let you know how I get on

@Michael H did the diodes fix your problem on the EL2001 board?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...