Need Help To Identitfy This Spa

[jtm311]

Ok another free spa story. Before I even drive to see this would anybody know the brand of this one?

Before all the jokes starts I have asked the owner who does not live there to tell me the make and model before he through out the renters. Well gues what he can't... long story not for here.

thanks guys.

John

[mrfixit]

The manufacturer may be identified on a rating plate attached on the inside of the equipment compartment, or on the base under the skirt outside the tub.

[jtm311]

The manufacturer may be identified on a rating plate attached on the inside of the equipment compartment, or on the base under the skirt outside the tub.

Thanks the problem is no one is at the house any longer and I have to drive a few hundred miles to see it.

But thanks anyway

[jtm311]

The manufacturer may be identified on a rating plate attached on the inside of the equipment compartment, or on the base under the skirt outside the tub.

Thanks the problem is no one is at the house any longer and I have to drive a few hundred miles to see it.

But thanks anyway

Thanks Guys got it. Jacuzzi Platinum Series don't know the year. Anyone know about these?

John

[ps558]

The manufacturer may be identified on a rating plate attached on the inside of the equipment compartment, or on the base under the skirt outside the tub.

Thanks the problem is no one is at the house any longer and I have to drive a few hundred miles to see it.

But thanks anyway

Thanks Guys got it. Jacuzzi Platinum Series don't know the year. Anyone know about these?

John

There are a few of them in my area. people that have them seem to enjoy them. There are your basic hot tub, simple controls parts are readily available.

[lkneisler]

Thanks Guys got it. Jacuzzi Platinum Series don't know the year. Anyone know about these?

John

What would you like to know? Are you moving / buying it? Need to fix it? ...??

[jtm311]

Thanks Guys got it. Jacuzzi Platinum Series don't know the year. Anyone know about these?

John

What would you like to know? Are you moving / buying it? Need to fix it? ...??

Thanks I'm picking it up on next week for free the tub looks very clean but the skirt needs help. I understand it has a leak, But PS558 answered what I need it seems parts are easy to get. I would like to give it some upgrade but for now lets see what is needed to get it running

John

[lkneisler]

Thanks I'm picking it up on next week for free the tub looks very clean but the skirt needs help. I understand it has a leak, But PS558 answered what I need it seems parts are easy to get. I would like to give it some upgrade but for now lets see what is needed to get it running

John

Ah, gotcha! Leaks are never good though If turns out to be a plumbing leak try Fix-A-Leak, white bottle w/ blue label. That stuff is like GOLD!

And the cabinet doesn't look that bad. Nothing some sanding and Superdeck can't fix

I hope it all works out well!

[jtm311]

Where is the best place to buy Jacuzzi parts from? The tub is a Santina plus.

Thanks,

John

[shovelhd]

Where is the best place to buy Jacuzzi parts from? The tub is a Santina plus.

Thanks,

John

I don't know who is the "best". I get my Jacuzzi parts from here.

[hottublady]

Ok another free spa story. Before I even drive to see this would anybody know the brand of this one?

Before all the jokes starts I have asked the owner who does not live there to tell me the make and model before he through out the renters. Well gues what he can't... long story not for here.

thanks guys.

John

Not a bad looking tub for FREE... If you put a bit of elbo-grease into it, I bet it would look really nice=)

[jtm311]

Cleaned her up not bad I still will replace the skirt.

replaced the brocken pipe and filled her up to test the unit.

good thing is only one small leak from one of the air connection.

Bad news is the skimmer pump and wet end is shot. Looks like the wet end seal

went and rotted the shaft. So new pump and wet end other then that some new pillows

and she will be ready to go.

How do you tell if the ozonator is working?

Thanks

John

[hottublady]

Cleaned her up not bad I still will replace the skirt.

replaced the brocken pipe and filled her up to test the unit.

good thing is only one small leak from one of the air connection.

Bad news is the skimmer pump and wet end is shot. Looks like the wet end seal

went and rotted the shaft. So new pump and wet end other then that some new pillows

and she will be ready to go.

How do you tell if the ozonator is working?

Thanks

John

Buy an ozone test kit here: http://www.olympichottubestore.com/spaozdekit.html but I doubt it works, those things are ment to last about 1-6 years max from what I heard. I would buy a new one.

-hottublady

[jtm311]

Where is the best place to buy Jacuzzi parts from? The tub is a Santina plus.

Thanks,

John

I don't know who is the "best". I get my Jacuzzi parts from here.

Thank you best prices I have found so far..

Question any reason you can not change to another brand pump and wet end? I can not see why. I found a better motor and wet end same motor spec and pump just not what currently came in the top.

Thanks,

john

[Recoil Rob]

Been a Jacuzzi agent for about 25 years. I think what you mean too say is the filter motor shaft has corroded because the pump seal leaked. Pretty common on tubs. I don't have my manuals with me but I believe the Santina used Jacuzzi's J pumps which are black and rebuildable. The older pumps were white and one piece

You can rebuild the pump by getting a new seal and impeller but the motor will have to be replaced. You can get motors anywhere the price is good, it doesn't need to be the same make as long as the ratings and frame are the same.

I'm not a big fan of replacing ozonators, you can by a lot of bromine for what a replacement ozonator costs. New owners think having an ozonator gives them license to ignore water chemistry, the only thing they do is cut down on bromine usage.

Cleaned her up not bad I still will replace the skirt.

replaced the brocken pipe and filled her up to test the unit.

good thing is only one small leak from one of the air connection.

Bad news is the skimmer pump and wet end is shot. Looks like the wet end seal

went and rotted the shaft. So new pump and wet end other then that some new pillows

and she will be ready to go.

How do you tell if the ozonator is working?

Thanks

John

[jtm311]

Rob you hit the nail on the head. That is what I would say happen to the pump. Why even mess with a new J pump I can buy the whole setup for less. I would have to change the conncetion to the pump from j to like a k style but that is an easy fix.

I'm I correct in my thinking. Rob would you know if on the circut board I see a jump for the Ozonator is off, should this be on to make it work?

Thanks,

John

[been a Jacuzzi agent for about 25 years. I think what you mean too say is the filter motor shaft has corroded because the pump seal leaked. Pretty common on tubs. I don't have my manuals with me but I believe the Santina used Jacuzzi's J pumps which are black and rebuildable. The older pumps were white and one piece

You can rebuild the pump by getting a new seal and impeller but the motor will have to be replaced. You can get motors anywhere the price is good, it doesn't need to be the same make as long as the ratings and frame are the same.

I'm not a big fan of replacing ozonators, you can by a lot of bromine for what a replacement ozonator costs. New owners think having an ozonator gives them license to ignore water chemistry, the only thing they do is cut down on bromine usage.

Cleaned her up not bad I still will replace the skirt.

replaced the brocken pipe and filled her up to test the unit.

good thing is only one small leak from one of the air connection.

Bad news is the skimmer pump and wet end is shot. Looks like the wet end seal

went and rotted the shaft. So new pump and wet end other then that some new pillows

and she will be ready to go.

How do you tell if the ozonator is working?

Thanks

John

[n1oty]

One very solid reason for staying WITH the J-Pump is that the matching curved surfaces inside the union body allow a fair amount of flexibility on motor/pump positioning. Most other pumps do NOT have curved surfaces. As such, the plumbing must be precisely aligned for a leak-free fit. If the original factory plumbing does not mate perfectly, you may have to redo some of the plumbing in order to utilize a pump from the Aqua-flo, Waterway or Vico lines.

Personally, I'd suggest spending a bit extra and staying with the J-Pump.

Also, be aware that some of the Santina Plus models utilized a low flow circ pump, specifically the old Tiny Might circ pump. Jacuzzi had a lot of problems with proper flow rates and switched to a more robust circ pump.

John

[jtm311]

One very solid reason for staying WITH the J-Pump is that the matching curved surfaces inside the union body allow a fair amount of flexibility on motor/pump positioning. Most other pumps do NOT have curved surfaces. As such, the plumbing must be precisely aligned for a leak-free fit. If the original factory plumbing does not mate perfectly, you may have to redo some of the plumbing in order to utilize a pump from the Aqua-flo, Waterway or Vico lines.

Personally, I'd suggest spending a bit extra and staying with the J-Pump.

Also, be aware that some of the Santina Plus models utilized a low flow circ pump, specifically the old Tiny Might circ pump. Jacuzzi had a lot of problems with proper flow rates and switched to a more robust circ pump.

John

Thank You for that, I do like the J pump ends, However, the price for their set up is crazy $$. I found a good motor pump comp which is 1.5HP as they used some times in these tubs. The old one I pulled is 1HP. Other then that the spec on pump and motor are the same as the old unit.

John

[jtm311]

One very solid reason for staying WITH the J-Pump is that the matching curved surfaces inside the union body allow a fair amount of flexibility on motor/pump positioning. Most other pumps do NOT have curved surfaces. As such, the plumbing must be precisely aligned for a leak-free fit. If the original factory plumbing does not mate perfectly, you may have to redo some of the plumbing in order to utilize a pump from the Aqua-flo, Waterway or Vico lines.

Personally, I'd suggest spending a bit extra and staying with the J-Pump.

Also, be aware that some of the Santina Plus models utilized a low flow circ pump, specifically the old Tiny Might circ pump. Jacuzzi had a lot of problems with proper flow rates and switched to a more robust circ pump.

John

Thank You for that, I do like the J pump ends, However, the price for their set up is crazy $$. I found a good motor pump comp which is 1.5HP as they used some times in these tubs. The old one I pulled is 1HP. Other then that the spec on pump and motor are the same as the old unit.

John

OK I replaced the pump with same unit ( J-pump) . I got her running today all works good no more leaks, Now for the question I ran it for about 15 min water temp stayed at 54 and never moved I think the heater is bad. Can you check the heater with a meter? Also, is the heater fused?

I see one 30 amp fuse on the board.

Thanks,

John

[lkneisler]

OK I replaced the pump with same unit ( J-pump) . I got her running today all works good no more leaks, Now for the question I ran it for about 15 min water temp stayed at 54 and never moved I think the heater is bad. Can you check the heater with a meter? Also, is the heater fused?

I see one 30 amp fuse on the board.

Thanks,

John

You can meter the heater leads to see if the heater is getting power (and the correct power) 220v I assume? so 110-115ish on each lead. If there's power going to the heater and it's not heating that should be all you need to know to replace it. But I'd give it more than 15 minutes! That water is cold.

You can use a meter with an ohm setting and check the continuity of that fuse. It could be for the heater, we can't see

[poptones]

That skirt looks really nice. Is it rotten? I bet if you hit it with a belt sander you'll find a gorgeous, weathered grain underneath. Spray it down with some thompson's and you're good to go.

[jtm311]

OK I replaced the pump with same unit ( J-pump) . I got her running today all works good no more leaks, Now for the question I ran it for about 15 min water temp stayed at 54 and never moved I think the heater is bad. Can you check the heater with a meter? Also, is the heater fused?

I see one 30 amp fuse on the board.

Thanks,

John

You can meter the heater leads to see if the heater is getting power (and the correct power) 220v I assume? so 110-115ish on each lead. If there's power going to the heater and it's not heating that should be all you need to know to replace it. But I'd give it more than 15 minutes! That water is cold.

You can use a meter with an ohm setting and check the continuity of that fuse. It could be for the heater, we can't see

Sorry the photo did not post. There is a large 25 amp fuse I thought this was for the heater. I guess I can also ohm out the heater, it is only a coil if it rings out it must be good, well I'm guess on that one.

Thanks for the reply.

John

[jtm311]

That skirt looks really nice. Is it rotten? I bet if you hit it with a belt sander you'll find a gorgeous, weathered grain underneath. Spray it down with some thompson's and you're good to go.

After pressure washing it, it looks better in the photo but it is missing some craked everywhere I bought some new wood to make a new one. I will post photos once it is done.

John

[lkneisler]

Sorry the photo did not post. There is a large 25 amp fuse I thought this was for the heater. I guess I can also ohm out the heater, it is only a coil if it rings out it must be good, well I'm guess on that one.

Thanks for the reply.

John

Actually, if you use and ohm meter on the heater element it will register something if it's good. And since I didn't know the details I looked them up!

"Turn off the power to the heater first and disconnect the two wires to the elements. Set the meter to the "OHM" function, and check the flow between the two screw connectors of the elements: If there is a positive reading, then the circuit is "closed" and the element is fine; if there is no reading, the circuit is "open" and a new element is needed. Also, if you get a reading on your meter between either of the screw connections and the metal element, the element is shorted and must be replaced.

You should expect an approximation of the following readings on the OHM meter (give or take a little) for functioning elements:

* 15.5 ohms for 3500 watts

* 13.0 ohms for 4500 watts

* 10.0 ohms for 5500 watts "

Is this plagiarism? I used quotes.

[jtm311]

Sorry the photo did not post. There is a large 25 amp fuse I thought this was for the heater. I guess I can also ohm out the heater, it is only a coil if it rings out it must be good, well I'm guess on that one.

Thanks for the reply.

John

Actually, if you use and ohm meter on the heater element it will register something if it's good. And since I didn't know the details I looked them up!

"Turn off the power to the heater first and disconnect the two wires to the elements. Set the meter to the "OHM" function, and check the flow between the two screw connectors of the elements: If there is a positive reading, then the circuit is "closed" and the element is fine; if there is no reading, the circuit is "open" and a new element is needed. Also, if you get a reading on your meter between either of the screw connections and the metal element, the element is shorted and must be replaced.

You should expect an approximation of the following readings on the OHM meter (give or take a little) for functioning elements:

* 15.5 ohms for 3500 watts

* 13.0 ohms for 4500 watts

* 10.0 ohms for 5500 watts "

Is this plagiarism? I used quotes.

Ok here is what I tested. Ran the spa for 1.5 hours Heat went from 57 to 59 (no Heat) tested during running at both screws I have 10.5 with the meter set to 200 ohms. Also with the leads of the heated I also read 10.5.

The heater relay stayed on the so I know it was calling for heat. No error codes Hi limit relays never kicked in.

Could it just be the heat is still bad, or just caked with stuff? Should I read 230V any where for the heater?

Thanks for the help, what next. I guess I could pick up a new coil and try that.

John