jtm311

You are quite the trooper! Good job and I hope you get to enjoy your spa for a long, long time!! Nice job. One question though, is that pressure treated lumber for the deck? Looks like untreated lumber in the pictures. Yes it is Home Depot best John

Most of the money went to the deck and eletric hook which I did on my own. I did buy a new cover which I got off ebay custom made to fit mine very happy with it and it only was $300 in the end it does take about 3 weeks for the whole process. We have been using the heck out of the spa and love it. John

You are quite the trooper! Good job and I hope you get to enjoy your spa for a long, long time!! Ok all new dials, pillows need a little more stain and all done John

Installed the new spa pack all worked out great she is up and running so with all new parts a deck and running the power I have a good spa for about a $1000 .. I will take a photo with the finished skirts tomorrow. Just waiting on the new cover Thanks for the help John

Yeah, with the sensors you get resistance readings, not open or closed continuity sort of readings - and even then it doesn't work so great cos the wires/connectors are so tiny. Did you call someone out or order a new board? No one ever wants to tell you to get a new board. Probably cos their expensive and it's hard to suggest doing it. I cheaped out big time on a control board and switched two components around instead of replacing the board. But shoot - A new board costs $300 with tax and shipping! There are some DIY people who will suggest replacing a relay (or something) instead of the board. I don't know enough about those kind of details. I hope whatever you choose to do works out right for you! Lori Ok I tested the board till I was blue today. No 5v at the relays so I said the hell with it and called a service guy, he wanted $125 an hour. So I looked for a board replacement on-line best price was $350 and shipping. So I said the hell with it again I ordered a spa pack from United spas $379 and free shipping. Now I know it will all work when I get it. I will post a before and after shot on Tuesday when it gets to me. spa pack Thanks John

My local spa shop had the correct Hi=limit sensor so I replaced it. Guess what, nothing changed same problem! So I'm at a loss it may be time to call in a tec or order a new board. Can anyone confirm that the Hi- limit sensor when tested with a meter should be closed? The new tested out as "open" as does the old one. John

Ok here is an update. I was able to test the pressure switch it works. Also, I jumped out the other two relays so I could get the 240v to the heater. I ran it that way for 1/2 it went up 5 deg. (not sure if that is good 5.5k) From what I have read there is no way to test the hi-limit switch,true? I do not think it is a temp switch because I'm getting the digital read out on the top panel. So I can only think that it must be the Hi-limit switch, would anyone add to this? No erro codes on the top panel.

What does the heater look like? You mentioned "heater housing". Is there a part online where you can post a URL, or can you post a photo? $200 seems high, especially if it's just a sensor. The hi-limit might also be a little disc looking thing. Here is my replacment heater I should have said it also includes a pressure switch and high limit switch.

I'm not good with the relay thing. Maybe someone else might be able to help here. Is there a red button sticking out anywhere (that would be your hi-limit sensor)? If the hi-limit trips (pops out) then it has to be pushed back in to reset it, otherwise no heat. If it hasn't tripped; popped out, then I have no clue why a hi-limit related relay would not engage. I looked for that I don't think I have that type of Hi-limit. I think it is in the heater housing. Anyone? Maybe for the $200 I replace the heater with the pressure and Hi-limit. John

Ok no power at the heater. I found the following the heater relay is pulled in however the Hi-limit relay top and bottom are not pulled in. If I manual pull both in I get the 240v at the heater. So is my next step one of the sensors? Thanks, John

Sure! Lets say you have two heater leads/wires. One is red and the other is black. Metering both heater leads should give you 220-240volts; touch the end of one meter probe to one hot [red] and the other meter probe to the other hot [black] and you'll get 220 to 240 volts. For a universal type heater element, I always meter where the wires connect to the heater element. Metering ground and one lead should give you 110-120volts. Put one meter probe on ground and the other probe on red, you should get 110-120v. Put one meter probe on ground and the other probe on black, you should get 110-120v. Let me know what you find and we can go from there Great I will give it a try tomorrow. I thought that is correct. I will let you know. Thanks, John

Right, when you use a voltage meter on the two heater leads you should get 230 volts. Again, if you ARE getting proper power to the heater and the spa is NOT heating then replace your element. I never use an amp meter cos I'm too cheap to buy one - the average inexpensive voltage meter I come across only reads up to 10 amps but I supposed you could check the amps too if you want to be 100% thorough. I don't know what the amps are supposed to be.) If you are NOT getting proper power to the heater element then something else is wrong and you have to nail that down first. Could you give me a little more details on how you are testing for the 230V? Are you just testing the black on a common ground and the hot ( red) lead to one of the heater leads? or are you just testing across both heater leads for 230v Thanks again for all the help. John

Actually, if you use and ohm meter on the heater element it will register something if it's good. And since I didn't know the details I looked them up! "Turn off the power to the heater first and disconnect the two wires to the elements. Set the meter to the "OHM" function, and check the flow between the two screw connectors of the elements: If there is a positive reading, then the circuit is "closed" and the element is fine; if there is no reading, the circuit is "open" and a new element is needed. Also, if you get a reading on your meter between either of the screw connections and the metal element, the element is shorted and must be replaced. You should expect an approximation of the following readings on the OHM meter (give or take a little) for functioning elements: * 15.5 ohms for 3500 watts * 13.0 ohms for 4500 watts * 10.0 ohms for 5500 watts " Is this plagiarism? I used quotes. Ok here is what I tested. Ran the spa for 1.5 hours Heat went from 57 to 59 (no Heat) tested during running at both screws I have 10.5 with the meter set to 200 ohms. Also with the leads of the heated I also read 10.5. The heater relay stayed on the so I know it was calling for heat. No error codes Hi limit relays never kicked in. Could it just be the heat is still bad, or just caked with stuff? Should I read 230V any where for the heater? Thanks for the help, what next. I guess I could pick up a new coil and try that. John

After pressure washing it, it looks better in the photo but it is missing some craked everywhere I bought some new wood to make a new one. I will post photos once it is done. John

You can meter the heater leads to see if the heater is getting power (and the correct power) 220v I assume? so 110-115ish on each lead. If there's power going to the heater and it's not heating that should be all you need to know to replace it. But I'd give it more than 15 minutes! That water is cold. You can use a meter with an ohm setting and check the continuity of that fuse. It could be for the heater, we can't see Sorry the photo did not post. There is a large 25 amp fuse I thought this was for the heater. I guess I can also ohm out the heater, it is only a coil if it rings out it must be good, well I'm guess on that one. Thanks for the reply. John