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You don't want to replace the wet end unless it's absolutely necessary. It matches up with the existing plumbing on your spa. That's all that matters, really; that the wet end matches up with your plumbing. And on a Jacuzzi that may not be so easy to do. It also needs to match up with the hp of your motor, obviously. Jacuzzi is very proprietary. There is one guy that posts on here sometimes who knows about the finer details. Maybe He'll pitch in to help if you've really got your heart set on replacing things. What's your primary objective here; saving money, having a project, reducing your spa downtime... ?

Well... the heater reset had in fact tripped. Meanwhile the 30 amp breaker had tripped again also. I shut off both breakers and reset the heater (pushed in the reset button). Flipped on the 20 then flipped on the 30. So far so good. But then I hear this popping noise. It takes a few seconds from the time I turn on the 30 amp breaker til I hear the popping, and the popping persists a second or two after I shut off the 30 amp breaker. So I'm thinking it's water and overheating - BUT the circ. pump is running fine, there's water flow and bubbles... can the heater still be getting low or no water flow? Now I'm really stumped. Oh, and the continuity - I pulled the heater leads off and didn't get a zero, but it stays around 1. I thought it should be like 10 or 12. But then I didn't unscrew the ground wire - does that matter? I was anxious to leave cos the owners were understandably upset. Lori After some reading and a few phone calls... I'm gong to vote that the electrician didn't know what he was doing - tried to figure out why the 30 amp breaker wouldn't stay set - and somehow dry fired the heater.

Good suggestion - I'll check Yes, perfectly I didn't think it had one! I hope that's what it is. The voltage was good - I didn't know the spa wasn't heating til the next day, so I didn't check for no continuity. Yep. Did that. The circ pump was on and pushing water & bubbles just fine. Thank you guys for the help and suggestions! I'll keep my fingers crossed that it's just a reset button. I'm supposed to go back there in the morning. Lori

What Roger said is easiest; pull the pump and take it to a motor shop that works on pool and spa equipment. What you're looking for is one of these guys: http://www.aquasuperstore.com/SearchResult...?CategoryID=108 You'd have to take your motor out, take off the front of the wet end (pump), try to get the impeller off - 1/2 of the time the impeller breaks - unscrew the 4 really long bolts that holds the pump onto the motor, then replace the seal, and put it all back together again. I hope this helps!

If you have power going to the motors and the motors aren't working, AND the wires are not fried, I'd say you can safely assume the motors need to be serviced or replaced. If you're a do-it-yourselfer, call your pool and spa guys and see if they can recommend a good motor service shop. If there is no water flow, then you're going to get a flow error. Do you have power going to your spa light? Stereo? Check for blown fuses? - there's a diverter/converter/black box thing for the stereo that has a fuse you can check. Otherwise, unfortunately, the board could be toast. And it could even be in addition to, or unrelated to, the towel indecent; like a power surge or lightning.

We buy the spray on dip. It's a plastic coating for your tool handles. You can buy it at a hardware store, usually in black. Look where the regular spray paint is sold. Dry out the pillows and spray on the dip. One good coat is enough. Let them dry for a day or two (depends on the weather) and they'll look like brand new! If your spa cover rubs on the tops of the pillows it probably won't last long, otherwise we've had ours for over a year and they still look perfect. We also moved a spa we sold a while ago and had spray dipped the pillows - they still looked perfect as well. Hope this helps!

HL sounds like a high limit error - where your spa thinks it's 118 or so degrees. If the water is moving like it should, isn't too hot, and you get the error, then replace the high limit sensor.

Good morning! I just looked at a 230 volt install of a used hot spring sovereign, 1997. The 30 amp breaker wouldn't set; it tripped immediately. The electrician put the ground wire from the disconnect box under a screw that was directly under the ground wire connection for the heater instead of in the #7 position as shown in the wiring diagram on the control box lid. Would that miswire cause damage to the heater? The spa heat perfectly at the last house, but now it's not heating at the new house. The breaker stays set, the heat LED is on, there is correct power going to the heater leads. Thanks! Lori

Thank you Dan.The.Spa.Man! I broke it It must be really stuck cos I couldn't get it to budge at all. It did twist right off in my hand too! So now the end is stuck in there. I'll try some vice grips or something creative. Thanks again! Lori

After disconnecting the little air tube, how do you get the jet off/out? I thought it was supposed to be "so easy".

I'm not a patient person so with the filter still out I'd run the jets on high to make sure there's no 'crap' in the lines then shut off the breaker and turn it back on.

You are quite the trooper! Good job and I hope you get to enjoy your spa for a long, long time!!

If the heat light isn't going on then the spa is not calling for heat. That could be a flow error usually cause by dirty filters or the flow switch needing to be adjusted or replaced. Of if you have a circulation pump it might not be working, but I don't think Cal Spa uses circ pumps. Pull your filter(s) and run your spa for a little while to see if that resolves the problem; where you'll see the heat light on. If you still have no heat light and no heat then you need to identify where the flow switch is and check to see if it has continuity when the pump is running on low speed. Let me know if you need help with this.

Your spa may be "ozone ready" where there is a clear tube to connect to using a check valve. Sometimes it's obvious, sometimes it's mostly buried in the sprayed on insulation/foam. In any case, it would be in the equipment area near the access panel. If it's not ozone ready then this might help: http://www.hottubessentials.com/installing_ozonators.htm It's a little over-complicated but it has diagrams and examples and we're told it's useful.

Is your heat indicator light on - on the top side control panel?

PM me please Hello Roger, got the same problem and discovered my warranty has just elapsed. Any recommendations on where I could procure a replacement control panel at a decent price? If I can't get something wholesale, I mostly go to these guys. Very knowledgeable and really good prices. http://actionsparepair.com/control-panels8.html

It's like hemoglobin Excellent product, by the way. Nice choice. I hope it works for your particular leak!

I forgot... does your spa have the big giant plug thing for the power, that looks like a dryer plug? I guess checking the power would be a little bit different in that case, and if you don't feel confident then do call the electrician! I would shut off the power, pull the plug out just enough to get the meter probes on there, turn the power back on then start checking the different plug ends to see which is hot and which is ground or neutral... just be careful.

Hi Tony. If your motor is craping out, yes, I'm so technical, then you can get it fixed as opposed to replaced, IF you can find a good motor repair shop that is familiar with pool and spa pumps. Using a volt meter you should check the power going in to the hot tub though. Just to be sure it's not something weird. You want to see at least 220 volts; 110 on ground and red, 110 on ground and black; 220 on red and black. If you're not getting proper power, then shut off the spa and call an electrician. If you are getting proper power, call your local pool and spa maintenance people, they should be able to give you some motor repair shop referrals. If you remove the spa panel on the side where the motor is (see your manual for a picture), then you'll see the motor, and the two unions attached to it, and how easy it looks to do this yourself Power off the spa of course, then unplug your pump from the control box. There are slice valves to shut off the water flow so you shouldn't have to drain your spa... unless it's going to freeze. Unscrew the two unions on the font and top and you're off and running. Have the motor fixed and pump seal replaced. Spend a lot less than buying a new pump/motor. Put it all back together, job done! You're a hero! [details] If the unions are too tight to turn by hand, I use an oil filter wrench to get the unions off, but then I'm a girly and not so strong. When my husband steals the filter wrench, I use a big flat head screw driver on one of the ridges and tap GENTLY with a hammer. They are supposed to be hand tight though. You could also check to make sure no critter has made a new home inside your spa and started chewing on things. Have you had your spa a while, I mean, where the motor would be going bad already? Is there still a warranty? Or did that bite the dust when Gulf Coast did? Maybe a manufacture's warranty on the motor? All they need is the label. You pay whatever difference there is on the pro rated warranty and poof, new motor shipped. Let us know what happens!

Yeah, with the sensors you get resistance readings, not open or closed continuity sort of readings - and even then it doesn't work so great cos the wires/connectors are so tiny. Did you call someone out or order a new board? No one ever wants to tell you to get a new board. Probably cos their expensive and it's hard to suggest doing it. I cheaped out big time on a control board and switched two components around instead of replacing the board. But shoot - A new board costs $300 with tax and shipping! There are some DIY people who will suggest replacing a relay (or something) instead of the board. I don't know enough about those kind of details. I hope whatever you choose to do works out right for you! Lori

Those are hot items! I usually get $125 on ebay when I have one. Right now I don't. I like to get parts here: http://www.spaandpoolsource.com/ they seems to have the best prices... plus free shipping on sundance parts. Good luck!

Congratulations on the new spa! Yes, you are absolutely correct about the modes and how it heats. Everyone pretty much has a different thought on temp settings and modes. It sound like it really depends on where you live; if it nice weather, or if it gets really cold in the winter. Most important is just trying the different modes and finding out what works best for you guys! For example, if you run your spa in economy mode, where it's only heating when it filters, then it is possible you could lose too much heat in between filter cycles and it just won't work out for you. Then again, you may not lose that much heat and it'll be fine. If you use the spa around the same time of the night/day, then program your filter cycles to be finished around the time you're going to use the spa. That way it's up to temp when you're ready to use it. Have fun!

Oh dear. Do you have the "ThinkPak" controls? No economy mode cos it's too smart for that? If so, then program it to filter only 1 hour a day. Your spa is going to be filtering plenty as it runs all day and night to keep the temperature at your set temp, and to check-in on itself periodically. However, you're not supposed to worry about the electrical bill cos when you spa is filtering, it's heating at 5.5 kw, when it's maintaining temp is 1.5kw. Now that's what I knew about it a year a half ago. It might have changed, but from what you're saying it doesn't sound like it. Mfg. testing showed it's the most energy efficient thing on the market, but their test environment was in climate controlled building I'm sure. Me, cynical? Not at all Please let me know what you find in your manual, I'm very interest. Thanks! Lori

See if your spa has an economy mode, where it only heats when it's filtering. Look at the top side control panel functions in your owner's manual.

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