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AMG

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About AMG

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    Spa Savant
  1. What about buying a piece of hard wood that is like 3 feet long, and like 2" square (or whatever exact size it is) so that it fills that gap under the siding. Sits flush against the black bottom wood part. Then I screw in to that. Then I will have the ability to screw in to that on the bottom 2, and the top 2 would go in the siding, but the bottom 2 would probably provide good strength. Maybe just using tapcon's to go in to the concreate is fine. I've used those before. Thats what I would do as it'll be quick, simple and should be effective. Perfect. I bought a pressure treated 4
  2. What about buying a piece of hard wood that is like 3 feet long, and like 2" square (or whatever exact size it is) so that it fills that gap under the siding. Sits flush against the black bottom wood part. Then I screw in to that. Then I will have the ability to screw in to that on the bottom 2, and the top 2 would go in the siding, but the bottom 2 would probably provide good strength. Maybe just using tapcon's to go in to the concreate is fine. I've used those before.
  3. I read through the instructions and it seems all pretty easy, except for mounting the brackets to the base of the spa. As you can see from the photos, the brackets are too tall to fit in to where the gap is for the base of the spa. I would think I have a few options, some probably are wrong, maybe you have others? Anyone have experience installing this in this situation? 1. Turn the bracket down and screw it in to my concrete. I don't like the idea of mounting to the concrete. I will if I have to. I'd need to go to the HD and pick up some concrete anchors though and a new bit to drill i
  4. First let me start off by saying that I have found the forums on poolspaforum.com to be extremely helpful when I was resolving issues with my Hot Springs Grandee spa. I haven't really posted on here for my pool, but I am hoping that you pool guys are as awesome to assist us folks with less knowledge as the guys in the spa section were. Thank you in advance for your assistance! Also, I am located in San Diego, CA My house had a pool installed in 1997 by the original owners. I bought the house a few years ago. The pump, filter, cleaner, etc. are all original. I want to get your expert opin
  5. I can say that on my 95 grandee, which has the new "No Fault" heater installed on it, if I fill the tub and the water's in the 60-70's and I run the heater, put my hand solidly over the second metal tube of the heater, I can feel it is warm and after a few seconds if I am making good contact with it, it might even begin to be too hot to touch. I was curious when I wired it up, so I used my volt meter which can measure amperage draw and separated the wires and saw that it was sucking [x] amps when on and 0 when off, so I knew it was working. It is a piece of cake to test if you have the right
  6. I think I am clear on the concept. Of course this is not to scale at all, but the area shown where the bubbles are up, you have direct surface (outside air) to solid plastic, to water. It prevents evaporation but there is no insulation similar to a double pane window. With the bubbles down, the idea is that the bubbles float the top solid plastic sheet so not only do I get the double pane window style insulation in the bubbles but in between the bubbles there is air in that channel, so really the whole thing is providing that. So I lose a little bit, oh well BUBBLE SIDE UP (incorrect, but
  7. Not a problem. If it was infective, it's lifespan would be 1 day as I throw it away. If I get 1 season I'm fine with it. Thank you.
  8. Thank you both so much. I appreciate it. The pool was 68 when I covered it, and it's supposed to warm up this next week. We'll see if this thing works
  9. Okay, stupid me. My pool is not symmetrical so I cannot flip it. I installed with the bubbles up. How much difference do you think it really makes? If it is just a little less effective, I'll leave it. If it is basically not effective, I'll trash it and buy another $129 cover. There is no reason to keep it on there if it is useless to me, but if its 80% as effective or whatnot, I'll leave it. I remember seeing chemgeek post a while back, if he reads this, I'd love his input too
  10. Thanks, it seemed like it. My little cracks are at the top near the coping stone, so the water should ideally never get there anyhow. My plaster and such is 13 years old, it looks good as i acid washed and saned (150 grit 7" orbital) the whole thing this spring, but I know it's going to be due for major work in 5 or so years. I'm just going to use this stuff since I already have it and close up those tiny little cracks. It makes me feel good knowing they arent open, even though water only gets there during plashing around in the pool, and i still have yet to see any leaks outside , etc.
  11. I used the EZ patch white plaster mix to repair a small crack I had in the plaster. I see some small cracks and little chunks of tile grout missing above the water line. Right where it butts up against the coping stone. The color of the tile grout looks to be identical in color and texture (heck it may be the same) as the pool plaster. Can I just mix up some of the EZ Patch that I have for pool plaster repair and push it in to these little missing areas and cracks and make it sealed again? Or do I need to buy the EZ patch that says for tile grout? Is there REALLY a difference that I care
  12. I believe the issue is resolved, but I didn't have time to watch it this morning. The lid on the pump wasnt on really tight, but I took it off and cleaned the o-ring and re-tightened it down. It seems okay now. I'll update tonight when I get home if there is still a concern. EDIT: When I said "clean the o-ring" I meant, cleaned it off, cleaned the lid, cleaned the spot in the pump where the threads meet, etc. Then re-lube the o-ring with silicon magic lube.
  13. I don't remember exactly. I know I have gone in there since it had air in it. Tomorrow morning I will stop the pump, take it off, clean the o-ring, lube the o-ring, re-install it and re-tighten the lid. Not sure what the second part is about the 1/4 plug screwed into the bottom of the pump basket? The basket is a blue and goes in only one way. I take it out periodically to clean the stuff that the cleaner gets. It is a hayword, it's just 13 years old though, so not as updated as the one in the pic. I showed that photo just for reference as it is the same style (maybe ALL pumps are, I
  14. I am not the original owner and have only owned my home/pool since last September. I have cleaned the filter a few times, lubed o-rings, replaced tiny parts that have broken, but that is all. The pool and pump are from 1997 time. It is a Hayword pump. The pool is an in-ground gunite pool in San Diego, CA, of about 15,000 gallons. I have a System 3 (I think the name is) filter, a chlorinator, and the hayword pump. This problem just started last week and I don't know what the causes could be (I can guess, but I don't want to). When I turn the pump on, the wet-end of the pump is full of ai
  15. I need some parts that should only cost a few bucks each. I went to Home Depot and of course they didn't sell these exact plastic pieces, but similar items were only $2-$4 so I don't see that paying these prices online of $20-$30 a piece seems fair. Does anyone know where I can find these parts for cheaper? Here is a good page that I see has all the parts listed clearly. http://www.inyopools.com/pool_parts_slides_parts.aspx I need parts #C and #E
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