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AMG

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About AMG

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    Spa Savant
  1. What about buying a piece of hard wood that is like 3 feet long, and like 2" square (or whatever exact size it is) so that it fills that gap under the siding. Sits flush against the black bottom wood part. Then I screw in to that. Then I will have the ability to screw in to that on the bottom 2, and the top 2 would go in the siding, but the bottom 2 would probably provide good strength. Maybe just using tapcon's to go in to the concreate is fine. I've used those before. Thats what I would do as it'll be quick, simple and should be effective. Perfect. I bought a pressure treated 4x4 and used my table saw to rip it to the desired thickness (like 2 1/8" by 2" x 3') and then screwed it in. strong as can be and gave me a good solid point to mount to. the Ez-Lifter works great.
  2. What about buying a piece of hard wood that is like 3 feet long, and like 2" square (or whatever exact size it is) so that it fills that gap under the siding. Sits flush against the black bottom wood part. Then I screw in to that. Then I will have the ability to screw in to that on the bottom 2, and the top 2 would go in the siding, but the bottom 2 would probably provide good strength. Maybe just using tapcon's to go in to the concreate is fine. I've used those before.
  3. I read through the instructions and it seems all pretty easy, except for mounting the brackets to the base of the spa. As you can see from the photos, the brackets are too tall to fit in to where the gap is for the base of the spa. I would think I have a few options, some probably are wrong, maybe you have others? Anyone have experience installing this in this situation? 1. Turn the bracket down and screw it in to my concrete. I don't like the idea of mounting to the concrete. I will if I have to. I'd need to go to the HD and pick up some concrete anchors though and a new bit to drill in. 2. Buy a piece of wood that is very hard and strong, and cut it so that it extends that section out and allows me to have a flush mounting point to secure the brackets to. This seems logical. I think the wood base of the spa is actually beginning to rot a bit too, so if I cut a long piece, I could potentially put some wood glue on one side, screw it in a handful of times. This might give me even more support for the brackets as the length of the new piece disperses the load 3. Screw to the siding. This is probably not very strong, but I dont know. I banged on the siding with my fist and I feel areas that seem very solid, there is probably some structural beams behind. 4. Return this and buy something else. This is a PITA. I already opened the box, I've tried assembling some, i have some scratches on the metal where the tubes go together. It's not "BNIB" anymore. Besides, something else would probably cost me more money and i'd have to wait, and pay shipping back, etc. Ugh!
  4. First let me start off by saying that I have found the forums on poolspaforum.com to be extremely helpful when I was resolving issues with my Hot Springs Grandee spa. I haven't really posted on here for my pool, but I am hoping that you pool guys are as awesome to assist us folks with less knowledge as the guys in the spa section were. Thank you in advance for your assistance! Also, I am located in San Diego, CA My house had a pool installed in 1997 by the original owners. I bought the house a few years ago. The pump, filter, cleaner, etc. are all original. I want to get your expert opinion on replacing the equipment with current products. I hope to not only 1) cut my electric operating costs (with a variable speed pump), but also provide much better filtration (filter) and cleaning (cleaner). My pool is approximately 15k gallons. The current (original) filter is a Sta Rite "System:3" says 450sqft 50psi. The pump, I am not sure who makes it (guessing AO Smith or maybe re-branded Sta Rite?) but it says on the motor side "K48L2PA105" which seems to be a 1.0 or 1.5HP. My cleaner is an original Kreepy Krauler. I was thinking I wanted to go either one of two routes, but I would ask your advice. * All prices I list below are what I found from online retailers. Maybe there are better prices, but I haven't checked hardcore until I know exactly what to get. This is my total amount to have it delivered to my door. Option #1 PUMP: Harward Ecostar SP3400VSP $890.00 FILTER: Hayward Pro Grid DE4820 Filter $579.00 CLEANER: Zodiac MX8 $352.00 Option #2 PUMP: Pentair Intelliflo VS-3050 $885 FILTER: I am not sure. Pentair sells so many DE models! HELP! CLEANER: Zodiac MX8 $352.00 Option #3 Some other recommendation you may all have? Salt Water Generating System I have no real knowledge on what is required when buying these and installing these. Some are sold with just the cell, some with a lot more. I expect I need some computer system to control it. But if there is one system that you use to control the pump, maybe its redundant and controls the SWG? What do you recommend? Other things to note -I have no heater and no spa. Just the pool. -I would like to in the next 2-3 years inquire about getting the solar heating equipment that would go on my roof (pump should be strong enough to push up there in the future), but it is not on my short-term agenda. -Skimmer run = 16', Return Lines = 3, 1 skimmer, 2 drains in the deep end, one cleaner port. Concerns: 1. Am I picking the right sized filter (48sqft)? 2. Do these pumps come with everything needed (electrical timer box to operate, etc.)? 3. What about backwash valves? I saw in a store that Hayward had some pretty high tech model that had lots of adjustments. I'd like to be able to drain my pool (when it rains) without having to backwash the filter. 4. What about other valves for redirecting flow from Pool Cleaner vs Skimmer? I currently have some "Jandy" style. I expect I will want new ones. 5. The pads that are in place are not level anymore. The one that the pump was on appears to have sunk a lot and only the back is supporting the pump, along with the PVC. The one for the filter is not level, but the filter is still on it. I expect that we can re-use those, by simply taking them out, tamping the soil level and then placing the pads back down. You all know best. 6. If I went with a SWG I would think I wouldnt need a chlorinator. Still, I dont think I NEED it now. I typically use liquid chlorine from the store and just add stabilizer as needed (usually initially on fill). If I went on vacation for 2 weeks I have used my chlorinator with a low setting. But I can buy a floating chlorinator too, or have a neighbor check on it. With a SWG though I would expect I can lose this? 7. If I choose to bid this out to qualified installers what do you expect the average charge to be? If you asked me to guess I would say it should be a 1 day gig and $400 sounds right? Installation Thoughts It seems that buying the products online is going to get me a serious discount over buying from a B&M store. I thought I would go on Craigslist and find one of the many Pool people, see what each of them would charge to install all the equipment, check some references for them and then pick one of these guys to do the work. I expect all the regular PVC pipe, elbows, etc. they will charge me for in my installation, but I would ideally (and please chime in if you have thoughts) want to have the vast majority (if not all) of the major expensive parts already ordered and staged ready to go. fun time acid washing a couple years ago
  5. I can say that on my 95 grandee, which has the new "No Fault" heater installed on it, if I fill the tub and the water's in the 60-70's and I run the heater, put my hand solidly over the second metal tube of the heater, I can feel it is warm and after a few seconds if I am making good contact with it, it might even begin to be too hot to touch. I was curious when I wired it up, so I used my volt meter which can measure amperage draw and separated the wires and saw that it was sucking [x] amps when on and 0 when off, so I knew it was working. It is a piece of cake to test if you have the right meter, you do it with the shielding on the wires, but you separate the green/white/black and test them individually (not packed together, it negates it).
  6. I think I am clear on the concept. Of course this is not to scale at all, but the area shown where the bubbles are up, you have direct surface (outside air) to solid plastic, to water. It prevents evaporation but there is no insulation similar to a double pane window. With the bubbles down, the idea is that the bubbles float the top solid plastic sheet so not only do I get the double pane window style insulation in the bubbles but in between the bubbles there is air in that channel, so really the whole thing is providing that. So I lose a little bit, oh well BUBBLE SIDE UP (incorrect, but still effective to some large degree) BUBBLE SIDE DOWN (most correct)
  7. Not a problem. If it was infective, it's lifespan would be 1 day as I throw it away. If I get 1 season I'm fine with it. Thank you.
  8. Thank you both so much. I appreciate it. The pool was 68 when I covered it, and it's supposed to warm up this next week. We'll see if this thing works
  9. Okay, stupid me. My pool is not symmetrical so I cannot flip it. I installed with the bubbles up. How much difference do you think it really makes? If it is just a little less effective, I'll leave it. If it is basically not effective, I'll trash it and buy another $129 cover. There is no reason to keep it on there if it is useless to me, but if its 80% as effective or whatnot, I'll leave it. I remember seeing chemgeek post a while back, if he reads this, I'd love his input too
  10. Thanks, it seemed like it. My little cracks are at the top near the coping stone, so the water should ideally never get there anyhow. My plaster and such is 13 years old, it looks good as i acid washed and saned (150 grit 7" orbital) the whole thing this spring, but I know it's going to be due for major work in 5 or so years. I'm just going to use this stuff since I already have it and close up those tiny little cracks. It makes me feel good knowing they arent open, even though water only gets there during plashing around in the pool, and i still have yet to see any leaks outside , etc.
  11. I used the EZ patch white plaster mix to repair a small crack I had in the plaster. I see some small cracks and little chunks of tile grout missing above the water line. Right where it butts up against the coping stone. The color of the tile grout looks to be identical in color and texture (heck it may be the same) as the pool plaster. Can I just mix up some of the EZ Patch that I have for pool plaster repair and push it in to these little missing areas and cracks and make it sealed again? Or do I need to buy the EZ patch that says for tile grout? Is there REALLY a difference that I care about? I am not re-grouting tile, just filling in some small cracks and areas smaller than a pea and cracks maybe an inch long but only 2mm wide, really small. Thoughts?
  12. I believe the issue is resolved, but I didn't have time to watch it this morning. The lid on the pump wasnt on really tight, but I took it off and cleaned the o-ring and re-tightened it down. It seems okay now. I'll update tonight when I get home if there is still a concern. EDIT: When I said "clean the o-ring" I meant, cleaned it off, cleaned the lid, cleaned the spot in the pump where the threads meet, etc. Then re-lube the o-ring with silicon magic lube.
  13. I don't remember exactly. I know I have gone in there since it had air in it. Tomorrow morning I will stop the pump, take it off, clean the o-ring, lube the o-ring, re-install it and re-tighten the lid. Not sure what the second part is about the 1/4 plug screwed into the bottom of the pump basket? The basket is a blue and goes in only one way. I take it out periodically to clean the stuff that the cleaner gets. It is a hayword, it's just 13 years old though, so not as updated as the one in the pic. I showed that photo just for reference as it is the same style (maybe ALL pumps are, I am not sure). I will check model numbers in the morning and take a few photos.
  14. I am not the original owner and have only owned my home/pool since last September. I have cleaned the filter a few times, lubed o-rings, replaced tiny parts that have broken, but that is all. The pool and pump are from 1997 time. It is a Hayword pump. The pool is an in-ground gunite pool in San Diego, CA, of about 15,000 gallons. I have a System 3 (I think the name is) filter, a chlorinator, and the hayword pump. This problem just started last week and I don't know what the causes could be (I can guess, but I don't want to). When I turn the pump on, the wet-end of the pump is full of air, you cannot see the water at the top (like I used to). The pump runs for maybe 20 seconds or so before it is completely full of water in the wet-end. Then the air is pushed in to the filter. Air comes out of the return in to the pool until water begins to come through. I have had to go out there every day or two and while the pump is running I open the bleeder at the top of the filter and about 1-2 minutes later all the air is gone and water comes out. When the pump turns off, a few seconds later you slowly start to see bubbles go Blop... Blop... (ha ha) in to the wet end. It lowers the water level in there slowly (maybe an inch every 60 seconds it seems), but over night it adds up. So what could the cause be? Here is a photo of a similar pump to mine, so you get an idea what it is I am looking at (the plastic cover) where I see the water disappear and the air come in). This is just some random pump I found on google of Hayword, but its similar.
  15. I need some parts that should only cost a few bucks each. I went to Home Depot and of course they didn't sell these exact plastic pieces, but similar items were only $2-$4 so I don't see that paying these prices online of $20-$30 a piece seems fair. Does anyone know where I can find these parts for cheaper? Here is a good page that I see has all the parts listed clearly. http://www.inyopools.com/pool_parts_slides_parts.aspx I need parts #C and #E
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