rustytbird

For all who have been following this thread, I want you to know that I have solved my spa problem. After much checking and analyzing the problem, it occurred to me that the problem was in the heater. But, the heater wa not the problem. Nor were the sensors. And the mother board wasn't the culprit either. It was the pump motor. Here is what I deduced the problem to be. when the spa was turned on, and then went through its heating and filtering cycle, the spa would go into its normal idle phase. When the water cooled down enough, the spa was supposed to turn on to reheat the pool back to the set water temperature. It did all of that. Now for the problem. The spa would turn the heater on, but the pump motor would not always turn on as well. Some times the pump would turn on and sometimes it wouldn't. It was a sporadic thing. I found this out by patiently sitting by the spa while it did its thing. The failure of the pump to start, created a situation where the water in the heater would begin to heat up, but without the pump running the water would not circulate through the heater and so the sensors would pick up the problem and shut down the spa. So the sensors were performing as they should. What I found was by watching the top side control readout, as the spa would go through its start up cycle, I noticed that when the cycle left the "pr" time and entered the " = =" time, the pump was supposed to start. If it did, everything was fine. When the pump didn't start, I was able to hear a humming coming from the pump motor. Once I realized what was happening, I gave the pump motor a hit with the heel of my hand and the pump would start. After replaying this scenario several times over, I was convinced that the totality of my problem was with pump motor and pump. I replaced them as a unit and the spa has been working just fine ever since. Case closed. I want to thank all who participated in this thread with suggestion and advice. You're a great bunch. Don K.

I'm not sure where you live but if you are in a warm climate can you adjust the temperature set point down below the ambient water temp (say, 60˚) so the sensors will read that and shut the spa down? Perhaps fill the tub with hot water from the house to get the water temp. high enough to do the same? For all who have ben following this thread, I want you to know that I have solved my spa problem. After much checking and analyzing the problem, it occurred to me that the problem was in the heater. But, the heater wa not the problem. Nor were the sensors. And the mother board wasn't the culprit either. It was the pump motor. Here is what I deduced the problem to be. when the spa was turned on, and then went through its heating and filtering cycle, the spa would go into its normal idle phase. When the water cooled down enough, the spa was supposed to turn on to reheat the pool back to the set water temperature. It did all of that. Now for the problem. The spa would turn the heater on, but the pump motor would not always turn on as well. Some times the pump would turn on and sometimes it wouldn't. It was a sporadic thing. I found this out by patiently sitting by the spa while it did its thing. The failure of the pump to start, created a situation where the water in the heater would begin to heat up, but without the pump running the water would not circulate through the heater and so the sensors would pick up the problem and shut down the spa. So the sensors were performing as they should. What I found was by watching the top side control readout, as the spa would go through its start up cycle, I noticed that when the cycle left the "pr" time and entered the " = =" time, the pump was supposed to start. If it did, everything was fine. When the pump didn't start, I was able to hear a humming coming from the pump motor. Once I realized what was happening, I gave the pump motor a hit with the heel of my hand and the pump would start. After replaying this scenario several times over, I was convinced that the totality of my problem was with pump motor and pump. I replaced them as a unit and the spa has been working just fine ever since. Case closed. I want to thank all who participated in this thread with suggestion and advice. You're a great bunch. Don K. I'm not familiar with your spa but on a lot of spas you can even take the temp sensor out of it's socket and put it in a container of warm water. You just need to get the the temp sensor to read that the water temp has reached the set point and shut the spa down with the heater disconnected. If the problem persists then it's the board.

Great work Bob. I wish I had you out here to help me solve my problem. I've looked, and I can find no ozonator in my system. It would appear that my model, the Freeflow Passport with the Free20 Pack SUV M7 system didn't come with an ozonator. The ozonator, according to the advertising specs put out by Freeflow, is supposed to be included in my system, but I can find no evidence of it every being installed. Unless, however, that the enlightened folk at Freeflow had somehow installed the ozonator in such a way as to leave no tracks should it ever be removed. FreeFlow Spas ----- what a joke, and what a PITA! But!!!!, There is a "socket" marked "Ozone" on the motherboard. So my question is: could it be, in my case, that the missing ozonater might be the problem? That sounds rather remote, but until I can find the culprit that is causing my problem, everything will remain fair game. I will disconnect the heater to see what that does for me and let you know the results. Thanks much Don K. Don, The problem will only occur with a defective ozonator, if there is no ozonator than it's a moot point. MOst Balboa pacs have the ozonator plugged in to a socket on the bottom exterior of the control box. If the socket marked ozonator is empty, nothing plugged in to it, than I would try the heater before buying a board. Turn the power off, disconnect the heater at the elements, make sure the leads are taped off so they cannot contact anything and then power the spa up again. If you still have the problem than I would imagine it's the board. Rob Hi Rob I've tested the system by disconnecting the heater and have the following results: With the heater disconnected and the sensors (my system has two) still connected, the spa starts up normally and goes into the pump cycle just fine. However, because the heater has been turned off, and the sensors are still engaged, the spa will not shut itself down. The reason being, I suspect, is that the sensors are telling the system that the heater is still trying to heat the water and therefore the pump must keep running. The heater light on the topside control panel remains on. With the heater turned off, and the sensors disconnected, the spa will not turn on. So, the sensors must remain connected for the spa to run. With the heater connected, and the sensors connected, the spa turns on, the pump activates, and the system runs through its pre programmed 4 hour filtering cycle. then the spa shuts down to its idle mode as it should. But there must be a back feed from somewhere causing the system to read an increase in the water temperature (the physical water temperature does not rise and the heater has not turned on) until the the temperature it reads gets high enough for the entire system to shut it self off. So, I'm not too sure what this test has indicated to me. But I do suspect, however, that there may well be a back feed in the heater/sensor part of this equation. This being noted, the question has to be: What do I do about it? Having tried just about everything else, I'm about to surrender to the fact that the motherboard ($500 - quoted price ) is the answer. But, on the other hand, the problem may still be resident to the heater/sensor part of the system. It sure would be cheaper to just have to replace the heater ( I've already replaced the sensors). Ooohhhh, the dilemma. The third alternative would be to replace the entire system pack in one swoop (a very expensive choice if I were to stay with a FreeFlow FREE 20 SUV M7 Pack Complete - Part # FF53307). Your thoughts? Don K.

Great work Bob. I wish I had you out here to help me solve my problem. I've looked, and I can find no ozonator in my system. It would appear that my model, the Freeflow Passport with the Free20 Pack SUV M7 system didn't come with an ozonator. The ozonator, according to the advertising specs put out by Freeflow, is supposed to be included in my system, but I can find no evidence of it every being installed. Unless, however, that the enlightened folk at Freeflow had somehow installed the ozonator in such a way as to leave no tracks should it ever be removed. FreeFlow Spas ----- what a joke, and what a PITA! But!!!!, There is a "socket" marked "Ozone" on the motherboard. So my question is: could it be, in my case, that the missing ozonater might be the problem? That sounds rather remote, but until I can find the culprit that is causing my problem, everything will remain fair game. I will disconnect the heater to see what that does for me and let you know the results. Thanks much Don K.

Rustybird the freeflow passport is a good tub we sell them the circuit board you are looking for ff53335 is the correct board for that unit the number is freeflow number , do you have a dealer near you that sells freeflow they can get the board,,,, but i would first check the filtern if it is plugged it may get a overheat code, but the heater either heats or doesn't yuo can check that through the board, make sure the dip switches are also set right, i believe number 2 is up all the others are down, hopefully this helps you out Bob, Did you say that you had contacted freeflow and that they had a Freeflow control pack available to dealers that included the motherboard? I would be interested in this if it is available? Don K. Don Freeflows part number for the board is ff53335 suv board, the m7 complete pack ff53307 hope this helps you out Eric Eric Do you have any idea where I can buy the FF53307 and how much it costs? Don K.

Rustybird the freeflow passport is a good tub we sell them the circuit board you are looking for ff53335 is the correct board for that unit the number is freeflow number , do you have a dealer near you that sells freeflow they can get the board,,,, but i would first check the filtern if it is plugged it may get a overheat code, but the heater either heats or doesn't yuo can check that through the board, make sure the dip switches are also set right, i believe number 2 is up all the others are down, hopefully this helps you out Bob, Did you say that you had contacted freeflow and that they had a Freeflow control pack available to dealers that included the motherboard? I would be interested in this if it is available? Don K.

His chip is FREE20R1B Bob, The only things that are electrically connected to my board are the two sensors, the heater element, the motor, the spa light, the topside control panel,and of course the main power line. To run the test you suggested, regarding disconnecting the heater elements, just how do you suggest I go about it. Doing something like that with the main power still in the board box does not spound very attractive to me at all. But, if I cut the main power and then disconnect the heater I will be right back to square one with the spa going into it's prime mode but without heating the water back up to the set temp. Hmmmmm. Also, how exactly is a spa heater supposed to work? When the spa is in its idle time, and the water temp drops below the set temp level, is the heater supposed to kick in to bring the water temp back up to the set level? Or, should the heater only turn on during the time that the spa is set to turn on? Say 2 times a day. Don K.

In response to Recoil Bob: Hi Bob, The chip # is FREE20R1B Let me try this again. The main power to the spa is turned on. The spa will start to go through the "prime" mode then it will check the water temp using, I'm sure, the two sensors in the heater, then turn on the heater, and then the motor will start the pump to begin the 4 hour circulation phase. The heater will turn off when the water temp has reached the preset temp which has been set using the topside control. Once the pump has started, the "jet" button on the topside control can be used to activate the 15 minute timed spas jets. After 15 minutes the jets will turn off, but the pump is still running and the spa is still within the 4 hour circulation phase, so the jets can be turned on again for another 15 minute period. This scenario will continue until the 4 hour timed circulation phase has expired and the pump turns off. Keep in mind that the water temp has been set at 95 degrees using the topside control panel. And the water temp of the water in the spa, as checked by a digital thermometer, in the spa is now 95 degrees. And note that the spa pump is now in its idle mode. As time moves forward from this point, the temp reading in the digital display starts to gradually rise above the set 95 degrees. The temperature of the water in the spa, however, has not changed and remains at the preset 95 degrees. There has been no heater activity during this period. The digital temp reading in the topside control will continue to rise through out the spas idle time until it reaches a point where the topside control will indicate an "HH" code or a "Dy" code, and the spa will not operate. The pump cannot be turned on by using the topside control because the system has shut itself down. I can restart the spa only by cutting the main power off, letting the spa sit for 10 to 15 minutes, and then turning the main power back on. Then the spa will start this cycle all over again by going into the "prime" mode again. This is the loop that I find myself in. I hope that I did a better job of explaining my problem this time around. Now for the rest of the story. I have replaced both of the sensors and the topside control with no affect on the problem. I have been trying to find a source for a new mother board for this spa because it looks like that may well be where my problem lies. I'm finding no Freeflow spa dealers that stock any of the parts. One of the dealers has told me that I must order any parts I need through their service tech. I have paced several calls and have left several messages with their service tech, but he doesn't return calls. This episode with the service tech guy has been going on now for almost a month(I am a fairly patient and understanding guy, but this is starting to wear a little thin). so that's why I've come here to this forum for advice and help. And to respond to Lori: I did talk with Terry ( a really nice guy ) at ActionSpaRepair.com regarding the possibility of switching out the motherboard to a Balboa# 52532 board and then using a different overlay on the topside control. This will work. However, before I go this route, I want to make sure that I've exhausted all hopes of finding a source for the Freeflow specific FF53335 board.

In response to Recoil Bob: Let me try this again. The main power to the spa is turned on. The spa will start to go through the "prime" mode then it will check the water temp using, I'm sure, the two sensors in the heater, then turn on the heater, and then the motor will start the pump to begin the 4 hour circulation phase. The heater will turn off when the water temp has reached the preset temp which has been set using the topside control. Once the pump has started, the "jet" button on the topside control can be used to activate the 15 minute timed spas jets. After 15 minutes the jets will turn off, but the pump is still running and the spa is still within the 4 hour circulation phase, so the jets can be turned on again for another 15 minute period. This scenario will continue until the 4 hour timed circulation phase has expired and the pump turns off. Keep in mind that the water temp has been set at 95 degrees using the topside control panel. And the water temp of the water in the spa, as checked by a digital thermometer, in the spa is now 95 degrees. And note that the spa pump is now in its idle mode. As time moves forward from this point, the temp reading in the digital display starts to gradually rise above the set 95 degrees. The temperature of the water in the spa, however, has not changed and remains at the preset 95 degrees. There has been no heater activity during this period. The digital temp reading in the topside control will continue to rise through out the spas idle time until it reaches a point where the topside control will indicate an "HH" code or a "Dy" code, and the spa will not operate. The pump cannot be turned on by using the topside control because the system has shut itself down. I can restart the spa only by cutting the main power off, letting the spa sit for 10 to 15 minutes, and then turning the main power back on. Then the spa will start this cycle all over again by going into the "prime" mode again. This is the loop that I find myself in. I hope that I did a better job of explaining my problem this time around. Now for the rest of the story. I have replaced both of the sensors and the topside control with no affect on the problem. I have been trying to find a source for a new mother board for this spa because it looks like that may well be where my problem lies. I'm finding no Freeflow spa dealers that stock any of the parts. One of the dealers has told me that I must order any parts I need through their service tech. I have paced several calls and have left several messages with their service tech, but he doesn't return calls. This episode with the service tech guy has been going on now for almost a month(I am a fairly patient and understanding guy, but this is starting to wear a little thin). so that's why I've come here to this forum for advice and help. And to respond to Lori: I did talk with Terry ( a really nice guy ) at ActionSpaRepair.com regarding the possibility of switching out the motherboard to a Balboa# 52532 board and then using a different overlay on the topside control. This will work. However, before I go this route, I want to make sure that I've exhausted all hopes of finding a source for the Freeflow specific FF53335 board.

How 'bout 52532 ? From what I know, and from what I think I understand, the 53532 will work just fine but because the main chip is not a FREE20R1B chip, the topside control won't function as it should. I have been told, that there is an overlay for the topside control that will change the way the control switches duties are designated. How that works, I'm not sure. Maybe the way to go here is to replace my current Freeflow motherboard with a 52532 board and then get a new topside control to match the new motherboard and fit in the current control's topside location. But, with all that being said, it still surprises me as to how difficult it has been to find anybody who might know somebody who has some idea as to where I might find information on the original Freeflow board. At this moment, I can assure all, that I am no great fan of Freeflow spas. ARRRRRGGGGGHHHHH! Don

I'm sorry to hear you're still having the same problem. There should be a sticker with a S/N or Part number; 52076, 52376, 52320 or 52532... When you get that number you can go online to compare prices with your service company or dealer quotes. Online, just make sure the business is spa specific, reputable and that the board is new, not a refurb. I'd imagine you want a proper warranty. Example search: "Balboa 52076 PC Board" If you can't find the number then start by searching for "Balboa M7 PC board" and see what comes up - you can usually match up what you have with a photo online, be careful cos there are quite a few it seems. Do call an actual human to confirm what you have and what you're getting, as opposed to pulling the trigger online. Electronics are most often not returnable. And check every single item on that board if you're doing this yourself. There are pins and jumpers and wires... used to be dip switches but hopefully those are gone now... anyway, if, for example, you get a board that's set up for 110v and you're running 220v it's going to have to be converted according to the directions supplied with the board, or by the directions on the back of the control box panel (or in your spa manual that you can find at Freeflow's web site). I hope this helps! I have all of the numbers off of the Freeflow motherboard. It is a Balboa SUV M7 board, but the chip number on the board is FREE20R1B and that makes all the difference. The Freeflow number for the board is FREEFL FREE20SUV and it has a Part NUmber FF53335. The board SN is 53335-02200703120027. I've been checking just about everywhere that I can and have yet to find anybody that has this board or selling this board. Any help here will be greatly appreciated. Thanks much, Don

I'm sorry to hear you're still having the same problem. There should be a sticker with a S/N or Part number; 52076, 52376, 52320 or 52532... When you get that number you can go online to compare prices with your service company or dealer quotes. Online, just make sure the business is spa specific, reputable and that the board is new, not a refurb. I'd imagine you want a proper warranty. Example search: "Balboa 52076 PC Board" If you can't find the number then start by searching for "Balboa M7 PC board" and see what comes up - you can usually match up what you have with a photo online, be careful cos there are quite a few it seems. Do call an actual human to confirm what you have and what you're getting, as opposed to pulling the trigger online. Electronics are most often not returnable. And check every single item on that board if you're doing this yourself. There are pins and jumpers and wires... used to be dip switches but hopefully those are gone now... anyway, if, for example, you get a board that's set up for 110v and you're running 220v it's going to have to be converted according to the directions supplied with the board, or by the directions on the back of the control box panel (or in your spa manual that you can find at Freeflow's web site). I hope this helps! I have all of the numbers off of the Freeflow motherboard. It is a Balboa SUV M7 board, but the chip number on the board is FREE20R1B and that makes all the difference. The Freeflow number for the board is FREEFL FREE20SUV and it has a Part NUmber FF53335. The board SN is 53335-02200703120027. I've been checking just about everywhere that I can and have yet to find anybody that has this board or selling this board. Any help here will be greatly appreciated. Thanks much, Don

I'm sorry to hear you're still having the same problem. There should be a sticker with a S/N or Part number; 52076, 52376, 52320 or 52532... When you get that number you can go online to compare prices with your service company or dealer quotes. Online, just make sure the business is spa specific, reputable and that the board is new, not a refurb. I'd imagine you want a proper warranty. Example search: "Balboa 52076 PC Board" If you can't find the number then start by searching for "Balboa M7 PC board" and see what comes up - you can usually match up what you have with a photo online, be careful cos there are quite a few it seems. Do call an actual human to confirm what you have and what you're getting, as opposed to pulling the trigger online. Electronics are most often not returnable. And check every single item on that board if you're doing this yourself. There are pins and jumpers and wires... used to be dip switches but hopefully those are gone now... anyway, if, for example, you get a board that's set up for 110v and you're running 220v it's going to have to be converted according to the directions supplied with the board, or by the directions on the back of the control box panel (or in your spa manual that you can find at Freeflow's web site). I hope this helps!

Okay, I've now replaced both of the heat sensors and the topside control panel. I have also freed up all of the jets and they all now function normally. I was able to find the heat sensors and topside control on eBay. However, my original problem still exists. So, I'm down to thinking that I might have a problem with the motherboard, and I want to replace it with a new one. But, cannot find a source from which to buy the board. It is a Balboa M7 board with a FREE20R1B chip. Is going through a Freeflow spa dealer my only choice in finding a new motherboard?

Some Freeflow spas have a big whirlpool jet. It doesn't come out like the other ones - I mean it can come out, but not like how you take the other ones out. It's obviously bigger than the other jets, so you'd know if that's the whirlpool. But you should be able to turn the face of the jet clockwise and counter-clockwise to make it go on and off. However... it could be stuck cos of calcium build up or something - since it probably never gets used. It doesn't sound like that's causing a problem though.