mrfixit

I think what you are describing are threaded inserts. Grab ahold of the threaded part you can see protruding from the socket and turn it out (either by hand or it may be necessary to use channel locks... be careful not to damage the threads.) You will then be able to thread in the winter plugs. Don't remove the screws or the faceplate.

I suggest that you pay the $$ to have your local pool supply store show you how to winterize it. That is the best bet.

When you removed the filter while the pump was running, it may have sucked some air and now has an airlock. Try breaking open some unions to release air and looking for an air release valve around the pump plumbing. Beachcombers often have them at the top of the plumbing assembly and are usually marked as "air bleed" or something similar. I would not adjust the pressure switch until you have done this.

After some research, I learn the filter cycles may not be changeable on your model. From your description, it seems that you have the basic model, and if so, then you are not able to change the filter cycles. I suspect that you have a bad pump control relay. here is a Lite Leader tech manual, may be of some help. http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/PDFs/B...lLiteLeader.pdf

The filter cycles are the unknown variable here. I think that is the problem. I suggest figuring out the filter cycles first.

I am suspect that the transformer is the problem. Because it shows only 80v, I suspect the problem is within the circuit board. I am not familiar with your system, so I cannot say for sure, but the board will probably need to be replaced.

To be clear, it sounds like you are still powered up, but not at full power? Good advice to check the voltage, especially when the pumps shut down. If the red or the black show low or no voltage, then you know the problem is with the supply. If you are at 110 on each, then you know the problem is within the tub.

If you have power to the heater leads, as described in your original post, then I would guess your element is gone.

Is this tub new or have you used it for a while? If so, was it working properly until when, and why are you now changing the breaker settings?

No worries, the water will not freeze until it gets much, much colder than that. I have 1 customer who has been ordered by the fire dept to keep his pool circulating all winter because he has no fire hydrants near by, and his pool is on constant standby for fire protection all year round. He has no issue with freezing. Besides, worst case scenario, just turn on the heater! (lol)

The manufacturer may be identified on a rating plate attached on the inside of the equipment compartment, or on the base under the skirt outside the tub.

I am not an electrician, but it seems to me that if you are going to get a ground fault or overdraw it is just as likely if the breaker is in the house as outside. My guess is if the wiring and breaker are sized correctly, and the wiring is done properly, you will have neither of these problems.

sorry did not see that you reset the breaker.. also you said "codes", what other codes are you getting?

OR 07 is not a code I have ever seen before. As suggested, reset the circuit breaker. What other problems are you having? I wonder if they could be related.

Deterioration of the jets is directly related to water chemistry. Be diligent in mantaining the PH, Alk & Calcium properly.

I did not read all the thread, so I may be beating a dead horse here.. this issue sounds to me like a heater relay. Some tubs have 2 heater relays, each one supplying 110v to the heater for a total of 220v. If one of those relays are bad you will get only 110v to the heater and a very slow heating cycle. I have run into this many times.

I would suggest to get a gas tech to repair it. DIY plumbing jobs are one thing, but gas should be left to a professional.

yes, air in the pump is most likely either a bad connection at the plumbing entering the front of the pump or an air leak at the lid. Also check the drain plugs. They should have some kind of a gasket or rubber o ring to seal them. Keep in mind an air leak will most likely not leak water, so they can be hard to find.

Thats interesting. try to put one of the old covers over the new one, to protect it, or get a very light colored tarp to cover it that will reflect the heat. I wouldn't leave it uncovered just in case the same thing happens with the liner in the pool.

I can't see after changing all the electronics that the same issue happened again... either the electronic design is flawed, in which case a new unit will not help you because it would do the same thing..or.. there is a different electical issue going on, which I suspect is more likely. Even though your electician says all is ok does not mean that all really is ok. I recently changed a circuit board on a brand new hot tub after the electrician wired 330v into it instead of 220v. point is, they make mistakes. I suggest that you read your installation and wiring instructions so that you can be armed with questions, often the instructions will give warnings or advice about wiring that is essential to the operation of the unit that he may have missed.

Being a service tech, and closing and opening about 50 -70 pools every year, I think you are on the right track. Typically, I will pump down the pool about 2-3" below the return jet and leave it and the skimmer open. Allow the water to drain through these openings during the fall and spring thaw. from your description, you are not taking enough water out of the pool. Hopefully, you have shut off valves or unions at the outside of these 2 openings that you can break apart to allow the water to drain away. I know alot of people use the submersible pump to drain off the cover, but be very careful when doing this. If your cover has any holes in it the water will be sucked out of your pool as well as off your cover. Unfortunately, the leaves are a constant problem, and the only thing I can suggest is to clean them off your cover as best as you can in the spring before removing it. Like Trigger said, the water jugs are a good idea, though not pretty, because they allow for vertical movement in the winter cover. If you have a small leak in the liner that goes unnoticed, or the ice tears your liner during the winter, the ratchet and wire will collapse the walls of your pool if the water leaks out under the cover. With the 'dangling jugs" the liner will just be pulled into the pool under the weight of the snow and ice. As for the leaf net, they are not really meant for use thru the winter. I do not think it would do a very good job of keeping the finer stuff off the cover.

If the impellor is siezed onto the shaft ( which it often is) and you cannot get a pair of vice grips between the wet end and the motor housing, you will need to either remove the rear of the motor, or break the impellor to get it off. Drilling the impellor is a good idea, and alot less work than removing the rear cover of the motor. Putting a screw driver in the end of the shaft will probably not work because you a human hand cannot put enough force into that screwdriver to hold it when the impellor is siezed onto the shaft. However, if you decide that you do want to remove the rear cover of the motor, there are usually 2 or 3 slots on the edge of the rear cover where you can fit a screwdriver into. Carefully pry the rear cover open little bits at a time as you work your way around the cover. There, you can get vice grips onto the shaft. If you take this route, you may as well change the bearings while it is broken open. Good luck.

I dunno about the temp sensor... it would seem to me that shutting down the tub because of a bad temp sensor would be fatal in a cold Canadian winter. A block of ice that big would take until the following July to thaw. I would think it would go into freeze protect mode with a bad sensor, ie running the pumps continually. What did you mean "it doesn't do anything any more" Is that the tub you are talking about, or the control pad being non responsive? My vote is with a bad control pad or bad board.

if that is the case, that is a behavior that I am not familiar with. Although it is possible that the tub design requires the pump to turn on for short bursts, that would be a redundant feature. The temp probe measures the water temp continually in most cases, and tells the pump and heater when it is time to boot up. Are there any dots or messages on the display? Did you actually measure the water temp with a thermometer to verify that the displayed temp is accurate? When the pump starts, how long does it run before shutting down again? Do all pumps boot up at the same time, or just 1? Is there any moisture or other indication that the control pad may be faulty? Do all the buttons work as they should?

I don't know anything about the Jacuzzi, but the Bullfrog is a great tub. Bullfrogs are renowned for being energy efficient, they have a lower wall and less plumbing than a conventional tub. This is one of the reasons for the efficiency, less resistance in the plumbing = less energy to move it around (pumps don't have to work so hard). Also the jet paks are a great design acheivement. Not only can they be relocated around the tub in most cases, they can be exchanged for completely different paks if your needs change. For example, if you or someone who regularly uses the tub suddenly develops a back injury, there are jet paks that address specific area's of your lower and upper back, and can be easily and quickly interchanged. Also, the warranty is great and, speaking as a technician, these are very reliable and well built tubs.