cplarsen

Which was my point. Avoid the low chlorine level in the first place, then the rest becomes academic.

Umm, there's no way for a filter to trap particles without becoming clogged. Now, a natural clarifier may be easier to clean off the filter later than a oil based one, but it fills those little 10 micron holes just the same.

Umm, since he's worried about biofilms, I wouldn't recommend a low chlorine routine at all. Go high, and just dump and refill more often to cover the CYA problem. btw, I notice a slight cough problem from my tub too. But it hasn't returned since I quit worrying about nailing the numbers exactly. These days, I just throw in a tablespoon of dichlor a day, period, and shock once a week with MPS. Sure it's more than needed, but chlorine and water are cheap.

Give it a try both ways. I think you'll soon find no suit is vastly preferable for a host of reasons.

You can get it here http://www.rhtubs.com/ But honestly, I'd just dump and refill. I've been avoiding the clarifiers as they'll clog up the filter a bit.

Sounds like you're having the same problem I had, discoian. Try using muratic acid, 1/4 cup at a go till it comes down. Much cheaper than Spa Down. See here for more. http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=9634

The breaker box has to be visible from the tub. At least 5 feet away, but no more than 15 (but check local code). Purpose is so a repairman (or you) can be dang sure the power is off.

I'd say the surface needs to be cleaned first. But I'd contact the manufacturer and find out how, and with what. Email button is in the top right corner. http://www.leisuretimespa.com/

A lot depends on the existing deck of course, but at a minimum, usually you'll need to beef up the beams. Find somebody who knows what they're doing. It's no fun when your deck falls down. Especially if you're on it.

Bring a jug of straight Clorox bleach and put in about 3-4 ounces (bring a shot glass) before use. Should be good enough and should all be gone when you dump it back in the lake. And I'd dump it all back in the lake.

Well, you should have shot back, "What do you want to do with the stuff inside the house"?

Sorry, should have been more clear. Mine is still run in conduit, which is what makes it meet code.

What you do is bury or trench in 1" I.D. PVC pipe or conduit ahead of time and the electrician can pull wire through that at anytime. http://www.wikihow.com/Install-Outdoor-Electric-Wiring Ignore the bit on the UF cable, you don't want use do that. The trick is to do as little digging as possible. Unless you enjoy digging. I ran mine along the side of the house just under the siding, then under the deck. Avoided the whole thing. Oh, buy the wife a shrubbery, and paint the box to match the house.

No doubt. Can only blame Nature2 for this. They should have done a better job with their educational material.

Because it's more expensive. http://enzymes.cre8ivegroup.com/spaproduct...CFQ9jHgodZx7IZw Have heard good things about it though, and if you're really sensitive to chemicals, I'd give it a shot.

Well, you put your finger on it with the MPS. I use chlorine as the primary disinfectant, shock with MPS. I don't like the straight MPS routine as a primary. And until chem geek finally dug it up, nobody was really sure how the silver worked with it. Not real confidence inspiring.

It's still going to take about the same amount of chlorine. I noticed very little difference, if any, when testing. I did notice the $60 hole in my pocket. Just wasn't worth the cost for me. But, as I said, give it a shot and see.

I'd fill it when the electrician tells you to go ahead and do so, he might need to move the tub around a bit. Should have enough water in it to test everything by the time he's done. Then you can drain and refill again if you're worried about what's in the lines. You won't need to add chemicals till after that. What you might want to do right now is go to your closest spa dealer and get the water tested, otherwise, you might have no idea what to add and will be going in blind. Yes, I know you have a test kit, but you're new at that too. Go grab a brochure, look at the chem prices, get a rubber duckie for the kid, and pick the dealer's brains a bit. I wouldn't mention that you've already bought a spa at Costco. Then you'll know what you need to do on startup and you'll have a handy spot for those little items you're going to want from time to time.

Yes. But you'll have to change the water more often due to the CYA rise.

Here's the last itchy nipple thread, for what it's worth. http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=10272

Yes, we're talking good old Clorox bleach. 6% chlorine. The chlorine you buy down at the dealer has been stabilized and granulated for ease of handling, and is a much higher concentration, but it's about the same stuff chemically.

Just empty and rinse. http://www.rhtubs.com/info/water.htm Looks like 4.5 oz of Clorox according to my math.

When you say oxidizer, what exactly do you mean? According to the charts, you need 2.5 teaspoons of regular dichlor (50%) to get to 5ppm chlorine for your tub. http://www.rhtubs.com/info/water.htm You'll need to put that in just about every day. With ozone, it'll last a little longer, so you need to check how long it lasts. You never want to go below 1ppm. You'll need to add 2.5 tablespoons of MPS once a week.

Go with bromine/silver. You can drop the silver later, but give it a try. I used chlorine/silver, and dropped the silver since I'm there every day to do the upkeep anyway.

Well, that's an easy $1000 to have him knock off if you really want that tub. And you can always add it later if you feel you just must have it. Honestly though, I really doubt you'd miss it. I've never even bothered to replace the ozone bulb in my tub. Chlorine is cheap. I did fix the circ pump though. That's worth having. But it's your call. I understand how it can rankle not to get all the bells & whistles when you're blowing that kind of dough.