RDspaguy

You should start your own thread. Include everything you use, your test readings, test method, and routine.

Please describe the sound it makes. Does the spa have a 24/7 circulation pump? Is this the pump you are talking about? Do the jet buttons still work?

Ouch. 😪 You sure know how to hurt a guy. 😉

Gold Star, @castletonia.⭐

Check for continuity to ground on your heater and equipment. Find that, and you've found the cause of the trip. Or disconnect one thing at a time until you find the issue. Heaters tend to trip it immediately after reset. If it trips with everything disconnected, pull the main wires off and see if it holds. It may be a bad breaker.

No. Depending on the board, there are many connections, including the low voltage transformer, on a circuit board. Continuity is not the same as a short. Your gfci breaker can cause this when tripped as well.

What light? The spa light or panel backlight.

I wish more people would monitor it and post results. Some real-world comparisons would be interesting to see.

That's because it will be different for every brand and location.

FL-1 means the pressure/ flow switch is not closed when it should be. It is a flow issue, or damaged wiring to the switch, or a faulty board. Are you sure you have the right circ pump?

Yep. Clear silicone.

The chip tells it if it has a circ pump or uses low speed on the main pump. In any case, the heater should not turn on without the pressure switch reading flow. So either the pressure switch is faulty and the chip is wrong, or the heater relay is stuck. The sensors need a 20,000 ohm setting. Faulty sensors can trigger pump operation.

The pump running on high speed will heat the water some. If you have no continuity on the heater it is bad.

At a certain size they are called "shovels".😂

A 1992 hot springs is unlikely to have a circuit board, and if so it will still have a dial thermostat and light dimmer, and independent relays. Pics could help a bit, but you might just ask what you want to know about it that you hope to find in a manual.

Those should have an o-ring in the jet body that oes against the back of the tub. They are also usually caulked there as well. They do have a gasket that can go on the flange, but it can still leak at the threads. I would caulk the flange and first half of the threads and screw it down snug.

Start your own thread vic. But first read the water chemistry sticky threads.

@castletonia, can you get a manual that old?

When redoing a cabinet I use beadboard stapled directly over the old cabinet. For corners I cut halfway through the back of the beadboard every couple of inches, spray with water and heat with a heat gun and bend it around the corner. You could also use shiplap installed vertically around the corner.

🤪 All spas leak, usually in the equipment area. Plumbing leaks tend to have a cause, such as freeze damage or long term bad maintenance. Full foam tubs are less likely to leak but more expensive to fix. There have been a few nightmare scenarios over the years, such as 96-97 Sundance glue failures, Cal-spas red and blue pvc failures and safety suction switches, Hot Springs light lenses and moto jet drain barb, and D1 check valve issues. Foam isn't all a hot knife will slice through, and I wouldn't risk one for the sake of the minor convenience it may offer. Over the years I have tried all manner of different methods for removing foam, and a flat nail bar is still the best all-around tool for it. Anything that could make more leaks is a no-go in my book, especially on a hot springs. I suppose if I only worked on those and knew the plumbing layout well I might be willing to try it, but it's just not worth the risk for the few HS I see with plumbing leaks.

You aren't going to find many biguanicide fans here, I'm afraid. Maybe @waterbearcan offer some advice other than "don't use it", which would be my advice.😉

Remove your filter. Check for flow and lots of bubbles from heat return. Post pic of circuit board.

That can be a problem. Give us some details and pics, maybe we can help. Include the equipment area, as most leaks are in there.

It should turn off the heater when the jets are turned on. When the heater light is on, check voltage to the heater at the circuit board connections. Some heaters have a manual high limit reset, is that what you mean by "heater switch"? Does it reset then trip again, fail to reset, or is not tripping? Is the circulation pump running?

Some spas, such as Sundance, are designed to have the 24 hour circulation pump as an option. So the jet pump still pushes through the heater with or without a circ pump, the jet pump actually pushing through the circulation pump, and all that changes is the board logic. Without a pic of the equipment area I can't see the plumbing, but it must be that way here to have that effect. The issue is the switch not closing, which should happen from the circ pump or from the low speed jets. The fact that only the high speed will do it suggests that there is a flow restriction. Since the circ pump is pulling off of the main pump output either could be a factor. I assume that it has worked with this flow switch before? Post a pic of the equipment area. Pull out circ pump and main pump and check for obstructions or broken parts. Check any valves at the equipment. Remove circulation pump and connect plumbing, and switch jumper 2 to the non-circ setting and try it without the circ. Check sensors with a good ohm meter.