RDspaguy

Sequencer was only if the massage control was not working. So what I am getting is that everything in the spa is working except the lights? You just posted a pic of the most likely cause. Verify that you are getting voltage off the board to the light controller. If so, unplug lights one at a time and see if it starts working with a bad string unplugged. If it does not work with any unplugged it is the controller box.

You know what they say about those who assume. It could be any button on either control, but the small auxiliary buttons are prone to failure.

Gesundheit.

"Hold" is a response to a button being pressed for too long. One of your buttons is shorting out. Figuring out which topside it is will be a challenge with it being intermittent.

The neutral (white) wire from the spa must go to the neutral terminal on the breaker, not the neutral bar in the panel. The "pigtail" from the breaker goes to the neutral bar.

Figured as much. My phone is always auto-screwing me too.😉 I have learned to proofread before hitting send, and still miss some. If you want a blower, you need a blower motor. Spa jets pull in air through a venturi from an air control valve and manifold or pipe. A blower is generally a separate system with it's own jets. Better. I fear for your safety a bit less now. 🙄 And now I fear for your safety even more! 😉 We'll give you all the advice you want, but you'll have to hear the advice you don't want too. By the time you are done you will have spent more on a plastic tote with no seats, much less massage, and a few scattered jets than you would have on a used tub needing repairs that you then repaired. You could have a real spa instead of an uncomfortable, uninsulated water trough. There are used spas on craigslist and fakebook everywhere I have looked. And I guarantee you will enjoy it more.

Yeah, hot springs, caldera, sundance, D1, and a few others that use the small laing or grundfos circ pumps are problematic with a vs system. A vs can run a circ pump, but it has to be a bigger one with a higher flow rate, and correspondingly bigger plumbing. I have tee'd in an additional suction to the plumbing drain hose or pressure side pump and added a return at the jet pump suction pipe to accommodate a bigger circ pump, but I wouldn't recommend it for an amateur. Not alot of room in there.

Do you own a multimeter? Check voltage to the circulation pump. Some have a fuse for the circ pump as well, you might check that too. Turn down temp and run jet 1 for a minute. Turn off power and unplug sensor harness and test sensors using the ohm setting. It is difficult to get the tester probes in the little rectangular windows on the side of the harness, but it can be done. Or you can remove them by depressing the metal tab inside the window and pull on the wire. Post results Post a pic of your circuit board, wiring diagram, and equipment area.

What exactly is and is not working? Do the buttons and display work, but the backlight is out, or does nothing work from the topside? Does it run automated functions? There are multiple fuses on the board, depending on which system it has. Post a pic of your circuit board, wiring diagram, and equipment area. So is the massage controller working? Or was it before this issue? Do you know where the sequencer board and solenoid bank is located on your tub?

A pump running can overheat a spa, but it will actually overheat the water in the tub, not just in the heater at the sensor. Most OH errors are from low flow through the heater, where the sensor is located, and do not actually overheat the water in the spa. You believe? When it enters the filter cycle, meaning when it starts? Or sometime during? Or that is your guess and you really don't know? At face value, I would say your pump is overheating during a filter cycle and shutting off when the heater is on, thus causing the heater to overheat. Is your pump loud? Any grinding, squealing, or rhythmic tone changes from the pump? Run it for 10 minutes then touch the top, it should be hot but not painfully so.

No, it is just a heater. No thermostat, high limit protection, flow protection, pump controls, timers, or anything else. Just a heater in a tube. Again, I strongly advise against this plan. Your complete lack of knowledge regarding hot tubs is painfully obvious, and I feel this project is beyond your ability to complete safely and effectively. Get a cheap used spa and fix it if you want a cheap tub and a project to work on. Building one from scratch with no know-how is foolish at best.

The circ pump will not move enough water to keep up with a 5.5kw balboa heater. The circ pump moves a max of 14gpm with no head (so only in the lab) and closer to 10gpm in a spa with a clean filter, and the heater requires 20gpm minimum to avoid overheat. The heater circuit can be wired to 120v (by connecting the single relay leg of the heater to neutral) and it will run ok, but heat slowly. You can get a 4kw heater and it might, and I stress might, be ok at 240v. The HS heater could be wired in to a vs system, but the sensors aren't compatible and using the m7 sensors at the pack with a remote heater will eliminate low flow overheat protection at the heater. With a vs system you are best off plumbing the main pump into the heater and use the circ pump, wired to the a/v circuit, for ozone injection only. Balboa has systems designed for use with remote heaters that have sensors that mount to the outside of the heater and in a thermowell. The thermowell will have to be installed, either in the plumbing or the shell.

That is an inline heater, meaning water flows through it. I would strongly advise that you shop for a used spa, or at least do enough research to know what all is involved in a hot tub so you don't injure anyone or burn your house down. Spa controls have numerous redundant safety devices to prevent all kinds of unpleasantness. It takes more than just a pump and heater to make a hot tub.

390! Do I hear 400? Going once... going twice... sold to the man on the Harley! 😉

Yes, you can.

That's the point. Be sure the center is supported.

If they want the spa to survive being filled they do.

"Ice" could be the cold temp fill water. It should heat about 8 degrees per hour at 240v. It sounds like you have multiple issues, as I doubt that the no heat issue is causing the breaker to trip.

Alot of things can cause a gfci breaker to trip. You will have to disconnect them one at a time to track it down. It could be the breaker itself. Disconnect the heater next.

So, the pipe is pulling out of the fitting? Will it pull completely off? Just glue it with pvc primer and cement.

It could be a number of things. Do you own a multimeter? Check incoming voltage and fuses. Post a pic of the equipment area, circuit board, and wiring diagram.

Yes, it seems like a board problem, assuming it is not turning it off due to a flow or sensor issue. It should be showing an error if so. I would guess it's a burned out relay on the board. Pull the board and check the back for burns or dark spots. Post a pic.

I know, I know... It's a hot tub!😉

😂 Not so. The manufacturers have a payment schedule, and only pay a certain amount for a given repair. This is usually less than the dealer charges for repairs and does not include things like drain/fill time, moving the spa for access, drive time, or even hourly labor times (they pay x amount to do a heater element, y to replace a pump, etc). Plus, some manfs go really out of the way to deny warranty claims (Cal), leaving the dealer to eat it since they already did the work before the claim denial and you are unlikely to get a customer to pay at that point. So dealers are left to cover much of it, but the warranty is manufacturer. This is one reason dealers often drop manufacturers. I have worked for 2 that dropped Cal for warranty claim denials.

Hey @CanadianSpaTech, check it out! A whole thread hating on gecko. 🤣