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Ehren

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  1. the temp is currently at 72, so I can't set it below to try and get the relay to click. Could it be the relay? Does this seem like a board problem? I'm almost at the point where I just buy a new control and heater.
  2. You know what's funny, or actually not funny, is that I bought it from that guy in the video!! It had a 2 speed 120v pump and I replaced it with the same. The pump is running fine, hi/lo jets good, ionizer is ionizing. Voltage coming in on the board with the heater disconnected is: 120v Voltage on the board at the heater connection, with heater disconnected is 9.86v I can't be certain that is is calling for heat because the 'heating' light is off. The pump kicks on at low speed as it would to heat and is set to 100 with a current temp of 78.
  3. The way you say Ohhhh!!! makes me think this is a notorious hot tub and not in a good way. I bought it from a local dealer that refurbs hot tubs about seven years ago and never had a leak and until recently, the only problem it ever had was a bad flow switch. It was retrofitted to 120 and has a 2 speed pump, rather than two. Also no blower. I initially got the F2 error when I restarted it, but haven't gotten it since. I don't have the golf ball sized switch you asked about and attached a picture of the intake and the heater. The heater doesn't have a switch anywhere and I checked the resistance on it with the multimeter and it read 11.1. Voltage to the heater red 0! It's the board, right? I know you're going to say it's the board! The voltage on the spa is right on at 124. Thanks for all of your help on this!!
  4. Thanks for looking at this. I believe I found the limit switch on the backside of the intake, but it is not a button, rather a long metal tube. It slides freely in and out of the housing, but is blocked from removal by the union. Should it be able to move freely and is there a way to test it?
  5. Details: 2001 Cal Spa Genesis 110v Last week I installed a new 1.5 hp hydromaster motor/pump with new unions, new flow switch, new Clear Blue Ionizer and a new filter When I first turned it on, it heated to 104. The next day I went out and it was 100 and the heater light wasn't on but the water was circulating as if it were heating. I got in and ran the pump on hi and adjusted the temp. When I turned the jets off the heater turned on, but the next morning it was off again. I unplugged it and it didn't heat when restarted. Pump is running, as it would when it is heating. I cleaned the filter, ran it without the filter, cleaned the in tub strainers, checked for air lock, adjusted the switch, disconnected the switch and still, it won't heat. I also ran a jumper wire between the flow switch connections and got the FL code. Reconnected the switch and no code. The cover is keeping the heat in really well, so I don't think it's losing heat and can't keep up. Any ideas on next steps are greatly appreciated!
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