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Found 77 results

  1. Family Friend's gave my fiance and I a hot tub for free and we've been trying to get it to work. It worked for the previous owners last summer (2017) but since we've inherited it we cant get it to work. It is an Advanced Spas Model: DS404STD (year: 2000). We got the pump and jets working but the heater won't heat the water up and it seems to be tripping the breaker. We removed the heater and turned on the jets and it didn't trip. The minute the heater is added back into the mix the breaker trips. As well, still not heating up the water. We bought a replacement heating element for the tub, but it hasn't seemed to solve either problem. We had a local Spa Service come out and take a look but they took one look at the age of our tub and refused to get involved because of the age. We've already sunk $400 into this (moving it and hooking up the electricity) so we don't want to give up hope. Even if we can get one year out of it, it'll be worth it. But right now it's an expensive lawn ornament. Any thoughts or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. We have NO idea what we're doing - neither of us have owned a hot tub before so we're flying a little blind here. We get married in November and it would be such a gift to get this thing running by then so we can relax after the wedding. Thank you in advance for any suggestions!
  2. Just set up the spa for the season after been in storage over winter and I have a situation whereby my MSPA Reve JB-301 inflatable spa heater will switch to standby and control panel will power off after about 30mins while heating up the water. The temp has got up to 30 deg C, controller powers on and heater and filter comes on for about 30 mins then switches to standby. I have fitted a new filter and the water level is just below the maximum. Has anybody any ideas's why this would happen.
  3. I had been noticing this month that the control panel is getting a little harder to use, normally I go out and push the button for ten mins and let it run so I can test my water. Lately I have been having to press either of the buttons a few times before they respond. Four days ago I went out and my water was almost warm, I left it alone after unplugging the power, and searched Google for Classic F Jets work but no heat. I ran into something about the circulation pump, and I had forgotten to see if the water was circulating. I went out yesterday plugged it back in and saw the water circulating. Left it plugged in this time. Today I found something about the Hi-Limit Thermistor, so I went out to find it and see if I could see anything that looks odd about it so I might know if its having a problem. I noticed a white crust on the outside of one of the Thermistor, So I took a picture of it. I am not sure what one is what so the one with the white crust on it is the one at the far end. I also noticed that the plugs on the other end of the wire are very loose and floppy. Heater going bad or Thermistor going bad? After I took the photo I decided to feel the water and it is warm again. Did I reset something by unplugging ? Also this link has a photo of the other side of the wires, I see bare covered wires on one of the plugs does this need to be addressed? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/itsmeab4u/Hot%20Tub/IMG_20120727_144750.jpg
  4. Hello everyone, I've had my 2012 hut tub since new and have had no issues with it... until this winter season. When the outside temperature reaches approximately -4F (-20C) or below, two things happen: Pump 2 engages and doesn't shut off. I have to manually turn it off. However, when I manually turn it off, it will turn back on when a) a set filtration cycle starts, or a call for heat occurs. The heater is not turning off when the desired inside temperature has been reached. For example, I keep my hot tub set at 101F, during a cold two week stretch we had the tub reach 114F because I left it for a couple days and didn’t manually turn off. If it's anywhere above approximately -4F (-20C), the hot tub operates as expected. Calls for heat at the right times, goes through the filtration cycles correctly, etc. I tried changing the filtration cycles to see if that does anything... which it didn't. I've reset the system, still didn't do anything. So I guess what I'm looking for is some suggestions on how to troubleshoot this. Don't know if it's a board issue, pressure switch, heater, etc. I've tried Googling this issue and I haven't found anything similar. Outside of moving to a warmer climate, please help! Here's some additional info: 2012 Sundance 680 Series Two pumps - Pump 1 and Pump 2 (no circulation pump) Here is an excerpt from the manual that may be of interest: Approximately two minutes after power is applied to the spa, the first filtration/heating cycle turns on pump 1. With two pump models, an automatic five minute “blow-out” function also activates pump 2 for a period of five minutes to flush all lines. Then, after five minutes, pump 2 turns off and pump 1 continues to operate for the duration of the cycle. Thank you.
  5. Hi. I've got a 2012 Caldera Kauai. I had to remove the electrical service cable to install tub. I accidently removed the heater wires from the control box terminal block. Does anyone know where the correct positions are for the white and black heater wires?
  6. I bought a house with a pool four years ago. The pool system includes a Mastertemp 400 heater. The heater stopped working and makes a gurgling noise when turned on. I understand that this means that the heat exchanger has failed and is leaking into the combustion chamber. The heater is something like 10 years old. It seems at that age I should buy a new unit, rather than trying to have the heat exchanger replaced. Thoughts? A guy we like for the install will install another Mastertemp for half the price of installing a Raypack (won't have to do much pipe work). I've read that people mildly prefer the Raypack, but maybe not enough to make up for a couple hundred extra bucks of install. Thoughts? I've heard that a sacrificial anode might extend the life of my new heater. I don't have a salt pool. Is an anode helpful in an old-fashioned chlorine pool, or only a salt pool? Thank you!
  7. The heater lights from what I can tell, then hot air starts coming out of the vent, then it gets going harder and even more air blows out of the vent (warm air), and then it eventually stops and the service light comes on. Anything I can do to resolve this?
  8. Ok, there are plenty of "blinking power light" threads on here but I'm trying to make sure I don't waste $ !! I've got a 2008 Tiger River Caspian and the hi limit keeps being triggered. I've replaced the circulation pump with a newer model along with hi limit and the thermistor. The circ pump flow seems fine- lots of bubbles. The filter is "reasonably" new. I disconnected the ozone a while back, but this problem showed up long after...When I reset the breakers, the tub gets reasonably hot but after a while it stops heating and the blinking power light starts; the DC17 LED on the IQ2020 board lights up. Both the heater and the connection IQ2020 LEDs light up when I reset the breakers. There doesn't seem to be any visible problems with the relay. Now, I've seen some white calcium buildup on the outside/bottom of the heater and high limit/thermistor recently. Is this the problem? I don't have scale in the main tub. I have never used Spa System Flush or similar but maybe I should have...! I have had a few rodent visitors in the area but it doesn't appear they have done any damage. Should I replace the heater? Would just flushing it work or is it too late? Any tips would be appreciated before I spend the dough. JC
  9. I recently bought a home which had a hot tub included with the sale. We finally got it up and running and have noticed it loses heat more than we expected it to. We are in eastern Canada and have had some nights down to -4C already. For example a night not long ago it was -3C and we had 4 bathers in the tub for approx 1 - 1.5 hours and the tub was down to 100 (from 104 set) when we got out. I left the cover off for another half hour after we got out to add chemical and the tub was then down to 98. One set of jets was running most of the time, 1 bather had the air turned on for most of the time. The tub model is Legend by Platinum Hot Tubs. The spa pack is a Balboa HS200VS with a 4.0kW heater. I've noticed in researching tubs this is on the low end of heater ratings, with 5.5kW being more common. So I have a few questions... 1. Is this amount of heat loss normal? I hope not because its only going to get colder here, often down to -15C or -20C. 2. Is a heater upgrade possible on this pack? I've seen some recommendations elsewhere saying its never a good idea to upgrade a heater but what makes me think its possible is that the circuit board (P/N 55098) used in this spa pack is the same as a VS510SZ by Balboa which has a 5.5kW heater. And would it make a difference as far as heat loss is concerned? My spa is wired up to a 60A breaker. I've also noticed Balboa sells secondary auxillary heaters in various kW ratings, obviously one of these would require additional wiring but is it possible to retrofit these or are they only installed by spa manufacturers? Any help would be great, thanks.
  10. I inherited a 1997 Beachcomber Model 550 that is not heating but I wish it did. Here' what I know: -the motor is running normally and the pump is working fine, both are brand new -there are no error codes on the topside controller but the red heating status light does not come on -when powered up the actual temperature reading is 54F now. Was 56F yesterday which I'm assuming means the water temperature sensor is working -the temperature setting on the controller is set at 100F. I am able to raise and lower this setting but nothing changes in terms of operation -heater element resistance is 15 ohms but no 240v at terminals -the heater relay on the circuit board shows 253 ohms but is not closing which explains no 240v at heater element terminals. Manually closing the relay gives 240v at the heater element. Having trouble testing for 120v at relay, not sure how to do this. -with the power off, pressure switch is open. Not able to confirm if the pressure switch is closing when powered up, not sure how to do this either. -removing the pressure switch/high temp sensor connector (4 pin combined connector) from the circuit board before powerup causes a Sn fault -checked the high temperature sensor for continuity, not showing any resistance. I understand Ohms should vary with temperature, ie. higher when colder and my guess this is the cause of the problem. -circuit board looks ok, ie. nothing burnt, no cracks, continuity in several circuits I checked.. Any insight is appreciated not to mention some advice as to where a guy can find parts for older Beachcomber hot tubs. Thank you.
  11. Donnas Pool Care

    Caldera palatino

    Spa is not heating, voltage to each element is 120v. But when I set the temp up to 104 the spa kicks on for a shot while and then shuts off. I don't hear a low speed pump circulating. What way should I go, change the 2 speed pump or replace heater?
  12. I need advice. I am installing a fiberglass pool. The contractor is trying to place the heater/pump/system by our shed. However do the small slope of the yard, they have tired to build it on a cinderblock platform. Is this legal? safe? Thoughts on this please. We are meeting with the contractor tomorrow to discuss. They moved and installed it today without our consent. Stefani
  13. I have a 2003 Sundance Sweetware Palmero hot tub which was working fine for years. I didn't run it for a year and then when I turned it back on it would trip the power breaker when the heater would click on. I checked around and everyone said it was a bad heater so I bought a new heater and installed it. No change. I then heard people say that it was my circuit board with a bad lead. I bought a new circuit board and installed it, NO CHANGE. I know the power is good because when I don't have the heater connected on the board the jets run fine. Gotta say this has me stumped! All help would be appreciated. Thanks
  14. Hi I have a 2000 hotsprings jetsetter model j that I'm attempting to repair. So far I replaced the heater circulation pump which got the hot tub working after 2 or 3 years of sitting for about 5 days after which it started to blow the gfci plug. I ohm'd the heater and it reads 10.8 ohms. When I reset the gfci it starts up Until it hits the heater and trips. With the heater unplugged it operated normally. What could cause the problem in the heater if the resistance is In spec?
  15. Hi there! We recently bought a house that came with a 14-year-old Tiger River Spa Bengal that appeared to be in excellent condition. It was set to 97 and the system panel showed "READY". And putting my hand in the water, the water did feel heated. I never had a hot tub before so I went to a local Hot Springs Spas dealer and they gave me a great run down of what I had to do. First step was draining and refilling. I shut down the power and drained it and removed the filter etc. I refilled the tub through the filter compartment. Once that was done, I put the filter back in and fired up the power. Control panel, jets, light came on fine but the heater didn't seem to kick in. The water remained at 78 even after hours of waiting. So I start googling. I tried removing the filter. I rebooted a few times. I removed the panelling and checked under the hood. There was a "Heater Reset Switch". I punched it and I did feel a click. I thought I figured it out but alas, the heater still wouldn't kick in. The switch didn't trip, though. I'm unable to reset it again at this point. Anyway, I opened up the box containing the board. Something called a "D9" is blinking RED. A "D10" is solid green. "LIM OK" is solid green. And "HTR ON" is solid red. I kinda assume that that guy means "heater on" and should be solid green... I took some photos: https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGVfZ2vG3CaDy I have a service guy come on Tuesday, but I'd love to fix it myself and cancel the appointment. The question is, can I fix it myself or does this require some advanced skills. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks!!!
  16. Hi again all, I have a Hot Springs Hot Spot SX that isn't heating. I'm able to set the target temp and the spa will attempt to run and heat up but after a while I get the following error code while the jets are running - display reads ===== with 'ready' slowly blinking, with filter cycle icon in lower right lit and jet icon in lower left lit. I already replaced the electronic pressure switch thinking this would solve the problem, but it's doing the same thing. Any guidance is much appreciated!
  17. So hopefully this is in the right place, I'll start off with a little back information just to bring anyone willing to share their knowledge up to speed. We finally bought our first home about 6 months ago, the property has on it a in ground indoor pool, (about 15,0000 gallons I believe). I have never in my life owned or maintained a pool so I am still very new to this world. We fell in love with the house and had the pool building itself inspected but unfortunately didn't understand how important a pool inspector would be. After dealing with a stained liner, and cleaning up a slightly neglected building I finally was able to get the water balanced out for the most part and find a propane company willing to work with me (some of them here wont service pools)... unfortunately when it came time to hook up everything we found out that we would have to invest in a new pool heater, we rolled out the over 20 year old raypak and just received our new hayward h200fd, the vent pipe looked ok from the outside and I ignorantly assumed I could reuse it, which of course I quickly realized would not happen. The hayward instructions are somewhat vague, the pool stores near me can't offer more then the number of someone to call, doesn't even sound like it would be a professional and I already have a friend of the family that is an electrician and owns a home improvement business helping us tackle it, he has installed pool heaters before just not indoors. I have now ordered a positive pressure vent kit for the model I have and am starting to become concerned if I ordered the right thing or not, apparently negative pressure is for vertical venting, and positive pressure is for horizontal, I believe since the vent pipe will be going out the side of the building it is considered horizontal, also, also I would like to understand what a drip tee is and if I need one, why the old system didn't have one but did need a draft hood? Lastly this vent adapter is coming from a company called heatfab, they have other vent pipe material to purchase and it's shown in the owners manual the part numbers for the rest of the piping to go out the building, the prices they ask are very high, just the adapter was almost $250 So we would prefer just to go to a hardware store and buy a few feet of double wall stainless vent pipe, is there a reason against doing this? Thank in advance, I know this was a lot at once but I'm finally at the point where I can admit I am lost...
  18. James William

    Caspian Spa leak/GFCI trip

    Hello, I have a Tiger River Caspian (2005), 230 volt, 50 amp. It developed a slow leak (5-7 days) that would drop the water level to about the bottom of the filter compartment intake. It was hard to identify the leak from the equipment compartment so we had a guy out who replaced all the check valves. Leak continued, so he replaced the Ozonator and the Heater. The leak was solved temporarily but from that time forward the heater GFCI would trip pretty often, which he just said to live with (I notice this seems to happen every time I top off the spa now). Within the year, the leak came back and again it stops at the exact same spot (top of filter intake compartment, which is also bottom of upper bench and at bottom of first jet counterclockwise from filter). I'm perplexed - would like to give this a shot myself, as it doesn't seem like a new jet leak given it's duplicate of before, but I don't want all my spas guts replaced by this dude for another $1500 only to have the ongoing GFCI trip as well, potentially, returning leak. On inspection, I do not see any leaking water around the heater. Does this sound like a check valve somewhere? Any thoughts more than welcome! Thanks.
  19. I have a 1999 Caldera Spa's Martinique. Yes, I know it's an old model, but I'm renting a house and it's permanently installed, so it can either be a swamp (as when I moved in) or a functional tub. It seems to work fine, but I have one problem and one question: Problem: the circulation pump kicks in for a minimum of 2 hours twice a day (4 hours total), and when it does, the heater kicks in as well. This is a problem because the minimum temperature on the spa is 80F, so for 4h a day it's running the heater to get from 60F (or whatever ambient is) up to 80F, even though I don't plan on using it for a week or maybe more. Is there any way to disable this? I imagine I'd have to mess with the logic control board... Question: I know that all of the functions work because I can test them (i.e. jets, filter, light, etc.) but the one thing I cannot test is the ozone generator (which I can see is installed). There is no error code being displayed, but that doesn't mean it is working. Does anyone know how I can check this? Thank you!
  20. So i have an in ground spa, it sits in the deck area. I havnt used it for about 6 years, so i went and got a new pump, re-did the PVC and everything worked. But the heating did not. Im using a gas heater and when i turn it on only the pilot turns on, it makes no noise and the main burners dont seem to turn on, i dont actually know how to use the heater properly so maybe im doing somethinf wrong? The flow into the heater is really strong so i know thats not an issue. I put pictures below of the heater if anyone can help me please. P.S. the pump and heater light are on (orange) http://pasteboard.co/GVauPFkrq.jpg http://pasteboard.co/GVdmg02rI.jpg http://pasteboard.co/GVgHIsOMs.jpg
  21. My 2007 Arctic spa hot tub is equipped with n.xm platform and IN.THERM-H4.0 Gecko AEWARE heater. The small output connector for the heater (heater communication cable) keeps tripping the breaker. The other connector (power cable) doesn’t. I replaced the breaker but with the same results.When unplugged I get the a communication problem error (RH-NC). Can this be fixed or do I have to replace the heater? How do I test it? Any help will be much appreciated.
  22. Heater on 91 Hotsprings Classic burned out. Measured open with meter. I did notice that one of the posts of the plug had turned a copper color and had some rubber or plastic around the base of it, Possibly from the receptacle on the control panel. Seems like that post may have been over heated.The circulation pump was working fine. The tub has been working fine all summer and up to a week ago was at 104 deg.. I was lucky enough to find a local Hotsprings dealer who had one in stock yesterday (#31255) and replaced it. There are no leaks after replacement so I turned back on yesterday but the heater would not heat up. I checked for any heat after a few hrs and its like heater never turns on. I have a concern that I may have damaged the heater because I measured the resistance at 80 ohms before I installed and now its at 8 ohms. (that to me is almost a short ckt) I am now suspecting something in the control box, probably a stuck relay, etc. That may be why one of the plug posts overheated and discolored. So my questions are 1. What is the resistance on a new heater supposed to be ? 2. What could cause the heater to burn out and the new one not to turn on ? 3. Anyone have a schematic of the control box ? I had to drain the tub today because I'm in NH and the temp is in the 20's now. I plan to pull the heater and pump today and see it the heater will work with 115 VAC directly applied to the plug posts. Thank you for any help. I'm desperate to get this fixed for the winter. Al
  23. Iowa Steve

    Temp fluctations

    I have a 700 Series Vita, about 10 years old. Has been a great tub overall. About a month ago, (with tub set at 102 degrees), found the water temp reading at 99. The circ pump was running but the heater indicator on the control panel was not lit. If I press the "temp up" button, to 103 or 104, the heater indicator on the control panel appears for 2 seconds and goes off again. (and it is not an indicator problem as I can tell the tub is not heating) if I come back a few hours later, the tub will be up to temp again, and if I adjust the temp up or down, the heater indicator goes on or off accordingly. this is a daily occurrence now. I have reset the tub to factory specs by turning off power for 5 minutes and then holding clear for 10 seconds per the manual. I have replaced the temp sensor, no change in symptoms. so, 1/2 the time the tub functions as designed, and 1/2 the time, it will cycle down to 97 to 99 degrees and not kick on the heater, or when I manually adjust the temp higher. so, my issue is one of a few things (I think). Either there is a "time issue" that it will not function in some time window, or it is a limit issue...ie; the tub runs and heats for a period of time and then it shuts down until something cools off and resets?, or just an intermittent "fault" somewhere. scratching my head.... (and of course this is happening in the middle of an Iowa winter..hoping not to convert my tub into a 300 gallon block of ice)
  24. I have a Tiger River Spa, the Sumatran N model. Recently, the water went cold, and I could not get it to heat. After following threads and discussions in this site and others, I tested and was able to determine that the heater was bad. At that point, everything else in the spa worked, and no circuits had been tripped. Jets ran, control board worked, main circuit board green light and red light both lit. The failed heater was a Watkins No Fault 6000 with the following information on the sticker on the bottom of the unit: 240V6000W, THJ01, SET-DO-OH-CO, 11113, 240328, 36(8?)10 REV K. The replacement heater, as recommended by Watkin's, is a Watkins PDR Titatium 1.5KW/6KW - model #73790. I drained the tub, replaced the heater, and then refilled the tub with the filter removed and the hose in the filter housing tube to reduce the chance of air locks. I then replaced the filter, turned the power back on, and purged the pumps by turning the jets on and off. Everything appeared to work properly. I then added a bottle of the enzyme mix from Carefree Spa, called Le Natural Spa, which I have used for the last 6-8 months. Per instructions, I removed the filter, and added the solution to the filter housing. The instructions then called for me to circulate the spa for 15 minutes. I turned on the jets, and went about cleaning up. After about five minutes, the jets stopped. The jets "on" icon was still visible on the read out on the control board, but no jets operation. I tried to turn the jets off and then on, but to no avail. I checked the circuit board and no circuits had been tripped. I then cut the power to the spa at the circuit board, and let it sit for 30 minutes or so. When I powered it back up, but the jets would still not kick in. Instead, there was a clicking sound from the circuit boards, and I noticed that when I first pushed the jets button, a small green light would light at the very top of the smaller relay board, and then it would click and the very small green led light went out and the small red led light next to it would come on. Previously this had been a constant green. I tried turning off the heater at the circuit board, to see if the jets would then work with the heater out of the mix. That did not work. It was getting late, so I let the tub heat overnight. The heater brought the water temp to the set temperature during the night. In the morning, I went out and tried the jets again, and they came on, but once again after a few minutes they shut down. I have powered the spa down from the main circuit box and let sit for 30 minutes before powering up again, to no avail. At this point, all I get is the above described clicks and shift from the small green to red led on the top of the smaller relay board. I also tried inserting the hose with water turn on high into the filter housing tube to remove any air locks. Any ideas anyone?
  25. I will be replacing a 10 year old Pentair Minimax NT TSI 250 (nat gas) w/DDTC heater in Houston TX area on a 18K gallon inground pool with spa. We have had numerous problems over the years and I'm tired of repairing. Blower rusted out AGAIN and core is very rusty so that will need replacing soon. I don't want to put more money into it at this point. We don't usually heat the pool with it but I want it to work for the spa when I want to use it. What brand and model do you recommend and why?
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