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About d.sebens

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  1. I’m just going stir crazy waiting for this spa pack to arrive lol. I’ve got to find ways to use the hot tub other than actually using it. I’ll leave it, the filters are on the low end anyway.
  2. I’ll just leave it for now. The base is flat. So how is a drop in tub supported when it’s installed in a deck? Do they crib up support under the footwell? If I used xps foam that wouldn’t really change the angle right? I would still need to make a level base? Or would I just use multiple sizes and make a ramp in a stair step fashion?
  3. I’ve got an inch lower overall where it sits. It’s 3/4” difference at the water level. I’ll probably leave it but was thinking, I don’t want to build a box and level it for such a small amount. What if I got pvc boards and used a 1 by on the low end and taper them for the sides. Does that seem reasonable? A hot tub is supported by the outside right? Looking into it I don’t really see any inner supports.
  4. I guess they are under no obligation but I’ve paid them their previous listed price and their website said it was in stock.
  5. This is so frustrating. Canadianspatech they emailed me after starting it was in stock that it was actually discontinued and the new one at current price is $645. That’s quite a bit more. What is your guys opinion?
  6. I checked the amps of the heater even though ohm's law says it's good. I measured 23.78 amps. It is specced for 23 amps so the heater seems fine, it has to be the board. Just some reassurance that the board will fix this issue. Thanks for your help guys.
  7. Welp, I am throwing in the towel. I am tired of trying to repair this. I am fairly sure it is arcing from the high limit relay to the heater connection. I am going to hook the heater up to power with an inductive amp clamp on it and check amperage on it to see where that is at. But either way I need a new board.
  8. That’s a good price, as far as over $500 repairs go on a free spa lol. Shipping is only $10. If I need a board I’ll go that route.
  9. While waiting for a part to come in I was researching different boards. What’s the difference between these boards? Plastic s class pack Metal s class pack The metal one is a lot more. My topside is tsc-44 and only the metal one says it will work is it a different board or do they just not acknowledge that control anymore? If I end up needing a new board what do you think my best route would be? It’s got the low flow heater so I don’t need one with a heater/circ pump and from what I can tell it was jjm connectors currently wired. Also in the listing the metal one s
  10. I am running a 50a circuit so hc should be fine according to the spa manual. Just wanted to make sure it was okay to be word that way. I’m in central Illinois. Supposed to be a heatwave of 40’s temp next week! Should feel like spring.
  11. I’m just afraid that the previous owner could of rewired it for 5.5kw. Do you think that is still reasonable wattage? Do you think maax might have the specs or should I just leave the heater where its at?
  12. Here’s a picture of the heater and the label. I figure it was always 5.5kw but the previous owner may of changed it. I just don’t know what it would of been originally. A mouse had nibbled on that wire and will be replaced before it goes into service.
  13. Looking online at replacement packs, the s class with the metal box like mine says it is rated for a 4000w heater. Did someone wire mine too hot? Should I wire it down less? It has a chart of how to wire it for different wattages. My board number is 9911-500117 rev f. the problem is that I can’t find any specs for the board.
  14. I will check the flow switch with my multimeter when I attempt repair 7000. I will leave the heater unhooked and monitor voltage on the heater terminals. My current theory is it is trying to jump from the high limit relay straight to the heater. When I removed the relayi noticed that it was missing conformal coating on the edge of the heater pad where it’s been burnt. I figure I have nothing to lose attempting to fix this board. Breaking it worse still ends up with it broken and needing replacement.
  15. No the guy repaired the board. I am okay with soldering and have nothing to lose so I have been messing with it. Both of those relays are new. I forgot to mention when I first got it I bench tested the t-stat relay and it would click but had no continuity so I unsoldered the p3 relay since I don't have a blower and used it on that one. I'm sorry I should of spaced out my pictures. That is a mix of before the guys repair and after. The guy is saying it was a loose heater connection caused it to arc yet there is no blackening on the heater terminal. Then he said it must be a dead short de
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