d.sebens

I ordered 3-72-7053. At the time they said it was being discontinued. Maybe you can find a new number @CanadianSpaTech is really good at finding part numbers. The other option would be to retrofit a new spa pack and topside on the tub.

Thank you for that, the SWCG would just replace the floater if I went that route. I still check on the tub before and after use and intermittently when not in use for long periods. So with it being covered you think I could get by with weekly checks(assuming it wasnt used during that week) of chlorine? What would my target be for CYA and chlorine level?

I use chlorine. No mps on hand at all. I have used cal hypo in the past to raise my hardness but no alternative sanitizers. I do have ozone, the light still lights up but it is also 20 years old so I just assume it's not doing much. I did consult my dr, he thinks it is a form of dermatitis and not foliculitus. It definitely looks like a rash when I get it. Small red bumps, my arm pit are is clustered together as a full blown rash. Other parts of my body just have random bumps. When you say I wouldnt have a reaction initally, I have used the tub a lot for the past year. Is it normal that say a year of use and it's just now showing up? On a small veer off topic, if I switched to chlorine there is no recommended floater since trichlor keeps adding cya right? I assume a SWG would be the correct way to "set it and forget it" on the days I am not using it? I dont mind daily additions of chlorine to the pool, thats really easy since theres not cover. Having to do it with the hot tub is a little bit more a pain when it's not used everyday. Also if I have developed a sensitivity to bromine, will lowering the level possibly help or is it's presence enough to upset my body?

Well the website emailed me saying all are discontinued and the replacement is a single directional one. This matched what your catalog says. Rather than keep checking with other websites I just decided to order the directional ones. They offered to honor my original purchase price even though the new ones cost more so that was nice. I’m hoping I can transplant my stainless trim rings to the new ones to dress them up a little.

I found these https://www.wildwestpoolsupplies.com/waterway-plastics-jet-intl-ww-power-storm-5fd-twin-roto-smth-ss-gry-rnd-212-6447s/ I went ahead and ordered them, I hope his price is right! According to that catalog these are actually the power 2’s which sounds like a cheaper design but mine didn’t really spin anyway so I’m sure it will be fine.

They only have 11 and I need 16. So I can use any non threaded power storms? I’ve removed the diffuser and the spinner bodies are starting to fall apart also.

I need to replace my jets, the diffuser bodies are bad but the spinning bits are also worn out. I think they are 5” waterway power storms non-threaded. I found this site that sells gray ones https://www.wildwestpoolsupplies.com/waterway-jet-internal-power-storm-roto-5-smooth-gray-212-6637/#shopper_review_page, I think I could transfer my stainless cover as tabs hold it on. This site is cheaper than others, I hope it’s not a scam. I’m having a hard time finding replacements. Mine have a flow restricter in them but these others don’t look like they would fit in them. I’ll attach pictures of mine.

I’ve thought about this but this tub has been bromine for 1.5 years. I haven’t had an issue prior to this.

This has been an ongoing problem since December. I will try to lay it out chronologically. The rash is worst at my under arms on both my arms and chest, but I also get it on my belly. Long story short: Tub got nasty Was cold so brought water back to clear until dumping Purged 3 times and dumped with 50 ppm sanitizer still rash Ran mulitple days keeping sanitizer at 20-30 ppm to try and help knock out any colonies(did not use tub at this time) Purged 2 times with the second purge sitting overnight, sanitizer at 30 ppm. Drain and fill, same problem. Hot tub is a bromine tub, Target numbers are PH <7.8, TA 50, Bromine 8ppm. Tested with taylor reagent. Sodium bromide to build reserve, 1" bromine floaters to help maintain. Only use muriatic acid when lowering ph/ta. Baking soda to raise if ever needed. Bleach when shocking. Mid December we had a gathering and the hot tub took a beating for about 4-5 hours of use. I only added extra sanitizer towards the end. I am sure it was 0 for quite a while. Life took over and I forgot to give the tub any attention for about a week. It was a murky foul smelling mess. It was also 0 degrees outside and was going to be like that for a while. I figured I will try to bring it back(knowing that as soon as I could I was going to dump it). I started shocking with bleach, maybe 20 ppm bromine or so. I also changed the filters(I have two sets). Over the next few days I brought it back clear. It looked perfect, levels were good, I decided I would try soaking in it. That night I had a rash under my arm pits on my arms and chest side. This caused me to stop using the tub until I could change the water. Jump forwards 2 weeks and it's just warm enough for a drain and fill. I bumped the sanitizer up to 50 ppm and ran 1 Tbs of Ahh-Some through the tub. It was the same as I've seen in the past, some yellow slime on the walls but nothing drastic. I had enough to do it two more times, I did not drain the tub, just re added when the bubbles would die down(about 30 minutes). Not much stuff at all came out on the last ahhsome. I then drained the tub but since it was still below freezing I didnt vacuum out the jets or wipe down. I refilled the tub, balanced the water out to my goal numbers above using only sodium bromide, bleach, muriatic acid. Used the hot tub with 8 ppm bromine, got the rash again. Funny thing, other people had used it and had not gotten any rashes from it. My wife had used it twice. In between I ran the sanitizer up to 30 and let it coast down to 20 for 3 days(knowing this is hard on the tub). Just in case I had some colonies somewhere that were depleting the sanitizer when the pumps werent running. We didnt use the tub at these levels. I decided there must still be stuff hiding in there. I bought more ahhsome and treated. First Tbs application, some muck came out but not much. I then bumped sanitizer up to 30 and added a second application. I ran the jets long enough to get it to disperse and shut tub off. I came out ever hour or so and ran it for a few minutes. At bed time I let it sit off overnight. I ran it the next evening to stir up anything(did not see anything) and drained tub. This time I vacuumed out the water and wiped the tub down. Filters were also swapped to my other set. Tub was refilled and water was balance with same procedure. I STILL get a rash, but the family has no rash. Last night the sanitizer was a little high, I read 10 PPM. I decided it would be fine and would drop fast since we didnt shower or or anything before. When we got out of the tub sanitizer was still 3 PPM. My sanitizer demand is pretty low to me. The floater sits at 3-4 on the number thing. I am using the same chemicals I have been using for over a year. Any idea what might be going on? I know I need to see a doctor about it for real medical advice but nothing has changed with my tub and I feel like I've adequately purged it.

So I didn’t know they made that kit and bought the homegamer k1005 kit with the plain dpd testing. The chart only goes up to 5 with that. If I want to run higher to take care of any outbreaks could I use my bromine fasdpd and just divide by two to get a fc number? When the dpd test runs out I will get the fas-dpd kit. Unless you feel I shouldn’t even use the dpd kit. Thanks in advance.

I am going to run chlorine in the pool. I know I need the CYA tests and chlorine tests. What do I need to get to supplement my kit?

I can’t remember the common size but my big jets with spinners turn themselves off after a while. They spin themselves shut. The jets that do have almost no friction when turning on and off. What part provides that? Just the tailpieces or something more?

That’s a coupler fitting. It will fit 1.5 inch pipe inside of it. You need to measure the pipe you cut that’s the correct size. To clarify I don’t know much about spa stuff but if I see the picture correctly, pvc pipe is rated off the pipe size not a coupler size since that accepts the pipe

My heater is configurable if you change the wiring. My hot tub has a tsc-44 top side which gecko said only the metal bodied spa pack would work on. Like rdspaguy said. Get pics of the heater and the sticker on the heater. Probably be good to get a picture of the topside controls too.

If your la spas is like mine then you have a circ pump with a low flow U shaped heater. This is the one I replaced. Says in stock. Probably should call the guy and make sure. https://www.poolandspapartssuperstore.com/gecko-alliance-ctrl-gecko-s-class-la-spa-p1-p2-p3-cp-oz-aux-lh-115v-230v-3-72-7107-0202-205096-0202-205110-0202-205116-3-72-7053/ Edit: I would probably try to find someone to repair it though I personally wouldn’t recommend spacare.com , my dealings with him were very undesirable. I ended up having to replace the whole pack.