CanadianSpaTech

If the spa runs one of the main 2 speed pumps for heating and filtering then yes. They will get up to 160+ degrees when running for extended periods of time and heat the spa above the set temp from the inside. 2 hours 2x a day is what most will set it at. 2 hours in the AM 2 hours in the PM. Clean filters weekly.

Filter cycle duration is set wrong and needs to be looked at. Check manual for how to set.

Just basing my reply on the 24 hour heating time. It sounds like it may only be getting 120v to the heater. Can you confirm with a multi meter that you are getting 240V off the circuit board with the heater disconnected. https://www.backyardplus.com/testing_heater_relay_board.php

Need more information...When you say it's a Jacuzzi tub is it an actual Jacuzzi Spa made by Jacuzzi Spas? What year is the spa? Post a photo of the inside cover of the control box and all the white tags on the outside of the box and one of the topside controller will also help identify What is the issue with the current board?

Enjoy

Just don't over use test strips it will only cost you money and you will over use chemicals. Does it look clean and smell clean chances are it's good. Once a week should be all you need. Use a bit of spa shock weekly. Ideally 6 hours before cleaning filters so the filters have time to pick up any suspended organic contaminants (all the stuff that comes off your body). If you have paper pleated filters clean them weekly and soak them in filter wash every 6 weeks for a deeper cleaning. Clean filters are the key to using less products. Removing the organic contaminants on a regular basis will allow your sanitizer to be more effective for a longer period of time and keep up the flow of water through the system.

Buy a quick drain. Great to use as a vacuum to pick up small debris and not loose a ton of water and will also drain the spa fairly quick. I always tell folks not to use the factory drain. Most of them you either have to open panels to get at them or a lot of other drain valves that are mounted through the base or side/corner panel you have to twist push pull turn rotate pull turn...there is usually only glue holding the valve to the plumbing inside the spa and IMO the weakest connection. I carry one on my service truck instead of a big bulky pump and unmanageable hose. https://www.costco.ca/quickvac-quickdrain-spa-maintenance-system.product.10322940.html

Sounds like you are on the right track. Let us know results. Good Luck

You could fill cavity with Roxol mineral wool insulation then with the panels removed wrap a reflective bubble wrap and staple in place. Would make future repairs easier. Could even bag and tape (6mil poly) the mineral wool and it will stand in place.

Unplug everything but the topside and work back from there reconnecting one component at a time (reconnect heater last). If it trips with everything disconnected I would pull the board to look on backside for burn marks before spending money on another GFCI

Where are you located? Below freezing area. Foam it would work. Is the base and cabinet still intact?

Leave the filters out until you find the issue. Are there any error codes? Is the heat indicator light on? Are you in standard mode? I would open the spa pack and look for any burn marks around the heater relays

Yes. Are all other spa functions working? I would disconnect it from the topside so it dosen't effect anything else. I would also check all other wiring for mouse damage. Make sure you find out where they are getting in and block it off before they do some real damage. They only need an opening not much bigger than a quarter to get in. What I see here in Canada during the Winter is they will nip the air injection lines so that water will drip then they have the perfect home that is warm and cozy with a water source. Mouse heaven.

The ISC-100 allows for full spa control through the stereo remote. Do you use the remote?

If you have Ozone unplug it then try reset. Disconnect the heater remove the 2- 3/8" nuts (hold the 5/16 nut below the copper tab when loosening the top 3/8" nut) and lift the copper tab so it is not touching the element then try reset. If you have unplugged all the components from the board and it still trips you may have a bad GFCI You may have to check the back side of the board to see if there is any damage but I would do this last

The board is Toast IMO. Don't try to do anything but pull the board and check the back side for damage. Test the old heater using a multi meter it is likely still good. I have a local guy that does circuit board repair for me for considerably less than new but repair viability would depend on how much damage there is. When a relay blows it is often an easy fix but when the area you are talking about blows out there is usuall a pretty good hole blown through on the back side of the board. You will have to pull it out and see what the back looks like and look for local repair guy...or buy new. Post a pic when you get it out. There are 2- 3/8" nuts attaching each copper strap to the board. The copper strap is sandwiched between the 2- 3/8" nuts. One in front and one in behind attaching the threaded stud to the board. The stud goes through the board from back to the front where the 3/8" nut is. When it blows it usually blows a hole around the stud larger than the stud. One of these 3/8" nuts being loose could have caused this issue. Might want to check the relays as well in case one got stuck and over heated the board causing the failure..or buy new A 5.5kw balboa offset heater element should not cost more than $40 online but I would check the old one first it may still be ok. Should flow around 11.5 ohms If you are in a cold weather area and are worried about freezing get a small space heater inside the cabinet until you can get it running again.

No need to dry them if they are going right back in. Shock usually a cap or so (25g) weekly but if you see it getting a little cloudy then add 3-4 caps (75-100g) Showering is helpfull...make up and hand lotion are killers. I also use a product called Spa Solution. It will help prevent bio-film and bacteria build up inside the plumbing for a 3 mth period.

Is there a glass fuse on that board anywhere? not super familiar with hot springs

As a new owner you are likely using it more often than most. How much shock are you using weekly? How often are you cleaning filters? Do you have UV or an Ozonator and if so is it working? At this point I personally would run Ahh-Some line cleaner and drain, clean/wipe down acrylic and refill with fresh water and start from scratch. This will remove the bio film (scum) and or factory products from inside the plumbing. Once full, water is above 95 degrees and filters are cleaned add 75-100grams (4 caps) of spa shock and run pumps on high for 2 -15 min cycles then run a 2 hour filter cycle. After that I would clean the filters again and reinstall. Then work on balancing the water after that. Alkalinity first to stabilize the water so you get an accurate reading when you adjust your ph. Heres my take on this issue. I just clipped it from a recent post I made for a slightly different issue to save time: Yes first thing I will do when a customer calls is to get them to remove the filters and run the spa without them until the issue is fixed making sure there is nothing in the spa that can go down the hole where the filter goes in. Usually I will ask when was the last time you cleaned your filters...then there is usually a long pause as they think back 2 weeks, 6 weeks, 6 months. IMO paper pleated filters should be washed out weekly with regular spa use (2+X/week) and soaked for 24 h in Filter Wash every 6 weeks then rinsed and dried. Also a good idea to buy an extra filter and rotate a clean one in weekly while soaking and cleaning the used one. If there is stil an issue with the spa after removing the filters and re setting the GFCI breaker then I will book a service call. In the Winter I go to the coin op car wash and place the filter on my trailer hitch and gently pressure clean without soap making sure to get all the crud out from the crease in between the pleats. In summer I just use the garden hose but you have to make sure to get into the crease of the paper pleats and remove the hair and gunk.If the water flow can't get through the filter pleats it will slow down the flow of water and cause an error and also make other parts in the spa work harder. Each time you enter the spa anything attached to your body and swim suit comes out. Underarm deoderant, shampoo, body oils and detergent. If using a bathing suit just rinse after use and do not wash with regular laundry as it will pick up the detergent. These are all organic contaminants and will just suspend in the spa. The only way to remove them from the spa is to get them to the filters and then remove and clean the filter. If you have a cloudy spa the cloudyness is the suspended organic contaminants or if there is a punky odour that is the organic matter dying and off gassing. To do this use spa shock weekly or as required (when cloudy). If you are removing the contaminants regularly you will use less chemicles. If you don't these contaminants will eat up your sanitazer quicker and you will have to add more frequently as they become less effective. Using spa shock and keeping the filters clean will reduce foaming and the scum line along the edge of the spa. Water should always look crystal clear and smell clean if not you need to take action. If cloudy clean the filters then Shock the water and run until it clears up then remove and clean the filters again. Clean filters are a key to maintaining a healthy hot tub and using less chemicles. It is the most basic thing but also most over looked by a lot of spa owners.

Yes first thing I will do when a customer calls is to get them to remove the filters and run the spa without them until the issue is fixed making sure there is nothing in the spa that can go down the hole where the filter goes in. Usually I will ask when was the last time you cleaned your filters...then there is usually a long pause as they think back 2 weeks, 6 weeks, 6 months. IMO paper pleated filters should be washed out weekly with regular spa use (2+X/week) and soaked for 24 h in Filter Wash every 6 weeks then rinsed and dried. Also a good idea to buy an extra filter and rotate a clean one in weekly while soaking and cleaning the used one. If there is stil an issue with the spa after removing the filters and re setting the GFCI breaker then I will book a service call. In the Winter I go to the coin op car wash and place the filter on my trailer hitch and gently pressure clean without soap making sure to get all the crud out from the crease in between the pleats. In summer I just use the garden hose but you have to make sure to get into the crease of the paper pleats and remove the hair and gunk.If the water flow can't get through the filter pleats it will slow down the flow of water and cause an error and also make other parts in the spa work harder. Each time you enter the spa anything attached to your body and swim suit comes out. Underarm deoderant, shampoo, body oils and detergent. If using a bathing suit just rinse after use and do not wash with regular laundry as it will pick up the detergent. These are all organic contaminants and will just suspend in the spa. The only way to remove them from the spa is to get them to the filters and then remove and clean the filter. If you have a cloudy spa the cloudyness is the suspended organic contaminants or if there is a punky odour that is the organic matter dying and off gassing. To do this use spa shock weekly or as required. If you are removing the contaminants regularly you will use less chemicles. If you don't these contaminants will eat up your sanitazer quicker and you will have to add more frequently. Using spa shock and keeping the filters clean will reduce foaming and the scum line along the edge of the spa. Water should always look crystal clear and smell clean if not you need to take action. If cloudy clean the filters then Shock the water and run until it clears up then remove and clean the filters again. Clean filters are a key to maintaining a healthy hot tub and using less chemicles. It is the most basic thing but also most over looked by a lot of spa owners.

C + D G) ... "salt is the future!"... Here in Canada Sodium Bromide or "salt" is being phased out and will be banned and unavailable by Nov. 2020. Not saying don't go in that direction but do your research. With "salt" you still have to do almost everything you would have to do if you didn't have a "salt" system. JMO

Buy some Ahh-Some line cleaner and remove/clean the bio film build up from inside the spas plumbing. Use spa shock weekly or when you have a cloudy spa. Clean filters WEEKLY. The scum is all the stuff you have on you when you enter the spa...Shampoo, under arm deoderant, make up, body oils... Organic contaminants. Buy a scum bug type product that floats on the water and absorbes the scum.

If pump is continiously running check filter cycle duration. Pump runnig for long periods can heat the water without the heater on.

Test and eliminate. Try everything and hope something clicks. Test the old sensor set as well they are likely still good and could be reused if one of the new sensors is bad. Tub has sat for quite a while without water and the air getting at the heater. Check the condition of the heater element. if all the mechanicals check out and you think it is somehow flow related let me know.

Is the SN message flashing intermittently with the temperature, or is SN just blinking on and off. If alternating with the temp, the spa isn't sure it's a sensor error. If just blinking on and off, the error condition is verified. You say the filters are new...how long have they been in and how long since they have been cleaned if new is more than a few weeks. A large percentage of the calls I get are dirty filter related. Although not usually sensor related. I always recommend that anytime you have an issue with a spa that the filters be removed and run without the filters until the issue is fixed. Basically removing them from the scenario. Just make sure there is noting in the spa that can get down into the holes like scum bugs, kids toys, G-Strings...lol. Even new filters that have only been in a short time can get gummed up and cause flow problems that can in turn create other problems. If the nose of the temp sensor is flush with the inside wall of the spa then it is all the way in. Make sure the wire is not laying on something that can get hot. You were able to get through to Balboa tech support?