CanadianSpaTech

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Side note when trying to ask a member a question put @ in front of the members call sign for quicker response. example @RDspaguy or @REA and it will pop up on their page as a notification. Regards Kurt

Being an "Export" pack made for the European 240V grid I don't think there should be a 115V option. The heater is to be run 1.5kw off 240V. From the pic of the heater you posted I don't think there is a 6 kW option as there is nothing for 6 KW listed on the heater tube for 6KW. Now as far as the spa heating with the main "jet" pumps running that is likely due to the pumps heating the spa internally from the heat shedding off the motors. Main pumps should have nothing to do with the heating of the spa. Having only a 1.5 KW heater it might take 30+ hours to heat up the spa from a cold tap water start. My well water comes in at 58 degrees F and if I were to try and heat a 115V (or 240V in your case) spa at 1 KW it could take up to 40 hours to heat up to 104 degrees with the first 30 degrees taking the longest. Could it be you are just no being patient enough? If you have 240 going to the heater and circ is running with the heat indicator light on everything should be normal and working. As for the jumpers it looks like the top left in the diagram is where yours is set with jumper #3 covering 2 pins. Can't read the models (small print and blurry) in the photo you posted. See Appendix 1 in the 2007 service manual I posted earlier. The only other jumper you can change is jumper 5 to go from Fahrenheit to Celsius or visa versa. Similar "European" 1.5 KW heater specs listed here...no 6 kw option... https://spa-plus.eu/hydroquip-1-5kw-double-barrell-heater

Can you post a photo of it.

I would try reattaching the circ and first try disconnecting the ozone and try the breaker if it still trips then try disconnecting the heater and trying the breaker again. If it still trips then I would then investigate the circ further. Only takes a few minutes and might save you from buying a circ and finding out it's the heater (most common cause of breaker tripping). Other thing is you haven't really used the heater much and then you crank it up and have an issue.

2007 International edtion service manual here: https://studylib.net/doc/18786015/service-manual-international-edition @REA

I see EXPORT sticker inside the control pack..What country are you in? What year is the spa? Not sure if this will help or confuse... confused me... lol.. https://www.spaguts.com/Documents/Instructions_Wiring_IQ2020_System-77271_Board-77087.pdf

Some have one some 2 some 5 sounds like yours has 1

did you remove the filter? Run without filter until issue is fixed. Remove them from the equation

did you do this? leave filter out until issue is fixed

Dirty filters? Remove them until issue is fixed remove them from the equation. Sounds simple but dirty filters are an error code's best friend even filters that look clean may still be restricting the flow of water and causing error codes HL Flo

Should post in the Inflatable Spa section of the forum

Not related to the OP's post but just to pass along some mindless jibber jabber for @RDspaguy.Coast Spas use to do a dual heater elements the ran 230 with 4 KW on one and 1 KW on the other. https://www.poolandhottubdepot.com/tspa-mp-replacement-board/

Check your filter cycle duration. Should be set at F2 meaning 2 hours out of every 12 hour period. 2 hours in the AM and 2 hours in the PM or 4 hours total out of a 24 hour period. If set higher say F8 it will run for 16 hours out of a 24 hour period and the pump running for that long will heat the spa above the set temp. If it is set at FC it will filter no stop 24 hours a day.

Here's what I know about Spa covers... If you could ever design a cover that lasted more than 5 years you would be rich rich rich were talking Bill Gates rich...lol Every seller will have bad reviews...expectations rarely meet reality. Average lifespan 3-5 years Warranty's mean little to nothing at all so don't get sucked in to 5 year 7 year warranties thinking it's a better product. It would cost you more to ship back a 3 year old waterlogged cover than to buy a new one and they would likely disqualify your claim as chemical related. Of the hundreds of covers I have sold over the years I can count on one hand the number of warranty claims and they are usually on delivery or within the first week or two. It is critical to maintain a cover to get the longest life possible. Use a UV protectant. Clean the cover with soap and water monthly and spray the protectant onto a rag sparingly and rub onto the cover. If overused the rain will wash it into your spa. A Cover Cap can be a useful aid if the spa is placed in an area with a lot of trees overhead. Here in my area of Ontario Canada (GTA) there are a multitude of online sellers but most all come out of one factory and they also make for OEM. I get a kick out of ads saying ours is the best.. and ours are better and in reality it's apples to apples with price and marketing being the only real difference. What I would be looking for in a cover.. 2lb density foam full length steam stopper that fills the gap between the 2 halves from one end to the other when closed. A lot of covers will only have a 4-6" piece at each end. A double wrapper vapor barrier is another nice upgrade if available. Chemicals will breakdown the poly wrap the surrounds the foam inserts over time and a double wrap will help delay this common issue. Turn off your water features when not in use. Covers have a moisture drain hole (or 2) on the underside of the cover. Waterfalls left on when the cover is closed will run water along the underside of the cover and can work it's way into the drain holes. Leave the cover open for at least 20 mins minimum after adding chemicals. Chlorine and bromine are caustic stuff and need to off gas. If you add chemicals and then close the lid you will burn the underside of the cover and it will fail and get waterlogged quicker. Top cover killer IMO Add a cover lifter. Taking the cover on and off by hand and placing it on the ground will wear it out quicker. When installing a cover lifter make sure the screws on the middle bar are pointed to the back of the spa so when the cover is flipped open the screws do not dig into the cover. When the cover is in the upright open position the screws should point to the ground. If the cover/spa is in a windy spot add a hurricane strap to hold it down. Just a 5" wide strip of vinyl that goes from the front to back right down the middle of the spa and clips in with standard cover locks. 90% of the covers I sell are 5"-4" taper with a few 6"-4" mixed in. 4"-3" very rare...indoor or in gazebo...Canada after all Good luck with your purchase

Bring the limestone flush with the wood so it does a bit of the support. As mentioned mine has washed away a bit from years of having many different sized spas on it. If you are putting one spa on it and leaving it there for life you won't have this issue. Again I have likely had 50 different spas on it of all possible sizes as I test and sell.

Just the base of the spa sitting on the PT wood frame then limestone screening filling in between the cross braces. I need to top up on the screening as mentioned in the above post.

Seems a little overkill but works. I remove the top layer of grass and dig down about another 6". Lay down 2-3" of crushed 3/4" gravel for drainage then a layer of limestone to level. Place 4x4 pressure treated or 6x6's made into a square the size of the spa's base. Then add 3 or 4 cross braces one side to the other. Place in hole onto gravel and level. Once level back fill the open voids in between the cross braces with limestone and pack down with tamper. I like to keep the top edge of the wood about 2" above grade. Mine is 10 years in and still level. Probably have had 50 different spas on it over the years of all different sizes. Just now getting to the point where I need to add a bit more limestone but only because often there are smaller or no spas on it from time to time and has washed away a bit. I only have 2 cross braces and in hindsight I should have done 4 with a couple of cross braces on the cross braces with the left over off cuts of PT wood.

Pro Tip: For those that have to travel to get to the spa in cold temps...place robe/towel in dryer and get it warmed up. Have a Coleman cooler that you can take out with you and place the robe into cooler while tubbibg and it will be nice and warm for you when you get out.

Bypass the dealer and contact the factory technical support directly

Have you gone to the store for either one and actually sat in them wet or dry? Ask for a wet test if they say not at this time (Covid) Don't be shy take off your shoes and get in dry. Get a feel for each seat. Think "floaty"..when running you will float a bit and get pushed forward a bit is the seat. How does your feet meet the foot massage jets. The seats next to the filter basket/housing..do your arms fit comfortably sitting next to it. I have been in some spas where my left arm is good but the right arm closest to the housing is not comfortable and a bit awkward. There is an extra seat in the WSC...but at what cost If they have a spa running but you can't wet test (Covid) use the back of your hand instead of your palm to feel the pressure. The back of your hand is more like your body then your rough palm. Get them to open up a panel and look inside. See the build quality. See the insulation. In the end they seem closely matched and regardless if you choose one or the other you will be happy to enjoy your new hot tub and the buying process will be long forgotten once you are sitting in it. When all else fails I say flip a coin and get tubbin

Personally never heard of WCS but I'm in Canada so.... I see the WCS uses a Waterway Spa Pack. Have not seen many in the field and have only seen them when they first started as a pack supplier several years ago. It was a different looking setup and it appears to have not caught on and they have now gone to a more traditional board set up. The fact that it is such a small company that has changed hands a few times as you say worries me given the current world situation...but perhaps that works in their favor...hard to say. Artesian Spas usually rank fairly high when the this or that question comes up. I was a little surprised at the list of "Options" that could raise the price beyond what you expect. • Pump/Heater Valves...odd that it is an option...• PermaBase ABS Pan, Led lighting, ozone As you do your research you will find many professionals on the service side say that a reputable dealer with a long proven history should be near the top of your decision making process and I agree. When looking at HP ratings take them with a grain of salt. To truly know the HP you have to look at the AMP draw ratings on the pumps. On Waterway pumps a 10 amp is a 3 hp high speed 12 amp high speed is a 4 hp a 16 amp is a 5 HP. Companies will use Brake HP and might call a 12 amp motor a 5hp. Long story short I would be leaning towards the Artesian...but a wet/dry test might tell you a different story if one "fits" you better. God Luck. Let us know what you decide

Just make sure it's one way and installed in the right direction

Looks to be the hose for a UV/Ozone injection. The white part joined to the 3/4" hose that the line comes off of is a Mazzi injector. Usually a one way check valve where the point of the red arrow is in the photo you posted. See below.... mazzi injector to ozone line to check valve... I would say plug it if you don't have ozone installed

Don't need much. Just a finger full