CanadianSpaTech

That's a definite maybe Reset the breaker and wait until it gets to PR then press temp up button once. Does the pump start in low speed or high speed? (assuming there is no circulation pump) If it starts in high speed swap the red and black wires around at the pump. Any time you get a error code on the display remove the filters and run without them until the issue is fixed. New, old, just cleaned remove them. Make sure water level is high enough and above the filters Make sure all gate/slice valves are pulled up Post photos of circuit board and schematic on inside cover

Lol... I really gotta read what people post...lol @RDspaguy thanks for the backup the other day

Please confirm the white wire coming from pump 1 receptacle is going to J14 Incoming power wires looks good to me. Was the original pump 120VAC? @Macgruber

Dirty filters? Remove the filters and reset the breaker. Leave the filters out until the issue is fixed. New, old, just cleaned... remove them. Not likely an electrical capacity issue. What brand of spa? Do you have and can you work a multi meter to check voltages Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover of the pack.

J29.... Heater Disable Switch Connection. If J29 is shorted by any means, the heater will not run until J29 is no longer shorted. If J29 is shorted during power-up “J29” will appear on the panel. The message can be dismissed with a button press, and is the only control panel notification of J29 being shorted. No message is displayed if J29 is shorted after power-up, but the heater will not run until J29 is no longer shorted. J29 expects a switch closure (not a voltage) as the command signal. In some areas, a local power company may offer discounts based on voluntary “power shedding” devices that may be installed in conjunction with the spa. Can you post photos of the circuit board as well as the schematic on the inside cover. @RDspaguy Your the Balboa guru any thoughts on this.

a new thread

I Charge $100 per hour as well (CDN though) so I think that's like $15/hour USD...lol @RDspaguy

Use a 2 part epoxy like Devcon plastic weld or Devcon 5 minute epoxy and it will outlast the dinosaurs. You can also use it to plug the open end.

https://www.diypartcenter.com/products/vita-spa-ozonator-coupler-reducer-3-8-inch-barbed-x-1-4-inch-barbed-vit470207 Drill hole for 3/8" end and Devcon 2 part plastic weld epoxy into hole

You just make me dizzy 😵

Can you post a pic of the schematic on the inside cover. Are you 100% sure the new pump is wired correctly? Sounds like you have a flow issue not a sensor issue. Check for air pockets in the wet end and heater tube. Are all the gate/slice valves pulled up? In Balboa spa packs with the M7 generation of heaters a sensor failure will typically not result in an OH code because the system has separate sensor specific codes that display when a sensor malfunctions. Are all the jets open and flowing water? Remove the filters until the issue is fixed. New old cleaned or not take them out. Remove them from the equation. When you power up and it gets to PR press temp up button once. Does the #1 pump start up and run in low speed only? Let us know results

Sodium bromide granules used in conjunction with a "Bromine Generator" or salt system has been banned in Canada. Most systems being offered in Canada now are using "Dead Sea Salt" instead. https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/consumer-product-safety/reports-publications/pesticides-pest-management/decisions-updates/reevaluation-decision/2018/sodium-bromide.html

Not me they want me to take a photo and send it in an email and they will get back to me in 48 hours. Great help when on site and need answers when the dealer or manufacturer know nothing.

Yes you can cap them but know water will not flow through them and any water left in the line may get stagnant over time. Always best to do the job right if possible.

Are the 1/4" lines coming off the black part seen through the hole? The black part looks like a mazzi injector for ozone system

Swap it over if needed no sealant required but make sure the o ring gets transferred over as well. You could use a wrap of Teflon tape but it is not required. Don't over tighten it or it will break.

Yeah it likely won't start back up in low once it shuts off. Be careful to be there for when it goes off it could get really hot trying to start again. Don't want to burn it to the ground now you've come to far

What Balboa system? (BP, VL, VS, El...) What balboa topside? How cold is the water you are refilling with?

Kinda yes. If you can get at the back of the motor there is a dust cover dead center of the motor. Remove it and you will see the shaft of the motor with a slot in it. Use a flat head screwdriver in the slot and try and turn the motor shaft to see if you can free it up or if it is seized.

Not really a needed part. Think the design is to keep water from running back along the shaft to the bearing if the seal fails. Most pumps just have a rubber "washer" the sits at the face of the motor...I usually get the rebuild complete and then see the washer sitting on the bench...lol. Spa Guy vids are good.

HMM...Thought there would have been some damage behind the K8 heater relay. No idea what that area controls or does. I have a guy... when it comes to stuff like that. Backside of board LOOKS good IMO. If it's running good then fix the F2 error and carry on I guess. @ $0.59 order several snubbers...just in case

Perhaps but what can and will happen is that water will sit in the lines of the unused pumps and go stagnant without flow. Disinfecting chemicals will not get into those unused lines and that can be unhealthy. One step at a time. Get your new pump and do your testing but the goal is to have everything working. Go 60 amp as well.

@J365 Jacuzzi My advice...pull the board and have a look on the backside for burnt or darkened areas around the relays. The relay bottom right looks like it might have had a hot spot and looks a little different than the others in the photos you posted. There has been an event to cause the SNUBBER to fail. Gotta know why or you could be in for further issues if not corrected. Not a hard board to pull and can be re and re'd in half hour. I suspect you will find the heater relay might be the cause but that is only a guess. If you do let us know results

Is this a new install? Looks like it shorted out and the SNUBBER did it's job...but I'm just guessing...lol No Idea on a replacement SNUBBER Those black wires got real hot Post photos of YOUR board so we can see everything

Well @RDspaguy Glad you asked. Yes in fact it is...not sure I used it correctly but it actually is Ha Ha you've been Snubbered...mic drop...picks up gold stars and leaves