Jump to content

Macgruber

Members
  • Content Count

    36
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About Macgruber

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  1. Thanks again for all the help! We are loving the tub and have been in it a total of 130 individual soaks in the last 2 weeks! Since you guys are so smart I figure I would pick your brains one last time. I have been using bromine in hopes that it would be a gentler alternative to Chlorine but my wife is getting raised bumps(just her) and I am find that it is giving me headaches, hurting my eye and just making me feel generally crappy. My values are all within acceptable range and since we are using the tub a fair amount I am shocking it every second day. I am going to give chlorine
  2. You're a genius! I changed it to the two and now it is behaving properly.. it must have just been in the filter cycle part of the program so it would run no matter what! thank you! thank you! thank you!
  3. I checked the cycle setting and it was set for C 4 which I am guessing it was set for 4hrs so I changed it to 2. But yes, the pump is just constantly running on low speed and the heating element will turn off or on based on the temp but the pump stays on. Set to P10 the pump just doesn't turn on at all with the heater.. the jets are only activated by the topside control.
  4. Alright, so I played around with some of the board settings and changed it to P12 ( I thought I had done this but and it didn't fix it but I guess i didn't) I changed it from P10 to P12 P10, P11 or P12 will appear. Press Jets One key to change operation. P10 = Pump 1 two speed with off position. P11 = Pump 1 single speed. P12 = Pump 1 two speed. When choice is made press Heat key to go to next mode. Do not use P12 if using a separate circ pump for filtration and heat. This has now allowed the pump to be running in low speed mode constantly thus negating the FL error! I
  5. Managed to adjust the FLC errors out of existence .. So really it seems to be 100% working with the exception of the pump starting with the heater when heat is called for.
  6. Sorry, didn't mean to be rude or lazy.. just didn't understand. The company is not great support wise but I am pretty sure the original wiring diagram still applies. It can be found here http://www.correct-tech.com/pdf/MINI-MAX-DIGITAL-SCHEMATIC_revised-copy.pdf I think I hooked up the board the same as previously hooked up with the exception of the pump being a 240v pump so the white is on J14. Super grateful!
  7. It is the same circuit board and diagram as the one at the start of this thread.... just new.
  8. After a bit more investigation the HL problem really seems to be that the pump is non kicking on with the heater.. so the coil turns on to heat but since no water is moving through it quickly reaches the high limit and shuts down until it cools off enough. Is there a way to wire the pump for constant low speed function? This would at least allow me to function in the short term. The jets can be controlled through the top panel... as long as I go out and press "jets" every half an hour the the error doesn't happen.
  9. I should also mention that one of the time it tripped to HL when I was right there watching it it did flash "hot" on the screen.
  10. Alright.. well I got the new board and switched it out. Unfortunately because I am a moron and overlooked an obvious issue when I started up the tub my filter popped and a good amount of water splashed onto the board. The breaker tripped really quickly and and after a lot of swearing I thoroughly dried everything out and fired up the tub. Now it seems that things are working but not properly.. and it was probably the water splash but I figure I would see is there is anything that can be done. I am now getting an HL error where the tub stops and needs to either sit for a bit or have the breake
  11. It is bloody cold here so I am just going to wait until the new board arrives and install it and run tests right away. Braved the cold for a couple minutes and test the heater; resistance in the element was 10 which from reading sounds good. I tested from theater terminal to ground and there was no continuity .. this is good right? The outside heater body did have continuity to ground but the posts themselves did not. If that isn't what you meant let me know.. and if I am interpreting the lack of continuity wrong also let me know! Thanks!
  12. Hmm.. well I am not sure what to think...thought a bunch of extra voltage where it shouldn't be would hurt it. What could cause that kind of damage and what are all the voltages/tests you would recommend to test to make sure I am not doing it to the new board? I will check the power to the pump, it is different pump than was installed when the board burned out.. I noticed it wasn't grounded so I will take care of that. The topside controller seems to be functioning fine.. which pretty much just leaves the heater... what tests should I perform on the heater to be sure the heater isn't ca
  13. My theory on why the board burned out in the first place is this: I didn't realize when we first got it going that the board could run at 240V or 120V and that depending on what your setup was you needed to change a setting using the control panel to tell the board which one to run at. I only figured this out after the issues started happening and I believe when the power was disconnected and reconnected it may have defaulted to the low current setting despite the fact that the high current wiring was in place... or vice versa. When I had the board plugged in I did set the board to the
  14. Ahh found the answer "A voltage specification of 115 volts means it will function correctly in the range of 110 to 120 volts. A device listed at 230 volts actually means it will function correctly in the range of 220 to 240 volts." So just so I understand ...I can wire the board for 240volts and if I hooked up the 115v pump with the white on neutral the pump can safely operate at 115v while the board receives 240v? My biggest fear is frying another board!
×
×
  • Create New...