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About r5ran

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    Spa Savant

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    Frozen North Shore of U.P. of Michigan

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  1. Hmmm, mine is a 2008, but I would think they should be the same.....it's been a while so I can't remember exactly what it looks like now. However I did find this video that explains it better than I can in words. It may be slightly different than yours, but It verifies you need to remove that actual valve after removing the knob, too. You should then be able to see an opening in the plastic that runs below each knob. Each opening has several other holes that are actually fittings that have hoses (that you can't see, cuz they are within the shell) that run to the various air jets. I am not at my home currently that has the tub, or I would check for you. If you still have issues and can wait, I will be back there the end of next week and will investigate. Thanks, Randy
  2. Hi, I did find the issue, and it was a simple fix. I popped off the air adj. valve dials (on top of tub, they just pry off) that went to the problem Moto-Massage and using an air compressor with an air blower end, blew air into each one. Bubbles came out if each air jet except for the problem MM. Assuming it was plugged somehow, I then took the air hose off the MM, and stuck the air valve into the jet, holding a towel to help seal around the air hose. This would reverse the usual air flow, and hopefully clear the line. When I released the air, it took a few seconds, but a piece of fuzzy garbage blew out of the removed air valve on top. So somehow, something got sucked in the air line and plugged that line. So if you have access to an air compressor, it’s an easy fix. Hope this helps, Randy
  3. Hi, You were right I did not see your request for an update until today. Sorry for my delay, hopefully you still read this forum and get my update...... So the original "beer" tubing lasted almost 2 years. Not as long as the HS tubing perhaps, but considering the cost savings, I consider it a success. However, as I mentioned in my earlier post, when I replaced the tubing again, I reordered and used thinner tubing. This was much more pliable and worked perfectly without any modifications. However, since the O.D. of this thinner tubing was too small for the press on collars on each end, I slid a short (about 1/2" long) piece of this same tubing over each end of the tube, that effectively made it the same O.D. as the HS stuff. This allowed the press on fittings on each end to hold perfectly. I now have replaced all 3 spines of my tub's MM and they all operate like new. I did check this thinner tubing after about a year's time, and while it was working fine, did see some aging and brittleness in it. So this tubing probably will need to be replaced a little more often. However, since it only cost a few dollars and about 15 minutes of time for each one, it's not a big deal and well worth it. Hope this helps........ BTW, the reason I saw this post again, is that I just discovered I was not getting any air out of my single MM lower (back) port (neck jets and all other air connections work fine). When I searched this forum for some help on my air issue, I saw this request for an update on my tubing experiment....I did write another post about my air issue, but if anyone reading this has any advice for me, it would be appreciated. Thank you, Randy
  4. Hi, I was wondering of you ever found an answer to your problem? I discovered the exact same issue with my single moto massage today. My neck jets (along with everything else that uses air) in that seat work fine, did yours? I was suspecting, since the neck jets worked, it was the air hose from the valve to the MM may have split or came off. I have not opened the covers to check this out at all, (it's too cold out there today!) However, it would seem to make sense, that a single air hose would feed both of the dials that control that seat's MM, then individual hoses would go from each dial to the shoulder/ back ports of the MM? Anyone know if my thinking is correct? I seldom use the single MM seat, so I may wait till it's warm again to tackle, but would appreciate any guidance. thank you, Randy
  5. Hi, Ok here are a few pics, I used your suggested free site, since this forum has such a small max pic size. Since this question was originally about the tub base, I started with that. Next pic is the build process, then the finished deck, many years ago. Then a night pic, and finally a recent pic from this spring, about 6 years later. No flowers planted yet, but note the outdoor shower (love that!, used every day) and the privacy fence, (neighbor cleared some trees and wife felt a little exposed! (). Hope this helps.... Thanks, Randy http://imagetwist.com/7sxhb2da2ol1/100_8497.jpg http://imagetwist.com/amugd2w8hot1/100_8527.jpg http://imagetwist.com/z5mchsz82yvi/100_9237.jpg http://imagetwist.com/27o7yozppgez/100_9253.jpg http://imagetwist.com/f5gkbmv2ue1u/IMG_20130616_152733_271.jpg http://imagetwist.com/y2ly06smxxfd/100_9305.jpg http://imagetwist.com/876biiiv737b/IMG_20170608_141626618_HDR.jpg
  6. Wow, I have not logged onto this site in over a year, only to have a few moments tonight, and found this request from over 6 years ago! I am on a road trip currently, but if you're still interested, will repost soon. I tried to update my photobucket account to enable 3rd party posting, but it wanted cash! Any photos that you are specifically interested in? Thanks, Randy
  7. Hi Dave, Thanks for your reply. That's pretty much how I was planning on attacking this bug (it's a friends and I am going there next week). Was not sure of the wire colors though, that will be helpful. If it is the thermal. is that replaceable or do you have to buy the whole pump? If it's not the pump, is there some type of relay that can be replaced, or again, do you have to replace the whole logic board? Thank you, Randy
  8. Hi Dave, Thanks for your reply. I have not had the covers off yet, so don't know where the clicking is coming from. It definitely sounds like a relay, though, hence my thinking logic board. However, if it is the thermal overload opening, I would think that could cause a relay to open, too? Each circuit has it's own thermal overload, doesn't that seems kind of unusual? Do you know of any test points I can put a meter on to verify if indeed a thermal is opening or where the failure is starting? Thanks for your help, and are there any other knowledgeable minds out there that have any other suggestions? Randy
  9. Hi, A good friend of mine asked me to help him out with a problem he is having with his hot tub, and I thought it best I run it by some experts before tackling. It's a 2006 or 07 Hot Spot Sorrento, (Watkins) with a single 2 speed pump that uses the lower speed for heating and filtration. The issue is, that when the pump turns on in low speed, (either by selecting it via the jets button or by itself for heating/filtration) it will run for a short time (about 10-30 seconds) then you'll hear a click, (most likely a relay), the motor will turn off, and the control panel display goes to all dashes and dots. It stays in this error mode until it is manually cleared. Pressing the jets button will always clear it, and the pump will restart, only to fail in low speed again. It does not fail at all in high speed mode. He already replaced the pressure switch and the thermistor, with no results. I have not opened the covers yet to investigate, but since the pump runs on high speed just fine, I am suspecting the relay or the logic board? Any help or advice on how to diagnose would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Randy
  10. Hi, just received my new spa cover from RH Tubs, and it seems like a nice cover and initially I was impressed....until I saw the big letters on the box, "Made in Mexico". Nowhere on their site do they state this. Now being someone who tries to buy American when possible, I would not of bought from this company. Just a FYI - I just verified that covers from "thecoverguy" (that also had very good reviews) are made in Clearwater, Florida. My next purchase will be from them. Hey, I know this does not matter to some of you, but for those like us to whom it does, I just want this fact known, as RHtubs sure does not inform the customer of this anywhere.
  11. You have a point, but since beer is made in high heat and has alcohol and other harsh ingredients, it may be just fine too. If it fails early, I'll let you know. Even if it lasts only a few years, I can just replace it for a couple bucks and a few minutes of time. Well worth it. Thanks, Randy
  12. Spoiledrotten, thanks for your reply, as I have been meaning to follow up on this but have been wanting to make sure my fix would work for an extended period of time, and to be honest, I have been a bit lazy in writing back, too. To sum it up.....Success! It took a little work but I was able to replace the hose on my HS spine and have it now functioning like new. Here's the details. The stock hose is a very soft silicone type hose with an approx. I.D of .5 " and an O.D. of .75", so the walls are about .125 thick. (1/8 of an inch) With a little searching, I found this exact size silicone hose available from a beer home brewing supply site. Seems that they use silicone tubing for home breweries! It was only $2.20 a foot, so I ordered 3 feet. With USPS shipping only about $3, this made the total less than $11. Figured even if it is a failure, it was worth a try. The tubing arrived a few days later, and it seemed very flexible and it gave me hope this may work. So, I cut off a 9" piece, removed the plastic spine and fittings from the old spine and carefully reassembled......and when I tried it in the tub....it barely moved..... Undaunted, looking at the Hot Springs tubing, I could see the top and bottom of the tube had a flat section (as Steve from HS mentioned) that made the tubing walls much thinner (about half as thick as the sides) at these points. It's obvious they did this so the tubing would flex up and down with very little resistance. I was tempted to take the easy way out, and order some thinner walled tubing, but since I already had this thicker stuff, thought I may try a few modifications. I removed the tubing and carefully ran the tubing back and forth across a drum sander, (you could use a belt sander too) removing some material with each pass. After a few passes, I could see I was creating a flat spot along the length of the tube, very similar to the HS tubing. Using calipers to check my progress, I sanded until my tubing was within a few thousandths of the HS stuff. I then reassembled and tried it out, and this time, success! I have used it about 4-5 nights now, and it has worked perfectly each time...... If I had to reorder, I would maybe try some thinner tubing, as I think tubing with the same size I.D. and an O.D of only .625 was available. While this would be more flexible and probably would not require any modifications, you then would have to somehow increase the O.D. to .75 at the threaded end for the collar to fit tight. Some tape wrapped around it would probably do the trick. This thinner tubing also may not be as durable as the thicker tubing I used. It's tough stuff! So, while my modifications sound like a lot of work, don't be mislead. Now that I know what needs to be done, anyone could do this in 15 minutes, and considering I have enough tubing to fix 3 more Moto massage spines for a paltry $11 (vs $360 for 4 new HS spines!), I consider it time well spent. I purchased my tubing from brewershardware.com . They were very helpful and shipped promptly. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask, I would be happy to help. Thanks, Randy
  13. Steve, Thanks for your effort and this very thorough answer. You are correct that this is a unique looking hose (with the flat sections, as you mentioned) that I obviously will not acquire exactly. However, before I received your reply, I did find an online source for some silicone tubing with the same I.D., O.D. and wall thickness for a minimal cost. I should be receiving it shortly and will give it a try. Even though, after your explanation, it most likely will not work, I think the few dollar investment was worth the risk. I'll let you know my results. As the previous reader, Preserved Swine, (love that name!) stated, I am not the only one to consider this. Also, I do not believe my chemistry is at fault here, as the hosing was torn exactly around the flare of the threaded end. The rest of the hose (and all the other M/M hosing) is in perfect shape, and reuseable, albeit about a 1/2 inch too short now. It is pretty obvious that when the plastic retainer (which is extremely tight) was slipped over this flare when it was originally constructed, it cut and/or weakened the hose at that point. It may have not been a deep enough cut for the hose to fail initially, but weakened it enough, that after flexing in operation, it failed prematurely. Thank you, Randy
  14. Hello, I've owned my HS Vanguard now for almost 6 years and love it, the only issues I have had have been minor and HS has been wonderful in assisting me (can't same for the dealer, but that's a whole other story). A few years back, my Moto massages were sticking and working slowly, a call to HS and they send me out new spines and air hoses, that promptly and easily took care of the problem. Seems these hoses lose their flexibility over time and don't move as easily. Recently my DX moto massage quit it's motion. Upon removal of the spines, I found that the tubing on one of them had split where it was attached to the threaded fitting. So it sounds like a new spine would be the quick fix. But I was wondering, if I could just replace the silicone tubing that goes up the center of the spine, instead of replacing the whole assembly? The fittings and plastic spine itself are fine and technically will never wear out. The tubing is always the issue when these have a problem. So HS experts, does anyone know the specifics of this tubing, (inside/ outside I.D., thickness, etc...) and where it can be purchased? Just seems to make sense to make an attempt to replace this tubing for a few bucks vs paying $90 each for all the unneeded hardware of the entire assembly? My first thought will be some medical supply places, but I thought I would run this by our HS experts first. Thanks in advance! Randy
  15. "No electric spa under 11 KW will keep up with the temperature drop, especially with wind, there is simply more energy transfer than the heaters can deal with." I'm no expert, but that statement about not being able to keep up with a windy day (especially in such warm weather), does not seem realistic. Just to double check, when my wife and I went out in our 08 H/S Vanguard the other night, the water temp was 101 when we started. We were in the tub about 40 minutes with both pumps and the aerators in 3 seats on for about 30 of those minutes. The air temp was in the mid 30s and the wind was howling 25-30 mph...I checked the temp after we were done, and it was still a solid 101, just like always. Occasionally I will see it drop to 100, but the thermostat will kick on and always have no problem bringing it back up to the proper temp. No matter how windy or even in temps well below zero. It seems to me that this Marquis has a problem and should be able to do the same. Just my 2 cents....thanks, Randy
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