CanadianSpaTech

Ok in first photo you have the male end of the heater disconnected and in your hand. At the female end there are 2 tabs. Do you get 240VAC across those 2 tabs with the sensors attached and the spa calling for heat. (leave the sensors attached the likely hood of it being a sensor issue is nil) I frequently see the Balboa boards with the plug in heater quick disconnect that burnt out the relays. If you look inside the male end of the quick connect plug (the part you are holding pic 1) you will see that it has 2 little clips for lack of a better word the are suppose to sandwich on either side of the tab in the female end on the board. I think this connection is the cause of burnt relays on theses boards. To me they just don't seem to grip tight enough and a little play IMO can cause arching and burnt relays. I often delete the male end altogether and use spade connectors onto the tabs in the female end. Remove the board from the housing and look on the back for burnt or darkened areas around the relays. Post photos of the backside of the board. Take the board to a professional electronics repair shop and replace ALL the relays. JMO

What are you trying to find out about it? These types of spas get labeled and re-labeled all the time.

Very Little. A day, A week, A Month? What is quickly What testing method are you using...Test strips, drops? When was the last time you cleaned the cell? Do you use a stain and scale remover What is your water source? Well or tap. Do you fill with softened water? What range are you in? are you between 100 and 120 PPM? http://www.inclear.ca/incleartroubleshooting not much info here on ph troubleshooting but there is a link to the manual and might be good to browse through.

With the 2 heater wires coming off the circuit board not connected to the heater and the sensors plugged in do you get 240VAC across those 2 wires and the breaker holds? (Make sure the spa is calling for heat when testing) If yes then the heater is somehow the problem or a bad GFCI. If no then the issue is likely on the board and I would be pulling the board and looking on the backside for evidence of a burnt heater relay. Did the electrician test the GFCI? How old is the GFCI? But is there 240 going to the heater? Don't think the heater would get power without the sensors attached

Nope. I got a guy...and charge the customer an extra $60 to drive the board 20 mins to him to have it done.. and get this I think he has found a fix for the dreaded Gecko HR error code.

If you put the temp down 5 degrees below actual temp does the pump then shut off after 1 or 2 mins? Post pics of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover. Make sure we can see the little red box along the bottom edge of the circuit board called "Dip Switches" in one of the photos

@RDspaguy second from left.

Could it be a drain if there is a leak on the other side to release water from inside the cabinet?

Remove and check the plug where it attaches to the side of the spa pack. Check the female end for burn marks. If that connection is clean it sounds to me like both speeds are coming on at the same time due to a stuck/burnt relay on the circuit board. Post pics of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover. Relays can be replaced fairly cheap through a local electronics person if you can find one in your area. I suggest replacing all the relays while you are at it.

Replace them all. Relays are fairly inexpensive. My guy is usually under $150 CDN. Remove the board and have a look on the backside for darkened or burnt areas around the relays Seems odd that a new board would fail so quickly are you sure you are testing it correctly? Did you have the same symptoms with the old board?

Remove the pump 1 from the circuit board noting the wiring order and test for power coming off the board with the pump button pushed for both low and then hi and see if you have 2 speeds off the circuit board

What I read in the VL200 product description is that it is a LT Duplex panel or Light Duplex panel and A3 should be down but I guess that is for larger Balboa topsides. Need more coffee.

Nice pad. Well done. When I make them I do the same for the most part but I build it to the exact size of the spa's base so it under cuts the side panels and water runs to the ground and not onto the wood frame work. Then back fill in between the joists with limestone screenings flush with the top edge of the wood frame to lock it in place and keep animals from living in the void. I thoroughly wet down the limestone and pack/tamp it place. The limestone will be just like concrete when dry. Then no need for a wood deck on top...unless you want a wood deck.

Why?

Was kinda hoping we could see the board installed to see how everything is wired and how the dip switches were set. The VL200 topside is a light Duplex panel and although it is also called a mini oval it is not a Mini Panel. So dip switch A3 should be in the down position. Product description VL200 LCD Top Side Spa Controller with Warm, Jets, Temp, Light button PN 52144 is an 4-button VL200 Light Duplex LCD Control panel. It can be used with the duplex spa packs such as the VS501Z, GS501Z, etc. Comes with 7ft cable with 7-pin RJ45 ethernet style connector. Do you have the spa wired 120VAC or 240VAC and is the new pump 120 or 240? Not sure it is going to fix your problem but make the change and let us know results.

Post photos of circuit board and schematic on inside cover

That's a definite maybe Reset the breaker and wait until it gets to PR then press temp up button once. Does the pump start in low speed or high speed? (assuming there is no circulation pump) If it starts in high speed swap the red and black wires around at the pump. Any time you get a error code on the display remove the filters and run without them until the issue is fixed. New, old, just cleaned remove them. Make sure water level is high enough and above the filters Make sure all gate/slice valves are pulled up Post photos of circuit board and schematic on inside cover

Lol... I really gotta read what people post...lol @RDspaguy thanks for the backup the other day

Please confirm the white wire coming from pump 1 receptacle is going to J14 Incoming power wires looks good to me. Was the original pump 120VAC? @Macgruber

Dirty filters? Remove the filters and reset the breaker. Leave the filters out until the issue is fixed. New, old, just cleaned... remove them. Not likely an electrical capacity issue. What brand of spa? Do you have and can you work a multi meter to check voltages Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover of the pack.

J29.... Heater Disable Switch Connection. If J29 is shorted by any means, the heater will not run until J29 is no longer shorted. If J29 is shorted during power-up “J29” will appear on the panel. The message can be dismissed with a button press, and is the only control panel notification of J29 being shorted. No message is displayed if J29 is shorted after power-up, but the heater will not run until J29 is no longer shorted. J29 expects a switch closure (not a voltage) as the command signal. In some areas, a local power company may offer discounts based on voluntary “power shedding” devices that may be installed in conjunction with the spa. Can you post photos of the circuit board as well as the schematic on the inside cover. @RDspaguy Your the Balboa guru any thoughts on this.

a new thread

I Charge $100 per hour as well (CDN though) so I think that's like $15/hour USD...lol @RDspaguy

Use a 2 part epoxy like Devcon plastic weld or Devcon 5 minute epoxy and it will outlast the dinosaurs. You can also use it to plug the open end.

https://www.diypartcenter.com/products/vita-spa-ozonator-coupler-reducer-3-8-inch-barbed-x-1-4-inch-barbed-vit470207 Drill hole for 3/8" end and Devcon 2 part plastic weld epoxy into hole