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About darkmyst

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  1. I’ll know for absolute sure when my stuff arrives, but high bromine should be a non-issue at this point. I’ve let it sit for quite some time without generating and letting it dissipate The color clearly indicates 7.8 at this point as well. So assuming the bromine is within range or lower, and I want to try to lower it to 7.6, how would it be advised that I do this?
  2. Hi waterbear, thanks again for your help. I've got the extra stuff on the way still, but I've let the water, bromine, etc settle down these past few days and the pH appears to have settled at 7.8. Although within range, do you have any advice on how that could be lowered to perhaps 7.6 if I wanted to lock it a bit lower to give myself more time for upward drifting? Thanks!
  3. Hi, To clarify again, I turned off the bromine generator last night and it’s reading 0 this morning and does not have a bromine smell anymore.
  4. I turned off the bromine generator last night and tested again this morning, it’s now reading 0. I also ran out of DPD powder, so I’ll have to wait to get that. The red color of the pH indicator with the Taylor test isn’t easily identifiable so I’m going to swing by the pool store to have their equipment read it. I’ll update when I have news.
  5. Update: Bromine eventually started generating. It's at night now, and I just got home, but it looks like after the Gentle Spa was added to approximately 50ppm borates, and after 30 minutes of jets, the pH appears to be around 7.8. I'm not sure if I should make further efforts to lower this to closer to 7.6 or 7.4? If yes, do I secure it with additional borates by lowering to 7.0 or so and adding more? Or am I being too picky and let it rest at 7.8? I will check it again in the morning, I only have an inside light to hold it against. Bromine is high. Apparently when it started working, it
  6. Seems like I'm just not getting any luck recently. I'm now getting no indication of bromine after adding the sodium bromide even though the generator says it's generating bromine. Doing some troubleshooting on this front and will report back further....
  7. Ok, an update: I finally got my borate test strips in. Even the LoMotte brand is kind of hard to read. Anyway, I added the borate, and it looks like it's around 50. The pH actually seemed to drift down slightly (granted, the water has been sitting for a couple of days since my last test). Either way, in my case that's good news. Ultimately with borates the pH seemed to drift around 7.6 - *after* aeration. I then added in the sodium bromide. The salt generator hasn't done anything yet. I re-tested with jets off and it was the same. However, after introducing aeration it climbed back u
  8. Hi @waterbear Thank you again for all of your help. Today I drained and refilled the spa. I have not added sodium bromide yet. I just filled the tub, got the water to temperature and started adjusting the pH and TA. The TA is sitting at roughly 50, but so far the pH is wanting to stay at or drift around 8.0 after aeration. CH is low, around 140 or so. I'm wondering if the borates will help? So here's my next round of questions: 1. Should I continue to lower my TA to resolve this, or is there any type of danger or concern with going much lower than 50? 2. Should I add
  9. Hi @waterbear I think the water discomfort may have been due to some of the chemicals still possibly fully taking in effect, e.g. I jumped the gun to test too soon. It seems ok now. I'm pretty confident that how I'm using the Taylor kit is on point, it's just a matter of getting things balanced and learning this process first-hand. I use the Taylor 2106 FAS-DFD kit. At this point I was able to get the TA to 50 and the pH to around 7.4 before the jets. When I turned on the jets, the pH jumped to 8.0. Acid demand with one drop showed it would go to 7.8, so I am confident it's not
  10. So I went ahead and got the TA down to 50, and the pH was down to about 7.0-7.2. I started the jets, and ran them for about 15 minutes. The pH quickly jumped to 7.8 This still seems like a dramatic jump for 15 minutes of jets. In the past, the pH has never really settled back down or lowered after the jets came on, so I only anticipate further quick rise from here. Often times when we're in the spa, we're in for an hour, sometimes even more. Additionally, as I was dipping my hands into the water to get my samples, the water seemed to irritate the hand and arm I used quite
  11. Hi @waterbear. Today, for my first test with your advice, I got the TA of the spa down to 70, and the pH to 7.4; so the higher ranges of what you suggested. I ran the jets for about 15-20 mins, waited about 10 minutes after the jets stopped and tested again. My Taylor kit only goes up to 8.0 on the pH indicator but it looks like the pH is sitting at 7.8 at a minimum; possibly 8.0; it looks pretty close to both. For such a short duration of having the jets on, it still skyrocketed very quickly. I will test again after letting it sit for awhile longer, but I'd love your thoughts abo
  12. This is just all very surprising to me, because even the in.clear salt water system, which is designed specifically for hot tubs, calls for a 100-120 TA in their own manual. My spa manufacturer recommends numbers in a similar range. And every retailer and every manual I've read suggests to set TA first and pH second. If this information is accurate, then I feel like just about every spa manual, salt generator manual, and water chemistry website would need to update their guidance. I also worry that with such a low TA, my pH would literally be all over the place and that I'd have to check
  13. My bromine levels are not anywhere close to 10, I keep it between 3-5ppm. So I guess the phenol red theory is out. Won't a TA of 50-70 cause the water to be incredibly corrosive and dangerous to the equipment? Such a low TA goes against every source for this spa, from the manufacturer and manual to the in.clear documentation (which suggests 100 to 120). What do you recommend using to lower TA by such a dramatic amount? Muriatic acid or dry acid? Do you recommend doing this directly in the spa or diluting it first? (For muriatic acid, I use Acid Magic) FYI - in the testing I've done p
  14. So, an update. I just read an article here: https://www.askalanaquestion.com/bromine_for_pools.htm that suggests that the red phenol used to measure pH can have an interaction with bromine, so my Taylor test kit may be off. This whole thing was new to me. However, even strips show a deep red. So I took my water to a pool shop down the street that has a fancy water testing machine. TA and calcium hardness were great (130 and 124, respectively) but pH was measured at 8.6. However, he also told me his machine can only read as high as 8.6-8.7. So, we're putting in 4 tablespoons of pH down and we'l
  15. @CanadianSpaTech I can get the pH to stay lower until until I turn on the jets, although it does creep up even when they're off. The moment the jets turn on, the pH rises dramatically and stays there. I use a Taylor test kit to measure the results and I have test strips as well. The cell gets cleaned about once a year. It looks good. The bromine generation is on point. I used to use a stain and scale remover but was advised by my spa manufacturer that I should not be with the bromine salt generator. I believe they mentioned something about it having an opposite effect on the bro
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