Cusser

I have a CalSpa from 1988. To me, sounds like the pump is not putting out sufficient pressure to make the pressure switch contacts energize, to keep it running. On yours, I wonder if you need to bypass that safety thing and not just disconnect t....my 1988 does not have that "feature".

Epoxy will not stick to polyethylene or polypropylene.

I'd install some shut off valves so you can access the filter easier. I did this on my old Cal-Spa last year.

A dozen years ago I bought a submersible pump from Home Depot, in stock, to drain my 3500 gallon above-ground pool. Since then I have also used it on my jacuzzi-type spa, something like http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-HP-Submersible-Sump-Pump-with-Tether-SBA025BC/205617271 Harbor Freight Tools has some for a little less, all plug into 120 VAC receptacle (ground-fault type). You will need a $2 screw in hose barb, and the plastic drain hose. As to vacuum for a hot tub, that's a great question. Currently I'm using a 2-gallon wet/dry shop vac, but I have to work real fast as it fills up quickly and I have to dump the water. I really need a 5-gallon one for that, but that's larger to store. So I'm still looking; the type that uses a garden hose lets fine particles through the mest, so not so great.

Wouldn't the water level also be higher than the top of the skimmer, so it would suck in water but not skim off surface stuff ?

An algae-filled pool will neutralize chlorine shock VERY quickly, and everyday shocking would cost a fortune, and likely not work. Shocking works well as preventative and when algae first appears. I have a 4000 gallon vinyl above-ground pool and a $50 submersible pump from Home Depot, and I have drained the pool practically every other year since I got it in 2000. When I had algae when opening up pool one spring, I pumped out 98% of the water, then shocked the rest. I don't understand the $1200 quote to drain and re-fill.

I use a Leak Seal liquid about 3 times a year; I have a 1988 CalSpa and the leak is NOT at the equipment area, and I cannot locate the leak. So I use that, primarily to help protect the redwood from rotting.

Wow - just looked at the photos, and see this post was a several weeks back. Terrible and shoddy work, absolutely. If you paid in full by credit card, tell pool company that you will be disputing the charge with the credit card company. If you did not pay all, then don't until ALL is fixed. You may end up going to small claims court, don't know if such company is bonded or licensed....good luck. My 16-year-old 15-foot above-ground pool had none of the issues....

1. If a pool filter gets clogged, then flow will be reduced until the dirt clogging the filter is backwashed out. Also a leaf-catch basket in the pump needs to be cleaned out manually. 2. Using the pool while filter is running is normal, but if there's a lot of splashing and movement, then air can get in the line between the pool and the pump, and pumps are not designed to suck and pump air. So that may be happening, maybe you want to just try turning off the pump while you are swimming; I think Intex states shutting off while swimming anyway (see #3 below). 3. I hope you have dedicated real wiring and a GFCI circuit for this pool. I suspect most with above ground pools may just run an extension cord for power, definitely not recommended.

I have Hayward S166T sand filter on my above-ground pool, and this called for sand only (I used pool sand from pool supply store). However, in your case, I doubt that you're going to ever notice the difference from what you added and what was recommended.

How much would replacement part be from manufacturer? Call them. If the housing is polyethylene or polypropylene, then glue and epoxy will not stick. In that case I'd try a plastic-welding kit, like from Harbor Freight tools, if there is access to the hole (better to try to seal from inside surface if possible. If just an accessible "hole", consider a rubber sealing washer and a small screw.

So you're getting 110 VAC to the heater element? I'd turn off electricity, disconnect the leads to the heater element, and read ohms resistance across the heater element.

I have to ask: you are using a spa cover, correct? If so, carefully check to see if 110VAC is getting to the heating element. Now, the heating element was also changed to 110V one, correct?

Did you try tightening the big plastic "nut" a hair ?

Most likely. Like a home vacuum cleaner, a motor or pump pulls the dirt which is caught on a filter bag (home) or your pool filter. As these filters clog, there is less throughput, that is: less suction (and reduced flow/pressure returning to the pool). Are you able to set the filter control to "discharge" or "waste" and then do your vacuuming? That would show to be a clogged filter cartridge, or just try a brand new cartridge.

About a decade ago, I installed an evaporative cooler float-arm type fill valve with my above-ground pool, ran a 1/4 inch copper line to it from a brass fitting for my outside hose line. I buried that copper line under the grass, goes up side of pool, home-made bracket clamps onto the top edge. Works great. Phoenix, so understand that anything using a pressurized water hose in Phx or Las Vegas heat won't last too long.

I'm just guessing, but think that the weight of the water will press the liner as far out as it can go. When I drained my above ground pool in 2015 and had 1/3 of the liner off the sand and sides (to fix a seam leak in a 2-week old liner that Doughboy was fighting with me about warranty coverage), I pressed it back into position with my feet as I was refilling. So you might need to help it with your feet or maybe a pool brush.

If it's a legitimate place, then there should be zero pressure to complete the deal "today". You came in today, their cost for that unit is exactly the same whether you sign today, or 3 days from now. That's typical sales BS to try to pressure a customer.

My pool came with a new Hayward pump and Hayward S166T high rate sand filter with SP0714T series vari-flo XL valve. I had water leaks typically where the 1.5 inch plastic hose barbs screwed in, just let it leak as it was small. But I also had a crack on the tank neck, even though I had not overtightened the clamp the ONE time I had the SP0714T valve off and took the valve in for a new seal. So I thought the easiest thing would be to buy a brand-new Hayward S166T sand filter as it would fit right in, so I did about 1.5 years ago, and opened it up to add sand and get it ready. Well that one has never been opened since then and it also has a crack on the neck and leaks water out there and out the seal under the valve when the pump is running. The filter tank appears to be polypropylene so most glues will not work with that. So let's just say that I am NEVER going to buy a Hayward filter again. If anyone has any ideas to help me, I'm open to help. My pool has an automatic fill valve so even with this small leak + evaporation my water level is OK. By the way, the genuine Hayward skimmer basket SP-1094-FA cracks readily if it gets leaves in it which causes the pump suction to be greater. I have typically reinforced these using 3 small cable ties. Unfortunately the aftermarket skimmer baskets are even more breakable.

The part that spins and pushes the water through is called the impeller. ThermosSpa doesn't make this pump, they buy it. Contact them 1-800-833-7727 to find out what brand of pump they used; hopefully they'll tell you. Otherwise, take some good photos, contact some online spa replacement parts dealers, etc. The entire pump that bolts on to your motor is typically called the "wet end", and those can also be purchased.

Don't tell me that in the 28 years since I got my spa that no manufacturer has salt water/electrolytic generation of chlorine?

What would you tell a newbie about how to use a hot tub? The seller told me this is less efficient because it's older (like $40-$50 a month extra hydro costs), is there any way I can make it more efficient? The seller also told me he only puts in a chlorine puck every few days in terms of chemicals and just empties the water a lot- is that really a good way to do things? Susie - does this spa use propane, natural gas, or electricity to heat? Mine uses electricity, my costs with chemicals are well under half that; there haven't been much improvements in heating efficiency - physics is physics - but good insulation really helps a lot. #1 you MUST use a cover when not in use, keeps the heat in #2 bromine tablets should be used, less eye irritation that chlorine tablets (maybe yours actually generates disinfectant electrically)

Before I installed custom plumbing with new shut-off valves for my spa (27 years old at that time) I investigated replacing the internal-leaking gate valve/knife valve on the right (like yours in your photo) which would've required re-connecting flexible hose like the type you have leaking in your video. I was told that the flex tubing is PVC, so could cut and glue using traditional PVC cement. So maybe you could cut at the source of the leak and glue/insert a PVC union (like from Home Depot) or a barbed union there to repair. You could use a standard utility knife to cut the hose. First you may want to clean/dry and just try PVC cement, build up a thickness.

If it's really a single hole in the plastic housing and the remainder of the housing still looks OK, maybe try plastic welding kit from Harbor Freight. The heat unit gets hot enough to melt plastic (and plastic welding rods) but not so hot that the plastic burns. It has helped me a dozen times in last year (mostly on automotive stuff).

I'd contact Caldera support directly, there "has to" be an exploded/parts diagram available somewhere. If there truly is a leak under that giant plastic "retaining nut", likely it is an O-ring making the seal. But that means draining taking it apart and then trying to match up with a new or slightly-thicker O-ring. Lots of pool stores, Ace Hardware carry a bunch of loose O-rings. I'd use a little pool silicone-type lube on the O-ring when I'd re-install. Should not need to super-tighten that big plastic "retaining nut" either.