JWL

Thank you. I only did the jumping briefly to see if it would look closed and trigger the pump. It did not.

Arctic Spa Cub circa 2005. Refilled the tub to restart it and get a 4.00 and a 507 code displayed when I turn the circuit breaker back on. Then switches to FLO code. I've refilled it through the filter housing and "burped" it where the heater connects with spa tubing so I don't think it is air lock. Water is not running. I replaced the pressure switch in the spring and it was working fine (shut it down for the summer). I jumped the pressure switch connections and it did not resolve the problem. Showed code 71 when I did that. Spa pack is original (18 years), pump is about 5 years old. Any idea what my problem is?

OUCH!

Total team effort. Tried to spread the love around to all who helped. Apologies to @CanadianSpaTech if you didn't feel acknowledged/appreciated (although I think I detected that you're mostly jokin around). I was SOOOOO far off the mark when I started that I am amazed that you two figured it out. Who Finally got the parts today from a local shop who still has a sales desk open so I could bring in my parts and get the right replacements. Might have paid a bit more than I would have from Lowes, but their advice is certainly helpful and I feel more confident I have the right parts for a hot tub. Hopefully the 2" PVC will fit properly into the Arctic Spa flex hose and I can get a good seal.

Thanks. I am looking for SCH 40 PVC pipe and fittings, correct?

There is a 45* elbow in the section that I removed that is from Waterway part #411-2200 45° Ell - 2" Spigot x 2" Spigot. It appears to be 2-3/8 OD and 2" ID. I am replacing: Existing 2-3/8 ID pipe >> check valve with 2-3/8 OD >> 4" 2-3/8 ID pipe >> 45* elbow 2-3/8 OD/2" ID >> 4" of 2-3/8 ID pipe >> Tailpiece 2-3/8 OD that is a union connection to heater pipe So I think my best bet is either: 1. Existing 2-3/8 ID pipe >> ball valve with 2-3/8 OD and 2" ID >> 6" of 2" pipe >> Existing 45* elbow 2-3/8 OD/2" ID >> 4" of 2-3/8 ID pipe >> Tailpiece 2-3/8 OD 2. Existing 2-3/8 ID pipe >> coupling with 2-3/8 OD and 2" ID >> 4" of 2" pipe >> ball valve with 2" ID >> 4" of 2" pipe >> Existing 45* elbow 2-3/8 OD/2" ID >> 4" of 2-3/8 ID pipe >> Tailpiece 2-3/8 OD I prefer #1 would have less fittings and more room to work but it requires the right ball valve. #2 would have all the fittings with minimal piping in between which is always a bit tricky based on experience with ABS under sinks.

I finally got my head back in the tub and cut out the check valve. The flapper was completely disconnected. Kudos to @RDspaguy for the correct diagnosis despite all my descriptions. So now the next trick will be to find the parts to connect to the 2-3/8 ID piping. Would like to be walking into a store with the parts in hand but that ain't happening any time soon. Hopefully my local hot tub store is available to buy parts.

You got a legitimate laugh out loud from me on that one. Thank you for being so generous with your time and expertise. It is greatly appreciated.

Glad you mentioned that. I've read mixed posts on whether to use primer on flex hose or not.

I'd think you guys would be "exhausted" after all the advice you've provided! 😀 Based on the motor sounds and checking the impeller, I'm reasonably confident that the motor is OK (I guess I ought to re-name the thread!). I'm sure the problem is between the pump and the diverter because I removed the diverter controller when we were diagnosing and there wasn't a lot of waterflow to the diverter. The only things between the pump and the diverter on my tub are the heating tube (I'll check it this morning) and the check valve. We know the check valve wasn't holding water back when I tried to rely on it when removing the motor. By pushing a piece of clear tube the check valve, there didn't appear to be any resistance (from a spring to close it) which is consistent with the check valve valve not operating properly. And then there is the clunking sound that happens when I initially turn on low speed. That could be the water pressing the loose check valve cover to the far end of the check valve case (where it is not supposed to be) and preventing water flow. If I turned on the low speed again soon it would not make that sound, probably because the cover is already at the far end of the check valve case. If I left the tub for a while I would get the clunk again, probably because the cover had floated away from the far end of the check valve case and was then being slammed to close the opening. During one cycle of going through low speed to high speed, the water movement was noticeably better (not close to good, but a little better). That could be the loose flap just getting into position where it was obstructing the flow a little less. If it isn't the check valve I'll have spent some time/effort and $30 of materials to replace the 15 year old check valve with a new ball valve. It will be my first tub pipe repair but I've done lots of ABS plumbing drain work, so I should be OK. These are the materials I'm getting (my buddy has some 2" PVC pipe from a repair he did). https://www.lowes.ca/product/ball-valves/2-in-dia-pvc-sch-40-socket-in-line-ball-valve-21489 https://www.lowes.ca/product/pipe-cements-primers-cleaners/oatey-8-fl-oz-pvc-cement-and-primer-876451

To help clarify what I'm asking about water pressure, I have attached 2 diagrams. In both the water is flowing from the heater at the bottom, to the diverter valve at the top. There is only a 1/2" of pipe between fittings so I am going to need to add some pipe/hose somewhere. Would the Alternative 1 reduce water pressure to the jets vs the Current?

Ball valve it is. If I can't get any of the Arctic Spa 2-3/8" flex hose, and I use 2" OD PVC pipe for part of piping coming out of the heater, will I lose much/any pressure out of the jets? Or does the pressure remain the same and the water effectively just moves faster through the PVC pipe?

I removed the motor and tested the impeller using the screw slot at the end of the motor. The impeller is firmly on the shaft and both move freely. So it looks like all is good there. Unfortunately I can't see down the hose on the pressure side of the pump as there is a 45* fitting before the check valve. But I did feed a 1/2" clear hose down and once I was able to get past the hard edges I did get it through the check valve with no apparent resistance. Meaning I think the check valve is definitely open and there is no spring or anything closing it. I can't picture any way of fishing it out. It shouldn't fit through towards the pump since it is designed to cover that opening. Which also means it likely won't fit through the other end of the check valve fitting either. So unless there are any other ideas I guess I'll cut that out and get pipe and fittings to replace. Hopefully I won't have to buy the 50' roll for $200 that the Cdn Arctic Spa store is offering! If check valves are problematic, should I replace it with a ball valve instead? Or just a coupling as hopefully removing the motor won't be a common occurrence.

yay! 😨

A loose flap might also explain the "clunk" I'm hearing sometimes when turning on the low speed. If I am removing the check valve, it would be the same amount of work to replace it with another vs a coupling, correct? But I suppose it could fail again whereas a coupling won't.