geeman

Pool Clown is right. You don't want to plaster a zero depth entry. Replace the glass tile with an un-glazed, slip resistant pool tile.

On a freshly plastered pool, you should find that the Calcium level will slowly rise on it's own during the first 28 days. New plaster produces calcium during the curing process. Adding too much Calcium too soon may result in excessive calcium hardness levels after the 28 days. The only way to reduce ch is to partially drain and re-fill with fresh water with a lower ch. If your levels are not rising on their own, you may need to add a little calcium to bump it up. Maybe go to 100 to 150 and see what happens. If after 28 days, your ch is not at 200ppm, add enough calcium to bring your level up to 200. The use of Cal-hypo will add to your calcium hardness (and chlorine levels), but this could take a long time.

Efflorescence, or a calcium build-up, on your tile is a sure sign of loose tile. Gently run the head of a hammer across your tile line. Loose tile will sound hollow. If your tile is loose, this will continue to happen until the tile is replaced.

The initial cure of the plaster (60%) takes place during the first 28 days. During this time, it is crucial not to "traumatize" plaster. Also during this time, you are most likely adding acid and brushing the pool frequently to promote an even cure. Basically, you want to give the plaster and water enough time to stabilize before adding salt. Adding salt to soon will throw everything off; TDS, Calcium levels, pH and Alkalinity, etc... This will often result in an uneven cure or discolorations as well as scale.

Hopefully you waited at least 28 days to add the salt.

You probably used spackle, which will get soft if re-wetted. Plaster is a mixture of cement and aggregate and most often calcium as an accelerator - there is a chemical reaction making it hard. Wetting of plaster only enhances the cure.

We require our customers to get tanker water. We want our plaster completely submersed within 24 hours to avoid excessive check cracking and possible delamination. You also need a continuous fill - not interrupted. Do not skimp out on water!

I believe that clay tiles are not frost-proof. If you live in an area that experiences freeze/thaw, go with a confirmed frost-proof tile or it will spall or chip.

sprinkling some DE around the perimeter of your pool deck will keep worms from getting to the pool. they don't like the DE. it scratches and kills them. poor worms.

What exactly do you mean by a tile strip? Is this a plastic strip that the tile adheres to? I've only seen that on Liner pools.

When drained and refilled, plaster goes through a dehydration/rehydration cycle. If there is a shallow depression (probably not detectable by sight), the water may have puddled a bit keeping this area wet which would probably make it appear darker. Once the rest of the plaster was submersed and rehydrated to the same degree the "stain" disappeared. Just a theory. Plaster does do weird things, especially when dry. It likes being wet.

When in doubt, add the retaining wall. I just looked at a pool Monday that is 8 years old - same situation. He had 3 builders out when he built the pool - 1 guy suggested a retaining wall and the other 2 said don't bother. The pool shell is so severely cracked that it is beyond repair and out of warranty. The plumbing lines broke too. It is a total disaster and his only option is to now eliminate the pool and build a new one including the retaining wall that should have been put in the first time. Some builders will do anything to sell a job even if they know they are doing wrong. They don't want to loose a job because of cost over someone else that wants to do things the right way. Spend the money to do it right the first time or spend twice later to fix shortcut mistakes.

Wait it out, see what happens in a few days.

Is the skimmer in the pool or the spa? Is it a raised spa? A lot of guys are not installing main drains because they do not want to be responsible for any related injuries. Modern pool cleaners take its place. You would have to set up a separate pump if you ever wanted to drain the pool.

Why so angry jrandleas? If the contractor is willing to admit that he screwed up (twice) and offers to replaster the pool with the same finish at no cost to his customer, what's the problem? As long as he does it right this time. Sounds like a pretty stand-up guy to me even with the hassle and inconvenience of more construction for the customer. I am sure that he would rather do things the right way the first time and have a happy customer. Give him a chance to do so, what's to lose. If he does screw it up again, these postings and his letter of admittance alone could build a case against him. The contractor surely realizes this fact. And why not offer your customer a better finish. So what if he makes a little money to cover his costs. He's still losing time and money. It's not like he will be the only one to benefit. As the customer, I would definitely consider upgrading if I had the chance to. Quartz finishes are stronger than marble and will look better for a longer period of time. Re-plaster the pool and do the upgrade - everyone is happy. In a world where everyone is quick to sue rather than talking things out like civilized and intelligent people, I commend both the customer and contractor here. Cheers.

make sure that the rebar is clean and all rebound is removed. if they stopped on a wall it should be at a 45 degree angle. use a bonding agent to wet the area before re-shooting. good idea taking pics and putting something in writing.

it could be scale which is common with swg pools. are the stains rough to the touch?

You probably have a check valve that needs to be replaced. They have rubber gaskets and springs that go bad over time.

Cheap tabs can and will disintegrate, especially when they are smaller or almost totally dissolved. I've seen it happen and I've seen it put streaks on gray plaster mostly. Good point with the parking bit, it can also corrode plaster if it gets hung up often. Again, especially if it is a pigmented plaster.

If it is the relief plug you can not pressure test it like plumbing. The only way I am aware of is to scuba dive and perform a dye test to see if water is leaking. Normally, the pressure from the water in the pool keeps this plug closed and it only opens if the pool is empty and there is pressure from underneath but perhaps there is a bad gasket or something. Have you ever let the water go down without adding water? The pool will leak until it reaches the source of the leak. A very common place to loose water is through the conduit in the back of the light niche. If the pool is leaking from the light the water will stop at the light. If it keeps going, look for a return line. If it goes beyond that then it may be in the main drain or the plug as you suspect. You could try the dye test at the light. You would have to take the light out and hold your breath long enough to squirt dye where the electric cord comes through the conduit. Its not easy to do without scuba gear. Good luck.

I am a pool plasterer in PA. We use Silicone Shield in every plaster job we do with good results. It not only helps to prevent staining, but strengthens the mix. We don't do any jobs without it so I have nothing to compare it to though. Nothing replaces proper start-up and maintenance and no plaster finish is perfect. If you want a more durable finish, try the 3M Colorquartz in white along with the S.S. I believe it is worth the extra cost. We are using 3M in about 65% of all our pools and have had zero complaints going back about 5 years.

find a new husband. just kidding. your only option may be to wait out the drought, drain the pool, cut out the spots and patch with new plaster.

replastered pools should not be drained. It may cause bond failure. Lightly acid wash the pool and fill it back up asap.

You can use cement to install the steps. I have drilled holes in the shell behind where the steps will be. In these holes, I epoxied in pieces of rebar to help support the steps. You may want to mask off and spray the rebar with rustoleum. Fill the back cavity of the steps with cement and push them into the recessed area and over the rebar. Use duct tape or something to help support the steps until the cement dries. Remove the tape and fill in any surrounding voids with more cement before you paint.

I agree, the first coat of plaster should have been completely chipped out and then replastered. Replasters over existing plaster would typically be prepped via sandblasting and/or acid washing and bondcoating. These pools should not be drained. Draining of a replastered pool with a bondcoat will most likely cause delamination. If you drain the pool to patch the holes you will probably cause even more plaster to become hollow or pop-off. Home depot sells Aquamend, an underwater epoxy that you can use as a temporary fix. You will eventually have to replaster your pool again. Your best bet is to remove all of the existing plaster or at least the top coat. Waterblasting can remove the top coat and leave the original coat very rough which is good for the new plaster to stick to. No bondcoat required. Be sure to fill the pool within 24 hours of plaster completion.