Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    The Pacific
  • Gender

Gavin's Achievements

Hot Tub Aficionado

Hot Tub Aficionado (4/5)



  1. Thanks for your reply and your concern quantumchromodynamics. I guess you are also in the pool biz as well and know the challenges. I know about under water lighting btw. I studied electrical engineering and was once an aeronautical engineer. My business is growing rapidly and we are the premier pool company in the country. I see no way but up. definitely not quitting. I will be the next millionaire poolman by the end of the year. Take care and have a great life!
  2. It did at the time but I learn and I move on. I do not dwell on negatives but keep moving forward and up. I am in business to make money not lose money. Once my clients are happy, the pool is in great condition and I get compensated for my time that is all that matters. eventually this filter will have needed replacing anyway. we will replace it with a small Hayward cartridge filter and the pump is needing replacing so will replace that the same time.
  3. you can add DE. Just don't add as much as you usually as you will need to backwash frequently. add 1 lb less than you usually to recharge. use 3 LBS of DE powder.
  4. Thank you for the reply. no problem. not harsh just realilty. I'm sure I will have to replace the whole filter one day. Its an old filter. I had a repairman do this job. I think what I have learnt from this is that if you have a DE filter with movable parts inside it is best to replace it than try to fix it. Even if you fix it next week something else inside could break or crack and will end up costing you more in the long run. at least with a new filter, if properly cared for, will last many years. NOTE: I do NOT recommend anyone do what I did. I recommend they replace the filter with a new one.
  5. still waiting on the floor tiles. they have to be custom manufactured. when they are ready we will drain the pool and retile the floor. I also think the waterfall section could use a cartridge filter and an addittional SWG. The main pool section has a AquaRite with T15 cell. This section is around 40,000 gallons. the shallow pool and waterfall is connected but flow and circulation is not good so I have a floater at the waterfall. we go through 3-4 tabs per week and 96oz of acid. SWG is stretch at 100% and 12hrs the pump runs. Keeps FC at 4-5 but I would like to add one more SWG in the waterfall system.
  6. update..the pool is cleaner than it has ever been. In fact when I arrive at the pool the pool is so clean I could walk away and not clean it...no one would know. But I do still brush, skim and vac and check the chems. I keep the FC above the min CYA/FC and there is no problems at with this pool. This pool is runing better than any other pool I have. Of course the day will come when I will have to clean the filter. but its been several months now and its still good.
  7. I have ordered a Pool Blaster CG and will let you guys know how it works out.
  8. its made by Water Tech: http://watertechcorp.com/products-catfish.htm I also see they make a Pool Blaster CG: http://watertechcorp.com/products-PBmaxCG.htm which might be a better choice for commercial use. anyone tried any of these?
  9. cool. once you got enough FC in there now you just let the FC drop to the right FC/CYA ration and keep it there. now you will have no more problems.
  10. I'm looking for something like this. anyone tried one of these? does it work well?
  11. I'm not happy with any CYA tester out there. I think the TF Test Kit is probably going to be the most accurate of them all.
  12. When there is cyanuric acid in the water, the effect of pH becomes almost negligible. Even when there is no cyanuric acid, the hypochlorite ions become hypochlorous acid as the hypochlorous acid is used up, because they maintain a constant ratio. \ah ok. so all these products sold by the pool store stating first to adjust pH to 7.2-7.4 is not really neccessary when we have CYA in the water. especially 60-80ppm for like SWG's.
  13. Wow. That's a lot of chlorine demand. Are these US gallons (128 ounces)? Is this pool you shocked last week another 8000 gallon pool or one you're working on currently? You mentioned 60 PPM CYA in an earlier post. yes US gallons. its another 8,000 gallon pool. yes the pool last week had a SWG and the CYA was only 35ppm so I raised it to 70ppm and shocked it the ssame time..so basically I was shocking at 35ppm and well you know it takes time for the stabilizer to disolve. however everything is working very well now. generation enough FC now. this is a new pool this week and it had a CYA of 60 so I left it like that and will try and sell a SWG to them. BTW they are paying for tabs. I decided not to add the 6 gallons and just went with 4 gallons as they are having a party on Sunday. I tested and FC was 7.5 then I added 4 gallons of 10% which brings it up to around 47.5 but by Sunday it would have dropped down bellow 40ppm with CYA of 60 it should be ok and the swimmers will sure to burn off a lot of FC at the pool party. Thanks to you, Chem and the guys I'm finally getting a hold on my pools now and putting this great info to practical use in the field. My clients are extremely happy now. Thanks a million!!!
  14. I have to disagree with the advice to lower the pH. I think that it is important to keep the pH above 7.5 at all time in a plaster pool. I generally target 7.7 to 8.0 and get good results. A higher pH will also protect metals from corrosion. Also, I recommend the you increase filtration time and be more consistent with keeping the chlorine up I have found that low pH and/or low CSI increases the risk of some types of algae, especially mustard algae. Low pH and or low CSI can also cause cloudiness due to plaster dissolving. With a salt cell, you also have to make sure that the CSI does not get too high as it could lead to scaling. doesn't chlorine work better at lower pH levels?
  15. Be careful here. Six (6) gallons of 10% bleach seems like too much chlorine (1 gallon = 128 oz. 6 * 128 = 768 ounces). Adding 768 ounces of 10% bleach to an 8000 gallon pool will increase Free Chlorine by ~ 75 PPM (this assumes that the 10% bleach is fresh and full strength). That's an appropriate shock value if the pool has 160-200 PPM Cyanuric Acid (CYA). But if CYA is that high, you're better off draining 2/3 of the water before you begin to shock. If CYA is in the more typical range of 40-50 PPM, using only 1.5 gallons of 10% chlorine is sufficient; it will raise FC by 20 PPM. I tried 2 gallons and that didn't work so don't want to chance it this time and will shock using 6 gallons. I used 6 gallons in an 8,000 gallon pool last week and the next evening the FC had dropped down to 15ppm. of course that pool had a CYA of 35ppm. Its really hot now and the water temp is 94F.
  • Create New...