Leaderboard

An update on this and just to close this thread out. I checked locally to see if I could find a local guy to help troubleshoot. Most of the local shops have stopped servicing and just do chemicals now. Some will only work on models they sell. One local did track down something similar to the Balboa that RDspaguy recommended. But that was over 800.00 and did NOT include installation. After kicking around Parts vrs new Pack I decided on parts as I had a gut feeling it was the board. I was also concerned about how long it would take for a new pack. Anyway I replaced the board with this: Spa Builders by Allied Innovations - Circuit Board PCB: LX-15 ALPHA REV 5.31 - 3-60-0119 It is basically the same board with the same software version (5.31). Cost was 270.00 US. I also decided to go ahead and replace the Transformer with this: Spa Builders by Allied Innovations - Transformer, LX-10/15 With Plug 220V Systems Basically an upgraded transformer. Cost was 73.00 US. I installed them both and everything is working fine. I was thinking of just installing one or the other to pin point exactly which part was bad but you pretty much need to take it all apart for each piece. Simpler to install them both at the same time. Thanks for everyone who helped out with tips and pointers. The trouble shooting guide provided by CanadianSpaTech was especially helpful. The new board came with the jumpers configured for a 2nd motor (which I don't have), and the guide showed me which ones to set to off. The Boss is Happy !! Thanks Again !!

Shocking. Where is that member who claims to be a LPI rep? Jumped into one post to shill his crappy company. @Factory RepWhere are you? Show us that LPI actually cares for it's customers and help out miango instead of being a one post wonder and an obvious shill.

@Cassiemoreira An update, in case it helps anyone: I ditched the Bromine, switched to Chlorine about 4 weeks ago and I've had no reaction since. So for me, it was the Bromine that caused the skin irritation - or to be more specific, I was using Bromine granules which consisted of Sodium Bromide and Dichlor (which I hadn't realised before) - Jacuzzi branded, but fairly common mix I think after checking other brands. Now I use the Nitro method, so I kicked off with Dichlor and switched to bleach, with MPS dosing weekly or after a big load. That's working fine, but requires more work that the Bromine did.

The heater is easy to test. The sensors are a pain because the connector gets in the way of an ohm reading, but still fairly easy to test. That circuit board is probably nla (no longer available) and, if it comes to that, you will likely have no choice but to replace the whole pack. https://www.spadepot.com/Balboa-VS-Spa-Control-Kit-P3185 It's an easy swap, and much better technology than that old one you have. At that price, a new pack is a very reasonable option.

The high limit relays should both close if power is on, and open if the spa reads an overheat or power is turned off. Only the heater relay switches on and off for normal operation. That means one leg of the heater is always on unless there is an OH. Tested to ground (green or bare) or neutral (white)? That is a huge voltage drop, but what it means depends on wether the heater was connected, and on or off. The heater circuit is just in and out through the 3 relays. Disconnect the heater and turn on power, then initiate a heat call and test across the heater connections on the board. If it says it's heating but has no voltage or low voltage it is a bad relay. Then end the heat cycle (turn it down or unplug pressure switch) and test again. If it has ANY voltage across the heater connections it is also a bad relay. With pump running and heater disconnected, turn off and unplug the sensor harness and test each sensor (through the tiny slots on the side) for resistance and post results. The resistance will be in the ballpark of 20k ohms, so set your tester accordingly. At this point I have little doubt that you have a bad relay or 6, but the OH is likely a different issue, and the tripping breaker could be as well. Post a pic of the board all wired up, the wiring diagram, equipment area, and breaker (close up so we can read the front label).

Just to filter. My CalSpa is a 1988 model, and I always had issues with its factory filter cartridge housing leaking, plus the big plastic "nut" kept breaking and was at least $20. Plus access to even remove the housing was ridiculous. So I routed the plumbing out of the cabinet, with shut off valves on both sides of the filter, and used an aftermarket Hayward filter unit which seals at the top. I cover this all with a wooden box I made, not in the photo.

You cannot use 2 120v gfci breakers to feed a 240v pump. Get a 240v gfci breaker.

The main issue is flow rate from the circ pump, which is too low for the heater you ordered (but might work with a household water heater, regular or tankless) and the replumbing that would be needed, not to mention the bigger pump, to increase it. On a home water heater that uses 120v, feeding power off of the board heater connection will work as a thermostat control. It won't work with a pilot light heater (millivolt). You will get a little overheat from a tank, but a tankless you won't.

I get it.... but IMO right now with the spa you have it's a square peg in a round hole kinda deal. There are systems available to do what you want (see below) and it can be done. Can it be done with your current system and set up... https://geckoportal.com/ingrid https://issuu.com/geckomkt/docs/ingrid_techbook_en?e=14165552/54355200