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@castletonia WOW now that's quick service. Thank You and have a great weekend... Older than it looks. Picked up the spa, 15' of tech 90 wire, The 2 breaker 20/30 Amp panel box, near new cover, Cover Lifter and cover cap plus the heaviest step ever for basically removal labour cost and a 20 min $10 leak repair. Despite it's age it is a super clean well taken care of spa that won't last the weekend once posted for sale. Some days it works out for the overworked and weary. 🙏 No base rot, Pumps and pack are in perfect working order.

I see this all the time. Missing Suction/pump return covers. If you have one that is broken or missing it is important to fix/replace ASAP. These covers provide a critically important safety feature. If you ever put your hand over a missing cover with the pump running in high speed it will suck your hand in and hurt. They were mandated years ago after a young girl got her hair sucked in and kept her under water with sad result. The pic below is from a job I just worked on where the customer was just topping up his spa with a bit of water. Dropped his expandable garden hose in and turned the tap on. Within a split second it was sucked into the missing suction opening and made it's way from one side of the tub through the plumbing past a couple of 90 degrees elbows and a Tee fitting into the face of the pump. The impeller twisted it up 1,000 times. It actually sucked it in not from the fill end with the brass fitting but in the middle part of the hose. The brass fitting part stayed in the foot well. I can't hardly believe how many times I had to untwist the hose at the pump wet end, end before I could try and pull it back through and it was still twisted up inside the plumbing. Had to get at it by removing a second suction cover see on the right and pull it through that one first then cut it and pull it through where it got sucked in. It was a $250 mistake for the garden hose but the customer had young children using the spa and it could easily have cost a life over a $20 part and 2 minute fix. FYI...those expandable hoses can stretch out for a mile.. or 2... lol

@Ahhsomeguy

Likely biofilm and other organic nasties inside the plumbing lines. When you shut a spa down there is usually residual water left in the plumbing. Use AHH-Some line cleaner to purge the plumbing lines https://ahhsome.com/

For those looking for the relays I used and where the broken track in the circuit board was...I've attached some pics. Zoom in to see where I've circled the broken track on the circuit board pic. btw...it's nearly a month later and the spa is going great. We've been enjoying it more than ever. Cheers, AndyO

I was able to figure out just enough to fix my problem with the lights (I think, at least... only time will tell). For my hot tub (x-400), the wiring for the lights is spliced. The wire from the control board is split into two. I've attached a picture of the connection that was made. They put heat-shrink tubing around the connection, but the heat-shrink tubing failed and the connection was rusty. I was looking for the replacement harness, but I cannot find it so I'm a bit perplexed. All I can find is a one-light wiring harness. So what I did was I cut out the rusted crimp connector, stripped and exposed some new wire and placed a wire nut around it to hold it all together. This fix is working like a charm, and we're good to go. Although I would like to know if there's a reason that I cannot find a replacement harness... It's just a little odd...

Assuming this hot tub did not have the circulation pump added and only has the jet pump, the pump should turn on automatically when it needs heat. Keep in mind though that it will not automatically call for heat until the actual water temperature is 2 degrees below the set temperature.

I had tested out voltage throughout the board before and everything checked out. I just got the new board in (Part 6600-297), installed, and everything is working properly. It was definitely the burned area U2/C2 on the board. Another owner had the same burned area on his board, but he had a FL2 error, even though his J365 was working properly. He found he had a surge that blew his Snubber Transistor, but mine was fine. Based on these two issues with J-365 Circuit Board 6600-293, I feel that the board is faulty in my case. I installed the new REV 6600-297 that has newer a newer circuitry design on U2/C2. I had to set Jumper 8 to off in order to switch from Celsius to Fahrenheit, but other than that, it was a simple controller board swap with identical connections and matching screw holes. Props to SpaCare for getting the board out in 2 days in this world of crappy supply chains. I would have had to wait a month at least to get that board through a dealer from Jacuzzi. On a final note, Jacuzzi has very little in the way of DYI troubleshooting information and there are very few repair videos on YouTube for Jacuzzi, especially J-365. Local dealers won't touch the spa without warranty, especially if you didn't buy it from them. I Had to spend a lot of time to figure out Pump Wet End replacement, LoFlo Heater replacement, and TopSide Controller replacement. Now that I am proficient on the J365, I won't be buying a replacement tub until I cant get parts anymore.

2005

Still not getting what I'm asking for. We do this for free and on our own time. Trying to help you. Please follow direction. If I have to ask a 4th time...I'm out. Aqua Flow impellers are different part numbers from Waterway impellers part numbers. I see Waterway impellers. They also use a different seal. Look in the Catalogue I posted a link to.

Small HP stickers on pumps have little meaning. I have 12 amp pumps that have 3,4 and/or 5 hp stickers slapped on them. I have impellers that have 3,4 and 5 HP imprinted on the same impeller. Hi speed AMP draw is the best way to decipher...or measure the impeller "blade" width. Wider the blade the higher the hp Post photos of the wet ends.

yes Don't think they make a 5hp See attached: Start at page 100 and flip through all pages until 117 you will find the information you seek. http://elmsalesandequipment.com/product-catalogue.htm

The GE @ 12 amp would be a 4 hp. Would need to see the wet end to identify MFG The Emerson @ 16.4 would be a 5 Hp This is likely a Waterway wet end but would need to see it to verify 100% Would also need to see the wet ends to identify the plumbing connection size 2" in x 2" out or 2.5" in 2" out

That would be Virginia Graeme Baker, namesake of the VGB act, later renamed the pool and spa safety act, which regulates protections from entrapment and evisceration (yes, that means sucking out your intestines when you sit on a suction at the bottom of the pool) on public pools and spas, as well as new private pool and spa construction in the US. Old private pools and spas are unregulated, and usually unsafe. https://www.emsworld.com/news/10409001/minnesota-girl-6-disemboweled-kiddie-pool-drain Thank you @CanadianSpaTech for bringing up this important topic. ⭐ Gold star for YOU my friend. Maybe some our other knowledgeable industry contributors, like @waterbear, @jimmythegreek, @Pool Clown, would like to add to this thread with their knowledge and experiences. This thread, or one like it, should be a sticky in every forum.