curls Posted May 7, 2021 Report Share Posted May 7, 2021 Freeflow Passport... ~2011. I think I have old, dried-up gasket debris in my lines. My old pump gave up the ghost recently - a long time coming. The new pump was installed in place and hasn't provided adequate flow. I suspect one or both gate valves are internally destroyed, as closing them had little effect on holding back water, which meant the tub drained itself before I could get the new pump in (also didn't want to replace a pump with 40*f water pouring onto my hands!). I got the new pump hooked up and after refilling (TWICE) I have determined the problem of very low flow isn't an airlock, as the system burped itself the second time, but there was a LOT of tiny bits of old gasket material in the tub. Who knows where from -- no leaks are apparent. I have had a tripped GFI, an OH, and a few LF (I think - Low Flow) error codes since replacing the pump. So, I believe there's a reasonable chance that the pump itself may have an internal blockage of debris. Also, probably some in the lines. What is the best way to tackle this situation? My preferred way of selling the hot tub at a steep discount, was nixed by the wife. LOL. I suppose I could drain the tub again, take the new pump out, clean out the impeller, and replace it, but that doesn't fix any debris in the lines and the problem could easily happen again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curls Posted May 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2021 Update... Drained tub. No apparent damage to the impeller, no real debris, either. One human hair, that's it. I guess the next step is blow out each jet and then flush the system? It's there any particular method to that madness? Where to start? Leave all Jets open? What's the flushing point with the garden hose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted May 8, 2021 Report Share Posted May 8, 2021 Remove filters. Is the new pump the same voltage and amp rating as the old? Is the wiring correct? Do you have a picture of the "gasket" stuff? Your best bet for a flush is what happened when you changed the pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted May 8, 2021 Report Share Posted May 8, 2021 So just to re-cap...you have a Freeflow with low flow...lol. Sorry. I assume it's a 120V spa...or is it hard wired 240V? When you had it out did you power the pump up and verify it is running at full power in both speeds? Are all the jets are in the on/open position? Filters are OUT When it's running is there suction at the pump returns in the footwell? At the bottom of the filter housing there might be a little spring loaded flapper that opens when you place the spa in hi speed when it needs to suck in more water from the foot well pump returns to feed the pump. It should stay closed in low speed so the water to feed the pump is pulled through the filter and not the foot well suctions. The spring loaded flappers can break off and get lodged in the plumbing but usually make their way to the face of the pump and have seen them make their way into the heater tube and blocking things up...even melting so also check inside the heater tube for debris. When it's running are any of the jets sucking water in? Can you "fish" the line between the filter and the pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curls Posted May 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2021 8 hours ago, RDspaguy said: Remove filters. Is the new pump the same voltage and amp rating as the old? Is the wiring correct? Do you have a picture of the "gasket" stuff? Your best bet for a flush is what happened when you changed the pump. The same rating and voltage. No picture of the gasket stuff. I might be able to get one later if there's any left at the bottom of the tub, but it's pouring rain and I'm not home right now. 54 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said: So just to re-cap...you have a Freeflow with low flow...lol. Sorry. I assume it's a 120V spa...or is it hard wired 240V? When you had it out did you power the pump up and verify it is running at full power in both speeds? Are all the jets are in the on/open position? Filters are OUT When it's running is there suction at the pump returns in the footwell? At the bottom of the filter housing there might be a little spring loaded flapper that opens when you place the spa in hi speed when it needs to suck in more water from the foot well pump returns to feed the pump. It should stay closed in low speed so the water to feed the pump is pulled through the filter and not the foot well suctions. The spring loaded flappers can break off and get lodged in the plumbing but usually make their way to the face of the pump and have seen them make their way into the heater tube and blocking things up...even melting so also check inside the heater tube for debris. When it's running are any of the jets sucking water in? Can you "fish" the line between the filter and the pump? Haha ironic ain't it?! It's a convertible spa that has been running at 240v for many years now. Dad is an electrician and wired it. Pump runs high and low. Wiring appears correct. Dad is actually on his way here today for a visit so I'll have him double check. Filter was out at one point with no change in flow. Didn't leave it out for long as there was a lot of that crud floating around. I'll remove that cover on the suction/drain in the footwell. I'll inspect and even fish tape it to bust any potential clogs. Will also fish tape the filter to pump line. I assume that line is a straight shot with no others feeding in except the line from suction drain? Lastly I will remove heater tube and inspect in it, and will be able to inspect the other gate valve at the same time. All of the above will need to wait until it stops raining as, well, water and circuit boards don't mix lol. Thanks for the help. I'll report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curls Posted May 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2021 Figured out the problem -the pump I was sold is a 240V but my old pump is a 120V. It's there a way to use the jumpers on the board to flip the output to 240V? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted May 9, 2021 Report Share Posted May 9, 2021 The re are 2 areas on the left hand side of the board. White AC and RED AC. Any wires plugged into white AC are and run as 120V. Red AC if for 240V components. To the right of the Pump 1 connection on the circuit board you will see a white wire at W1. If the pump is 120V it goes to White AC. If the pump is 240V move it to Red AC. Any one of the male prongs in that section will work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curls Posted May 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2021 THANK YOU!!! She's purring and pumping nicely now. I'm sending you a pm... Please check it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curls Posted May 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2021 Btw, I am certain the gasket material is from the gate valves. Neither one had any gasket left (and they don't hold back water). Here's a picture of the gasket bits. None of the Jets had dark coloured gaskets so it's the only other logical option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curls Posted May 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2021 (edited) Hey again... Maybe not a pump problem this time... GFI breaker tripped overnight at some point. It didn't get to a warm temp and I didn't get any codes from the panel before it happened -it was while we were sleeping. Dad is going to amp probe the components but doesn't have his GFI detection equipment with him here to look into that detail. It's there anything else we can check? Likely culprit? Thanks again! Edited to add -- the problem isn't immediate. It can't be replicated reliably with pump on high or low, heat on or off, light on, etc. Which means a ground fault is unlikely although not impossible. Edited May 10, 2021 by curls More detail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curls Posted May 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2021 False alarm. Secondary issue was a bit of water seeping up the heater post causing continuity to ground. Cleaned it up and will monitor for a bit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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