Dan Escondido Posted April 17, 2020 Report Share Posted April 17, 2020 I'm hoping to get some expertise in troubleshooting my 2012 Calspa. I drained and refilled it yesterday after about a year of not being used. When I turned it on at the breaker, it went into priming mode on the display as expected, with PR displayed. However, I didn't hear anything at all from the motor. I pushed the jets button, but still no action from the pump. I did the same thing several times with similar results. I don't think it is an issue with air in the lines since the pump never turned on. I did a continuity check on all the fuses in the box and also checked the pump capacitors. Everything seemed fine. Also, I checked every cable I could see to make sure they were all plugged in and undamaged. I'm not very familiar with the inner workings of the hot tub, but everything looked clean, unfrayed, and there were no loose or disconnected wires. Any tips for next steps troubleshooting? I'm thinking that maybe I should see if power is being supplied to the pump? I'm not sure whether it should receive 240 or 120. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted April 17, 2020 Report Share Posted April 17, 2020 When you did the continuity test on the fuses did you remove them or test them installed? How exactly did you test the capacitor, out of curiosity? If the cap is bad the motor hums or buzzes for a bit then will click audibly as the internal overheat protection trips. Are there any error codes on the display? Did you test line voltage? (Voltage at the spa hookup.) Can you post a pic of your control box and circuit board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Escondido Posted April 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 RDSpaguy, Thanks for the quick reply. I tried what you mentioned and got the following results. Yes, I removed the fixes for continuity check. I didn’t specifically check ohms, just beeping continuity. I tested both capacitors for capacitence using a multimeter. Measured across the terminals that were connected. Two terminals per capacitor. I believe it was 30 uf each. There is no noise whatsoever to indicate that any parts are on. The only indication that anything is working is the display. All the buttons seem to work. When I push them the display reacts as expected. However, I did notice that the light isn’t responding either. No error codes on the display. It reads Pr for a few minutes, then back and forth between the temp and Ec. I tested voltage going in to the spa. 121v each across red and black. I also checked voltage to the pump. I got 120v ac when I tested across the green to white and also 120v when I tested from green to red Here are some pictures to show what I’m working with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 You should have 240v from red to black, 120v to white. Go check your breaker. Is it a 2 pole gfci? Your pump is wired for 240v also, so won't go at 120v. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Escondido Posted April 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Ok I tried the testing from red to black on input power and got 243v. As far as the pump power, I couldn’t get anything but 120v from green to white and green to red. All other combinations get no reading. I seem to remember having the option to use 120v or 240v when I first got the tub and chose 240v so it would heat more easily. Is the pump only 120? I thought the heating element was the part that was affected. I’ve attached a picture of my panel as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Green is ground. It is not part of the circuit, but a safety component in the event of a short. Green is only "hot" in a DC system, such as your car. You should not use it for testing purposes. At the pump, red is high speed, black is low speed, white is common. Test from black to white on low speed, and red to white on high speed. The way your circuit board is configured (and I have installed hundreds of these), your pump is wired for 240v. The pump motor will have a label on it that lists the specs, voltage will be there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Anybody want to discuss the burnt out right leg of the heater I don't get many Cal Spa repairs in my area but the ones I have seen issues are often caused by the "Safety Suction" system. Bypass/jumper it and test again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Can't believe I missed it. Gold star for you, Canadaguy! Safety suction will throw an error, SS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 28 minutes ago, RDspaguy said: Can't believe I missed it. Gold star for you, Canadaguy! Safety suction will throw an error, SS. I would still jump them and take them out of the equation when dealing with this type of issue. Is the safety suction light supposed to be lit saying it's working or lit to say a suction or flow issue has been detected? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Escondido Posted April 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Wow, didn’t notice that color difference on the heater. So perhaps once I get the pump running the heat won’t work? Would that be caused by no water flowing through? For the safety suck, I don’t get any error but could definitely try to jump it. How do I do that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Well..looking back at the photos I see the led indicator light on the topside for Safety Suction but there is no safety suction system plumbed in so.... That aside I would remove the board and have a look on the backside for darkened or burnt areas around the relays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Looking on close up that right leg is fried and will require professional repair or complete replacement. Again look on the backside of board you will see the damage. Post pic and I will tell you if repair is possible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Escondido Posted April 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Ok here’s a picture of the backside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Looks like junk to me. Going to want a new element, too. Might be time to consider a new control pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 That board took a major hit. Replace entire pack with heater. If you look at all the solder nipples there is a lot of black/burn on the tips of the nipples nipples. You don't have to buy that exact Cal Spa pack. There are other basic options. Just make sure it is compatible with that balboa topside or buy a complete balboa kit pack with topside included. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Escondido Posted April 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 So I assume the heater is done as well then? Or can I just replace the lead? I’ll look around, but like you mentioned it may be cheaper to just buy a whole kit. As far as the pump goes, is there a way to test it without replacing the kit? The spa needs a new cover as well so costs are quickly adding up. Perhaps I could hardwire it directly to the main power? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 You could test low speed then hi speed at the back of the pump using 120V plug. Mark down positions of the wires going into the back of the pump White green black and red then remove. Cut the female end off and old extension cord and crimp on female spade connectors to the black and white and a split connector for the green. Attach green and then the match up the white with original white position. Attach the black to original black position and plug it in. It should run on either high or low. then unplug and remove the black and attach it to where the original red position and it should run the other speed (hi or low). Suggest plugging into a GFCI protected wall plug or even a GFCI protected extension cord...you know the one behind your t.v. Do not run pump motor for more than a second or 2 it's all you need for testing. Pro Tip: Safety never takes a holiday. Be Safe and don't work beyond your ability. If your unsure don't do it. Electricity can/will kill. I'm just a guy on the internet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Escondido Posted April 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2020 Ok I connected the pump as per your instructions and it pumped slowly. I assume that is because it is on half the voltage it needs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted April 19, 2020 Report Share Posted April 19, 2020 You should be able to run at speed in both hi and low with 120V depending on where the black is connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.