Cusser Posted February 22, 2020 Report Share Posted February 22, 2020 I bought my CalSpa new in late 1988. The instructions (and maybe the dealer) said to only use bromine tablets in it, NOT chlorine tablets. So not knowing any better, that's what I have done all these years. Is there a technical reason why bromine tablets were detailed, or is it only because of potential fumes? Thanks. I use 1" bromine tablets in a floater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 7, 2020 Report Share Posted March 7, 2020 There are reasons, but there are better ways now. Chlorine tablets destroy ph, I do not recommend them for anything but a stained toilet. When chlorine reacts with an organic contaminant it produces chloramines, which are acidic bad smelling itch causing voc's that serve no purpose. If you smell "chlorine" you are in fact smelling chloramines. We get rid of those by shocking. Shocking can affect balance and leave your water unuseable for days in a worst case scenario. When bromine reacts with organic contaminants the result is bromides, which also smell, trash balance, and the rest. But bromides are themselves a mild sanitizer as well, so continue to assist in a sanitary environment. This allows a spa owner who is, lets face it, probably going to make mistakes, to run less risk of catching something but more risk of unpleasantness. Bromides are also difficult to oxidize, so shocking is less effective. And bromine maintains slightly better at high temps than chlorine. Bromine spas must change water more frequently than chlorine spas to avoid chemical saturation and that cloud of fumes when the cover is open. Those same fumes destroying your spa cover and pillows and bleaching out your valves, I might add. Dichlor is a ph neutral granule, fast acting and easy to oxidize. Mineral purifiers interfere with the reproductive cycly of single celled organisms, reducing the need for such high residuals in a covered spa. Non-chlorine shock allows for easy oxidation or ozone provides continuous oxidation. PM me for my recommended treatment for your antique hot tub. You don't see many that old anymore, you must do a good job with your chemicals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cusser Posted March 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2020 Thank you. I'll continue with my 1-inch bromine tablets in my floater. My chemical costs (and heating costs, Phoenix AZ) are pretty low. Water stays at 104F October through May, and I hardly ever hear the heater/pump turn on. I'd say less than 1/2 hour per day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 8, 2020 Report Share Posted March 8, 2020 That it works for you is the most important consideration in spa maintenance. I have been in the business since the mid 90s, and used to teach a bromine maintenance course at the dealership I worked for back then. It used to be the way to do it. But times and technology change, and I get older, and I have seen many maintenance practices come and go, some good some bad. I know what I do with my spa. I will be happy to share that with you if you are unhappy with your current method. But, as they say, if it isn't broke don't fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cusser Posted March 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2020 Thanks, staying as I am. One issue was finding persulfate powder at "reasonable" prices, no longer at Home Depot; but Lowes has some. Pool stores charge a fortune, didn't want to do online (yet). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 9, 2020 Report Share Posted March 9, 2020 Just stick with reliable industry specific websites. Avoid ebay, amazon, etc., unless buying a specific brand name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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