Eco One Help

[AAS]

I have been using ECO ONE with rainforest blue BUT my water keeps turming green ( but clear) and I have been getting a funky slime line and discoloration on my cover. The pH is fine and I have had my water tested for metals - not an issue. When I fill my spa I use a filter as well from Pacific Sands. I really like the Eco One but is it the rainforest blue?? I have heard that it is not truely a sanitizer. Should I use chlorine with the Eco One? I don't know what is causing my water to turn green? I do have an ozinator too.

Thanks

[Roger]

I have been using ECO ONE with rainforest blue BUT my water keeps turming green ( but clear) and I have been getting a funky slime line and discoloration on my cover. The pH is fine and I have had my water tested for metals - not an issue. When I fill my spa I use a filter as well from Pacific Sands. I really like the Eco One but is it the rainforest blue?? I have heard that it is not truely a sanitizer. Should I use chlorine with the Eco One? I don't know what is causing my water to turn green? I do have an ozinator too.

Thanks

Yes you should use chlorine for safe clean water. Any thing else is nothing more than a suplement to chlorine, and should be considered such. Use 1/2 tsp per person after every soak and you water will not be green and slimy. At that point you may want to drop E1 and RFB both. Shock every week or every other week with 2-3 TBLS and you water will be bacteria free.

[Andy]

Clear but green water is a sign of too much metals in the water like copper. Have you measured the copper level after adding the Rainforest Blue? It should be around 0.6ppm. Did you buy the Eco One starter kit and follow the directions? The kit comes with a cover cleaner that is used to clean the underneath of the spa cover and a cleanser used to clean out the spa of residues before using the enzymes. The discoloration on your cover is probably due to your ozonator. Are you using a floating spa blanket? The Eco One and Rainforest Blue are fine products and offer you much more ease than using Dichlor alone.

[AAS]

I am just really confused becasue many people say that rainforest blue is sufficient alone as a sanitizer but then many others say Rainforest blue is not truely a sanitizer and you need chlorine pr bromine. I have had my metals checked and there is not a problem and my copper readings always fall in the right perameters. I don't know what is going on.

[Roger]

Clear but green water is a sign of too much metals in the water like copper. Have you measured the copper level after adding the Rainforest Blue? It should be around 0.6ppm. Did you buy the Eco One starter kit and follow the directions? The kit comes with a cover cleaner that is used to clean the underneath of the spa cover and a cleanser used to clean out the spa of residues before using the enzymes. The discoloration on your cover is probably due to your ozonator. Are you using a floating spa blanket? The Eco One and Rainforest Blue are fine products and offer you much more ease than using Dichlor alone.

The key here ASS is yes they are fine products, but they are not sanitizers and yes they will reduce the amount of dichlor required. But they should be treated as secondary to a chlorine product not primary. The only clear and for sure way to know all the bacteria and nastys are gone from your tub is to use enough chlorine to kill it. These other products do kill it but at a much slower rate, and bathing once with a couple people 3-4 times a week will overcome the killing abilitys of these products, so chlorine is required. Personaly and I say this for me and my needs alone, I say why bother with the other more expensive products when dichlor is so cheap and so easy. They will tell you that why would you want to soak in chlorine, but if done right when you soak the chlorine level is so low it's like tap water, then when you are done is when you need a level of 3-5 PPM to kill the nastys. Netx soak, the level has dropped to .5 or less PPM. They will tell you that chlorine is a carcinigen, yes but at a lower level that an onion. And we are exposed to higher levels of carcinigens everyday walking outside.

[tony]

I completely agree with Roger. Eco One and Rainforest Blue may be fine products, but neither is a sanitizer. They are enzymes and copper and are listed as bacteriacides. Add some dichlor once or twice a week along with these products to keep your water safe. Clear water does not necessarily mean sanitized water.

[igneous]

Roger and Tony are right. Chlorine is the best choice to totally sanitize pool/spa water. Sure, you could use bromine or baquacrap, but why throw $$ down the drain. My advice to you...don't go to the pool store any more. Go to the grocery store and buy bleach (ultra unscented), baking soda, and borax. Muratic acid from HDepot is useful too but be careful using it to lower pH. All these products contain the same active ingredients as those from a pool store at about 1/5 the price. Only difference is that bleach chlorination does not add CYA, or cyuranic acid to the water. You have to buy a container of stabilizer/conditioner every year or two.

[Roger]

Roger and Tony are right. Chlorine is the best choice to totally sanitize pool/spa water. Sure, you could use bromine or baquacrap, but why throw $$ down the drain. My advice to you...don't go to the pool store any more. Go to the grocery store and buy bleach (ultra unscented), baking soda, and borax. Muratic acid from HDepot is useful too but be careful using it to lower pH. All these products contain the same active ingredients as those from a pool store at about 1/5 the price. Only difference is that bleach chlorination does not add CYA, or cyuranic acid to the water. You have to buy a container of stabilizer/conditioner every year or two.

Ummmmm lets not get carried away. Baking Soda, Borax and Muratic Acid yes as adjustment chemicals for your water fine. But as a sanitizer Bleach is terrible. It is only 10 % chlorine and 90 % ahhhhh something else that you don't need in the water. Use Dichlor, Spa 56 it is PH nuetral and can be found at 60 percent chlorine or better.

[Jim_The_Jim]

The key here ASS is yes they are fine products, but they are not sanitizers and yes they will reduce the amount of dichlor required. But they should be treated as secondary to a chlorine product not primary. The only clear and for sure way to know all the bacteria and nastys are gone from your tub is to use enough chlorine to kill it. These other products do kill it but at a much slower rate, and bathing once with a couple people 3-4 times a week will overcome the killing abilitys of these products, so chlorine is required. Personaly and I say this for me and my needs alone, I say why bother with the other more expensive products when dichlor is so cheap and so easy. They will tell you that why would you want to soak in chlorine, but if done right when you soak the chlorine level is so low it's like tap water, then when you are done is when you need a level of 3-5 PPM to kill the nastys. Netx soak, the level has dropped to .5 or less PPM. They will tell you that chlorine is a carcinigen, yes but at a lower level that an onion. And we are exposed to higher levels of carcinigens everyday walking outside.

Roger; I strongly suggest that you try the Eco One out and find out exactly what it is. I ran a spa for 18 months on the same water with nothing but Eco One and 24 hour ozone. It is amazing and well worth the effort for anyone to try it. It is not sold as a sanitizer because of the EPA.

[Roger]

Roger; I strongly suggest that you try the Eco One out and find out exactly what it is. I ran a spa for 18 months on the same water with nothing but Eco One and 24 hour ozone. It is amazing and well worth the effort for anyone to try it. It is not sold as a sanitizer because of the EPA.

I can not soak in the same water for that long. I like nice fresh water every 3-4 months. The cost and amount of dichlor I use in 3-4 months is so minumal I don't see the point in adding expense to have the same water longer, when I want fresh water anyway. I think my problem was I am to dirty (meaning I don't shower before) when I soak and have alot of other people over for E1 to keep up so I end up adding dichlor anyway at just a slightly reduced rate, so no point. Been there done that. There is nothing like fresh water in my opinion and a drain and refill is very easy. And if it cost the same to drain and refill then I have lost nothing. But gained fresh water.

[AAS]

So If I am going to use Eco One with dichlor instead of Rainforest Blue... How much dichlor do I add and when do I add it?

Thanks

[tony]

So If I am going to use Eco One with dichlor instead of Rainforest Blue... How much dichlor do I add and when do I add it?

Thanks

You could add as small amount after use...tsp or half tsp. Or you could add a tblspn once or twice a week as needed.

[Roger]

So If I am going to use Eco One with dichlor instead of Rainforest Blue... How much dichlor do I add and when do I add it?

Thanks

Back when I used E1 I found myself adding dichlor after every use because I could not keep the water clear if I didn't. The rate I used was around 1/2 teaspoon per person. Funny thing is that right now without the E1 my rate is about the same 1/2 tsp per person after every use. The difference is that with the E1 in between uses you don't have to run out and add dichlor because the E1 will take care of your water for you.

[AAS]

So what about using E1 and Clearwater Blue - Would I still need to add Dichlor?

[tony]

So what about using E1 and Clearwater Blue - Would I still need to add Dichlor?

E1 and Clearwater Blue are enzymes and copper...still need a little dichlor.

[Roger]

So what about using E1 and Clearwater Blue - Would I still need to add Dichlor?

If you want truely sanitized (not just clear) water you should use chlorine in some form. You should also reach a PPM level of 3-5 once in a while. So your quantity will depend on how much it takes to reach that PPM. Why bother combining 2 expensive enzyme treatments. If your stuck on enzyme as a secondary product then use one or the other and combine it with a good proven sanitizer.

[Scubasteve]

AAS, my guess is that there is either natural copper in your source water or your pH is too high and the copper is being released from it's carrier. EcoOne allows you to use a wider pH range than most treatments, but this is not ideal when used with Rainforest Blue. Make sure your pH is between 7.2-.7.4 and your problems will go away.

Also, take a sample from the hose you fill from (not your spa) and bring it to your local dealer for a free water analysis. They will test for copper. Let your hose run for a minute before taking the sample and use a very clean container that has no surfactant residue.

Or just switch to granular chlorine (dichlor) and add the minimum amount after each use. Since Eco One is riding your spa of all the organic matter, you can get by on the miminum amount of dichlor. People that use just dichlor, have to add large amounts to break everything down. Eco One reduces your chlorine usage by handleing the largest task in the spa non-toxically (bather waste/organic matter) and keeps your pH stable (better working environment). This leaves the dichlor for only bacteria, so smaller amounts are more effective.

[Scubasteve]

If you want truely sanitized (not just clear) water you should use chlorine in some form. You should also reach a PPM level of 3-5 once in a while. So your quantity will depend on how much it takes to reach that PPM. Why bother combining 2 expensive enzyme treatments. If your stuck on enzyme as a secondary product then use one or the other and combine it with a good proven sanitizer.

Roger, they are not " 2 expensive enzyme treatments".

Cleanwater Blue is copper based.. Just like Prestine Blue and Rainforest Blue. Eco One has enzymes as 1 of the ingredients, but should not be simply catagorized with products such as Spa Perfect (also a good product) that is simply enzymes.

Pristine Blue is the "name" out of the bunch, but is also more expensive.

[Andy]

I have been using ECO ONE with rainforest blue BUT my water keeps turming green ( but clear)... I don't know what is causing my water to turn green? ...

Thanks

Your problem still has me thinking of what may have gone wrong. What are your chlorine and combined chlorine readings? Have you shocked the water? What is the combined chlorine level afterwards?

[AAS]

I actually don't remember. I drained it and refilled using only Eco one and dichlor - no problems so far!

[Roger]

Roger, they are not " 2 expensive enzyme treatments".

Cleanwater Blue is copper based.. Just like Prestine Blue and Rainforest Blue. Eco One has enzymes as 1 of the ingredients, but should not be simply catagorized with products such as Spa Perfect (also a good product) that is simply enzymes.

Pristine Blue is the "name" out of the bunch, but is also more expensive.

I apoligize for grouping them all together. I have tryed several of them and have not had very good luck with clear water which always leads me to believe it is not clean. I end up adding dichlor to maintain water clearity and cleanliness. Then one day I decided to just give dichlor a shot on it's own, I use almost the same amount and have no trouble keeping clear/clean water. Now that our use has dropped significantly, maybe I should give these "other" products another chance as they may do better with lighter use. But they are very costly compared to 20 bucks for 18 months worth of dichlor and 99 cents for baking soda.

[spa Dr.]

Roger; I strongly suggest that you try the Eco One out and find out exactly what it is. I ran a spa for 18 months on the same water with nothing but Eco One and 24 hour ozone. It is amazing and well worth the effort for anyone to try it. It is not sold as a sanitizer because of the EPA.

Jim , you mast sell eco one. WOW 18 months with-out changing your water. impressive, your TDS must hve been in the 10,000 ppm range . of course from what i understand thats actually good for the no name brand spas you sell If the TDS rises 1500 ppm above the normal fill water level, or over 2500 ppm total, it could cause cloudy water. A partial drain and refill with water having a lower TDS will help. This is true of spas and pools,

[Roger]

Jim , you mast sell eco one. WOW 18 months with-out changing your water. impressive, your TDS must hve been in the 10,000 ppm range . of course from what i understand thats actually good for the no name brand spas you sell If the TDS rises 1500 ppm above the normal fill water level, or over 2500 ppm total, it could cause cloudy water. A partial drain and refill with water having a lower TDS will help. This is true of spas and pools,

I agree....I don't care what sanitation method I use, and I have tryed 5 different ones. I will still change my water 3-4 times a year. Because no matter what anyone says "There's nothing like fresh water"

[Jim_The_Jim]

Jim , you mast sell eco one. WOW 18 months with-out changing your water. impressive, your TDS must hve been in the 10,000 ppm range . of course from what i understand thats actually good for the no name brand spas you sell If the TDS rises 1500 ppm above the normal fill water level, or over 2500 ppm total, it could cause cloudy water. A partial drain and refill with water having a lower TDS will help. This is true of spas and pools,

I ran the Emerald (a well known brand) spa on Eco One for 18 months from the time I filled it. There was some splash out and evaporation and it was topped off because of that. For start up I did the 10 days with the "Step One" to prepare the spa, got the pH up to 8.0 and put in one teaspoon of chlorine. Then put in the first bottle of Eco One Treatment.

After that, we put in no other chemicals, except for 24 hour CD ozone. The pH was adjusted about once every two months by putting in approximately one tablespoon of pH down. The only rise in TDS was caused by evaporation and a little pH down plus the addition of the liquid Eco One Monthly Treatment. The only reason for dumping the water was the algae. I did not want to have to dose it with chlorine to kill the algae. Eco One does not kill algae.

The water was clear and wonderful to use. The spa was also used regularly on average three times a week, some times every night.

It was after the first six months of this test on this spa that I started to offer the Eco One at our store. We get a ton of compliments on the water from the Eco One users.

For a chemical store it is not a good idea to sell it, because it ruins most of the sales of normal chemicals. You do not need anything else with Eco One except occasional chlorine, sodium bicarbonate and some sodum bisulfate.

Some people do not understand that the water in your hot tub is millions of years old. IF it sits in a tub sanitized and filtered for years, it will be the same as it was when you filled it until you add chemicals to it.

It is the condition of water that creates the clarity or lack of clarity. Water is water, and if it has low TDS, is clear (filtered) as can be and is great to soak in, you can run it for as long as you want unitl the TDS does rise. The longer you can run a spa on the same water the less cost for electricity, because if you drain every four months, you need to heat all that water up to temperature each time.

I have found that the use of 24 hour Ozone with a thermal blanket seems to be the key to not having any other sanitizers needed with the Eco One. I don't recommend that to our customers, because Eco One, although is a sanitizer because it kills microorganisms, it is not a recognized EPA sanitizer. So all the instructions include using chlorine and shock. In my experiment is used neither, because the water did not show any sign of bacteria. I should have taken cultures, but I didn't.

I abused the filters a couple of times, and let the spa go for a couple of months with out adding the Eco One or even testing the water pH. The water showed a slight amount of cloudy, so I put in another bottle and it cleared up the next day. This was an Emerald Spa, 2001 195 the smallest model they made, by the way. We used to be Emerald dealers before the Haven Spas became our mainstay.

I am sure that I can repeat the same test if needed. Typically spa professionals do not know much about Eco One. I tested the heck out of it, I like it. The only limitation is you can't use any liquid oil based fragrances with it.

[Roger]

This was an Emerald Spa, 2001 195 the smallest model they made, by the way. We used to be Emerald dealers before the Haven Spas became our mainstay.

I am sure that I can repeat the same test if needed. Typically spa professionals do not know much about Eco One. I tested the heck out of it, I like it. The only limitation is you can't use any liquid oil based fragrances with it.

I am glad it worked for you Jim but as I stated it wouldn't work for me. I am sure there's alot of others it would not work for either. And it is not the same as fresh water which, like I said, I love.