ledogboy Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Hey Folks- I got my contactor issue sorted out and my new (used) tub is now heating. I was looking at the block diagram on the electrical cover, and it shows that my tub is convertible to 120 @20A, and 240 @ 30, 40 or 50 amps. The previous owner told me he had the tub on a 40 amp circuit, and looking at the conversion block, it does appear that he has the controller set up for that. I have a 50 amp circuit run to the tub, so I would like to take advantage of any extra power that I presume I could get with the extra 10 amps. I believe I have identified the wires shown as "x" and "y" and understand that they should be moved over to slots 3 and 4 on the converter block. I am wondering if the wires above need to be moved as well. I'm hoping one of you spa wizards might have seen such a thing before. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Cheers, Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Hey Folks- I got my contactor issue sorted out and my new (used) tub is now heating. I was looking at the block diagram on the electrical cover, and it shows that my tub is convertible to 120 @20A, and 240 @ 30, 40 or 50 amps. The previous owner told me he had the tub on a 40 amp circuit, and looking at the conversion block, it does appear that he has the controller set up for that. I have a 50 amp circuit run to the tub, so I would like to take advantage of any extra power that I presume I could get with the extra 10 amps. I believe I have identified the wires shown as "x" and "y" and understand that they should be moved over to slots 3 and 4 on the converter block. I am wondering if the wires above need to be moved as well. I'm hoping one of you spa wizards might have seen such a thing before. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Cheers, Ryan Only 2 wires need to be moved. But more power you will not achieve. Being ably to heat with pumps on high you will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ps558 Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Hey Folks- I got my contactor issue sorted out and my new (used) tub is now heating. I was looking at the block diagram on the electrical cover, and it shows that my tub is convertible to 120 @20A, and 240 @ 30, 40 or 50 amps. The previous owner told me he had the tub on a 40 amp circuit, and looking at the conversion block, it does appear that he has the controller set up for that. I have a 50 amp circuit run to the tub, so I would like to take advantage of any extra power that I presume I could get with the extra 10 amps. I believe I have identified the wires shown as "x" and "y" and understand that they should be moved over to slots 3 and 4 on the converter block. I am wondering if the wires above need to be moved as well. I'm hoping one of you spa wizards might have seen such a thing before. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Cheers, Ryan You will need to change the breaker first. You can't run a 50 amp product on a 50 amp breaker it will trip because of the heat from the equal rating from the breaker and spa. You would need a 60 amp breaker. Breakers are used with at least a 10 % difference between them and the product that is connected to them. Another way is this when a electrical device is turned on like a jet pump the amps jump way up and then level off once the motor starts. So with a 50 amp breaker and spa set at 50 amps with it heating and you turn the pump on high speed the amps jump up and the breaker trips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey_in_NY Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Hey Folks- I got my contactor issue sorted out and my new (used) tub is now heating. I was looking at the block diagram on the electrical cover, and it shows that my tub is convertible to 120 @20A, and 240 @ 30, 40 or 50 amps. The previous owner told me he had the tub on a 40 amp circuit, and looking at the conversion block, it does appear that he has the controller set up for that. I have a 50 amp circuit run to the tub, so I would like to take advantage of any extra power that I presume I could get with the extra 10 amps. I believe I have identified the wires shown as "x" and "y" and understand that they should be moved over to slots 3 and 4 on the converter block. I am wondering if the wires above need to be moved as well. I'm hoping one of you spa wizards might have seen such a thing before. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Cheers, Ryan You will need to change the breaker first. You can't run a 50 amp product on a 50 amp breaker it will trip because of the heat from the equal rating from the breaker and spa. You would need a 60 amp breaker. Breakers are used with at least a 10 % difference between them and the product that is connected to them. Another way is this when a electrical device is turned on like a jet pump the amps jump way up and then level off once the motor starts. So with a 50 amp breaker and spa set at 50 amps with it heating and you turn the pump on high speed the amps jump up and the breaker trips You are correct PS558, however configuration diagrams such as these are typically for the supply required, and include the allowance you speak of (BTW I think it's 25%, not 10%, but feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on this). For example a tub requiring a 60A GFI will only actually draw 48A constant with both pumps on high plus the heater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ps558 Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Hey Folks- I got my contactor issue sorted out and my new (used) tub is now heating. I was looking at the block diagram on the electrical cover, and it shows that my tub is convertible to 120 @20A, and 240 @ 30, 40 or 50 amps. The previous owner told me he had the tub on a 40 amp circuit, and looking at the conversion block, it does appear that he has the controller set up for that. I have a 50 amp circuit run to the tub, so I would like to take advantage of any extra power that I presume I could get with the extra 10 amps. I believe I have identified the wires shown as "x" and "y" and understand that they should be moved over to slots 3 and 4 on the converter block. I am wondering if the wires above need to be moved as well. I'm hoping one of you spa wizards might have seen such a thing before. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Cheers, Ryan You will need to change the breaker first. You can't run a 50 amp product on a 50 amp breaker it will trip because of the heat from the equal rating from the breaker and spa. You would need a 60 amp breaker. Breakers are used with at least a 10 % difference between them and the product that is connected to them. Another way is this when a electrical device is turned on like a jet pump the amps jump way up and then level off once the motor starts. So with a 50 amp breaker and spa set at 50 amps with it heating and you turn the pump on high speed the amps jump up and the breaker trips You are correct PS558, however configuration diagrams such as these are typically for the supply required, and include the allowance you speak of (BTW I think it's 25%, not 10%, but feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on this). For example a tub requiring a 60A GFI will only actually draw 48A constant with both pumps on high plus the heater. I bet your right in 25% I was trying to do it from memory instead of looking it up. your rating is correct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledogboy Posted January 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Thanks for the info, guys. Hmmm.... I wonder if there is any way to find out if the tub is meant to work with a 50 amp gfci, or if it needs a 60 amp GFCI because it actually draws 50 amps when running. I hate to start blowing breakers, or worse yet, be running right at the edge of safety without knowing it. Unfortunately, I have no other documentation with this tub (older L.A. Spas "Nice" model" beyond what is on the controller panel. Internet searches have proved fruitless... Having heating with the jets on high sounds like a nice thing to have! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey_in_NY Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Thanks for the info, guys. Hmmm.... I wonder if there is any way to find out if the tub is meant to work with a 50 amp gfci, or if it needs a 60 amp GFCI because it actually draws 50 amps when running. I hate to start blowing breakers, or worse yet, be running right at the edge of safety without knowing it. Unfortunately, I have no other documentation with this tub (older L.A. Spas "Nice" model" beyond what is on the controller panel. Internet searches have proved fruitless... Having heating with the jets on high sounds like a nice thing to have! Don't hold me to this but I'd bet the connection diagrams you show are for the supply, and not the actual draw. On my hot tub (Sundance) the 40A, 50A and 60A labelling is for the supply, and I'm pretty sure the same applies to all manufacturers, whether they make hot tubs, dishwashers or toasters! Might be worth speaking with an electrician if you know one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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