Temp Reading Problem

[rustytbird]

I inherited a Freeflow Passport spa and need some help in trying to understand what might be going on with it. Here is the scenario. I turn on the main 220V power switch. The spa turns on and the topside control tells me that the spa is in the prime phase. After the prime phase, the pump starts and the water circulates just fine. I can then turn on the jets and they will work fine also. The temperature is set at 94 degrees and the water temp is at 94 degrees. So far so good. Now for the problem. If I return to the spa an hour or two later, the topside control will show that the temp is now at anything from 98 to as high as a code of HH and the spa won't operate. The water temp is still at 94 degrees, so I know that the heater has not been heating the water beyond the set 94 degrees. If I cut the main power to the spa, and let it sit idle for say an hour, then turn the power back on, the spa will go back through it's start up cycle again and the spa will be usable one more time. I'm thinking that I might have a problem with the motherboard, but cannot find a source from which to buy the board. It is a Balboa M7 board with a FREE20R1B chip. Or could it be the sensors or topside control? Any ideas?

Don K.

[Roger]

I inherited a Freeflow Passport spa and need some help in trying to understand what might be going on with it. Here is the scenario. I turn on the main 220V power switch. The spa turns on and the topside control tells me that the spa is in the prime phase. After the prime phase, the pump starts and the water circulates just fine. I can then turn on the jets and they will work fine also. The temperature is set at 94 degrees and the water temp is at 94 degrees. So far so good. Now for the problem. If I return to the spa an hour or two later, the topside control will show that the temp is now at anything from 98 to as high as a code of HH and the spa won't operate. The water temp is still at 94 degrees, so I know that the heater has not been heating the water beyond the set 94 degrees. If I cut the main power to the spa, and let it sit idle for say an hour, then turn the power back on, the spa will go back through it's start up cycle again and the spa will be usable one more time. I'm thinking that I might have a problem with the motherboard, but cannot find a source from which to buy the board. It is a Balboa M7 board with a FREE20R1B chip. Or could it be the sensors or topside control? Any ideas?

Don K.

Seems like it could be a problem with flow and the sensors related to that. I would check that first (filter) Then after that I would check the voltage on the heater.

[rustytbird]

I inherited a Freeflow Passport spa and need some help in trying to understand what might be going on with it. Here is the scenario. I turn on the main 220V power switch. The spa turns on and the topside control tells me that the spa is in the prime phase. After the prime phase, the pump starts and the water circulates just fine. I can then turn on the jets and they will work fine also. The temperature is set at 94 degrees and the water temp is at 94 degrees. So far so good. Now for the problem. If I return to the spa an hour or two later, the topside control will show that the temp is now at anything from 98 to as high as a code of HH and the spa won't operate. The water temp is still at 94 degrees, so I know that the heater has not been heating the water beyond the set 94 degrees. If I cut the main power to the spa, and let it sit idle for say an hour, then turn the power back on, the spa will go back through it's start up cycle again and the spa will be usable one more time. I'm thinking that I might have a problem with the motherboard, but cannot find a source from which to buy the board. It is a Balboa M7 board with a FREE20R1B chip. Or could it be the sensors or topside control? Any ideas?

Don K.

Seems like it could be a problem with flow and the sensors related to that. I would check that first (filter) Then after that I would check the voltage on the heater.

Roger,

You mention that my problem could be as a result of a flow problem. I do have one (1) wall jet that is not putting out any water when the jets are on. I suspect that it must be plugged up. I've tried to remove the jet ( the jets on the Freeflow spa are designed to be removable and I can remove the other jets) but it will not turn and unlock, so I can't remove it. First: Do you think that this faulty jet could be creating my problem? And second: What might I attempt to do in trying to remove the jet?

Don K.

[lkneisler]

The Freeflow spa manual says "HH" is an overheat error; the spa thinks it's over 117 degrees (or something close to that). That would be the hi-limit sensor that's on or in the heater assembly.

I'd replace that before anything else cos it's way cheaper!

[lkneisler]

I forgot to add... if there are two sensors that go in to the heater assembly; like there are holes in the assembly that the sensors go in to, where they contact the water, then I believe you may have to replace them both.

[lkneisler]

I do have one (1) wall jet that is not putting out any water when the jets are on. I suspect that it must be plugged up. I've tried to remove the jet ( the jets on the Freeflow spa are designed to be removable and I can remove the other jets) but it will not turn and unlock, so I can't remove it. First: Do you think that this faulty jet could be creating my problem? And second: What might I attempt to do in trying to remove the jet?

Don K.

Some Freeflow spas have a big whirlpool jet. It doesn't come out like the other ones - I mean it can come out, but not like how you take the other ones out. It's obviously bigger than the other jets, so you'd know if that's the whirlpool. But you should be able to turn the face of the jet clockwise and counter-clockwise to make it go on and off. However... it could be stuck cos of calcium build up or something - since it probably never gets used. It doesn't sound like that's causing a problem though.

[rustytbird]

I do have one (1) wall jet that is not putting out any water when the jets are on. I suspect that it must be plugged up. I've tried to remove the jet ( the jets on the Freeflow spa are designed to be removable and I can remove the other jets) but it will not turn and unlock, so I can't remove it. First: Do you think that this faulty jet could be creating my problem? And second: What might I attempt to do in trying to remove the jet?

Don K.

Some Freeflow spas have a big whirlpool jet. It doesn't come out like the other ones - I mean it can come out, but not like how you take the other ones out. It's obviously bigger than the other jets, so you'd know if that's the whirlpool. But you should be able to turn the face of the jet clockwise and counter-clockwise to make it go on and off. However... it could be stuck cos of calcium build up or something - since it probably never gets used. It doesn't sound like that's causing a problem though.

[rustytbird]

Okay,

I've now replaced both of the heat sensors and the topside control panel. I have also freed up all of the jets and they all now function normally. I was able to find the heat sensors and topside control on eBay. However, my original problem still exists. So, I'm down to thinking that I might have a problem with the motherboard, and I want to replace it with a new one. But, cannot find a source from which to buy the board. It is a Balboa M7 board with a FREE20R1B chip. Is going through a Freeflow spa dealer my only choice in finding a new motherboard?

[lkneisler]

Okay,

I've now replaced both of the heat sensors and the topside control panel. I have also freed up all of the jets and they all now function normally. I was able to find the heat sensors and topside control on eBay. However, my original problem still exists. So, I'm down to thinking that I might have a problem with the motherboard, and I want to replace it with a new one. But, cannot find a source from which to buy the board. It is a Balboa M7 board with a FREE20R1B chip. Is going through a Freeflow spa dealer my only choice in finding a new motherboard?

I'm sorry to hear you're still having the same problem. There should be a sticker with a S/N or Part number; 52076, 52376, 52320 or 52532... When you get that number you can go online to compare prices with your service company or dealer quotes.

Online, just make sure the business is spa specific, reputable and that the board is new, not a refurb. I'd imagine you want a proper warranty. Example search: "Balboa 52076 PC Board"

If you can't find the number then start by searching for "Balboa M7 PC board" and see what comes up - you can usually match up what you have with a photo online, be careful cos there are quite a few it seems. Do call an actual human to confirm what you have and what you're getting, as opposed to pulling the trigger online. Electronics are most often not returnable.

And check every single item on that board if you're doing this yourself. There are pins and jumpers and wires... used to be dip switches but hopefully those are gone now... anyway, if, for example, you get a board that's set up for 110v and you're running 220v it's going to have to be converted according to the directions supplied with the board, or by the directions on the back of the control box panel (or in your spa manual that you can find at Freeflow's web site).

I hope this helps!

[rustytbird]

Okay,

I've now replaced both of the heat sensors and the topside control panel. I have also freed up all of the jets and they all now function normally. I was able to find the heat sensors and topside control on eBay. However, my original problem still exists. So, I'm down to thinking that I might have a problem with the motherboard, and I want to replace it with a new one. But, cannot find a source from which to buy the board. It is a Balboa M7 board with a FREE20R1B chip. Is going through a Freeflow spa dealer my only choice in finding a new motherboard?

I'm sorry to hear you're still having the same problem. There should be a sticker with a S/N or Part number; 52076, 52376, 52320 or 52532... When you get that number you can go online to compare prices with your service company or dealer quotes.

Online, just make sure the business is spa specific, reputable and that the board is new, not a refurb. I'd imagine you want a proper warranty. Example search: "Balboa 52076 PC Board"

If you can't find the number then start by searching for "Balboa M7 PC board" and see what comes up - you can usually match up what you have with a photo online, be careful cos there are quite a few it seems. Do call an actual human to confirm what you have and what you're getting, as opposed to pulling the trigger online. Electronics are most often not returnable.

And check every single item on that board if you're doing this yourself. There are pins and jumpers and wires... used to be dip switches but hopefully those are gone now... anyway, if, for example, you get a board that's set up for 110v and you're running 220v it's going to have to be converted according to the directions supplied with the board, or by the directions on the back of the control box panel (or in your spa manual that you can find at Freeflow's web site).

I hope this helps!

[rustytbird]

Okay,

I've now replaced both of the heat sensors and the topside control panel. I have also freed up all of the jets and they all now function normally. I was able to find the heat sensors and topside control on eBay. However, my original problem still exists. So, I'm down to thinking that I might have a problem with the motherboard, and I want to replace it with a new one. But, cannot find a source from which to buy the board. It is a Balboa M7 board with a FREE20R1B chip. Is going through a Freeflow spa dealer my only choice in finding a new motherboard?

I'm sorry to hear you're still having the same problem. There should be a sticker with a S/N or Part number; 52076, 52376, 52320 or 52532... When you get that number you can go online to compare prices with your service company or dealer quotes.

Online, just make sure the business is spa specific, reputable and that the board is new, not a refurb. I'd imagine you want a proper warranty. Example search: "Balboa 52076 PC Board"

If you can't find the number then start by searching for "Balboa M7 PC board" and see what comes up - you can usually match up what you have with a photo online, be careful cos there are quite a few it seems. Do call an actual human to confirm what you have and what you're getting, as opposed to pulling the trigger online. Electronics are most often not returnable.

And check every single item on that board if you're doing this yourself. There are pins and jumpers and wires... used to be dip switches but hopefully those are gone now... anyway, if, for example, you get a board that's set up for 110v and you're running 220v it's going to have to be converted according to the directions supplied with the board, or by the directions on the back of the control box panel (or in your spa manual that you can find at Freeflow's web site).

I hope this helps!

I have all of the numbers off of the Freeflow motherboard. It is a Balboa SUV M7 board, but the chip number on the board is FREE20R1B and that makes all the difference. The Freeflow number for the board is FREEFL FREE20SUV and it has a Part NUmber FF53335. The board SN is 53335-02200703120027. I've been checking just about everywhere that I can and have yet to find anybody that has this board or selling this board. Any help here will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks much,

Don

[rustytbird]

Okay,

I've now replaced both of the heat sensors and the topside control panel. I have also freed up all of the jets and they all now function normally. I was able to find the heat sensors and topside control on eBay. However, my original problem still exists. So, I'm down to thinking that I might have a problem with the motherboard, and I want to replace it with a new one. But, cannot find a source from which to buy the board. It is a Balboa M7 board with a FREE20R1B chip. Is going through a Freeflow spa dealer my only choice in finding a new motherboard?

I'm sorry to hear you're still having the same problem. There should be a sticker with a S/N or Part number; 52076, 52376, 52320 or 52532... When you get that number you can go online to compare prices with your service company or dealer quotes.

Online, just make sure the business is spa specific, reputable and that the board is new, not a refurb. I'd imagine you want a proper warranty. Example search: "Balboa 52076 PC Board"

If you can't find the number then start by searching for "Balboa M7 PC board" and see what comes up - you can usually match up what you have with a photo online, be careful cos there are quite a few it seems. Do call an actual human to confirm what you have and what you're getting, as opposed to pulling the trigger online. Electronics are most often not returnable.

And check every single item on that board if you're doing this yourself. There are pins and jumpers and wires... used to be dip switches but hopefully those are gone now... anyway, if, for example, you get a board that's set up for 110v and you're running 220v it's going to have to be converted according to the directions supplied with the board, or by the directions on the back of the control box panel (or in your spa manual that you can find at Freeflow's web site).

I hope this helps!

I have all of the numbers off of the Freeflow motherboard. It is a Balboa SUV M7 board, but the chip number on the board is FREE20R1B and that makes all the difference. The Freeflow number for the board is FREEFL FREE20SUV and it has a Part NUmber FF53335. The board SN is 53335-02200703120027. I've been checking just about everywhere that I can and have yet to find anybody that has this board or selling this board. Any help here will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks much,

Don

[lkneisler]

I have all of the numbers off of the Freeflow motherboard. It is a Balboa SUV M7 board, but the chip number on the board is FREE20R1B and that makes all the difference. The Freeflow number for the board is FREEFL FREE20SUV and it has a Part NUmber FF53335. The board SN is 53335-02200703120027. I've been checking just about everywhere that I can and have yet to find anybody that has this board or selling this board. Any help here will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks much,

Don

How 'bout 52532 ?

[rustytbird]

I have all of the numbers off of the Freeflow motherboard. It is a Balboa SUV M7 board, but the chip number on the board is FREE20R1B and that makes all the difference. The Freeflow number for the board is FREEFL FREE20SUV and it has a Part NUmber FF53335. The board SN is 53335-02200703120027. I've been checking just about everywhere that I can and have yet to find anybody that has this board or selling this board. Any help here will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks much,

Don

How 'bout 52532 ?

From what I know, and from what I think I understand, the 53532 will work just fine but because the main chip is not a FREE20R1B chip, the topside control won't function as it should. I have been told, that there is an overlay for the topside control that will change the way the control switches duties are designated. How that works, I'm not sure. Maybe the way to go here is to replace my current Freeflow motherboard with a 52532 board and then get a new topside control to match the new motherboard and fit in the current control's topside location.

But, with all that being said, it still surprises me as to how difficult it has been to find anybody who might know somebody who has some idea as to where I might find information on the original Freeflow board. At this moment, I can assure all, that I am no great fan of Freeflow spas. ARRRRRGGGGGHHHHH!

Don

[lkneisler]

From what I know, and from what I think I understand, the 53532 will work just fine but because the main chip is not a FREE20R1B chip, the topside control won't function as it should.

Ah, see, comprendo. You might end up with blower, jets, heat, light vs. jets, light, down, up

We used to sell those things (Freeflow Spas) for a year or two and I can't for the life of me remember what the top side looked like. The 52532 board says the chip is R1x (a or b I guess). Too many spas, too many parts, too old now

I have been told, that there is an overlay for the topside control that will change the way the control switches duties are designated. How that works, I'm not sure. Maybe the way to go here is to replace my current Freeflow motherboard with a 52532 board and then get a new topside control to match the new motherboard and fit in the current control's topside location.

The overlay is just the thing that labels the buttons. You can peel off the existing overlay and stick on a new one.

It doesn't sound like changing the top side will help you if, because of the board, you're gaining a blower button and losing a heater button.

But, with all that being said, it still surprises me as to how difficult it has been to find anybody who might know somebody who has some idea as to where I might find information on the original Freeflow board. At this moment, I can assure all, that I am no great fan of Freeflow spas. ARRRRRGGGGGHHHHH!

Don

*lol* welcome to the wonderful world of hot tubbing! I think these guys usually have a clue http://actionsparepair.com/ maybe give them a call in the morning. The dealer side of things is very on top of it, hopefully the public part of their business is equally helpful and responsive.

I'm kinda surprised someone else hasn't jumped in here... but if you really get stuck let me know and I'll see what I can do.

Lori

[Recoil Rob]

You initially stated "If I return to the spa an hour or two later, the topside control will show that the temp is now at anything from 98 to as high as a code of HH and the spa won't operate. The water temp is still at 94 degrees, so I know that the heater has not been heating the water beyond the set 94 degrees."

When you return to the spa, after it has reached the temp set point (94˚) has the filter pump stopped or is it still running?

Run the spa without filters for a few days. If the problem goes away you need to clean or replace the filters.

Might be the board (sticking relay), might not. Where is the temp sensor situated? Is the hi limit sensor in water or clamped to the heater housing? If the second, try moving it to another part of the heater. Sometimes elements contact an area of the housing and it get hotter than others. If the sensor is in the element tube make sure it's not contacting the element.

One clogged jet should not give enough back pressure to cause a problem.

Stop buying parts before you have a better idea of what you need.

From what I know, and from what I think I understand, the 53532 will work just fine but because the main chip is not a FREE20R1B chip, the topside control won't function as it should.

Ah, see, comprendo. You might end up with blower, jets, heat, light vs. jets, light, down, up

We used to sell those things (Freeflow Spas) for a year or two and I can't for the life of me remember what the top side looked like. The 52532 board says the chip is R1x (a or b I guess). Too many spas, too many parts, too old now

I have been told, that there is an overlay for the topside control that will change the way the control switches duties are designated. How that works, I'm not sure. Maybe the way to go here is to replace my current Freeflow motherboard with a 52532 board and then get a new topside control to match the new motherboard and fit in the current control's topside location.

The overlay is just the thing that labels the buttons. You can peel off the existing overlay and stick on a new one.

It doesn't sound like changing the top side will help you if, because of the board, you're gaining a blower button and losing a heater button.

But, with all that being said, it still surprises me as to how difficult it has been to find anybody who might know somebody who has some idea as to where I might find information on the original Freeflow board. At this moment, I can assure all, that I am no great fan of Freeflow spas. ARRRRRGGGGGHHHHH!

Don

*lol* welcome to the wonderful world of hot tubbing! I think these guys usually have a clue http://actionsparepair.com/ maybe give them a call in the morning. The dealer side of things is very on top of it, hopefully the public part of their business is equally helpful and responsive.

I'm kinda surprised someone else hasn't jumped in here... but if you really get stuck let me know and I'll see what I can do.

Lori

[lkneisler]

I found the service manual. Since the sensors were both replaced (you replace both, right? Not just one?), unless you have bad luck and ended up with a faulty sensor, it says replace the board.

Just take Recoil Rob's suggestions to make sure it's not a legitimate Overheat error.

The 52532 board is 2003 and older. Time flies! The 53335 has a dip switch setting for the configuration of your top side OR the old one. Beats me why you can't get that board. It sounds like you're stuck with getting it from the dealer.

Balboa used to accept boards in for repair for $125. It took 4 weeks though.

Lori

[rustytbird]

I found the service manual. Since the sensors were both replaced (you replace both, right? Not just one?), unless you have bad luck and ended up with a faulty sensor, it says replace the board.

Just take Recoil Rob's suggestions to make sure it's not a legitimate Overheat error.

The 52532 board is 2003 and older. Time flies! The 53335 has a dip switch setting for the configuration of your top side OR the old one. Beats me why you can't get that board. It sounds like you're stuck with getting it from the dealer.

Balboa used to accept boards in for repair for $125. It took 4 weeks though.

Lori

In response to Recoil Bob:

Let me try this again.

The main power to the spa is turned on.

The spa will start to go through the "prime" mode then it will check the water temp using, I'm sure, the two sensors in the heater, then turn on the heater, and then the motor will start the pump to begin the 4 hour circulation phase. The heater will turn off when the water temp has reached the preset temp which has been set using the topside control.

Once the pump has started, the "jet" button on the topside control can be used to activate the 15 minute timed spas jets.

After 15 minutes the jets will turn off, but the pump is still running and the spa is still within the 4 hour circulation phase, so the jets can be turned on again for another 15 minute period. This scenario will continue until the 4 hour timed circulation phase has expired and the pump turns off.

Keep in mind that the water temp has been set at 95 degrees using the topside control panel. And the water temp of the water in the spa, as checked by a digital thermometer, in the spa is now 95 degrees. And note that the spa pump is now in its idle mode.

As time moves forward from this point, the temp reading in the digital display starts to gradually rise above the set 95 degrees. The temperature of the water in the spa, however, has not changed and remains at the preset 95 degrees. There has been no heater activity during this period. The digital temp reading in the topside control will continue to rise through out the spas idle time until it reaches a point where the topside control will indicate an "HH" code or a "Dy" code, and the spa will not operate. The pump cannot be turned on by using the topside control because the system has shut itself down.

I can restart the spa only by cutting the main power off, letting the spa sit for 10 to 15 minutes, and then turning the main power back on. Then the spa will start this cycle all over again by going into the "prime" mode again. This is the loop that I find myself in.

I hope that I did a better job of explaining my problem this time around.

Now for the rest of the story.

I have replaced both of the sensors and the topside control with no affect on the problem.

I have been trying to find a source for a new mother board for this spa because it looks like that may well be where my problem lies. I'm finding no Freeflow spa dealers that stock any of the parts. One of the dealers has told me that I must order any parts I need through their service tech. I have paced several calls and have left several messages with their service tech, but he doesn't return calls. This episode with the service tech guy has been going on now for almost a month(I am a fairly patient and understanding guy, but this is starting to wear a little thin). so that's why I've come here to this forum for advice and help.

And to respond to Lori:

I did talk with Terry ( a really nice guy ) at ActionSpaRepair.com regarding the possibility of switching out the motherboard to a Balboa# 52532 board and then using a different overlay on the topside control. This will work. However, before I go this route, I want to make sure that I've exhausted all hopes of finding a source for the Freeflow specific FF53335 board.

[Recoil Rob]

OK, that's more concise. And very timely, I have a customer that is having a similar problem, his spa goes from 71 to 79 then to OH in about 4 minutes.. I was in contact with Balboa yesterday as I have tried changing his sensors and we still have the problem.

Balboa's tech support said that they have seen this type of problem caused by the ozonator or the heating element backfeeding to the circuit board. I am going back there today or tomorrow to try Balboa's suggestions of unplugging the ozonator and disconnecting the heater leads at the element to try and isolate which piece of equipment it is. If neither of those work then, they say, it's the board.

Try unplugging your OZ first and see if that rectifies the problem, if not try the element. Neither of those? Then they say it's the board.

Good luck.

BTW, what is the chip # on the board you're looking for?

I found the service manual. Since the sensors were both replaced (you replace both, right? Not just one?), unless you have bad luck and ended up with a faulty sensor, it says replace the board.

Just take Recoil Rob's suggestions to make sure it's not a legitimate Overheat error.

The 52532 board is 2003 and older. Time flies! The 53335 has a dip switch setting for the configuration of your top side OR the old one. Beats me why you can't get that board. It sounds like you're stuck with getting it from the dealer.

Balboa used to accept boards in for repair for $125. It took 4 weeks though.

Lori

In response to Recoil Bob:

Let me try this again.

The main power to the spa is turned on.

The spa will start to go through the "prime" mode then it will check the water temp using, I'm sure, the two sensors in the heater, then turn on the heater, and then the motor will start the pump to begin the 4 hour circulation phase. The heater will turn off when the water temp has reached the preset temp which has been set using the topside control.

Once the pump has started, the "jet" button on the topside control can be used to activate the 15 minute timed spas jets.

After 15 minutes the jets will turn off, but the pump is still running and the spa is still within the 4 hour circulation phase, so the jets can be turned on again for another 15 minute period. This scenario will continue until the 4 hour timed circulation phase has expired and the pump turns off.

Keep in mind that the water temp has been set at 95 degrees using the topside control panel. And the water temp of the water in the spa, as checked by a digital thermometer, in the spa is now 95 degrees. And note that the spa pump is now in its idle mode.

As time moves forward from this point, the temp reading in the digital display starts to gradually rise above the set 95 degrees. The temperature of the water in the spa, however, has not changed and remains at the preset 95 degrees. There has been no heater activity during this period. The digital temp reading in the topside control will continue to rise through out the spas idle time until it reaches a point where the topside control will indicate an "HH" code or a "Dy" code, and the spa will not operate. The pump cannot be turned on by using the topside control because the system has shut itself down.

I can restart the spa only by cutting the main power off, letting the spa sit for 10 to 15 minutes, and then turning the main power back on. Then the spa will start this cycle all over again by going into the "prime" mode again. This is the loop that I find myself in.

I hope that I did a better job of explaining my problem this time around.

Now for the rest of the story.

I have replaced both of the sensors and the topside control with no affect on the problem.

I have been trying to find a source for a new mother board for this spa because it looks like that may well be where my problem lies. I'm finding no Freeflow spa dealers that stock any of the parts. One of the dealers has told me that I must order any parts I need through their service tech. I have paced several calls and have left several messages with their service tech, but he doesn't return calls. This episode with the service tech guy has been going on now for almost a month(I am a fairly patient and understanding guy, but this is starting to wear a little thin). so that's why I've come here to this forum for advice and help.

And to respond to Lori:

I did talk with Terry ( a really nice guy ) at ActionSpaRepair.com regarding the possibility of switching out the motherboard to a Balboa# 52532 board and then using a different overlay on the topside control. This will work. However, before I go this route, I want to make sure that I've exhausted all hopes of finding a source for the Freeflow specific FF53335 board.

[lkneisler]

BTW, what is the chip # on the board you're looking for?

His chip is FREE20R1B

[rustytbird]

OK, that's more concise. And very timely, I have a customer that is having a similar problem, his spa goes from 71 to 79 then to OH in about 4 minutes.. I was in contact with Balboa yesterday as I have tried changing his sensors and we still have the problem.

Balboa's tech support said that they have seen this type of problem caused by the ozonator or the heating element backfeeding to the circuit board. I am going back there today or tomorrow to try Balboa's suggestions of unplugging the ozonator and disconnecting the heater leads at the element to try and isolate which piece of equipment it is. If neither of those work then, they say, it's the board.

Try unplugging your OZ first and see if that rectifies the problem, if not try the element. Neither of those? Then they say it's the board.

Good luck.

BTW, what is the chip # on the board you're looking for?

The Chip # FREE20R1B

I found the service manual. Since the sensors were both replaced (you replace both, right? Not just one?), unless you have bad luck and ended up with a faulty sensor, it says replace the board.

Just take Recoil Rob's suggestions to make sure it's not a legitimate Overheat error.

The 52532 board is 2003 and older. Time flies! The 53335 has a dip switch setting for the configuration of your top side OR the old one. Beats me why you can't get that board. It sounds like you're stuck with getting it from the dealer.

Balboa used to accept boards in for repair for $125. It took 4 weeks though.

Lori

In response to Recoil Bob:

Hi Bob,

The chip # is FREE20R1B

Let me try this again.

The main power to the spa is turned on.

The spa will start to go through the "prime" mode then it will check the water temp using, I'm sure, the two sensors in the heater, then turn on the heater, and then the motor will start the pump to begin the 4 hour circulation phase. The heater will turn off when the water temp has reached the preset temp which has been set using the topside control.

Once the pump has started, the "jet" button on the topside control can be used to activate the 15 minute timed spas jets.

After 15 minutes the jets will turn off, but the pump is still running and the spa is still within the 4 hour circulation phase, so the jets can be turned on again for another 15 minute period. This scenario will continue until the 4 hour timed circulation phase has expired and the pump turns off.

Keep in mind that the water temp has been set at 95 degrees using the topside control panel. And the water temp of the water in the spa, as checked by a digital thermometer, in the spa is now 95 degrees. And note that the spa pump is now in its idle mode.

As time moves forward from this point, the temp reading in the digital display starts to gradually rise above the set 95 degrees. The temperature of the water in the spa, however, has not changed and remains at the preset 95 degrees. There has been no heater activity during this period. The digital temp reading in the topside control will continue to rise through out the spas idle time until it reaches a point where the topside control will indicate an "HH" code or a "Dy" code, and the spa will not operate. The pump cannot be turned on by using the topside control because the system has shut itself down.

I can restart the spa only by cutting the main power off, letting the spa sit for 10 to 15 minutes, and then turning the main power back on. Then the spa will start this cycle all over again by going into the "prime" mode again. This is the loop that I find myself in.

I hope that I did a better job of explaining my problem this time around.

Now for the rest of the story.

I have replaced both of the sensors and the topside control with no affect on the problem.

I have been trying to find a source for a new mother board for this spa because it looks like that may well be where my problem lies. I'm finding no Freeflow spa dealers that stock any of the parts. One of the dealers has told me that I must order any parts I need through their service tech. I have paced several calls and have left several messages with their service tech, but he doesn't return calls. This episode with the service tech guy has been going on now for almost a month(I am a fairly patient and understanding guy, but this is starting to wear a little thin). so that's why I've come here to this forum for advice and help.

And to respond to Lori:

I did talk with Terry ( a really nice guy ) at ActionSpaRepair.com regarding the possibility of switching out the motherboard to a Balboa# 52532 board and then using a different overlay on the topside control. This will work. However, before I go this route, I want to make sure that I've exhausted all hopes of finding a source for the Freeflow specific FF53335 board.

[rustytbird]

BTW, what is the chip # on the board you're looking for?

His chip is FREE20R1B

Bob,

The only things that are electrically connected to my board are the two sensors, the heater element, the motor, the spa light, the topside control panel,and of course the main power line. To run the test you suggested, regarding disconnecting the heater elements, just how do you suggest I go about it. Doing something like that with the main power still in the board box does not spound very attractive to me at all. But, if I cut the main power and then disconnect the heater I will be right back to square one with the spa going into it's prime mode but without heating the water back up to the set temp. Hmmmmm.

Also, how exactly is a spa heater supposed to work? When the spa is in its idle time, and the water temp drops below the set temp level, is the heater supposed to kick in to bring the water temp back up to the set level? Or, should the heater only turn on during the time that the spa is set to turn on? Say 2 times a day.

Don K.

[THE SPA GUY]

Depending on the heater model, you can set when it turns on.

Rustybird

the freeflow passport is a good tub we sell them the circuit board you are looking for ff53335 is the correct board for that unit the number is freeflow number , do you have a dealer near you that sells freeflow they can get the board,,,, but i would first check the filtern if it is plugged it may get a overheat code, but the heater either heats or doesn't yuo can check that through the board, make sure the dip switches are also set right, i believe number 2 is up all the others are down, hopefully this helps you out

[rustytbird]

Depending on the heater model, you can set when it turns on.

Rustybird

the freeflow passport is a good tub we sell them the circuit board you are looking for ff53335 is the correct board for that unit the number is freeflow number , do you have a dealer near you that sells freeflow they can get the board,,,, but i would first check the filtern if it is plugged it may get a overheat code, but the heater either heats or doesn't yuo can check that through the board, make sure the dip switches are also set right, i believe number 2 is up all the others are down, hopefully this helps you out

Bob,

Did you say that you had contacted freeflow and that they had a Freeflow control pack available to dealers that included the motherboard? I would be interested in this if it is available?

Don K.

[THE SPA GUY]

Depending on the heater model, you can set when it turns on.

Rustybird

the freeflow passport is a good tub we sell them the circuit board you are looking for ff53335 is the correct board for that unit the number is freeflow number , do you have a dealer near you that sells freeflow they can get the board,,,, but i would first check the filtern if it is plugged it may get a overheat code, but the heater either heats or doesn't yuo can check that through the board, make sure the dip switches are also set right, i believe number 2 is up all the others are down, hopefully this helps you out

Bob,

Did you say that you had contacted freeflow and that they had a Freeflow control pack available to dealers that included the motherboard? I would be interested in this if it is available?

Don K.

Don

Freeflows part number for the board is ff53335 suv board, the m7 complete pack ff53307

hope this helps you out

Eric