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Jandy Aquapure 1400


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Found this site trying to find out info on my Jandy system. It started showing a code 120 at first, then 121. The book said clean cell or DC cord problem. The 121 (cell reversing) code has been present now for a few days. I cleaned cell - didn't seem that dirty. System is producing chlorine. The book doesn't show anything about testing the DC cord. The circuit board has about 30 volts at the DC cord connection. I'm not sure what voltage should be at the 3 prong cell connection, or how I should go about checking the 3 ports for DC current and ground. I'm thinking the plug has a resister in it or it has resister wire going to the cell to lower voltage. The Aquapure 1400 is about 3-4 yrs. old. I called Jandy and didn't get any help reguarding voltage specs or what to check for. Only local repair companies. Do the DC cords on these units have problems? The system seems sort of basic.. meaning turning high voltage - to low voltage -to even lower controlled voltage. Any professional help or ideas welcomed. Thanks in advance.

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Found this site trying to find out info on my Jandy system. It started showing a code 120 at first, then 121. The book said clean cell or DC cord problem. The 121 (cell reversing) code has been present now for a few days. I cleaned cell - didn't seem that dirty. System is producing chlorine. The book doesn't show anything about testing the DC cord. The circuit board has about 30 volts at the DC cord connection. I'm not sure what voltage should be at the 3 prong cell connection, or how I should go about checking the 3 ports for DC current and ground. I'm thinking the plug has a resister in it or it has resister wire going to the cell to lower voltage. The Aquapure 1400 is about 3-4 yrs. old. I called Jandy and didn't get any help reguarding voltage specs or what to check for. Only local repair companies. Do the DC cords on these units have problems? The system seems sort of basic.. meaning turning high voltage - to low voltage -to even lower controlled voltage. Any professional help or ideas welcomed. Thanks in advance.

What you really need in a clamp on amp meter to test current draw when the unit is generating. clamp around wires that go to the cord.

Some of the older units had problems with the small board the controls cell voltage

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That sounds like an idea. I only have a basic digital volt/ohm meter. Still need to know min. and max. voltage at the cell though. Wierd thing is today the system worked right for 5 hours before setting a service code 121. If there is a problem it usually does that within 5 minutes right? At least it is making chlorine while it's showing the service code.

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Here, maybe this can help...

AP1400Backboard.jpg

There are voltage values printed right on the Circuit board for the x-former as well as the cell. If all the values are within limits, I'm afraid the problem is the cell or the cord. Look inside the holes in the cord, are they nice and clean? The voltage is 22 to 28 volts DC (cell on) check voltage at the board first then check at the cell. Lift the plug off the cell just enough to get your probes in to take a reading. One prob in the center post then other to either outside post.

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Here, maybe this can help...

There are voltage values printed right on the Circuit board for the x-former as well as the cell. If all the values are within limits, I'm afraid the problem is the cell or the cord. Look inside the holes in the cord, are they nice and clean? The voltage is 22 to 28 volts DC (cell on) check voltage at the board first then check at the cell. Lift the plug off the cell just enough to get your probes in to take a reading. One prob in the center post then other to either outside post.

Thanks! I seen that on my circuit board. I measured it about a week ago, and it if I remember right was about 30 volts at the - and + terminals at the circuit board. I wasn't sure if I was checking the plug end correctly. I think it was unplugged from the cell and with the black probe in the center and checking both outer ports measured 15 volts. About half of the voltage at the board. Is it suppose to be the same at the cell? Or, does it need to be connected to test correctly? I was thinking the cord dropped the voltage lower with resisters or wire. The connections in the plug look really clean and the prongs on the cell looked good. I cleaned them anyway to make sure the connection was good. I'm hoping it isn't the cell, if it is just the cord that would be alot easier of a fix and cost less. Again, THANKS!

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Check the x-former voltages too, 1-8 test points

If you got 30 volts, It was probably unplugged from the cell. Plug the cord into the cell but leave enough room to squeeze a test probe in there to check voltage (cell on). If the cord looks clean, and your getting good voltage, I'm afraid you may need a new cell.

How old is this cell?

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Check the x-former voltages too, 1-8 test points

If you got 30 volts, It was probably unplugged from the cell. Plug the cord into the cell but leave enough room to squeeze a test probe in there to check voltage (cell on). If the cord looks clean, and your getting good voltage, I'm afraid you may need a new cell.

How old is this cell?

Today it was running for 5 hours before it presented a 121 code. While it was OK - with CELL ON and FLOW ON light lit up. I measured at the cell with the plug pulled beck just far enough for the meter leads to fit. It was at 27.9 volts one time and 30.9 another time. Same reading at both end pins with ground lead on center one. When it was on CELL REVERSING it was reading -30.9 volts. It was working like it should almost until it was time for the system timer to shut off. Like I said, it is making chlorine. The cell is almost 4 years old. Anyway to test the cell? My local pool store can't test Jandy cells.

Are the x-former voltages the test points on the upper left of the circuit board #1 - #8 ? What voltage should be there? one test lead at #1 and ground? or one lead on #1 and the other on #8 ?

Thanks for all the help. I don't want to just throw parts at it if I can help it. The cell is half the price of a new system.

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If your cell is making Cl, Theres your cell test. You may have an intermittent problem, in which case I would just run it till it quits (start saving for a new cell now).

Test leads go on 1-8 then 2-7 then 3-6, and 4-5 (with cell on). voltages for each printed on the board.

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If your cell is making Cl, Theres your cell test. You may have an intermittent problem, in which case I would just run it till it quits (start saving for a new cell now).

Test leads go on 1-8 then 2-7 then 3-6, and 4-5 (with cell on). voltages for each printed on the board.

Yep it's making Chlorine. I intend to run the cell until it is junk. Today it didn't miss a beat, no service code. Then I noticed the 3 way valve for solar heater decided to start leaking at the shaft seal. I'm glad I have a collection of o-rings. Pulled actuator motor and removed valve, replaced o-ring seals and it's fixed.

Thanks!

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  • 3 weeks later...

The system seems to have a mind of it's own. It will sound the audible alarm and show the 120 or 121 codes for a while along with the orange warning light. Then it will rest the cell and turn the cell back on, and the light and alarm are off. Everything is normal most of the time I go check it. Then once and a while I hear a single beep and light is on while a service code. The cell is still producing chlorine, so I dont see a problem other than a beep noise every so often. Pool Clown is most likely correct in saying the cell is showing sign of failure. I'm going to clean it and keep it going as long as possible.

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