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Aqua Rite Control Panel Problem


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I'm having a problem with my Aqua Rite contol panel on my salt water system. I have Goldline Aqua Rite system with a T-15 cell. The digital display shows all readings, but when I turn the system on the "no flow" light blinks for about 30 seconds to a minute, then immediately the "generating" light blinks for about 10 seconds then turns off. There are no lights showing, not even the power. The digital display is working fine. I checked the fuse under the box and it is not blown. I just replaced the cell last year and I called the manufacturer and they told me it's not the cell but in the contol panel. I don't want to get a tech out here if it's something I can handle on my own. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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I'm having a problem with my Aqua Rite contol panel on my salt water system. I have Goldline Aqua Rite system with a T-15 cell. The digital display shows all readings, but when I turn the system on the "no flow" light blinks for about 30 seconds to a minute, then immediately the "generating" light blinks for about 10 seconds then turns off. There are no lights showing, not even the power. The digital display is working fine. I checked the fuse under the box and it is not blown. I just replaced the cell last year and I called the manufacturer and they told me it's not the cell but in the contol panel. I don't want to get a tech out here if it's something I can handle on my own. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Did you just open the pool? Were do you live? Salt Gen do not work with cold water under 65 very well if at all, and the Aqua rite does all kinds of wierd things with cold water

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I'm having a problem with my Aqua Rite contol panel on my salt water system. I have Goldline Aqua Rite system with a T-15 cell. The digital display shows all readings, but when I turn the system on the "no flow" light blinks for about 30 seconds to a minute, then immediately the "generating" light blinks for about 10 seconds then turns off. There are no lights showing, not even the power. The digital display is working fine. I checked the fuse under the box and it is not blown. I just replaced the cell last year and I called the manufacturer and they told me it's not the cell but in the contol panel. I don't want to get a tech out here if it's something I can handle on my own. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I didn't notice any mention of your flow switch. Have you checked it or possibly it's alignment. I had to replace mine. It should be located in the line somewhere around your cell. It has indications as to how it should be placed with flow direction. You can also do a check by using a simple phone cord with its wall plug. It's the same type of cord used by the flow switch. Cut the phone cord leaving about 6" length. Cut the outer cover exposing the 4 wires inside. There should be a red, blue, green and yellow wire. Strip the wire covers and twist together the red and green wires. Do the same for the blue and yellow wires. Tape the connections seperately using electrical tape. Remove the flow switch cord and connect the phone cord into the control panel. If the panel works your flow switch needs replacing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Regarding the phone cord test - It would be VERY IMPORTANT to point out that this is for testing only! Please, do not leave this installed to save yourself the cost of a flow switch. You will create a very dangerous situation if you remove or bypass ANY of the safety devices on this or any system.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Help Please

My display just starting reading cold and doesnt generate. What happens is when i turn it on the flow indicator flashes as normal for 15 seconds or so then the power and generating light is solid green as the salt level is indicated on the LCD at 3100. Then after about 15 seconds I hear a click from the PCB and then cold is displayed on the LCD and the generating light begins to flash. Its not cold outside and the water temperature is about 76. Its never done this before at this temperature. If anybody can help I would appreciate it. Also, I had the t-15 cell tested at the store and it tested fine.

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My guess would be it is a bad cell. The cell has an internal thermistor that reads water temperature, and if it is reading incorrectly, then it would be a problem with the cell. I will tell you though, it may be under warranty if it is less than 3 years old. I am a warranty station for Goldline Controls in so. california. I have been to many service calls where the homeowner said they took it to a local pool supply and it tested fine, and it wasn't, and vice versa. So, i would not rely on the test results of your local pool store. If it were me, i would call a local warranty tech, and have it tested, the only way to verify what i've said would be to swap out the cell and see if that corrects it. Because the cells are very expensive, most homeowners don't have an extra laying around, or are willing to buy one just to test it.

Good luck.

P.S. hopefully you mad absolutely sure the cell is cleaned, correct???

Paul

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My guess would be it is a bad cell. The cell has an internal thermistor that reads water temperature, and if it is reading incorrectly, then it would be a problem with the cell. I will tell you though, it may be under warranty if it is less than 3 years old. I am a warranty station for Goldline Controls in so. california. I have been to many service calls where the homeowner said they took it to a local pool supply and it tested fine, and it wasn't, and vice versa. So, i would not rely on the test results of your local pool store. If it were me, i would call a local warranty tech, and have it tested, the only way to verify what i've said would be to swap out the cell and see if that corrects it. Because the cells are very expensive, most homeowners don't have an extra laying around, or are willing to buy one just to test it.

Good luck.

P.S. hopefully you mad absolutely sure the cell is cleaned, correct???

Paul

I borrowed a friends working t-cell and I am getting the same problems. He put mine in his and it works fine so I think I can eliminate it being the t-cell. My only other guess is the transformer or the PCB. I wonder what the chances are that it is the transfomer vs the PCB. I want to make an educated guess at this point because the local tech people either don't want to come out if they didn't put it in or they want to charge me a 120 bucks which is NOT covered under the warranty. I called goldline and he didnt have a clue. I told them I felt I was on my own especially when they informed me that since I am not the original owner I am not covered by the warranty even if I was still under one. At this point I will either take a gamble on it being the PCB board at around 200 bucks or buying a complete system with t cell, transformer, PCB and all for 800 after rebate on the internet. Thank goodness for the internet because it means you don't have to deal with people except for the fine folks like you out on the message boards. Thanks for any advice

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You don't have to buy a cell if you are buying a new AquaRite. The "Pick n Mix" program started this year where you can pick your swg, Aqua Rite Pro or AquaRite, then pick your cell size. Your cell is a T-15, that will work with either chloring gennie.

I am having a similar problem. My power and generating light click on and off. While they click on and off I cycle through the diagnostic display. The cell voltage starts counting up from 0 and the cell current reads 0. These according to the specs should read 22.0-25.0 for the cell voltage and 4.5 to 7.8 amps for the cell current. I am going to replace the main pcb as the constant clicking is not right. Speaking with Goldline they also agreed that it is most likely the board. This would be the second board in 4 years. Goldline told me that possibly I could get a 40% pro-rated price from a local service call. Still if it is more then $250.00 I could install it myself for less money.

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You don't have to buy a cell if you are buying a new AquaRite. The "Pick n Mix" program started this year where you can pick your swg, Aqua Rite Pro or AquaRite, then pick your cell size. Your cell is a T-15, that will work with either chloring gennie.

I am having a similar problem. My power and generating light click on and off. While they click on and off I cycle through the diagnostic display. The cell voltage starts counting up from 0 and the cell current reads 0. These according to the specs should read 22.0-25.0 for the cell voltage and 4.5 to 7.8 amps for the cell current. I am going to replace the main pcb as the constant clicking is not right. Speaking with Goldline they also agreed that it is most likely the board. This would be the second board in 4 years. Goldline told me that possibly I could get a 40% pro-rated price from a local service call. Still if it is more then $250.00 I could install it myself for less money.

I am having the EXACT same problem as the original Poster. The no flow light flashes for about 30 seconds, then the check cell light flashes and then all lights go out. The display is showing 3200 PPM for the salt as well. Goldline says I need to have a tech come out an replace the board for about $900. There has to be a better solution than this? HELP!

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I installed the new board and all is back to normal (for now!)

I am having a different problem with my Aquarite Control Panel, but it is also apparently the board. (Clicks over to low salt/check cell lights after 2 minutes of generation; salt is fine, cell is new). Where did you get the replacement board for $200? I cant find one.

Thanks in Advance!

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You don't have to buy a cell if you are buying a new AquaRite. The "Pick n Mix" program started this year where you can pick your swg, Aqua Rite Pro or AquaRite, then pick your cell size. Your cell is a T-15, that will work with either chloring gennie.

I am having a similar problem. My power and generating light click on and off. While they click on and off I cycle through the diagnostic display. The cell voltage starts counting up from 0 and the cell current reads 0. These according to the specs should read 22.0-25.0 for the cell voltage and 4.5 to 7.8 amps for the cell current. I am going to replace the main pcb as the constant clicking is not right. Speaking with Goldline they also agreed that it is most likely the board. This would be the second board in 4 years. Goldline told me that possibly I could get a 40% pro-rated price from a local service call. Still if it is more then $250.00 I could install it myself for less money.

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Is there a way to check to see if the cell is bad? If I need another cell this will make 3 cells in 4 years. The board was replaced before this cell. I have had the water checked all is good (initially the stabilizer was a little low but not bad), according to store salt is 3200. I have cleaned the cell with the acid/water solution. Initially when I turn the unit on it will BRIEFLY read ~3400 then CLICK the numbers begin to drop and then lights are steady on Low Salt and Check Cell again. Before the CLICK the board reads 2000 and -1800? Any ideas? Customer care/tech support is not what it was when I purchased this unit!

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I started having the exact same problem about a week ago.

- My salt level is fine

- my stabilizer is good

but my aqurite is not generating any salt.

when I turn it on (like the other posts I have seen) the no flow light flashes for a little bit, then the generating light comes on for a few seconds, then nothing. The pwer light never comes on.

The LCD display works fine.

When I called Hayward (Goldline) for support they said my water was too cold (62f) so I waited until it hit 70f, still the same problem.

Now they said my cell was probably no good, so I just got a new one put it in and same problem.

I looked in the panel and noticed that the big capacitor on the top right of the board seems burnt. So looks like I need a new board.

My question is.

Since this seems to be a common problem ( i've seen quite a few posts on the boards, I can only imagine how many more units have had the same issue) Should this not be a major defect that should be taken care of 100% by Hayward?

And why don't the support people know about this issue?

My pool was installed August 2005 I live in Montreal Quebec.

I don't know if the cold winters have any effect on the board (since it is left outside all winter, the cell is removed and stored)

Anyway I will try to return my new cell and look into replacing the board.

If there are any Hayward people monitoring this board I would love to have some input on this situation.

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  • 3 months later...
I started having the exact same problem about a week ago.

- My salt level is fine

- my stabilizer is good

but my aqurite is not generating any salt.

when I turn it on (like the other posts I have seen) the no flow light flashes for a little bit, then the generating light comes on for a few seconds, then nothing. The pwer light never comes on.

The LCD display works fine.

When I called Hayward (Goldline) for support they said my water was too cold (62f) so I waited until it hit 70f, still the same problem.

Now they said my cell was probably no good, so I just got a new one put it in and same problem.

I looked in the panel and noticed that the big capacitor on the top right of the board seems burnt. So looks like I need a new board.

My question is.

Since this seems to be a common problem ( i've seen quite a few posts on the boards, I can only imagine how many more units have had the same issue) Should this not be a major defect that should be taken care of 100% by Hayward?

And why don't the support people know about this issue?

My pool was installed August 2005 I live in Montreal Quebec.

I don't know if the cold winters have any effect on the board (since it is left outside all winter, the cell is removed and stored)

Anyway I will try to return my new cell and look into replacing the board.

If there are any Hayward people monitoring this board I would love to have some input on this situation.

I had the same problem, I replaced the current limiter but still the same thing. NO FLOW for about 10 sec, then GENERATING for about 30 secs, then nothing. I noticed a post about the sensor in the cell (with the phone cord) Any idea where to get that sensor?

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  • 11 months later...

I'm having a problem with my Aqua Rite contol panel on my salt water system. I have Goldline Aqua Rite system with a T-15 cell. The digital display shows all readings, but when I turn the system on the "no flow" light blinks for about 30 seconds to a minute, then immediately the "generating" light blinks for about 10 seconds then turns off. There are no lights showing, not even the power. The digital display is working fine. I checked the fuse under the box and it is not blown. I just replaced the cell last year and I called the manufacturer and they told me it's not the cell but in the contol panel. I don't want to get a tech out here if it's something I can handle on my own. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Not sure if this is the same problem, but have you checked nocellpower.com? This worked for me.

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  • 1 year later...

I have a similar problem although I don't appear to have any power. No lights are displayed and my chlorine level is low so it obviously isn't working. The display has been partially burned out for several years so it has been different to read the results so I have manually tested the water although the lights worked to inform me of power, low salt, inspect cell, etc. I assume it could be the board but my system is 10 years old so I'm not sure it's worth replacing the board.

Any advice or opinions?

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  • 2 years later...

 

I'm having a problem with my Aqua Rite contol panel on my salt water system. I have Goldline Aqua Rite system with a T-15 cell. The digital display shows all readings, but when I turn the system on the "no flow" light blinks for about 30 seconds to a minute, then immediately the "generating" light blinks for about 10 seconds then turns off. There are no lights showing, not even the power. The digital display is working fine. I checked the fuse under the box and it is not blown. I just replaced the cell last year and I called the manufacturer and they told me it's not the cell but in the contol panel. I don't want to get a tech out here if it's something I can handle on my own. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 
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