pooltech9

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Probably just a spider web in the gas orifice directly below the flame sensor. Remove the orifice with a 7/16" wrench and clear it out.

The problem is probably the spiders again. You should have taken the gas orifice out completely and cleared the web out. Use a 7/16" wrench and take them off to clear them. Poking with a paper clip will only make a small hole and knock debris into the gas manifold, which will eventually make it's way back to clog up again. Be careful not to cross-thread the orifices when you put them back in. Before you do anything make sure your propane tank is full or at least 30-40%.

Thanks PC. I've asked around and that's about what I'm hearing.

Fellow Poolers, I have a leak in one of my very buried lines. I am contemplating trying this Fix-a-Leak liquid in an attempt to seal it before I start searching with Geo Phones and digging. Does anyone have any experience with this stuff?

Take an old telephone jack, cut & splice the 2 wires together. Unplug your flow switch from the bottom of the AquaRite box and plug in the phone jack. If the no flow light goes out you need a new flow switch.

Make sure the gas valve is turned on.

Seems like you got lucky. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

You will need to purchase a GLX-PCB-RITE. You have fried your board and it is evident that you wired it wrong. When you put the new board in, do not move the jumpers on the wiring terminals, bring the 220v into terminals 1 and 4.

Check youu incoming voltage. This is typical of what happens when the jumpers are configured for 120v and you run 240v.

You either have a trace of Baquacil or an Ozonator on your pool.

Go with a Hayward TriStar 1/2 hp

This pump requires no less than 2" plumbing. If you have 1 1/2" pvc you are not likely to get a full prime and you may shorten the life of the motor.

If you have been running a 380, you have the 3/4 hp booster pump that is compatible with the Hayward Phantom. This is the only pressure cleaner that skims the surface as well as cleans the steps and everywhere else. Check it out, you will be happy with it.

You need a new board. Gavin's comment above is incorrect. The t-15 will only be in you diagnostic menu if the board revision is 1.5 or later. You posted 1.33rev. And the flow switch needs to have 12" of straight pipe upstream from it and the cell can be used as this. You can install the cell anyway you want, horizontal, vertical, upside down, cord side first or not, it makes no difference. Get yourself a new GLX-PCB-RITE. Follow the instructions that come with it and use the new wires as well. Your new board revision is wired differently than ver 1.33. The illustrations on the instructions make it a very simple replacement.

The angle cut goes up. The straw is to eliminate an air bubble in the strainer cover.

Follow the directions and use the teflon tape that comes with it. It says to put 4 wraps of tape on the threads, wrapping in the direction that the threads go. You will be able to tighten them in until the fitting is flush with the chlorinator body.

There is no way to bypass the cell temp sensor. You must replace the cell.

If you are heating your pool I would suggest pointing the jets down.

Don't give up! Balance your pool first. When your chlorine reading is 1-3ppm, check and see what your ORP reading is and set the ORP setting to that number. If you don't use your orp sensor and go with the timed %, you can still get a pH reading. The biggest problem with the Sense & Dispense is overmanagement.

By the way, the sensors are about $300. each. You may consider going to the Maintenence Menu -> Clean Probe Wizard. It will tell you how to clean your probes. Should be done montly at a minimum.

Configuration Menu-Unlock-> Chlor Config. hit + to Enabled Chemistry Wizard -> Chlorine Feed -> hit + until it says Timed%. Settings -> Set your Chlorinator % to 50%, run it for a few days, test the chlorine level each day, adjust it.

You have your manuals mixed up. The Hayward DE4820 has always had the inlet at the bottom bulkhead fitting for the Multiport or Plunger valve to attach to. If you have the correct valve there is no mistaking it. Their Cartridge filter such as the C4020 is the same exact tank but the inlet is on the top.

If you get a 2 speed pump it will run nearly silent in low speed

You must be at least 4' from any window or door, and 10' from a forced air intake per the National Gas Code. Local codes may be more. Check your local code enforcement office. The Hayward unit comes standard with a Cupro-Nickel heat exchanger which is more resilient than the standard copper that Ray Pak offers. You should make sure your gas line will accomodate whichever you choose. The owner's manuals are available on the manufacturer's website and contain valuable gas supply info as well as other installation info.