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Showing results for tags 'Hot Springs'.
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I had been noticing this month that the control panel is getting a little harder to use, normally I go out and push the button for ten mins and let it run so I can test my water. Lately I have been having to press either of the buttons a few times before they respond. Four days ago I went out and my water was almost warm, I left it alone after unplugging the power, and searched Google for Classic F Jets work but no heat. I ran into something about the circulation pump, and I had forgotten to see if the water was circulating. I went out yesterday plugged it back in and saw the water circulating. Left it plugged in this time. Today I found something about the Hi-Limit Thermistor, so I went out to find it and see if I could see anything that looks odd about it so I might know if its having a problem. I noticed a white crust on the outside of one of the Thermistor, So I took a picture of it. I am not sure what one is what so the one with the white crust on it is the one at the far end. I also noticed that the plugs on the other end of the wire are very loose and floppy. Heater going bad or Thermistor going bad? After I took the photo I decided to feel the water and it is warm again. Did I reset something by unplugging ? Also this link has a photo of the other side of the wires, I see bare covered wires on one of the plugs does this need to be addressed? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/itsmeab4u/Hot%20Tub/IMG_20120727_144750.jpg -
Tiger River Spa by Hot Springs (serial M-130143). SO, I've had this maintenance-heavy spa a while--and after changing out the relays a couple times over the years, and finding a new main board that was still available for this old spa I decided to change it out. I replaced the top controller board as well. Now the spa comes on when plugged in and immediately the GFCI shuts it down, but only when the main pump or thermostat is turned up. Disconnecting the heater and main pump alleviates the shut down (so I guess I'll be looking for moisture and ground faults in my heater and pump)---but Also, the circ pump shuts off after running for 30 seconds--even when I jump the flow switch on the main board! Now what?? It's a brand new board?!?!? Why might this 30 second shutdown be happening?
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All- tldr; Where does an air bleed line go to? Two links, one is in the filter area. Do I need the other? So I broke the 1/4" air bleed trying to restart my 2001 vanguard yesterday. Went to the hardware store, grabbed the parts and some epoxy and rebuilt it. While trying to maneuver the 1/4" air bleed line into place a t-tap broke off on the other end. One end goes into the filter area and the other snakes around the side where I have to remove the covering to get to it (I already started and decided to stop until I have better advice, it looks like a mess to tear that foam away for something I don't even understand. Where does it go?
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Just Purchased a new hot springs rythm. after a day it was at 102, which I had set it too. however after using it for 30 minutes, it won’t maintain a temp over 98 degrees - usually around 97. it was pretty cold out, 25, but we’ve never had this issue in the past. any suggestions? The lcd doesn’t display is the heater is on or off, so I’m not sure when it’s actually heating.
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2001 Hot Springs Grandee in near perfect condition used daily. Again, tube is in excellent condition. Has been used daily since new. Have replaced normal stuff over years to include circ pump, main pump impellors, jets, etc... Recently main heater 30AMP GCFI has started tripping after hours or days. I cannot tell you exact circumstances that trip the GCFI. It seems always to happen when tub is open and jets are turned on (requiring heating mode). I have replaced IN ORDER : 30AMP GCFI , HEATING ELEMENT , HEATER PCB CONTROL BOARD This is a standard HOT SPRING setup so has subpanel with a 30AMP GCFI breaker for the heater and a 20AMP GCFI breaker for the tube pumps/control board. I have NOT used a meter to measure AMP draw of the heater yet. Just seems hard to believe new heater is bad. AND, of course, maybe new GCFI is bad also. ?!?! The tub acts normally when first turned on. Without running jets, the tub will heat up to EXAMPLE 102 within hours. But after several days heater GFI will be tripped. OR.... if you run tub jets with top open, GFI will trip. ALSO.... circulation pump appears normal and filters clean. I have the side "water-fall" option that lets you see the recirc pump water flow. Also, I do not get the HI-LIMIT flashing light and tub shut-down if recirc pump is low flow. QUESTION: I DO NOT FEEL the high heat flow out of the bottom vent of the tub like normal when you have jets running. Is the heater in these tubs ONE heat mode ? Off / ON. Or is there a HI / LOW mode? APPRECIATE THOUGHTS.
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Just acquired a 2005 Hot springs Vanguard hot tub. It hasn't been filled in a year or 2 and needs cleaned pretty good. What is the best way to get this clean before filling it up and running cleaner through the system?
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Hi again all, I have a Hot Springs Hot Spot SX that isn't heating. I'm able to set the target temp and the spa will attempt to run and heat up but after a while I get the following error code while the jets are running - display reads ===== with 'ready' slowly blinking, with filter cycle icon in lower right lit and jet icon in lower left lit. I already replaced the electronic pressure switch thinking this would solve the problem, but it's doing the same thing. Any guidance is much appreciated!
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Hi all, I have a Hot Springs Hot Spot SX that isn't heating. I'm able to set the target temp and the spa will attempt to run and heat up but after a while I get the following error code while the jets are running - display reads ===== with 'ready' slowly blinking, with filter cycle icon in lower right lit and jet icon in lower left lit. I feel like I may need to replace the electronic pressure switch because it dripped slowly for a couple minutes when I first turned it on. Any guidance is much appreciated!
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Hi, I have a hot spot mallorca. I was in for a long time last night, more than an hour. Suddenly the spa power went out. The fuse (on the spa's outdoor outlet) had popped. I got out and turned the fuse back on, the display panel lit up, I hit the jet button and the fuse popped again immediately. I tried again today, same result. I opened the service panel today, no apparent problem, nothing was wet in there. Does this sound like a familiar problem to anyone? Does a hot tub have an internal fuse that may burn out and cause this? Thanks!
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I have a Tiger River Spa, the Sumatran N model. Recently, the water went cold, and I could not get it to heat. After following threads and discussions in this site and others, I tested and was able to determine that the heater was bad. At that point, everything else in the spa worked, and no circuits had been tripped. Jets ran, control board worked, main circuit board green light and red light both lit. The failed heater was a Watkins No Fault 6000 with the following information on the sticker on the bottom of the unit: 240V6000W, THJ01, SET-DO-OH-CO, 11113, 240328, 36(8?)10 REV K. The replacement heater, as recommended by Watkin's, is a Watkins PDR Titatium 1.5KW/6KW - model #73790. I drained the tub, replaced the heater, and then refilled the tub with the filter removed and the hose in the filter housing tube to reduce the chance of air locks. I then replaced the filter, turned the power back on, and purged the pumps by turning the jets on and off. Everything appeared to work properly. I then added a bottle of the enzyme mix from Carefree Spa, called Le Natural Spa, which I have used for the last 6-8 months. Per instructions, I removed the filter, and added the solution to the filter housing. The instructions then called for me to circulate the spa for 15 minutes. I turned on the jets, and went about cleaning up. After about five minutes, the jets stopped. The jets "on" icon was still visible on the read out on the control board, but no jets operation. I tried to turn the jets off and then on, but to no avail. I checked the circuit board and no circuits had been tripped. I then cut the power to the spa at the circuit board, and let it sit for 30 minutes or so. When I powered it back up, but the jets would still not kick in. Instead, there was a clicking sound from the circuit boards, and I noticed that when I first pushed the jets button, a small green light would light at the very top of the smaller relay board, and then it would click and the very small green led light went out and the small red led light next to it would come on. Previously this had been a constant green. I tried turning off the heater at the circuit board, to see if the jets would then work with the heater out of the mix. That did not work. It was getting late, so I let the tub heat overnight. The heater brought the water temp to the set temperature during the night. In the morning, I went out and tried the jets again, and they came on, but once again after a few minutes they shut down. I have powered the spa down from the main circuit box and let sit for 30 minutes before powering up again, to no avail. At this point, all I get is the above described clicks and shift from the small green to red led on the top of the smaller relay board. I also tried inserting the hose with water turn on high into the filter housing tube to remove any air locks. Any ideas anyone?
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Hotsprings instructs users to put all chemicals only into the filter compartment. We are using bromine granules, and coincidentally?? the only time my water remained clear is after I put the bromine in the main tub area rather than filer area. Is this a coincidence? Background I have a new hotsprings Pulse spa and the water was cloudy after several days. I discovered the installer put the ozonator check valve in backwards. After many attempts with dealer to fix the chemistry, we finally drained and refilled tub, Then followed all instructions and water became cloudy after a few days, I proceeded to put in bromine 2.5 tablespoons for 380 gal tub. After 16 hours no free bromine detected. Ph 7.2 and alkalinity 122 water still cloudy Next I put in 4 tablespoons (super shock) but this time directly into tub not thru filter area (I also changed filter) Note "older" filter is only 1 month old and has been rinsed every week. Left cover off for 6 hours. Now finally water is clear. What was the problem?? Filter, putting bromine into filter area, check valve? other?? Lastly Should I switch to tablets or chlorine
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I have a 2006 Hot Springs Vista (same as a Grandee with different seat layout). I need to replace the original Freshwater III ozone generator. I intend to replace everything associated with it at the same time, such as the tubing, check valve and injector. I would like to buy the replacement parts online before I open the panel, but, I need to know if I need a 120 volt unit or a 240 volt unit and what kind of plug or connection on the end of the cord. The spa is 240 volt, but, that doesn't necessarily mean the ozone generator is 240, although, I suspect it to be. Another question is, is there any real difference between the various brands of corona discharge ozone generators? The Freshwater III is $272 everywhere while units such as the Del 50MCD go for around $99. If the Freshwater is worth almost three times the price, I will pay it, if not, I will buy the Del or another brand. Thank you for any help. Allan
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Hi all, I put my leaking Vanguard up on cinder blocks and dug up through the bottom to find the location of a leak (hopefully *the*leak.) But could someone help me understand what I’m looking at? I’m assuming this is a stretch of flex PVC that is encased in insulating foam? It has a kind of bulge in it -- is that just a random accumulation of foam or a fitting? Water drips off the bottom of the bulge and it feels like the area above it is burst wide open. I was thinking I should cut out the damaged section, and PVC cement in a new short stretch with a fitting on either side, but I can’t quite imagine how I will clean all that foam off for a good fitting. The leak is approximately between "I" and "J" in the red area below (the leak drains the tub down to the jet stream jet "J" without the spa running): Here is a video that shows the leak location: https://youtu.be/tJKnqA7adhk Thank you in advance for any help or advice!
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Hi all, I recently took a chance on paying to move a free 2001 Hot Springs Vanguard. The owners said the “pump and heater” were replaced in the “last few years.” They also said there was a small leak from a “pump or hose.” I figured as long as it’s drained I might as well do a few replacements/repairs that are likely culprits for the leak. Reading around it seemed like the pump is a likely source, so I though I’d just look to see which pump --- circulation or jet --- was recently replaced, and then go ahead and replace the other one (figuring it was probably due after 14 years.) But, looking inside, neither pump seems particularly new, and both pumps match the specs on the original spa: a Wavemaster 9000 jet pump and a Silentflo 5000 circ pump. I do think the heater was replaced but more like 7 years ago than “a few.” So this raises some questions: - any thoughts on either pump as a more likely source of a leak? I read that a new pump seal is a good, cheap first fix for a potential leak but I’m not sure which pump or how to find the correct seal for these older pumps. - any advice on a general strategy for repairs or tune ups to do *before* I get this thing wired up and filled up? Or do I need to just get it running and then try to diagnose any issues? - any other obvious red flags you can see in the pics below (hopefully clickable thumbnails)? Many thanks in advance for your thoughts!
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Hi. First time posting, and hope to get some advice on my 2003 Hot Springs Sovereign model. It takes a lot of direct sun and the wood skirt/siding has deteriorated badly and needs to be replaced all the way around. I've had contractors (not spa specialists) tell me that the cost would be prohibitive (2K) and I should just consider a replacement. Is there an easy, reasonable fix to replace the siding with something durable? I hate to toss an otherwise good spa, but have to do something because the inner insulation is now exposed and things will only get worse. Thanks.
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I purchased a used Hot Springs Prodigy H hot tub. They originally had it wired using the 115 VAC wiring. When I installed it I went ahead and converted the tub to the 220 VAC converted Spa wiring. I did everything as described. Used 8-3 wire from the panel to the sub panel (55ft). then 10-2 and 12-2 wire from the two (30A & 20A) GFCI breakers in the sub panel to the hot tub (8ft). All wires are sealed in the liquid tight casing and fittings. I removed the jumpers on the Terminal block and installed one at the 4 & 5 locations and installed the program jumpers in locations 1, 2, 3, & 9 as directed by the owners manual and the wiring label on the back of the board cover. When I turn on power to the spa the LIM OK light is lit up green and the control unplugged is lit up red. Nothing will operate. I have triple checked everything and I can not seem to figure out what I am over looking. The control is plugged in and I witnessed it with my own eyes working correctly before I swapped it to the 230 VAC converted spa requirements. What am i missing?
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Greetings - this is my first post on the forum but I have been reading the forum frequently for the last month or so. It has been very useful, thanks so much to all of you experienced folks who take the time to post such good info. I have been doing a lot of research and dealer visits and so far my favorites are the Bullfrog A8L and the Hot Springs Envoy. I have been quoted about $13K for the A8L, the Envoy quote is harder to pin down and seems to vary between about $12.5K and $14.5K depending on phase of moon and whether dealer is in "special sale this week!" mode. What are good prices on these tubs? I'm trying to figure out what I should aim for. Trying to find pricing information from actual owners has been tough, particularly on the NXT models. There are still no user reviews for the NXT tubs on the Hot Springs site either, have any of you actually purchased one - if so how do you like it? I am going to visit another city next week that happens to have a Jacuzzi dealer so I will check them out as well. I have visited a number of other spa dealers and while most of the products I have seen appear to be pretty decent, the dealer salesmen left much to be desired. Is there a tub model any of you could recommend that has a set of jets in the wall specifically for "stand up" therapy of hips and legs? Are ozonators really safe? I have been trying to get a straight answer on whether the ozone is hazardous to human skin, very interested in this answer as my hide has already accumulated more than enough damage from lifelong UV exposure - must avoid any extra damage...
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Where I live on the East coast, I seem only to find one major company selling portable spas, Hot Springs. The local rep seemed nice, not sure he gave me all the correct info (said frame was pressure treated wood). Found one other local store carrying Hibiscus (think parent company is called Alps Spas). The second company's products looks just as nice, but about a third cheaper. Can't find out much about other spa manufacturers in my area, and the only thing about Hibiscus I could find is from their company's website. Seems like Consumer's reports hasn't yet reviewed portable spas. Just looking for some direction how to buy about a 84"x84" spa. I don't want to just buy a Hot Springs because that's what everyone else has.. I like to be an informed consumer looking at the ratings of different companies and models.. We'll be first time owners. Love using them, now want one for ourselves. I'd love especially hearing from anyone owning a Hibiscus spa, Thanks in advance!
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My 13 year old Coast Spa blew it's pumps last winter and we are looking to replace it with something more efficient. I'm 6' tall and my hubby is 6'9", so size does matter and we we're looking to get a 6/7 person spa (the Coast Spa was 92" x 92" x 39"). We'd like open seating with different jet options in each seat (including foot jets), but a lounge, lights and stereo are not important to us. So far, we've looked at the D1 Meridian which we liked because of its opening seating and large footwell, but with no option to wet test the Meridian, we tested the Latitude and weren't impressed at all. That takes D1 off the list. Still in the running is the Hot Springs Pulse (scheduled to wet test later this week, quoted cost $8,600), the Cladera Niagara (also hoping to wet test this week, quoted cost $9,900), and maybe the Sundance Optima (I just found this one mentioned in a few other posts and decided to look into it, but I have no idea of cost). We've tried and liked the Hot Spring Grandee, but it is a bit larger than we wanted, it lacked foot jets, I found myself floating all over the place, and with its $10,500 price tag, it is more than we were looking to spend. Given these parameters, any other ideas on quality spas we should check out? Another question, I know that Watkins owns both Hot Springs and Caldera, but is one superior to the other? The Hot Springs rep said that the mid-tier Pulse is superior to the top-tier Caldera Niagara. This sounds fishy to me. Anyone have thoughts on this? These two tubs are very similar in look (and even the rep said they were similar), though I found the Pulse's seating to be a bit more open which I lean towards. Also, the dealers don't seem willing to negotiate price. How do their prices seem to you educated masses? Any ideas on how to negotiate? As far as dealers, I think the Caldera and Hot Springs are similar (though the Caldera dealer says it doesn't charge a trip fee while the spa is under warranty while the Hot Springs dealer charges $50 after the first year). The Sundance is only available at a big box outdoor retailer (Great Escape), so I'm not sure how good service would be after the sale (which is a valid point of concern). As I said, we haven't made a trip to check out the Sundance tubs yet, but will if given some recommendations. Looking forward to your responses. PS: We did check out the Marquis too, but didn't see one in the showroom that we liked dry, the dealer seemed suspect and the prices thrown around were $10K plus. PPS: We live in the NW burbs of Chicago.
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We are newbies with hot tubs and have a new Hot Springs Grandee. Have had it for 3 months. The green "logo" light recurs on blinking errors. We have cleaned the filters (which were pristine). We check the diagnostics screen and it will first show as in the yellow. Then we turn off the tub, wait, and turn back on. Then the same screen shows all in the green. A few hours later, we have to do it all over again. Manual chemical test strips show everything where it should be. Any suggestions as to what the issue is?
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Hi All, looking for some more help on spa repair. Thanks to this forum I got my tub working! It's awesome, and I love that all the parts are available online. My problem is that my control head works just fine, but the LCD display went bad. This is not ideal as I can't see the set temperature or any other read outs. The replacement control head is $263, but I'm hoping there is a way to just replace the LCD. Anyone done that before or know how? Seems like a waste to replace an entire control head (the front controls, not the whole iq2000 boad that is inside) when the LCD probably only costs $40 or less. Thanks
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I have a 2004 Hot Springs Sovereign 240v that has been working like a charm. I went out to use the tub and the heater and jets do not work. The circulation pump is running and lights work. The indicator lights on the control board are green (LNE) and Red (heat) and nothing lit for third. When I activate the pump, the light comes on (red) on the board and the indicator on the dispaly says "jets" but pump does not kick on. Heater is only a year old. Any suggestions on what it would be. My real dilemma is the temp is going to drop well below zero for the next week or so, of course!! Any suggestions? I did see a post similar to my issue a while back, it sounded like a wiring problem. Thanks, Mike
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HI:) This is my first post here, I have search this site for answers to my problem, so I am hoping someone may help me decide what to do. In November 2012 I bought a new Hot Springs Aria Spa from our local Dealer, with in a month of purchase, I was having problems with the Blue power light going out completely and not coming back on for several hours, this results in no Heat and a flashing red light on the circuit board, nothing in the manual on this error so I called Dealer to explain problem, Their answer was shut off power to reset unit and clean filters, well the tub is 30 days old dirty filters already I think NOT! So anyway I chemically cleaned them and tested the water (well water) test came back good. Still having the same problem today. I have called Hot Springs 1-800 number many times and talked with several people about this and just last month we ran the serial # and found their was a software issue with the spas circuit board that is causing the blue light function. Hot Springs customer service contact local dealer for service, I have yet to receive a call from dealer for service on this issue, I am VERY DISAPPOINTED in dealer the only time they showed up it was unannounced, jumped over my deck railing, lifted the cover and left all in minutes, fixed NOTHING, very unprofessional!! In my opinion,.. the dealer is pissed that I called Hot Spring directly on this issue, I tried to explain the problem to dealer and I stated its not the filters it IS something else. I am pasted the point of saying "see I told you so, I was right" I just want it fixed, I spent 10 grand for this spa and it has been a very unpleasing experience! If this does not get resolved I think I should get my money back and they can just pick it up. In no way do I fault Hot Springs corporate in this matter other than they need to light a fire under this local dealer's ASS. I have gave up on talking to this dealer directly, and would be happy if some other dealer came to service the unit, I would be happy to pay the minimal service charge. Thank You
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Hey guys, I have a tough situation one that I need some help with. I bought a Hot Spring Envoy a few months back and the previous owner did clean and rotate the filters as often as he should have. The plastic at the top and bottom of the filter started to brake down and it got into the hottub and developed a layer at the surface level of the hot tub. I tried to get it off, but if I get a magic eraser I have to scrub it for about a minute to just get a little bit of it off. It would take forever to clean the entire hot tub like this. It's a very thing (but hard) residue to get off. I can actually scrap it off with my finger nail if I work hard at it. (I've attached a picture of part of my shell so you can see it.) I was wondering if anyone had any ideas of a product (hopefully something I can pick up a Home Depot or the grocery store) I can use to spray on the shell to help brake this stuff down so that I can clean it off the shell. I really want to get this stuff off my hot tub. Thanks for your help!
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I'm looking for help with my 2002 Hot Springs Sovereign. The power light is flashing red. I know this has been discussed a few times here, but I was hoping to get more specifics. My circ pump was replaced by a tech about 1 1/2 years back. So, this is what I've done so far. 1- removed the filters and reset the breaker (a few times). Plus, tapped on the circ pump. 2- removed the circ pump, opened it to look for debris and visible damage. It was fine. 3- put a voltage meter on the circ pump cable, it was fine. When I turn on the power at the breaker, the spa tries to kick on. It makes a hiss and a clicking noise a few times and I can see water trying to flow out(?) of the heater(?), but its kind of just sloshing around. After anywhere from 20 to 60 seconds, it stops trying to come on and the light starts flashing. The temp is at 98. Should I snake out the line from the heater into the tub (something I've read in other posts). Or does any of this indicate that I do (or do not) need to replace the thermistors? Any help is appreciated, thank!