RDspaguy

Remove the filters and see what happens.

What do you mean by not working? No pressure, not spinning, can't adjust?

Another one I have never heard of. Who knew this forum would be so interesting? Canadaguy is on the right track. If you have the time, letting it leak and seeing where it stops may lead you to the problem. It also may not. I can't believe he has heard of those. How far does your water level drop in a day? Does it have an equipment area you can access? Most leaks occur in or around the equipment, so look around. If you could post a few pics of the equipment area and spa it might help.

Not much to it. Changing the cord can be a PITA, so get the right one for your spa.

I already did. RDspaguy aqua-electro-mechanical engineering. I think it has a ring to it!

What brand, Sundance or Jacuzzi Premium? If you have a good electrical meter you can do an ohm reading on both sensors. They should be very close to the same. I always replace them as a pair, though the temp sensor in the filter well is more prone to failure. Be careful when replacing that you plug them back in the harness in the right location.

The hot tub itself, there is no telling. Back in the day, hot tub manufacturers ordered their shells from one of a very few fiberglass/ acrylic manufacturers. Everyone's tubs looked the same. Could be a PDC (Plastics Development Corporation, or Piece of Darn Crap as we used to call them), or maybe a Morgan. The control is a Hydroquip. It is an aftermarket control system, not the original controls. Original controls for that spa were not digital, but had a dial thermostat and air diaphragm buttons to operate the equipment. This is your manual: http://hydroquip.com/Owners Manuals/SOLID STATE/4200-6200-ECO2/Operation Manual.pdf

Sounds like your circulation pump is out.

My advice, don't ever call them again. Whoever told you that is a moron. Glad you are moving forward, keep us posted.

Post a pic of the board, wires and all.

Given the burned heater terminal, which probably means bad heater, and this other as yet unknown problem, I think a new pack is a good choice. I can't find that board to see what you've got. It is 120v, one 2 speed pump, no circulation pump, 3 kw heater?

Pumps do have a thermal cut off, but it is a very high temperature. Boards also have thermal protection, usually in the form of a fuse in my experience, but can have electronics issues long before that fuse blows. Also, transformers do not function properly when overly hot. I think your description sounds like a power issue. It could be the transformer getting hot, or the equipment in general. I suspect you have a failing breaker that is getting hot enough in the box to trip the one next to it, and cause power interruptions, possibly even dropping a leg. Both are easy enough to diagnose. For equipment bay, just remove the side panel and see if things clear up. For breaker, touch breakers when it is acting up. They should never be hot, or even warmer than the box they are in, to the touch.

Best of luck. Be safe over there.

Your spa has freeze protection. If the water in the heater drops below 45*f the pumps will turn on and the display will show "ICE". This doesn't help if your breaker trips. In Tahoe it was standard practice to run an additional 20a circuit to the spa and plug in a thermostat controlled space heater under the cabinet. Then if your breaker trips your space heater keeps it from freezing.

Could be. I would try the breakers first. What you describe sounds like the other breaker might have issues as well. It could be a transformer issue, which is on the board. But, as someone else said, breakers get old. So do fuses. Usually when a fuse goes, it goes. But I have seen a few times where they did some strange things. It is unlikely, but a small investment compared to the board.

Switzerland sounds nice. I live in Missouri, in the midwest, tornado alley. I spent a few years in Tahoe, in the Sierra Nevada range of California, and a few in Boulder Colorado. Love the mountains! Hate the cold! And being unable to find the customers spa in the snow, because it was deeper than the spa, or the tech, is tall. Don't miss that. But I do miss the mountain views.

Ouch! From the look of things, the pump you were looking at will do the trick. You may have to cut and splice the plug or change the cord, but it should manage. Flow rate claims to be the same as the iron might, but at 2/3 the amp draw I am sceptical.

And a good opinion it is. Unless chinese parts are easy to come by wherever you are in Europe, the Iron might is a good option. Masters used them, or one just like it, in other spas. They do have approximately 2.5 times the amp draw as the laing, but the board should be fine. They also have a shaft seal which will wear out and leak, fairly frequently because it runs all the time. This is why they used laing pumps. But that is a simple job if you catch it right away. Let it leak for a few months, and it becomes a disposable just like the laing. Bad balance will speed this up, so keep your alkalinity around 100ppm and your ph near 7.4-7.6. Do not keep a high sanitizer residual, 1-2ppm is sufficient for most private spas, unless everyone in town hangs out in your hot-tub. Where are you located, if you don't mind me asking?

I thought it would still turn on for heat and filtration. It's been a few years since I have seen a Sundance, so maybe I am thinking of a different brand. Was there any sign of water on the board? Does your spa have 2 controls? IIRC, the auxiliary panel plugs in to a pigtail coming off the main panel plug. Does your main control have any cracks in the surface, especially the buttons, or a foggy spot in the display? It is probably one of your control panels. I stress probably. That is an expensive part for a maybe. If there are any of the telltale signs above I would be more confident, but not being there, I can only go off of the info you give me.

Masters spas had a whole bunch of different circulation pumps over the years. Can you post a picture of yours?

On closer inspection, the relays on this board do not have access so we can't bypass the heater terminal. You likely have a bad heater as well. And an as yet unresolved control issue. I'd say, get the pack if it's an option. On the top left of the board is a white sticker with a serial number, I can't read it. What is that number?

Yep. If I wanted to spend hours of my time trying to find out what is going on with your inflatable spa, I can find a hundred videos that do not show me what I need to see to help you. Or, I can have a reasonable expectation that you came here looking for help because you want to fix it and are willing to put in the effort to do so. I can only do so much from here. If there is no access to the pump, and whatever else they have in there, there is no fixing it.

"Thermal friction technology' is marketing-ese for "doesn't have a heater". Every spa, pool, bathtub, sink, and garden hose uses "thermal friction technology". You can get spa packs for under $400. If you or your husband can do the install it is not a huge investment. It will probably cost more to get it wired 240v. Even at 120v, it still has an actual heater so will heat much faster, but will still lose temp when jets are on high. If it has air control valves it will help to close them. As for insulation, I am not a fan of fiber fill insulation. I usually get 1" foam board and cut to fit between frame boards under side panels. They must recess between the frame, just screwing them on will leave gaps in your side panels. You can do this in the equipment area as well, just be sure not to cover any vents.

It is better you did it the way you did, at least in this case. You will probably be fine. Jacuzzi Premium spas use a flow switch for heater control, so it is unlikely the heater fried. The pumps are better off that you did not use the drain, there is still some water in there so your seals are probably ok. The circulation pump is your big worry, as it may have locked the impeller and damaged the motor, but it may not. Only way to tell is to fill it up and turn it on. Make sure you fill through the filter pipe.

What brand? You used a sump pump only not the drain fitting?