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Jersey Hot Tub Repair

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    New Jersey
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    Hot Tub Repair & Scuba Diving

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Spa Guru

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  1. I'm not a big fan of the LX pumps. Several major manufacturers have changed to various LX models because they are cheaper than the North American made pumps. I have been replacing them in spas that are less than 6 months old. The ceramic seals on the motor shafts seem to have a fairly high failure rate. I guess if the cost is 50% less and the failure rate is 10% higher, it's worth it for a manufacturer to use cheap parts. I spoke with several techs at the Atlantic City Pool & Spa show this past January and most are reporting similar observations,
  2. You say you have mineral deposits around the motor shaft. Turn the jets on to see if water is spitting out of the wet end. If it is, it is possibly getting sucked into the motor and shorting it out. I've seen pumps fail when only 2 years old. It's not that common, but could happen. If the motor is two years old, you could probably get a new wet end to replace the leaking seal. A wet end is under $100, and not too difficult to replace if you have the right tools. Dave
  3. I'd be curious to learn how the grundfos works for you. I've been hesitant about changing to them because they have 1" barbs and I'm not a fan of adapters to bring it down to 3/4". They are certainly cheaper, but I can't believe the quality could be any worse than Laing. Dave
  4. I've never encountered a hum from the control center, which I assume you mean to be the box that the circuit board is mounted in. A humming from a motor that is seized is very common. Most often, a Balboa 500 type spa pack is used in a situation where pump #1 supplies water to the heater, it doesn't have a separate circulation pump. Do you have a separate circulation pump? Dave
  5. " Meter testing to the heater had normal results, " What Does that mean? What is the electrical service to the spa? How many volts across the two heater leads on the circuit board? How many volts on each individual lead to ground? For a 240V spa, you should get 240 Volts between the two heater leads. If you get 0 volts, and the heating indicator is ON, it probably means the circuit board is bad. For whatever reason, one of the heater relays isn't closing. Dave
  6. On a hotsprings, a blinking green light is usually an overheat error. When the error occurs, is the heater hot to the touch? You may even hear water boiling inside the heater when that occurs. If so, I'd look for some sort of flow error. You may have enough flow to activate the pressure or flow switch, but you may not be moving water fast enough through the heater to prevent overheating. Remove the filters and see if the problem still occurs. If the issue goes away, your filters are dirty, which is the cause of many overheat errors. Also, do you have water moving through the heater? An air bubble can easily get caught in the tubing and restrict water. When you replaced the circ pump, did you connect it properly? If the tub continues to report overheating and the heater is not hot to the touch, it indicates an electronic problem. Are you sure you didn't swap the circuit board connections for the hi limit and the temp sensors? Dave
  7. A couple of suggestions: Do you have an ozonator? If so, disconnect it from the pack. It may have water in it, but only trips the breaker when the pack turns it on. I've seen that many times. If that doesn't help, try running the spa with one of the jet pumps disconnected from the pack. There could be a leak on the shaft seal, and after a variable amount of time operating, that leaks sprays water into the motor and shorts the tub. After a few minutes (or hours), that water dries up and the tub runs fine until the next time the pump turns on and sprays water. The reason it would seem intermittent is because the jet pumps turn on once or twice a day to run for a minute, just to keep fresh water in the plumbing. I've seen this happen plenty of times too. Dave
  8. The click is the Relay closing to send power to the jet motor. The hum is the motor trying to start up, but because the motor is seized the shaft won't turn. I don't know what "trip the jets" means, but a Balboa VS500 will quit trying after a few seconds if the motor won't start. Dave
  9. I had a problem twice with a Dimension One spa, once about 3 years ago, and then again two weeks ago. The circ pump would constantly turn on and off and giving a flow error. In my case, it wasn't heating, however, a bad flow switch will cause a Dimension One with an MSPA pack to cycle on and off. To test that, just short the flow switch closed, after the power is applied to the tub. Dave
  10. As Cusser said, don't mount it directly over the tub, where mount failure could lead to electrocution.
  11. I would never mount a TV onto a hot tub. Two reasons: If you physically attach it to the hot tub, you will be drilling holes into the tub, and ASSUMING you can find the frame to get a good mount, anytime you need to have the hot tub serviced you will have to remove the TV. Everytime you remove and replace the screws the connection will get weaker. The more important reasons not to mount the tv onto the tub ( or even NEAR the tub) is what if it falls into the tub while your family is in there? While that's not supposed to happen, every year people are electrocuted in hot tubs and swim pools because of bending the rules of electrical safety; someone gets killed because of something that's not supposed to happen. I would guess that your town's electrical inspector would write you up for having the TV anywhere near the tub. I checked out the cosmos outdoor tv mounts like you suggested and they look very sturdy. Five years from now, the screws you used to mount it into the tub have rusted, an unusually strong blast of wind blows through, and it's goodby Jawncarlo & family. Dave
  12. Is the temperature correct? Are the pumps turning on themselves when you turn the hot tub on? Is the tub filtering? First thing to check is to see if transformer is providing low voltage to circuit board. Typically you'd expect to find between 12-14V on the secondary wiring. USUALLY the primary wiring, which would be 220V, will be red and white or red and black. Secondary wiring will typically be yellow or blue. A wiring diagram or a label/sticker on the transformer itself would verifty that. There's probably a glass fuse somewhere on your circuit board that protects the circuit board from over-voltage. Check to see if it is blown.That will prevent the topside control panel from working. Is the topside old? Do the buttons make contact when you press them? Or are the mushy or have they been problematic in the past? Moisture gets in there and will eventually cause it to malfunction. I would also check the wire between the topside control panel and the spa pack. Frequently they are gnawed on by rodents, which might create the problem you're seeing. What kind of spa pack does your hot tub have? Most of the Arctic spas I've worked on have geckko packs. A few photos, model numbers or part numbers would help. If it's a balboa pack, you can disconnect the topside and the tub should default to 80 degrees. Dave
  13. Is the hot tub maintaining the set temperature? IOW, is it heating? Do you have blinking dots under the temperature on the display? First thing to try for any hot tub problem is reboot. Power it off, wait 30 seconds, power it on, and let us know what the display says. Dave
  14. Can you turn the valve when the pump is turned off? Adjusting the diverter valves with your pumps running is a sure fire way to destroy the valve guts. There's just way too much pressure in the hoses there for the plastic knob to turn. Dave
  15. Did I read it right that the problem occurs when both pumps are on? If you disconnect pump 2, will pump 1 run normally? If that's the case, it may be that your breaker is getting old and can't handle the amperage. Is the breaker warm to the touch? If that's not the case, try swapping the circuit board connections for pumps 1 and 2 and see if the problem occurs on pump 2 instead of pump 1. Dave
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