CanadianSpaTech

Warm up the soft plumbing with a heat gun and try and remove the soft plumbing from the rigid Tee and re glue it back in place... or I might cut the soft plumbing about an inch back and then cut/slice the soft plumbing back to the rigid Tee and get a pair of needle nose plyers and twist it out then re glue it. https://www.poolandhottubdepot.com/white-pvc-tee-3-4-slip-x-3-4-slip-x-3-4-slip/ Then reduce to 3/8... (ridiculous price) https://www.diypartcenter.com/products/sundance-spa-3-4-inch-to-3-8-inch-barbed-adapter-sun6540-063

page 150 here... https://www.guillens.com/images/JAC/Pdf/JPS/2014-1 Parts Catalog.pdf

@Daniel wagg Please start your own post if you want replies.

Place a small thermostatically controlled ceramic heater inside cabinet and your good. You have 3-4 days before any worry about water temp dropping enough to freeze without one. If you drain it it will freeze quicker.

GFCI Wired wrong would be my guess

I get it.... but IMO right now with the spa you have it's a square peg in a round hole kinda deal. There are systems available to do what you want (see below) and it can be done. Can it be done with your current system and set up... https://geckoportal.com/ingrid https://issuu.com/geckomkt/docs/ingrid_techbook_en?e=14165552/54355200

Let see...7 figures... 🤣 1,000,000.00 JAPANESE YEN =9,089.09 UNITED STATES DOLLAR

LPI CSR...could you imagine that job...lol Could be from Wangdong Province in China 🤣 I posted CMP in the other thread that has the exact same face design. It is likely an older CMP product as I don't see that screw in system on their website... https://www.c-m-p.com/spa-products/spa-jets/

Odd that you have the wiring for 240V. Is the breaker a GFCI? If it is staying 120V white wire from pump needs to be on P7 Jumper 1 needs to cover the 2 pins to the right and the first pin or the pin on the left is open. It would be best to have the spa run 240V. It will work better and run more efficient costing less $$$ Post photo of the GFCI breaker you have it hooked up to

@AlaskaTubber Ok now explain how you have it wired? I see it hooked up for 120V but you have wiring for 240V coming from the house. Will the spa be 120V or 240V? The white and red jumper wires don't look like they are all the way in...please verify Next follow the white wire coming from the pump...where does it go P7 or P18... P7 is for 120V P 18 is for 240V Please verify that Jumper 1 is covering the 2 pins to the right for low current mode if you are staying 120V... see schematic top right. Let us know results

PA cold sure....I live in Canada and really your spa is well built and well insulated and designed to be efficient in cold climates. What is causing you to be so concerned? Have you received over the top hydro bills?

Have a look here: https://www.guillens.com/images/JAC/Pdf/JPS/2014-1 Parts Catalog.pdf

http://spapartsdepot.com/gecko-board-with-cable-kit-mspa-mp-bf4-0201-300031/ Verify with seller that this matches your topside and that they have in stock before ordering if you buy new. Still think something is off with the sensors... did you also replace the hi limit sensor when you replaced the regulation/temp probe?

What year is the spa. https://www.hottuboutpost.com/jacuzzi-spa-power-pro-rx-jet-with-stainless-steel-escutcheon-20093-001/ Jet has been discontinued by the manufacturer and is no longer available. See JAC6541-288 which will work in place of this item - depending on your spa model/year. Jacuzzi® Spa Power Pro RX Jet With Stainless Steel Escutcheon, Includes O-ring, Washer and Nut. Factory original Jacuzzi® part, no imitations here. 3 1/2 inch jet face. 3.9 inches long. Used in pre-2013 models.

There are other things you can do for efficiency... Use a cover cap. Keeps cold air from blowing through the cover and will also keep the heat in better. the https://www.canadahottubparts.ca/hot-tub-cover-cap/ Thermal blanket on top of the water: https://www.thecoverguy.com/en-ca/products/spas-and-accessories/caps-and-blankets/deluxe-foam-thermal-blanket-8x8/ Both are a bit of a PIA though. Check your owners manual for Economy or Summer Time modes. I keep mine at set temp 104. Might turn down to 95 if I know I won't use it for a few days.

Circulation pumps only have 1 speed. Does the spa have a circulation pump or does it run main pump on low for heating and filtering? Post photos of the entire spa pack so we can see the connections and also of the topside control. Remove the filter until the issue is fixed. Remove them from the equation. Just make sure nothing large can go down the hole. Make sure the IN.Flow connection is good. They can be difficult to insert and you have to make sure its a good connection. IN.XE Manual here: https://www.geckodepot.com/fichiers/documentsProduits/GDA/en/Techbook_in_xe_EN.pdf You may have to access the low level programming and make sure it is set up correctly. Where the circulation pump flow comes out in the spa is there flow/pressure?

What is the issue you are having with this pack?

agreed

Well good luck and we will try and help where we can. Please document your journey and post it here and possibly help the next guy.

Ok so a Gecko Sclass that's a good thing. To recap you have no high speed...just humms and clicks off. It will run in low but not heat and does not throw any error codes. Next you will need to post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover of the spa pack. Need to see a few photos of the circuit board so we can see if there is any damage to the relays or the board itself. Do you have and can you work a multi meter? FYI swapping out the pack might not be as bad as you think if it is a straight swap...but were not there yet IMO

I don't see a lot if savings here. That spa should run no more than $450/$500 a year on electric and a large portion of that you will need to spend anyway for filtering and running the pumps when in use. Heating cost is a part but not ALL your monthly cost. You will be 6/7/8 years before you see any savings and by that time the $2000 Raypack will need replacement and you start all over...but you might get lucky. Like @RDspaguymentioned flow rate and tapping into 3/4 " low flow plumbing might cause issue. You are going to need to do a lot of research to make it work. I could see interest in a gas set up if you had a swim spa. Will this be just for the hot tub or is it going to feed/heat a pool as well?.... then maybe the cost is justified

Photos not available

Sundance is my vote. Not a fan of Maax Spas (Vita)

Post photos of the current spa pack and also of the Gecko Sclass pack and their schematic drawings on the inside covers. Also post photos of the topside control. This year Hotspot can be difficult to repair. The topside is no longer made and to replace a topside you have to replace the pack as well. If the current pack is the same as the Sclass they left it sounds like they may have made this switch already. When I get these Hotspots I usually swap it out with an Sclass pack so that's good news if you already have one. Diagnosing the original Hot spot pack and a Gecko Sclass pack will be a little different so we need to see what you have. Do you see any error codes on the topside? 3 little dots flashing before it goes to FLO? Leave filters out until issue is fixed. Remove them from the equation. Just make sure nothing can go down in there. Lets see what you have in there now and we can move forward from there.

Persistent memory reset.